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V 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


THE  MACMILLAN  COMPANY 

NEW  YORK  •  BOSTON  •   CHICAGO   •  DALLAS 
ATLANTA   •   SAN  FRANCISCO 

MACMILLAN  &  CO.,  LIMITED 

LONDON   •  BOMBAY   •  CALCUTTA 
MELBOURNE 

THE  MACMILLAN  CO.  OF  CANADA,  LTD. 

TORONTO 


AROUND  THE  YEAR 
IN  THE  GARDEN 


A  SEASONABLE  GUIDE  AND  REMINDER  FOR 

WORK  WITH  VEGETABLES,  FRUITS,  AND 

FLOWERS,    AND    UNDER    GLASS 


BY 

FREDERICK  FRYE  ROCKWELL 

AUTHOR  or  "HOME  VEGETABLE  GARDENING,"  "GARDENING 

INDOORS  AND  UNDER  GLASS,"  "  THE  KEY  TO 


ILLUSTRATED  WITH  PHOTOGRAPHS  BY  THE  AUTHOR  AND 
E.  R.  ROLLINS 


THE  MACMILLAN  COMPANY 
1917 

All  rights  reserved 


COPYRIGHT,  1913,  1914  and  1915 

BY  THE  CURTIS  PUBLISHING  CO. 

DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE  &  CO. 

McBRIDE,  NAST  &  CO. 

COPYRIGHT,  1917 

BY  THE  MACMILLAN  COMPANY 
Set  up  and  electrotyped.    Published  September,  1917. 


SB  #53 


Fraternally 
DEDICATED 

TO  THAT  GOOD  FELLOWSHIP  OF  GARDENERS 

WHO,  TILLING  THEIR  OWN  SMALL  PLOTS, 
INCREASE  THE  EARTH'S  BOUNTY  AND  BEAUTY. 


370002 


INVITATION 

In  golden  April  weather, 

In  sun  and  wind  and  rain, 
Let  us  fare  forth  and  follow 
Beneath  the  spring's  first  swallow 
By  budding  break  and  heather 

To  the  good  brown  soil  again! 

With  rake  and  seeds  and  sower, 

And  hoe  and  line  and  reel, 
When  the  meadows  shrill  with  "peeping" 
And  the  old  world  wakes  from  sleeping, 
Who  wouldn't  be  a  grower 

That  has  any  heart  to  feel? 

Delve  in!   The  year's  before  us; 

Spring's  promise  fills  the  air. 
Descendants  of  Antaeus, 
The  brown  earth's  touch  can  free  us, 
Renew  us  and  restore  us, 

From  the  hand  o'  carking  care. 

Work,  through  the  summer  golden, 
And  through  the  autumn's  glow, 

Till  the  months  lay  down  their  burden 

In  the  full  garden's  guerdon, 

And  earth,  once  more  enfolden, 
Sleeps  warm  beneath  the  snow. 

And  for  our  work — though  showers 
And  autumn  frosts  destroy — 

Our  greatest  pay's  not  measured 

In  fruit  and  flower  we've  treasured, 

But  hi  the  golden  hours 
That  brought  us  health  and  joy! 


vii 


FOREWORD 

This  book  is  designed  for  the  busy  man  or  woman  whose 
spare  time  available  for  gardening  is  limited,  and  who,  con- 
sequently, is  interested  in  utilizing  every  hour  to  the  best 
purpose.  Seasonable  and  definite  directions  are  given  for 
the  various  tasks  encountered  in  caring  for  the  garden  and 
grounds  on  the  moderate  sized  place,  where  the  services 
of  a  professional  gardener  are  lacking.  On  the  other  hand, 
piece-meal  and  didactic  directions,  and  "calendar  garden- 
ing," have  been  avoided.  The  dates  mentioned  in  con- 
nection with  the  chapters  are  for  the  convenience  of  the 
reader,  as  indicating  when  the  work  described  should  be 
given  attention,  or  can  be  done  to  the  greatest  advantage,— 
in  most  instances  well  in  advance  of  the  time  for  actually 
doing  the  work,  so  that  plans  may  be  made,  varieties 
selected,  materials  obtained,  and  annoying  delays  avoided. 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

January:       FIRST  WEEK i 

Make  Your  Plans  Now  for  Spring  and  Summer  Work. 

"  SECOND  WEEK 6 

An  Equipment  of  Tools  for  this  Summer's  Success. 

"  THIRD  WEEK 13 

Up-to-date  Tools.  Suggestions  about  their  Selection, 
Use  and  Care. 

"  FOURTH  WEEK 21 

Vegetable  Seeds  to  Order  for  the  Summer  Season. 

February:     FIRST  WEEK 29 

Make  a  Plan  now — and  Follow  it  this  Summer. 

"  SECOND  WEEK 36 

Starting  Seeds  in  Greenhouse  or  Hot-Bed. 

"  THIRD  WEEK 45 

Plans  for  this  Year's  Flower  Garden. 

"  FOURTH  WEEK 49 

Making  the  Soil  Rich;  Manures;  Fertilizers  and  Humus. 

March:         FIRST  WEEK 55 

Bush  and  Tree  Fruits  for  the  Small  Place;  Quantities 
Needed;  Good  Varieties. 

"  SECOND  WEEK 62 

Growing  Strong  Plants  for  Vegetable  and  Flower  Gardens. 

"  THIRD  WEEK 69 

The  First  Planting  and  Seeding  in  the  Open  Garden. 

"  FOURTH  WEEK 75 

First  Planting  of  Flowers  Out-doors;  Pruning  Roses; 
Work  with  the  Hardy  Border;  Getting  a  Start  with 
Annuals. 

April:  FIRST  WEEK 82 

Pointers  on  Planting;  Protection  from  Late  Frosts;  Labels 
and  Markers;  Care  of  Tools. 
xi 


xii  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

April:  SECOND  WEEK 88 

Making  New  Perennial  Gardens  and  Borders;  New  Straw- 
berry and  Asparagus  Beds. 

"  THIRD  WEEK 93 

Putting  the  Home  Grounds  into  Shape;  Making  Walks, 
Roads,  Curves,  and  Grades;  First  Work  with  the  Lawn; 
Propagating  Cane  and  Bush  Fruits. 

"  FOURTH  WEEK 102 

Keeping  up  with  Garden  Schedule;  Hardening  off  Plants; 
Tender  Plants  in  Paper  Pots. 

"  FIFTH  WEEK 108 

Spring  and  Summer  Spraying  for  Fruit;  Starting  the  Vine 
Crops  Right. 

May:  FIRST  WEEK 116 

Care  of  Asparagus,  Rhubarb,  Sea  Kale;  the  Cane  Fruits; 
Grapes;  the  New  Strawberry  Bed;  Fall  Fruiting  Straw- 
berries. 

"  SECOND  WEEK 123 

Flowers  for  this  Summer's  Bloom;  Planting  Roses;  Baby 
Ramblers;  Dahlias;  Asters. 

"  THIRD  WEEK 130 

Fertilizing,  Weeding  and  Thinning  in  the  Vegetable  Gar- 
den; Points  on  Picking. 

"  FOURTH  WEEK 135 

Controlling  Insects  and  Diseases  in  Flower  and  Vegetable 
Garden;  Sprays  and  Sprayers  and  their  Use. 

June:  FIRST  WEEK 141 

Vegetables  for  Fall  and  Winter;  Succession  Crops. 

"  SECOND  WEEK 148 

Fighting  Dry  Weather;  Mulching;  Watering;  Modern 
Irrigation. 

"  THIRD  WEEK 153 

Summer  Work  in  the  Rose  Garden;  Insects;  Diseases; 
Summer  Pruning;  Keeping  Cut  Flowers  Fresh. 

"  FOURTH  WEEK iS9 

Celery  for  Fall  and  Winter;  Buying  Plants;  Transplanting; 
Culture;  Early  Blanching. 


CONTENTS  xiii 

PAGE 

July:  FIRST  WEEK 165 

Midsummer  Work  in  the  Vegetable  Garden:  Saving  the 
Soil  Moisture;  Egg-Plants  and  Peppers;  the  Vine  Crops, 
Transplanting  in  Dry  Weather;  Late  Planting. 

"  SECOND  WEEK 172 

Starting  Perennials  and  Biennials  from  Seed  for  Next 
Year's  Gardens. 

"  THIRD  WEEK 177 

Summer  Work  with  Strawberries:  Care  of  the  Spring 
Planted  Bed;  Remaking  the  Old  Bed;  Potted  Plants; 
Starting  the  New  Bed;  Fall  Bearing  Strawberries. 

"  FOURTH  WEEK 183 

Linking  the  Garden  to  the  House;  Summer  Houses;  Per- 
golas; Trellises;  Vines  to  Cover  them. 

"  FIFTH  WEEK 189 

Crops  that  Make  the  Garden  Rich:  "Green  Manuring;" 
Soil  "Binders"  for  Winter  Cover;  Inoculating  to  In- 
sure Success. 

August:        FIRST  WEEK 194 

Getting  House  Plants  Ready  for  Winter  Bloom:  New 
Plants  from  Seeds  and  Cuttings;  Summer  Care  of  Potted 
Plants;  Plants  from  the  Garden  for  Winter  Flowering; 
Making  New  Rubber  Plants. 

"  SECOND  WEEK 200 

Making  a  New  Lawn;  Remaking  an  Old  One;  Peonies  to 
Plant  Now. 

"  THIRD  WEEK 207 

Evergreens  and  Shrubs  for  Fall  Planting:  Planning  an 
Artistic  Planting;  Varieties  for  Special  Purposes. 

FOURTH  WEEK 212 

Planning  and  Building  a  Small  Greenhouse:  Materials; 
Construction;  Heating. 

September:  FIRST  WEEK 221 

Late  Work  in  the  Vegetable  Garden:  Last  Plantings; 
Getting  Ready  for  the  First  Frosts;  Preparing  for 
Winter  Work  under  Glass. 


xiv  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

September:  SECOND  WEEK 226 

Fall  Bulbs:  Plan  now  to  Secure  a  Long  Season  of  Bloom 
Next  Spring;  Types  and  Varieties. 

THIRD  WEEK 235 

Fall  Planting  of  Shrubs  and  Other  Ornamentals:  When 

to  Plant;  Preparation  of  Soil;  Treatment  on  Receipt; 

Pruning. 

"  FOURTH  WEEK 240 

Perennials  for  Planting  and  Replanting  this  Fall:  Phlox, 
Iris,  Peonies. 

"  FIFTH  WEEK 248 

Bulbs  for  Winter  Bloom:  Narcissi,  Hyacinths,  and  Tulips 
for  Forcing;  Other  Flowering  Bulbs;  Cuttings  to  Root 
Now. 

October:       FIRST  WEEK 256 

Hot-Bed  and  Cold  Frame  Gardening:  Equipment;  Soil; 
Heating;  Varieties  of  Vegetables  for  Forcing. 

"  SECOND  WEEK 264 

Planting  Bulbs  for  Next  Year's  Bloom:  Propagating 
Roses. 

"  THIRD  WEEK 270 

Saving  the  Season's  Produce:  Harvesting  and  Storing 
Vegetables  and  Fruits. 

"  FOURTH  WEEK 276 

Fresh  Vegetables  all  Winter:  Plan  to  Keep  the  Small 
Greenhouse  Busy  with  Succession  Crops  until  Spring. 

"  FIFTH  WEEK 283 

Concrete:  What  you  can  do  with  it:  and  how  to  use  it. 
Iron  Pipe  for  Many  Purposes. 

November:  FIRST  WEEK 288 

Making  House  Plants  at  Home  for  the  Winter:  The  Condi- 
tions that  Favor  Healthy  Growth;  the  Problem  of 
Heating.  Materials  for  next  Spring. 

"  SECOND  WEEK 295 

Fruits  and  Vegetables  in  Storage;  Odds  and  Ends  of  Out- 
side Work;  Roots  for  Forcing;  "Buds"  for  Grafting; 
Making  Beds  and  Borders  for  Spring  Planting. 


CONTENTS  xv 

PAGE 

November:  THIRD  WEEK 302 

Putting  the  Garden  to  Sleep  for  the  Winter:  Protection  of 
Roses;  Shrubs;  Bulbs;  Perennials;  Small  Fruits.  Chrys- 
anthemums for  Stock  Plants;  Materials  for  Spring 
Work  Indoors. 

"  FOURTH  WEEK 309 

Work  for  the  Home  Tree  Doctor:  How  to  Repair  Old 
Wounds  and  Splits.  Fall  Trenching  and  Draining. 

December:  FIRST  WEEK 315 

The  Winter  Window  Garden:  Ventilation;  Moisture;  Soil; 
Care.  Propagating  Bushes  and  Shrubs. 

"  SECOND  WEEK 322 

The  Winter  Campaign  in  Orchard  and  Garden:  Winter 
Spraying;  Winter  Pruning  of  Fruit  Trees;  Cane  Fruits 
and  Shrubs. 

"  THIRD  WEEK 329 

The  Care  of  Gift  Plants  after  Christmas.  How  to  Keep 
Them  in  Good  Condition  and  Save  Them  for  Another 
Year.  Pick  out  Shrubs  for  Winter  Beauty  Now. 

*  FOURTH  WEEK 336 

Starting  Plants  for  Next  Summer's  Flower  Garden:  How 
to  Make  and  Root  Cuttings;  Potting  and  Care. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

FRONTISPIECE. — Every  Home  Should  Have  a  Garden!  Facing  page 

PLATE  i. — A  Warm  Frame  in  a  Cool  Greenhouse  for  Starting  Early 

Seeds.    Sowing  Seeds  in  a  Flat 40 

PLATE  2. — Sowing  Seeds  of  Different  Sizes  and  the  Depth  to  Cover 
Them.  Seedling  Plants  Ready  for  Transplanting.  Sub-watering 
of  Seedling  Plants  after  Transplanting 41 

PLATE  3. — An  Attractive  Arrangement  of  Quick  Growing,  Inexpensive 

Plants 66 

PLATE  4.— Plants  Ready  for  Repotting.  The  Proper  Method  of  Re- 
moving a  Plant  from  a  Pot  for  Examining  the  Roots  or  Re- 
potting    67 

PLATE  5. — Double  Plow  Attachment  for  Wheel  Hoe.  Setting  out  Let- 
tuce Plants 70 

PLATE  6. — Using  a  Board  for  Sowing  Seed  in  a  Small  Garden.  Firm- 
ing the  Seed  after  Sowing 71 

PLATE  7.— Plant  Forcers  and  Protectors 84 

PLATE  8. — Firming  the  Soil  about  a  Plant  after  Transplanting.  Pro- 
tection of  Transplanted  Plants  from  Sun  to  Prevent  Wilting ...  85 

PLATE  9. — A  Modern  Combination  Seed  Drill  and  Wheel  Hoe.  Melons 
Started  under  Glass  in  Paper  Pots  for  Setting  out  Later.  Pot 
Grown  Tomato  Plants.  Cabbage  and  Lettuce  Plants  Trimmed 
Ready  for  Transplanting 105 

PLATE  10. — A  Good  Type  of  Compressed  Air  Sprayer.  A  Supply  of 
Insecticides  and  Fungicides  such  as  Should  be  Kept  on  Hand 
for  the  Home  Garden 106 

PLATE  u.— The  Proper  Way  to  Thin  out  and  Cut  Back  Gooseberry 

and  Currant  Bushes 122 

PLATE  12.— White  Fly  on  Under  Side  of  Foliage  of  Fuschia.  A  Good 
Type  of  Compressed  Air  Sprayer  with  Shoulder  Strap  for  Use  in 
Small  Gardens 123 

PLATE  13.— Two  Types  of  Modern  Spray  Irrigation,  Suitable  for  Either 

Flower  or  Vegetable  Garden 150 

xvii 


xviii  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

Facing  page 
PLATE  14. — Nozzle  Line  Irrigation  for  the  Lawns  and  Grounds.   Valves 

and  Turning  Apparatus  for  the  Control  of  Irrigation 151 

PLATE  15. — Home  made  Summer  House  and  Home  made  Pergola 160 

PLATE  16. — Shaded  Frames  for  Starting  Plants  in  Summer.    Pansy 

Seedlings  Ready  for  Transplanting 161 

PLATE  17. — Making  Potted  Strawberry  Plants.     Strawberry  Runner 

Ready  for  Transplanting 180 

PLATE  18.— Flat  of  Celery  Plants  Ready  for  Transplanting.    Celery 

Plants  Trimmed  back  Ready  for  Planting 181 

PLATE  19. — Modem  Method  of  Blanching  Celery  with  Paper  Tubes. 

Banking  up  Celery  for  Later  Use 194 

PLATE  20. — Cutting  Back  and  Potting  a  Geranium  Plant  for  Winter 

Bloom 195 

PLATE  21.— Method  of  Sowing  Grass  Seed  to  Get  an  Even  Stand  for  a 
New  Lawn.  Chinese  or  Air  Layering  of  Rubber  Plant  to  get  a 
New  Shapely  Plant  from  an  Old  One 248 

PLATE  22. — Bulbs  Growing  in  Water.    Cross  Section  of  Pot  Showing 

Method  of  Growing  Bulbs  for  Forcing 249 

PLATE  23. — Cold  Frame  with  Double  Glazed  Sash  for  Winter  Crops. . .   260 

PLATE  24. — Crates  and  Barrels  for  Storing  Vegetables.     Beets  and 

Carrots  Packed  in  Moss  for  Winter  Storage 261 

PLATE  25. — Method  of  Storing  Cabbage  for  Winter.  Ripening  Toma- 
toes after  Frost 274 

PLATE  26. — Individual  Rose  Bush  and  Rose  Bed  Protected  for  the 

Whiter 275 

PLATE  27. — Progressive  Steps  in  Clearing  Out  and  Repairing  Old 

Wounds  in  an  Apple  Tree 310 

PLATE  28. — New  Trees  from  Old!  How  to  Cut  Back  and  Re-Form  an 

Old  Tree 324 

PLATE  29.— Later  Treatment  of  the  Same  Tree  Showing  the  Formation 

of  the  New  Head 325 

PLATE  30. — Geranium  Cuttings  Ready  for  Rooting.    Begonia  Cuttings 

Ready  to  Pot  Up  from  the  Cutting  Bed 336 

PLATE  31. — Geraniums  Cut  Back  Preparatory  to  Making  New  Growth 

for  Cuttings  in  the  Spring 337 


INTRODUCTION 

Timeliness,  which  is  of  importance  in  achieving  success 
in  almost  any  undertaking,  is  particularly  important  in 
garden  operations.  One  may  postpone  building  a  garage, 
or  buying  a  new  car,  for  a  week  or  a  month,  or  even  six 
months,  and  when  he  again  considers  the  matter  find 
conditions  the  same  as  they  were  before;  but  the  delay  of  a 
week  or  two  in  making  a  hot-bed,  planting  a  hardy  border, 
or  setting  out  evergreens,  may  mean  upsetting  a  garden 
plan  for  a  whole  season,  the  loss  of  a  year's  time  in  getting 
results,  or  the  waste  of  expensive  plants.  Conditions  of 
temperature  and  soil  are  constantly  changing,  and  unless 
one  can  keep  the  garden  work  caught  up,  or  a  little  ahead, 
the  routine  tasks  cannot  be  done  successfully  and  with  a 
minimum  of  labor,  nor  time  be  gained  for  those  extra  things 
which  make  it  possible  to  build  up  and  improve  the  place. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  gardener  who  imagines  that  his 
work  can  be  reduced  to  a  set  of  rules  and  formulae,  followed 
and  applied  according  to  special  days  marked  on  the  cal- 
endar, is  but  preparing  himself  for  a  double  disappointment. 
Few  things  are  so  certain  to  be  uncertain  as  the  seasons  and 
the  weather;  and  these,  rather  than  a  set  of  dates,  even  for 
a  single  locality,  form  the  signs  which  the  real  gardener  fol- 
lows. That  is  the  great  trouble  with  much  book  and  mag- 
azine gardening. 

But  there  is  a  more  important  argument  against  such 
follow-the-rule  gardening,  even  were  it  possible  to  succeed 
with  it.  It  would  be  a  joyless  gardening!  It  might  be 
cheaper,  but  it  would  be  little  more  attractive,  than  garden- 
ing at  the  grocers'  and  the  florists', — where  the  most 
certain  results  are  to  be  had  with  the  least  labor. 

No:  to  be  efficient,  and  what  is  even  more  important,  to 
find  exhilaration  and  recreation  in  his  work,  or  hers,  the 

xix 


xx  INTRODUCTION 

gardener  must  know  not  only  what  to  do,  and  when  it 
should  be  done,  but  why  it  should  be  done.  In  fact  the 
first  two  conditions  are  contingent  on  the  third. 

To  understand  the  habits  and  requirements  of  plants; 
the  properties  of  the  soil  which  contribute  to  their  well- 
being;  the  signs  and  warnings  and  prophecies  of  Nature; 
so  that  one  may  work  close  and  follow  her  leads — realizing 
always  that  she  is  a  fickle  dame  who  may  not  hesitate  to 
trump  a  safe  trick  or  play  low  on  third  hand  with  the  most 
careful  and  experienced  partner! — to  develop,  in  a  word,  a 
sixth  sense  which  keeps  one  en  rapport  with  the  "feel"  of 
the  soil  and  the  season; — this  is  to  become  a  member  of 
the  informal  but  world-wide  fraternity  of  "gardeners." 
The  initiation  is  long,  and  to  a  degree  strenuous, — and  it 
must  be  self -administered. 

Let  the  gardener,  then,  read  this  book  with  a  diligent 
eye  for  such  advice  and  suggestions  as  he  can  apply  to  his 
own  problems,  but  without  any  attempt  to  follow  it  blindly: 
for  the  real  work,  like  the  profit  there  may  be  (ten  dimes 
saved  is  a  dollar  earned!),  and  the  pleasure  there  is  sure  to 
be,  must  belong  to  the  gardener,  and  cannot  be  put  between 
the  covers  of  a  book. 

CRANMERE  FARM, 
April,  1917. 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE 
GARDEN 

January :  First  Week 

MAKE  YOUR  PLANS  NOW  FOR  SPRING  AND 
SUMMER  WORK 

With  the  beginning  of  the  New  Year  thoughts  turn  to  the 
coming  season's  work  in  the  garden.  No  matter  how  large 
or  how  small  your  plot,  no  matter  whether  you  raise  veg- 
etables or  flowers  or  fruit,  the  advantages  to  be  gained  by 
systematic  management  are  manifold.  The  first  thing  to  do 
is  to  get  a  definite  idea  of  the  amount  of  ground  at  your  dis- 
posal. The  second  is  to  make  up  a  budget;  in  all  probability 
you  can  figure  up  pretty  accurately  how  much  you  will 
want  to  spend  during  the  year  for  seeds,  fertilizers,  new 
plants,  shrubs,  tools,  and  so  forth. 

A  small  plan  of  your  grounds,  drawn  to  scale,  will  enable 
you  to  calculate  quickly  the  amount  of  space  that  can  be 
devoted  to  any  particular  purpose.  Such  a  plan  will  also 
make  it  possible  to  arrange  the  work  of  beautifying  your 
grounds  and  home  for  several  years  ahead. 

The  actual  work  of  making  the  plan  is  a  simple  matter. 
Half  an  hour's  work  with  a  tape  measure  will  enable  you 
to  get  all  the  dimensions  you  need.  The  plan  drawn  to 
scale  from  them  may  be  as  simple  or  as  elaborate  as  you  care 
to  make  it.  A  good  method  is  to  draw  the  permanent  fea- 
tures, such  as  the  boundary  lines,  drives,  walks,  buildings 
and  large  trees,  in  ink,  and  the  things  that  you  may  possibly 
care  to  shift  round,  such  as  the  vegetable  garden,  the  flower 
beds,  bulb  borders  and  small  shrubs,  with  hard  pencil. 
Proposed  additions  and  improvements,  such  as  a  hedge 


2  AROtTND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

along  the  front  of  the  lawn,  a  pergola  over  the  path  leading 
to  the  garage,  or  a  grape  arbor  in  the  rear,  may  be  indicated 
by  dotted  lines.  Such  a  plan  will  enable  you  to  see  at  a 
glance  whether  any  new  idea  may  be  advantageously 
worked  into  the  general  scheme  of  improvement,  and  you 
can  calculate,  without  having  to  go  out  into  the  garden, 
how  many  plants  or  bulbs  or  how  much  seed  it  will  take  for 
any  particular  planting  you  wish  to  make. 

No  person  who  takes  a  place  with  the  idea  of  living  per- 


Make  a  Plan  for  Future  Planting.  A,  Large  shrubs  at  entrance.  B,  Narrow  beds  along  front 
walk.  P,  E,  F,  G,  H,  I,  J,  Decorative  shrubs  and  trees.  K,  Pergola.  L,  Tool  house. 
O,  Hedge  along  street.  C,  M,  N,  O,  P,  Path,  grape-arbor,  strawberry  bed,  cane-fruits, 
and  bulb-border  for  future  planting. 

manently  upon  it  should  drift  along  from  year  to  year  with- 
out any  definite  plan  of  development.  The  place  may  be 
anything  from  a  suburban  plot  to  a  2oo-acre  farm.  There 
are  latent  possibilities  in  both  kinds  of  places,  but  no  two 
owners  will  agree  as  to  the  best  way  of  developing  any  par- 
ticular place. 

It  is  also  essential  to  select  the  particular  ideal  toward 
which  your  efforts  are  to  be  directed.  If  your  aim  is  to  have 
a  home  as  beautiful  as  possible,  and  enough  vegetables  to 
supply  the  family  table,  make  yourself  familiar  with  ex- 
amples of  good  taste  in  planning  the  home  grounds  and 
master  the  details  of  vegetable  growing;  if  you  think  you 
are  a  natural-born  poultryman  lay  your  plans  for  an  in- 
creasing number  of  colony  houses;  if  you  have  tackled  the 


JANUARY:  FIRST  WEEK  3 

problem  of  making  a  living  on  a  real  farm  pick  out  your 
specialty  and  lay  out  your  lines  for  experiment  and  expan- 
sion with  that  in  view.  But  first  fix  the  mental  photograph 
of  what  you  want  to  accomplish.  Then  you  can  follow  a 
step-at-a-time  policy  as  circumstances  permit,  which  will 
not  mean  wasted  effort.  A  step  at  a  time  in  a  straight  line 
toward  a  definite  goal  will  mean  rapid  progress;  steps  in  no 
fixed  direction  may  mean  no  progress  at  afl. 

Look  Over  Tools  and  Seeds 

Even  on  the  very  small  place  quite  a  number  of  vegetable 
seeds  accumulate  as  the  result  of  left-overs  from  former  gar- 
dens. The  garden-line  breaks,  trowels  and  hoes  are  lost, 
glass  in  the  hot-bed  sash  gets  broken,  tools  are  lent  to  neigh- 
bors who  forget  to  return  them,  and  there  are  a  hundred 
and  one  other  little  things  that,  if  attended  to  now,  may  save 
a  great  deal  of  annoyance  and  delay  and  possibly  consider- 
able loss  later  on.  It  is  an  excellent  plan  to  put  everything 
in  order  now  in  the  tool  shed  and  the  seed  boxes,  to  make 
any  needed  repairs,  and  to  make  at  least  mental  notes  of 
the  various  things  on  hand  and  those  that  will  be  needed 
by  spring. 

Seeds  left  over  from  the  previous  year's  garden  may  or 
may  not  be  good.  The  first  rule  for  the  gardener  is:  When 
in  doubt  throw  them  away!  Never  for  one  moment  let  the 
price  of  a  new  lot  of  seed  weigh  against  the  possibility  of 
even  partial  failure.  Some  seeds,  however,  keep  for  a  num- 
ber of  years,  as  follows:  Beans,  3;  beets,  6;  broccoli,  5; 
cabbage,  5;  carrot,  4;  cauliflower,  5;  celery,  8;  cucumber,  10; 
eggplant,  3;  endive,  10;  gourds,  6;  kohl-rabi,  5;  leek,  3; 
lettuce,  5;  sweet  corn,  2;  muskmelon,  5;  onion,  2;  oyster 
plant,  2;  parsley,  3;  parsnip,  2;  pea,  2;  pepper,  4;  pumpkin, 
4;  radish,  5;  spinach,  5;  squash,  6;  tomato,  4;  turnip,  5; 
watermelon,  6. 

Usually  there  is  no  way  of  telling  how  old  the  seed  is  when 
you  get  it,  so  the  only  safe  method  is  to  test  for  germination 
any  that  may  have  been  left  over.  Take  a  small  box,  such 


4        AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

as  a  cigar  box,  or  a  flat  for  a  larger  number,  and  plant  fifty 
or  a  hundred  seeds  in  each  row.  A  more  convenient  way  is 
to  place  the  seed  between  pieces  of  moist  blotting  paper,  or 
on  a  wad  of  cotton  in  a  tumbler  with  a  little  water  in  the 
bottom.  Planting  in  the  soil,  of  course,  corresponds  more 
nearly  to  the  conditions  under  which  the  seeds  will  be 
planted  and  gives  a  better  idea  of  the  percentage  of  germina- 
tion that  may  be  expected.  Of  most  kinds  at  least  eighty 
per  cent,  and  in  a  majority  of  cases  ninety  per  cent,  should 
sprout  readily.  Be  sure  that  the  soil  is  never  allowed  to 
dry  out. 

In  looking  over  your  implements  do  not  be  content  with 
merely  being  able  to  find  things.  They  should  be  tuned  up 
to  work  as  well  as  new.  First,  get  them  sharp;  on  all  tools 
with  blades  you  should  maintain  a  cutting  edge.  If  your 
various  tools  of  this  character — hoes,  wheel-hoe  blades, 
weeders,  sickels,  scythes,  and  so  forth — are  in  very  bad 
shape,  the  services  of  grindstone  or  emery  wheel  will  be  re- 
quired; if  they  simply  need  "touching  up"  whetstone  and 
file  will  answer  the  purpose. 

Paint  is  Cheaper  Than  New  Implements 

Second,  you  must  fight  rust  at  every  possible  point,  not 
only  because  it  will  wear  your  tools  out  much  faster  than 
hard  use  but  because  it  interferes  with  your  work.  Take  off 
all  of  the  nuts  on  the  various  attachments,  soak  them  in 
kerosene  until  they  can  be  made  clean,  then  put  on  a  little 
heavy  oil  or  vaseline  and  work  them  until  they  can  readily 
be  turned  on  and  off  and  any  desired  changes  made  without 
trouble. 

After  use  for  a  season  or  two  the  larger  tools,  such  as 
the  wheel  hoe,  seed-drill  and  wheelbarrow,  will  usually 
show  many  spots  where  the  paint  has  been  knocked 
off  or  has  peeled  off,  allowing  a  foothold  for  rust.  Rub 
down  the  edges  of  the  raw  spots  with  sandpaper  or  a  wire 
brush,  wipe  the  rest  of  the  machine  off  clean  and  dry,  and 
give  the  whole  a  light  coat  of  paint  over  such  portions  as 


JANUARY:  FIRST  WEEK  5 

were  painted  when  the  machine  was  new.  Paint  is  much 
cheaper  than  new  machinery,  to  say  nothing  of  the  added 
pleasure  of  having  clean,  bright-looking  tools  to  use. 

The  hand  sprayer,  whether  of  the  knapsack  or  the  com- 
pressed-air type,  should  also  be  overhauled  unless  it  has 
been  used  occasionally  since  summer  for  other  jobs.  If  it 
fails  to  work  take  out  the  plunger  and  soak  the  washer  in  oil 
for  several  hours;  or  if  the  washer  is  worn  or  cracked  beyond 
use  get  a  piece  of  heavy  leather  and  cut  out  a  new  one,  being 
sure  to  make  it  an  exact  duplicate  of  the  old.  If  the  nozzle 
or  any  valve  or  spring  has  become  corroded  soak  it  for  a  day 
or  so  in  kerosene  and  then  clean  thoroughly. 

By  all  means  go  over  the  cold-frame  and  hot-bed  sashes 
and  put  them  into  shape  unless  they  are  comparatively  new. 
Few  other  things  will  deteriorate  so  quickly  if  neglected,  so 
that  water  can  soak  through  to  the  wood.  Kept  in  good 
condition,  on  the  other  hand,  they  will  last  for  many  years. 
In  making  repairs  it  is  important  to  use  only  the  best  grades 
of  paint  and  putty.  In  putting  in  new  glass  or  in  patching, 
scrape  back  to  sound  dry  wood,  and  give  a  coat  of  paint  be- 
fore putting  the  putty  on.  The  putty  should  be  applied 
under  the  glass  as  well  as  over  it.  What  is  known  as  liquid 
putty  may  be  bought  for  about  sixty  cents  a  quart  from 
your  seedsman;  this  is  a  semi-liquid  paste  that  is  very  good 
for  this  work,  as  it  hardens  on  the  outside  but  remains 
plastic  inside,  adhering  better  to  glass  than  to  wood  and 
making  future  repairs  much  easier.  After  repairing  the 
sash  should  be  given  a  coat  of  "outside  white"  or  of  special 
greenhouse  paint,  applied  extra  thick  over  all  joints  and 
mortises. 

New  sash  should  be  ordered  now  if  you  are  going  to 
want  any  for  this  spring's  work.  Get  those  of  the  best 
quality,  even  if  they  cost  fifty  cents  or  a  dollar  more.  They 
should  be  so  constructed  that  there  is  the  least  possible  ex- 
posure where  the  pieces  are  mortised  together. 


January :  Second  Week 

AN  EQUIPMENT  OF  TOOLS  FOR  THIS  SUMMER'S 

SUCCESS 

There  is  a  saying  that  it's  a  poor  workman  who  finds 
fault  with  his  tools.  Nowadays  it's  a  poor  gardener,  if 
his  time  is  worth  anything,  who  is  content  with  any  but 
the  best  of  tools.  That  does  not  necessarily  mean  the  most 
expensive  ones.  All  garden  tools  are  cheap  enough,  but  a 
poor  tool,  no  matter  what  its  price,  is  expensive  in  two  ways 
— it  is  less  efficient,  and  it  gives  out  quickly,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  fact  that  a  poorly  tempered  tool  makes  an  ill-tempered 
gardener. 

A  sufficient  equipment  of  garden  tools  is  a  factor  in 
garden  success.  The  man  who  is  growing  for  his  own 
table  will  frequently  get  along  year  after  year,  skimping  on 
a  few  dollars'  worth  of  tools  that  he  knows  he  needs.  He 
argues  with  himself  that  he  isn't  getting  any  money  out 
of  his  garden,  so  he  must  put  no  more  into  it  than  he  ab- 
solutely has  to.  He  fails  to  realize  that  in  all  probability 
he  is  getting  two  or  three  times  as  much  profit  out  of  his 
crops  as  the  commercial  market  gardener  gets.  His  whole 
output  is  taken,  if  his  garden  is  rightly  managed,  by  the 
best  market  so  far  discovered — the  home  kitchen.  It  is 
worth  at  least  as  much  as  would  be  paid  for  stale  stuff  at 
the  store. 

Another  thing  that  keeps  many  people  from  buying 
needed  small  tools  is  that  they  do  not  calculate  the  actual 
cost.  They  decide  that  it  will  not  pay  to  invest  a  dollar  in 
a  spading  fork,  or  seven  and  a  half  dollars  in  a  sprayer,  or 
ten  to  fourteen  dollars  in  a  combination  wheel  hoe  and 
seed  drill.  But  if  tools  are  well  cared  for  they  should  last 
on  an  average  at  least  ten  years,  which  makes  an  annual 

6 


JANUARY:  SECOND  WEEK  7 

cost  of  ten  per  cent  of  the  purchase  price;  ten  per  cent  more 
will  under  ordinary  conditions  cover  the  charge  for  interest 
and  the  cost  of  repairs.  The  saving  made  by  not  getting  a 
spading  fork  that  costs  twenty  cents  a  year,  a  spraying 
machine  that  costs  a  dollar  and  a  half  a  year,  or  a  seed  drill 
and  wheel  hoe  that  costs  two  dollars  a  year — a  man's  labor 
for  one  day — is  often  wholly  imaginary.  In  the  home 
garden  it  is  often  possible  to  lose  several  dollars  by  saving 
one. 

There  are  now  special  tools  for  doing  most  of  the  garden 
work,  including  the  preparation  of  the  ground,  planting, 
cultivating,  forcing  and  protecting  plants  from  insects  and 
disease,  supporting  vines  and  climbing  plants,  and  harvest- 
ing. Some  of  these  tools  are  of  little  practical  use,  but  the 
great  majority  are  of  real  advantage  in  getting  better  and 
quicker  results  in  the  special  and  particular  work  for  which 
they  are  designed. 

Special  Tools  for  Different  Kinds  of  Work 

Of  the  various  tools  useful  in  handling  and  preparing  the 
soil,  one  or  two  makes  of  hand  garden  plows  are  practicable 
for  fairly  light  soil  where  there  is  no  rubbish  or  manure  to 
be  turned  under.  The  depth  to  which  they  will  work  is, 
however,  quite  limited,  and  for  gardens  too  small  for  a 
horse  and  plow  the  trustworthy  spade  must  be  relied  upon. 
The  spade  is  put  to  frequent  and  severe  use,  so  buy  the  best 
one  you  can  find  even  if  it  costs  a  little  more.  A  cheap 
one  will  not  stand  up  under  the  work;  the  blade  is  likely 
to  wear  down  quickly  or  to  become  bent,  which  is  worse  yet. 
A  spade  that  has  once  been  sprung  is  ever  after  a  source  of 
annoyance  and  delay.  A  poor  spade  is  likely  to  give  out 
where  the  blade  joins  the  handle.  A  good  spade  should 
have  steel  straps,  front  and  back,  running  well  up  the 
handle.  Some  persons  prefer  the  spading  fork  to  the  regular 
spade.  In  many  soils  this  will  do  just  as  good  work,  and 
do  it  more  rapidly;  it  is  lighter,  goes  into  the  ground  more 
easily,  and  is  better  adapted  to  breaking  up  lumps  of 


8        AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

earth  and  to  gathering  up  rubbish  or  manure  that  may  be  in 
the  way. 

Any  garden  that  is  large  enough  for  the  use  of  a  horse  can 
be  plowed  better  and  more  quickly  than  it  can  be  dug.  A 
one-horse  swivel  plow  that  is  especially  good  for  use  on  the 
small  place  or  in  the  large  garden  costs  about  ten  dollars. 
Its  advantages  over  the  ordinary  one-horse  plow  are  that  it 
leaves  no  dead  furrows  and  tramped  corners;  hillsides  can 
be  plowed;  closer  work  can  be  done  and  any  furrow  can  be 
turned  either  way.  When  you  buy  a  plow  by  all  means  get 
a  colter  with  it;  with  it  litter,  manure  or  a  cover  crop  can 
be  turned  completely  under  so  the  harrow  or  rake  will  not 
drag  it  up. 

The  iron  rake  ranks  with  the  spade  as  an  implement  of 
prime  necessity;  every  gardener  must  use  it  frequently, 
but  few  do  use  it  so  constantly  as  they  could  to  advantage, 
especially  after  crops  are  planted.  The  bow  type  of  rake 
costs  only  a  few  cents  more  than  the  other  kind  and  is  less 
likely  to  bend  or  break.  A  small  attachment  like  a  hoe 
blade,  arranged  so  it  may  be  fastened  to  the  back  of  the 
rake,  is  very  useful  in  cutting  out  weed  stumps  or  clumps  of 
sod  or  grass  that  would  probably  break  the  end  of  the  rake. 

Some  Hoes  You  Should  Have 

To  the  uninitiated  a  hoe  is  a  hoe.  But  there  are  now 
numerous  types,  to  say  nothing  about  makes,  on  the  market. 
At  least  three  different  kinds  will  be  needed  in  the  average- 
sized  garden.  The  first  is  a  sort  of  hybrid  between  a  rake 
and  a  hoe — the  flat-tined  hoe.  This  is  useful  in  leveling  off 
and  making  fine  ground  that  is  too  rough  for  the  iron  rake; 
in  clearing  and  raking  off  litter  or  rubbish;  in  working  the 
soil  between  rows  too  narrow  for  the  use  of  a  plain  hoe; 
in  working  over  manure;  in  gathering  up  stones;  in  digging 
potatoes,  and  in  other  ways. 

The  second  kind  is  the  ordinary  garden  hoe — but  you 
should  pick  out  one  with  a  thin,  sharp  blade,  a  solid  shank, 
not  a  ferule,  and  a  "  hang  "  that  is  just  right,  so  that  it  makes 


JANUARY:  SECOND  WEEK  9 

you  want  to  get  out  into  the  garden  and  use  it  as  soon  as 
you  get  your  hands  on  it.  There  is  always  more  or  less 
heavy  work  to  be  done  during  the  season  which  makes 
such  a  hoe  necessary.  But  for  three  jobs  out  of  four  in 
the  garden,  except  in  a  very  heavy  soil,  the  small,  light 
onion  hoe  is  to  be  preferred.  When  you  use  one  of  these 
for  the  first  time  it  seems  like  playing  at  gardening  instead 
of  working — but  you  will  notice  that  the  work  gets  done 
with  a  great  deal  less  elbow  grease. 

Then  there  is  the  warren  or  heart-shaped  hoe,  which  is 
especially  good  for  opening  and  covering  furrows,  digging 
holes  for  plants,  and  so  forth.  The  scuffle  hoe  or  push  hoe 
is  different  from  all  the  preceding.  When  a  wheel  hoe 
is  used  there  is  little  use  for  the  scuffle  until  late  in  the  sea- 
son, when  the  crops  are  so  large  that  the  wheel  hoe  cannot 
be  used  to  advantage.  While  not  absolutely  essential,  the 
scuffle  hoe  is  extremely  useful  in  preserving  a  dust  mulch 
and  in  keeping  small  weeds  from  getting  a  too  vigorous  start 
late  in  the  season.  The  price  is  moderate,  sixty  cents  to  a 
dollar.  In  buying  pick  out  one  that  is  narrow  enough  to 
go  through  your  narrowest  rows. 

Even  the  smallest  of  gardens  should  have  a  wheel  hoe  in 
its  tool  outfit.  The  simplest  type  with  several  different 
attachments  costs  only  a  few  dollars.  As  it  is  a  machine 
that  you  will  probably  use  in  the  garden  more  than  all  your 
other  tools  put  together,  be  sure  to  get  one  capable  of  doing 
all  the  work  you  may  have  to  give  it.  The  double-wheel 
hoe  has  a  distinct  advantage  over  the  single-wheel  in  that 
the  rows  can  be  straddled,  permitting  very  close  work 
while  the  plants  are  small  and  accordingly  cutting  down 
the  laborious  task  of  hand  weeding.  If  your  garden  is  at 
all  large  the  amount  of  time  you  will  save  in  weeding  it  the 
first  time  with  a  double-wheel  hoe  instead  of  with  a  single- 
wheel  hoe  will  make  you  satisfied  with  the  slight  additional 
investment.  In  addition  to  the  attachments  that  come  with 
the  double-wheel  outfit,  you  should  get  either  the  disk  at- 
tachment or  a  pair  of  hoes  with  extra  high  sides,  which  will 
keep  any  earth  from  being  thrown  over  the  smallest  plants. 


io       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

By  all  means  get  a  wheel  hoe  with  a  seed-drill  combina- 
tion. Life  is  too  short,  garden  space  is  too  valuable,  the 
work  of  thinning  plants  and  cultivating  uneven  rows  is  too 
costly,  to  justify  anyone's  planting  a  garden  by  hand.  When 
you  can  mark  the  row,  open  the  furrow,  drop  the  seed,  cover 
it,  roll  it,  and  get  it  straight,  in  one  operation,  as  fast  as 
you  can  walk,  the  laborious  task  of  hand-sowing  seeds 
like  onions,  carrots,  beets  or  turnips  is  out  of  the  question. 
In  addition  to  doing  the  job  better  and  infinitely  faster, 
covering  all  the  seeds  with  fresh  earth  and  dropping  them 
at  a  uniform  depth,  the  seed  drill  leaves  the  row  neatly 
rolled  on  top,  so  that  you  can  see  where  to  cultivate  before 
the  plants  are  up. 

No  tool  has  yet  been  invented  that  does  away  with  the 
worst  gardening  job  of  all — hand  weeding.  For  the  careless 
or  inexperienced  gardener  this  task  is  likely  to  seem  unend- 
ing and  nearly  hopeless.  Having  tools  with  which  you  can 
work  close  to  the  row,  and  using  them  before  the  weeds 
start,  will  enable  you  to  get  through  it  with  the  fewest 
possible  hours  of  backache  and  sore  knees.  Hand  weeding 
used  to  mean  sore  fingers,  too,  but  now  there  are  a  number 
of  hand  weeders  of  different  types  that  lessen  the  disagree- 
able features  of  the  task. 

No  gardener  can  be  sure  of  harvesting  his  crop,  no  matter 
how  rich  his  soil  nor  how  good  his  seed,  unless  he  is  pre- 
pared to  fight  effectually  the  various  insects  and  blights. 
Some  sort  of  spraying  machine  is  a  real  necessity.  For  the 
very  small  garden  a  good  bucket  pump  will  answer  the 
purpose.  But  pumping  from  a  bucket  is  not  a  convenient, 
effective  or  safe  way  of  applying  poisons  or  insecticides.  On 
every  small  place  a  sprayer,  either  of  the  knapsack  or  of 
the  compressed-air  type,  will  be  needed  sooner  or  later, 
and  a  great  deal  of  annoyance  and  loss  may  be  averted  by 
getting  it  sooner.  A  first-class  machine  will  cost  from  five 
to  ten  dollars.  Whatever  type  of  sprayer  you  get,  be 
sure  to  get  a  brass  one;  many  of  the  compounds  that 
will  be  used  in  it  will  quickly  eat  through  even  galvanized 
iron. 


JANUARY:  SECOND  WEEK 


ir 


n 


Protectors  for  Early  Plants 

There  are  a  number  of  good  machines  for  applying  powder 
or  dust  preparations  in  a  dry  state.  These  are  less  expensive, 
but  when  there  is  a  limited  amount  of  work  of  this  kind  it 
is  much  better  to  get  a  good 
spraying  machine,  as  practically 
every  remedy  that  is  made  in 
powder  form  can  be  duplicated 
in  a  spray. 

A  number  of  plant  protectors 
of  various  types  are  used  to 
keep  off  frost  and  insects  dur- 
ing the  early  stages  of  growth. 
All  these  are  useful,  but  many 
of  them  are  somewhat  prohibi- 
tive in  cost.  With  a  little  in- 
genuity and  a  few  tools  substi- 
tutes for  some  of  them  may 
readily  be  constructed  at  home. 
Garden  frames,  for  instance,  may 
be  made  of  cracker  or  soap 
boxes.  Deep  boxes  should  be 
cut  in  two  parts;  shallow  ones 
may  be  used  as  they  are.  Simply 
remove  top  and  bottom,  and 
cover  the  top  with  protecting 
cloth;  or  drive  in  " finishing" 
nails,  which  will  not  split  the 
wood,  and  bend  them  over  so  they  will  hold  in  place  on  the 
top  side  a  pane  of  glass  cut  slightly  smaller  than  the  outside 
dimensions  of  the  box.  These  frames  will  prove  extremely 
useful  in  forwarding  hills  of  early  cucumbers  and  melons, 
lima  beans,  and  a  few  extra  early  tomatoes,  peppers  or 
eggplants. 

Supports  for  tomatoes  and  pole  beans  may  be  constructed 
quickly  from  2-by-2-inch  or  iJ^-by-3-inch  scantling  and 
laths,  the  former  being  cut  into  posts  five  to  eight  feet 


12       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

long,  as  may  be  required,  and  the  latter  nailed  across  at 
intervals  of  twelve  or  eighteen  inches.  These  not  only 
give  a  much  better  bearing  surface  for  the  vines  than  do 
poles,  but  they  will  last  much  longer  and  will  always  look 
better. 

One  thing  that  offers  an  opportunity  for  money  saving 
is  frequently  overlooked — the  tool  chest.  For  some  per- 
sons tools  are  an  excellent  investment;  for  others  they  are 
absolute  waste  of  money.  Without  good  care  tools  soon 
become  practically  useless.  Any  handy  person  can,  with  a 
very  few  tools,  not  only  do  the  ordinary  repair  jobs  about 
the  place,  but  find  numerous  construction  jobs  that  will 
save  time  and  steps,  and  add  to  the  appearance  of  things. 
In  buying  tools  aim  at  quality  rather  than  variety.  An 
elaborate  outfit  is  not  necessary.  By  buying  one  good  tool 
at  a  time,  and  then  taking  good  care  of  it,  one  can  soon 
acquire  a  good  outfit  without  greatly  feeling  the  expense. 


January:  Third  Week 

UP-TO-DATE  TOOLS— SUGGESTIONS  ABOUT 
THEIR  SELECTION,  USE,  AND  CARE 

The  returns  from  garden  operations  are  not  determined 
by  the  size  of  the  garden,  but  rather  by  the  amount  of  work 
done  in  it.  Even  a  very  small  garden,  managed  so  as  to 
produce  the  maximum  of  which  it  is  capable,  will  show 
astonishing  results.  High-pressure  gardening  of  this  kind, 
however,  necessitates  more  time — and  time  is  just  the 
thing  on  which  the  average  home  gardener  is  short.  Usually 
he  is  limited  to  a  definite  period  each  day,  and  as  there  is  no 
known  method  of  stretching  time,  the  only  solution  to  the 
problem  is  to  use  tools  which  will  increase  the  amount  of 
work  which  can  be  done  in  a  given  time.  The  money  you 
spend  for  a  good  tool  is  really  only  the  buying  of  extra  time 
for  work  in  your  garden. 

Even  in  a  small  garden  a  combination  seed  drill  and 
wheel  hoe  will  pay  for  itself  handsomely.  A  combined  seed 
drill  and  single-wheel  hoe,  with  plow,  hoes,  cultivator  teeth, 
rakes,  guards,  and  marker,  can  be  bought  for  ten  or  eleven 
dollars.  That  may  seem  at  first  glance  like  a  lot  to  spend 
on  a  single  tool  for  a  small  garden;  but  such  a  machine  will 
last  ten  years  or  longer;  the  first  seed  drill  I  ever  owned  had 
been  in  use  ten  years  when  I  got  it,  and  after  using  it  three 
years  myself  I  sold  it  for  three  dollars,  and  the  last  I  knew 
it  was  still  doing  good  work.  Although  this  is  "one  imple- 
ment" here  are  the  things  it  will  do:  open  a  furrow;  drop 
seed  of  any  kind,  at  any  depth  desired,  in  a  continuous  row 
or  in  hills;  cover  the  seed  with  fresh  soil;  roll  the  soil,  leaving 
a  neat,  narrow,  plainly  marked  row;  and  mark  out  the 
next  row — all  in  going  once  over  the  ground  and  as  fast  as 
you  would  usually  walk.  Think  of  the  amount  of  time 

13 


14       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

wasted  in  doing  this  same  work  by  half  a  dozen  laborious 
hand  operations,  and  then  not  nearly  as  well!  By  changing 
the  tool  to  a  wheel  hoe,  it  will  hoe  the  ground  between  the 
rows,  working  close  up  to  them  and  killing  all  small  weeds; 
or  cultivate  it,  breaking  up  the  crust  if  one  has  formed,  and 
leaving  the  soil  loose  and  fine;  or  rake  it,  creating  a  dust- 
mulch  on  the  surface  to  conserve  soil  moisture;  or  plow 
shallow  furrows,  in  which  to  put  fertilizer  or  manure,  or 
large  seeds;  and  hill  such  things  as  are  benefited  by  having 
the  soil  thrown  up  toward  them  during  their  growth.  All  of 
these  things  done  more  quickly,  and  in  most  cases  better, 
than  they  could  be  done  by  hand. 

The  double- wheel  hoes  cost  two  or  three  dollars  more  than 
the  single-wheel  type,  and  have  several  advantages,  par- 
ticularly in  working  crops  during  the  earlier  stages  of 
growth;  and  personally  I  would  always  spend  the  small 
amount  additional  required  to  get  this  type.  The  double- 
wheel  machine  can  be  used  as  a  single  wheel  when  desired. 
I  never  yet  met  a  gardener,  large  or  small,  who  regretted  the 
money  he  had  spent  on  a  good  double-wheel  hoe. 

In  selecting  implements  of  this  kind,  there  are  a  number 
of  things  to  be  borne  in  mind.  I  have  used  at  various  times 
five  different  types  of  seed  drills,  and  some  eight  or  ten  of 
wheel  hoes,  and  I  have  never  yet  found  any  one  of  either 
which  was  best  in  every  respect.  The  kind  of  work  to  be 
done  and  the  condition  of  the  soil,  make  a  difference;  and  the 
personal  factor  must  also  be  taken  into  consideration,  as  I 
have  often  found  that  two  men  working  side  by  side  will 
prefer  different  types  of  tools  for  doing  the  same  work.  Of 
the  things  to  think  of  in  buying  any  tool,  however,  first  in 
importance  is  the  material  and  the  way  in  which  the  parts 
are  finished  up.  A  machine  that  is  poorly  made  and  roughly 
finished  will  not  only  wear  out  sooner,  but  will  not  do 
equally  satisfactory  work  while  it  does  last.  Another  re- 
quirement is  that  the  changes  may  be  made  quickly  and 
easily.  One  of  the  great  advantages  of  an  implement  of  this 
kind  is  its' great  adaptability,  and  a  machine  that  will  rust  or 
get  stuck,  and  be  such  a  nuisance  to  change  that  you  are 


JANUARY:  THIRD  WEEK  15 

apt  to  leave  it  in  one  form  from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of 
the  season,  will  be  a  poor  investment.  There  will  be  work 
for  each  different  attachment,  and  it  is  highly  important 
that  all  changes  can  be  made  with  ease  and  dispatch. 

The  machine  should  be  easy  to  work.  The  type  you  will 
find  preferable  will  depend  to  a  large  extent  upon  the 
character  of  your  soil.  Some  people  prefer  the  high-wheel 
type,  and  others  the  low.  In  light,  soft  soil,  where  the 
wheels  are  likely  to  sink  in,  the  higher  wheels  work  easier. 
On  the  other  hand,  in  rough  or  stony  soil,  it  is  more  difficult 
to  work  very  close  to  small  plants  without  cutting  into  the 
row.  Having  both  types  of  machines  on  hand,  I  use  either 
one  or  the  other  according  to  the  work  to  be  done;  but  if  I 
had  to  select  a  single  machine,  which  is  ample  for  a  small 
garden,  my  choice  would  largely  depend  on  the  character 
of  the  soil.  A  third  type  has  a  frame  that  fits  against  the 
body  to  make  one's  weight  available  in  pushing  it,  but 
except  for  plowing,  or  use  in  very  heavy  clay  soil,  this  is  of 
negative  advantage,  as  it  adds  to  the  weight  and  interferes 
with  the  backward  and  forward  stroke  of  the  machine 
which  is  used  in  most  kinds  of  work. 

Efficient  Use  of  the  Wheel  hoe 

While  in  the  use  of  the  wheel  hoe,  as  in  other  arts,  practice 
only  can  make  perfect,  there  are  a  few  suggestions  which 
can  be  given  which  will  help  the  beginner  to  become  profi- 
cient. First  of  all,  find  a  place  to  keep  the  machine  and  all 
its  attachments  where  it  is  perfectly  dry,  and  safe  from 
promiscuous  borrowers.  Keep  the  axles  and  working  parts 
of  the  seed  drill  well  supplied  with  oil,  and  occasionally  put 
a  few  drops  of  kerosene  on  the  bolt  and  nut  threads  to  keep 
them  bright  and  working  easily.  Take  pains  to  select  the 
attachments  best  suited  to  the  particular  job  you  are  going 
to  do.  Take  time,  after  you  have  the  right  attachment,  to 
get  it  adjusted  just  right:  this  is  of  the  greatest  importance 
and  many  people  are  not  careful  in  this  respect. 

Unless  the  ground  is  so  wet  that  it  should  not  be  worked, 


i6       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

or  you  have  allowed  the  weeds  to  grow  so  big  that  they 
clog  things  up,  you  may  be  pretty  sure  that  it  is  your  fault, 
and  not  the  machine's,  if  it  does  not  do  satisfactory  work. 
In  learning  to  use  the  machine,  train  yourself  as  soon  as 
possible  to  keep  your  eye  on  the  wheels  rather  than  on  the 
hoes  or  cultivator  teeth  that  follow  them.  At  first  you  will 
find  yourself  inclined  to  do  just  the  opposite,  with  the  result 
that  while  you  are  watching  the  blades,  the  wheels  will  veer 
off  to  the  right  or  the  left,  and  you  will  cut  into  the  row. 
If  you  hold  the  wheels  steady,  the  rest  of  the  machine  has 
got  to  follow.  Do  not  push  the  machine  along  steadily,  but 
work  it  in  long,  steady  strokes,  drawing  it  back  a  few  inches 
each  time. 

A  number  of  the  attachments  mentioned  in  the  following 
paragraphs  are  to  be  had  as  "extras,"  or  in  some  cases,  in 
place  of  the  regular  equipment.  For  anyone  who  already 
has  a  wheel  hoe,  their  cost  is  so  little  that  they  may  be 
readily  afforded.  Perhaps  the  most  important  of  all  of  these 
are  the  hoes  with  extra  high  " standards"  or  guards.  I 
emphatically  recommend  the  purchase  of  a  pair  of  these  in 
addition  to  the  regular  equipment. 

PLOWING.  Generally,  except  in  cases  where  the  ground  is 
already  in  good  condition  from  previous  planting,  more 
satisfactory  work  can  be  done  with  the  spade  or  spading 
fork,  than  with  any  hand  plow  I  have  ever  tried  or  seen. 
The  same  is  true  of  hand  raking  of  the  seed  bed,  to  level  and 
prepare  it  for  the  drill.  The  hand  wheel  plow,  however,  is 
often  useful  in  loosening  up  ground  that  has  already  been 
plowed  or  spaded,  and  has  lain  for  some  time  before  you  are 
ready  to  plant  it,  or  in  plowing  small  furrows  for  putting  in 
manure,  or  in  which  to  plant  peas  or  beans  or  corn  with  the 
drill. 

SEED-SOWING.  Have  the  ground  made  as  smooth  and 
fine  as  it  is  possible  to  make  it  with  an  iron  rake,  and  always 
freshly  prepared.  If  anything  happens  to  prevent  your 
planting  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  ready,  go  over  it  again  just 
before  you  do  plant.  Set  the  drill  as  carefully  as  you  can 
for  the  seed  you  are  going  to  plant,  and  then  test  it  on  a 


JANUARY:  THIRD  WEEK  17 

board  or  a  smooth  floor  to  see  how  it  will  work.  It  will  drop 
the  seed  usually  a  little  thicker  on  such  a  surface  than  in  the 
garden.  Watch  the  seed  carefully,  at  least  at  the  end  of  each 
row,  to  see  that  it  is  running  out  all  right.  A  small  lump  of 
dirt  in  the  bottom  of  the  seed  spout  or  a  bit  of  trash  caught 
on  the  opening  plow,  may  catch  the  seed  and  carry  it  along 
for  some  distance  and  then  drop  it  in  a  bunch,  even  when  it 
is  falling  from  the  hopper  all  right.  Keep  the  rear  roller 
wheel  clean.  If  the  soil  is  a  little  moist,  and  tends  to  stick 
to  it,  an  occasional  tap  with  the  wrench — which  should  al- 
ways be  carried  along  in  one's  pocket — will  dislodge  it. 
Mark  the  first  row  out  just  as  straight  as  you  can  get  it 
with  your  garden  line  or  a  piece  of  string,  and  don't  be  too 
lazy  to  make  a  new  straight  line  as  often  as  the  rows  may 
begin  to  get  a  little  crooked.  This  is  important  not  only  for 
looks:  every  crooked  row  means  additional  work  every 
time  you  work  it  throughout  the  whole  summer. 

CULTIVATION.  Cultivation  should  be  begun  before  the 
plants  get  above  ground.  Where  the  planting  has  been 
done  with  a  wheel  hoe  this  is  possible  because  the  rows  are 
distinctly  marked.  There  are  two  ways  of  getting  the 
best  of  any  weeds  that  may  start  ahead  of  the  seeds  you 
have  planted.  First  is  to  go  over  the  whole  surface  of  the 
garden,  very  lightly,  with  the  weeder  attachment,  or  the 
rakes.  The  best  time  for  this  is  just  after  the  seed  has 
sprouted  in  the  ground,  and  before  the  sprouts  have  got  up 
too  near  the  surface.  Millions  of  little  weeds  will  have 
germinated  and  be  above  the  soil,  but  so  small  you  can 
hardly  see  them  until  they  begin  to  collect,  like  tiny  pink 
and  white  threads,  on  the  tips  of  the  weeder  fingers;  then 
you  will  realize  how  many  hours  of  work  later  in  the  season 
you  are  saving  yourself.  The  other  way  is  to  use  the  disk 
attachment  with  a  double-wheel  hoe.  With  the  disks  care- 
fully adjusted,  and  with  the  outside  ones  of  each  gang  of 
three  removed  if  the  rows  are  closer  than  fourteen  inches 
apart,  you  can  shave  right  up  to  the  row  without  throwing 
any  dirt  over  it,  nicely  "discing"  the  ground  between  the 
rows,  destroying  the  young  weeds  and  breaking  up  the 


i8       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

crust.  When  using  the  disks,  push  the  machine  along 
steadily,  without  any  thrusting  movement.  The  slight 
ridges  left  will  be  leveled  down  by  the  next  cultivation, 
working  the  soil  over  thoroughly.  The  first  cultivation 
after  the  plants  are  up — and  it  should  be  given  just  as  soon 
as  they  are  up  enough  to  mark  the  rows — should  be  given 
with  the  hoes  with  extra  high  standards  or  guards  already 
mentioned.  They  permit  very  close  and  rapid  work  without 
throwing  any  soil  on  the  plants,  which  is  impossible  with 
the  regular  hoes. 

Get  at  the  First  Weeding  Early 

Immediately  following  this  cultivation  the  first  hand 
weeding  should  be  done,  even  if  there  seem  to  be  very  few 
weeds  visible;  between  the  plants,  as  between  the  rows,  they 
should  be  destroyed  as  soon  as  they  sprout,  and  not  allowed 
to  grow  until  they  are  so  big  as  to  threaten  the  existence  of 
the  crop.  After  weeding  the  soil  between  the  rows  will  be 
more  or  less  packed  down  hard,  and  the  next  cultivation 
should  be  given  with  the  cultivator  teeth  on  the  machine, 
to  loosen  the  soil  up  again.  There  are  three  types  of  cul- 
tivator teeth  which  may  be  had:  the  regulation  narrow  ones; 
the  "gang"  of  three  or  more  together,  of  which  the  best 
have  the  ones  nearest  the  row  work  shallower  and  nar- 
rower than  the  ones  in  the  centre;  and  the  separate  teeth 
with  extra  wide  bottoms  which  have  the  advantage,  where 
the  weeds  have  begun  to  get  a  little  ahead,  of  cutting  them 
off  as  well  as  breaking  up  the  soil. 

Every  ten  days  or  two  weeks  after  this  cultivation  the 
garden  should  be  run  over  between  rows  with  the  ordinary 
hoes  attached  to  destroy  any  weeds  which  may  be  sprout- 
ing and  maintain  the  dust-mulch.  If  the  ground  seems 
packed  at  all  at  any  time  substitute  the  cultivator  teeth  for 
the  hoes.  The  soil  should  always  be  worked  over  as  soon 
as  it  is  dry  enough  after  a  rain.  With  crops  such  as  beans, 
which  are  sometimes  benefited  by  a  slight  hilling,  the  hoes 
or  the  disk  attachments,  set  so  that  they  throw  the  soil 


JANUARY:  THIRD  WEEK  19 

toward  the  row  instead  of  away  from  it,  may  be  used  for 
very  rapid  and  uniform  work.  As  a  general  thing,  however, 
level  cultivation  is  to  be  preferred  to  hilling  as  the  loss  of 
water  from  evaporation  is  not  so  great.  Toward  the  end  of 
the  season,  when  crops  which  have  been  planted  close  have 
begun  to  fill  up  the  rows,  the  vine  lifters  should  be  put  on, 
and  the  single  wheel  used,  with  the  hoes  set  close  together,  or 
the  " sweep"  or  scuffle  hoe  attachment  used  in  their  place. 

For  ordinary  work,  going  once  in  a  row  at  each  cultivation 
will  be  sufficient.  If  the  weeds  have  begun  to  get  a  little 
ahead,  and  the  first  time  over  does  not  get  them  all,  or 
where  the  rows  are  too  wide  for  the  hoes  or  cultivator  teeth 
to  work  up  close  to  the  row  on  either  side,  go  twice,  or  three 
times  if  necessary,  until  the  work  is  thoroughly  done. 
Weeds  that  are  only  partly  destroyed  will  continue  to  make 
a  rapid  growth,  particularly  in  moist  weather,  and  if  they 
once  re-root  after  the  main  tap-root  has  been  broken,  you 
will  have  your  hands  full,  as  they  form  a  mass  of  fine  fibrous 
roots  to  which  the  earth  clings,  so  that  each  cultivation 
simply  moves  them  around  a  little  without  succeeding  in 
putting  them  out  of  business. 

In  addition  to  these  two  most  important  tools,  which  if 
properly  used,  will  do  most  of  the  work  of  planting  and 
cultivating,  there  are  a  number  of  smaller  ones  which  are, 
nevertheless,  essential.  The  outfit  of  tools  in  your  garden 
tool  shed  should  include  the  following:  a  spade;  a  shovel; 
a  spading  fork;  a  flat-tined  hook;  a  lawn  rake;  an  iron- 
toothed  garden  rake;  a  standard  light  hoe;  a  small  weeding 
or  " onion"  hoe;  a  Warren  or  heart-shaped  hoe,  for  planting 
and  furrowing;  a  reel  and  line;  a  scuffle  hoe;  a  trowel  and  a 
dibber.  For  facilitating  the  work  of  hand  weeding,  there 
are  several  types  of  small  tools  designed  to  save  one's 
fingers;  of  these  select  one  or  two  which  suit  your  individual 
taste;  personally  for  most  work  I  prefer  the  style  with  a 
plain  bent  sharp  blade;  known  as  " Lang's  weeder,"  which 
most  seedsmen  carry;  for  work  in  hard  soil,  about  in- 
dividual plants,  and  in  flower  beds,  some  type  of  finger- 
weeder,  with  or  without  a  long  handle,  will  be  useful. 


20       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

There  are  many  types  of  most  of  these  tools  familiar  to  all 
gardeners.  The  points  in  regard  to  them  to  be  emphasized 
here  are  three:  first,  see  to  it  now  that  your  equipment  for 
the  coming  season  is  complete,  repairs  or  additions  should 
be  made  now,  while  you  are  buying  your  seeds,  not  put  off 
until  planting  time;  second,  whenever  you  buy  a  new  tool, 
even  if  it  is  but  a  trowel,  get  the  best  quality  that  is  to  be 
found;  third,  make  adequate  provision  for  taking  care  of  all 
your  tools, — each  one  should  be  stamped  or  marked  with 
your  initial,  and  for  each  you  should  have  a  definite  place 
in  your  tool  house.  A  simple  method  is  to  have  each  tool 
numbered,  with  corresponding  numbers  painted  on  the 
wall  or  the  shelf  where  they  are  kept,  or  a  rough  outline  of 
the  tool  itself  may  be  painted  there. 

In  addition  to  these  garden  tools,  there  should  be  of 
course  a  lawnmower;  pruning  shears;  a  pruning  saw  (not  a 
double-edged  one);  an  "edger"  for  walks  and  drives;  a 
compressed-air  sprayer,  and  a  good  powder-gun  for  dry 
insecticides;  and  last,  though  not  least,  a  light  strong  wheel- 
barrow, preferably  with  good  springs  supporting  the  wheel. 


January:  Fourth  Week 

VEGETABLE  SEEDS  TO  ORDER  FOR  THE 
SUMMER  SEASON 

The  most  absorbing  garden  job  of  the  year — if  it  is  true 
that  anticipation  is  more  intense  than  realization — is  one 
that  will  not  take  you  out  of  your  easy-chair.  But  more 
than  likely  it  will  upset  your  ease  of  mind.  Probably  by  the 
time  you  had  finished  last  season's  work  you  thought  you 
knew  exactly  what  you  were  going  to  want  in  this  year's 
garden.  So  you  take  up  your  pencil  and  paper  and  cat- 
alogues with  a  serene  feeling  that  you  know  just  what  you 
are  going  to  order  in  the  way  of  vegetables,  flowers,  roses, 
bulbs  and  small  fruits.  But  by  the  time  you  have  looked 
through  the  second  new  catalogue,  have  read  the  testimo- 
nials about  the  sterling  qualities  of  some  of  the  things  you 
had  decided  to  discard  and  have  been  unable  to  find  any 
mention  of  the  fine  new  things  recommended  by  your 
friends,  you  will  be  as  much  at  sea  as  ever. 

As  a  matter  of  fact  this  whole  problem  of  varieties  is 
given  an  amount  of  time  and  worry  entirely  out  of  propor- 
tion to  its  real  importance.  A  wonderful  new  bean  or  cu- 
cumber that  you  admired  in  a  friend's  garden  was  probably 
the  same  thing,  under  a  different  name,  that  you  had  in 
your  own,  only  your  friend  had  been  able  to  give  it  condi- 
tions that  were  better  adapted.  The  hours  spent  in  puzzling 
over  varieties  could  be  employed  to  greater  advantage  in 
studying  the  problems  of  making  the  garden  soil  more 
productive;  and  the  money  spent  for  wonderful  new  vari- 
eties could  better  be  used  in  buying  up-to-date  tools. 

Our  catalogues  are  littered  with  scores  of  fictitious  vari- 
eties and  strains.  It  is  high  time  that  our  seedsmen  in- 
augurated a  movement  to  standardize  varieties.  Guard 

21 


22       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

against  exaggerated  and  one-sided  descriptions;  the  general 
tone  of  a  catalogue  is  a  fairly  safe  guide  as  to  the  quality  of 
the  seeds  and  plants  that  are  listed  in  it. 

There  are  three  really  important  points  in  connection 
with  seed  and  plant  buying — vitality,  purity  and  breeding. 
The  vitality  of  a  lot  of  seeds  may  be  judged  to  some  extent 
by  their  appearance;  at  any  rate  they  may  be  easily  tested. 
But  purity  and  good  breeding  are  more  difficult  matters. 
Many  states  have  laws  that  now  take  care  of  the  vitality  of 
farm  seeds,  but  practically  the  only  guide  of  the  customer 
in  regard  to  good  breeding  is  his  confidence  in  his  seedsman. 
Even  one's  own  experience  with  a  particular  variety  or 
strain  is  not  always  a  satisfactory  test,  for  conditions  and 
seasons  vary  greatly.  It  is  not  enough  that  seeds  should 
grow  and  be  true  to  name;  they  should  be  true  to  the  best 
type  of  that  particular  variety. 

Roguing  and  Selection 

Crops  grown  for  seed  should  undergo  the  processes  of 
roguing  and  selection.  In  roguing,  the  seed  grower  goes 
over  the  crop  before  it  is  mature  and  removes  any  plants 
that  may  be  off  type  or  of  another  variety.  In  selecting 
seeds  he  takes  only  the  best  specimens  that  can  be  found, 
with  such  special  points  of  superiority  as  earliness,  size, 
uniform  shape,  and  so  forth,  well  fixed.  When  you  really 
get  hold  of  a  strain  of  seeds  that  gives  you  satisfaction 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  order  enough  to  last  for  several 
plantings. 

There  are,  of  course,  some  sterling  novelties  introduced 
from  year  to  year,  but  as  a  general  thing  it  is  best  to  rely 
mainly  upon  strains  with  which  you  are  familiar,  trying  out 
the  newer  ones  under  the  same  conditions  before  you  decide 
they  are  better. 

For  the  benefit  of  those  whose  garden  experience  has  not 
yet  been  sufficient  to  enable  them  to  pick  out  satisfactory 
varieties  of  the  various  vegetables  the  following  may  be 
mentioned.  Some  are  old  standard  sorts,  and  some  are 


JANUARY:  FOURTH  WEEK  23 

newer  introductions  that  have  proved  themselves  so  gen- 
erally satisfactory  that  most  seed  firms  now  carry  them: 

ASPARAGUS.  Palmetto  and  Giant  Argenteuil  are  both 
good.  The  first  sort,  however,  came  out  considerably 
ahead  in  the  most  thorough  test  of  asparagus  varieties  so 
far  conducted. 

BEANS.  Before  selecting  the  varieties  of  beans  for  your 
garden,  be  sure  to  have  the  several  distinct  types  fixed 
clearly  in  mind.  Of  the  earliest  or  string  beans  you  will  need 
only  enough  for  one  or  two  pickings — just  enough  to  last 
until  the  wax  beans,  which  are  superior  in  quality,  can  be 
had.  Stringless  Green  Pod  and  Bountiful  are  good  vari- 
eties. Of  the  wax  sorts  Brittle  Wax,  Rust-Proof  Golden 
Wax  and  New  Kidney  Wax  are  excellent.  Of  the  pole  beans 
Old  Homestead  (green)  and  Golden  Cluster  or  Sunshine 
Wax  (yellow)  are  good  both  as  snap  beans  and  when  dry. 
Worcester  Horticultural  is  a  favorite  pole  variety  in  north- 
ern sections  where  the  seasons  are  rather  short  for  limas. 
Of  the  dwarf  limas  the  Burpee-Improved  is  the  most  sat- 
isfactory all-round  sort;  the  Improved  Henderson  is  hardier 
and  earlier  but  smaller,  being  in  an  entirely  different  class. 
Of  the  tall  limas,  Early  Leviathan  and  Giant-Podded  are 
among  the  best. 

BEETS.  Early  Model  is  a  fine  extra-early  sort  for  first 
planting.  Crimson  Globe  and  Columbia  are  good  for  use 
during  the  summer,  being  ready  very  soon  after  the  earliest 
sorts,  and  retaining  their  quality  even  when  they  have 
attained  large  size.  For  a  winter  supply  it  is  best  to  make  a 
later  planting  of  one  of  the  earlier  sorts,  such  as  Detroit 
Dark  Red,  which  does  not  get  too  large. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS.  This  vegetable  is  one  of  the  several 
relatives  of  the  cabbage  family,  and  one  of  the  finest  of  all 
vegetables  for  the  late  fall  garden.  Sprouts  will  sometimes 
remain  on  the  stalks  outdoors  without  protection  until  after 
Christmas.  Dalkeith  and  Danish  Giant  are  both  good,  the 
latter  being  a  little  larger. 

BROCCOLI.  The  only  excuse  for  the  existence  of  this  poor 
cousin  of  the  cauliflower  is  the  fact  that  it  is  hardier  than 


24       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

that  delicious  vegetable.    A  small  early  planting  is  worth 
while.    White  Cape  is  a  good  variety. 

Cabbages  the  Year  Round 

CABBAGE.  There  is  no  reason  why  a  supply  of  this  veg- 
etable should  not  be  kept  pretty  nearly  the  year  round,  even 
with  a  comparatively  small  garden.  As  usually  grown  there 
is  a  big  surplus  at  one  or  two  periods  in  summer,  and  none 
the  rest  of  the  time.  A  dozen  or  two  plants  each  of  Jersey 
Wakefield,  Copenhagen  Market,  Glory  of  Enkhuisen  and 
Succession  set  out  early  in  the  spring,  will  furnish  a  supply 
of  cabbage  until  September.  Half  a  package  each  of  Volga 
and  Danish  Ball  Head,  sown  in  the  spring  and  transplanted 
some  six  weeks  later,  will  give  a  supply  during  the  fall  and 
early  winter;  the  other  half  of  each  packet,  sown  the  last  of 
May  or  the  first  of  June  and  transplanted  in  July,  will  give 
a  further  supply  during  the  late  fall  and  winter.  All  of  these 
varieties  are  good,  but  if  you  like  real  quality  in  cabbage 
use  Savoy  in  place  of  Succession  in  the  early  and  in  place  of 
Volga  in  the  late  planting. 

CARROTS.  For  use  in  the  frames  or  for  extra-early  use  out- 
doors, Early  Nantes  is  one  of  the  forcing  varieties  that  will 
give  quickest  results.  Ordinarily,  however,  Chantenay  or 
Coreless  or  a  very  good  strain  of  Danvers  Half -Long  will 
answer  all  the  purposes  of  the  home  garden.  If  your  soil  is 
very  shallow  use  Chantenay  alone. 

CAULIFLOWER.  To  have  a  succession  throughout  the 
summer  plant  as  suggested  for  cabbage.  Remember,  how- 
ever, that  the  plants  are  not  so  hardy  and  cannot  be  set  out 
so  early.  Snowball  or  Best  Early,  or  any  of  the  varieties  of 
precisely  the  same  type,  or  Dry- Weather,  which  is  later  and 
more  robust  in  growth,  will  answer  every  purpose.  Do  not 
be  deceived  by  the  claims  that  are  sometimes  made  for  the 
Dry-Weather.  It  is  a  strong-growing  sort,  but  no  cauli- 
flower can  be  grown  successfully  without  plenty  of  moisture. 
With  proper  cultivation  it  can  be  grown  in  dry  weather, 
but  not  in  a  dry  soil. 


JANUARY:  FOURTH  WEEK  25 

CELERY.  Golden  Self-Blanching  and  White  Plume  for 
early  planting,  and  Winter  Queen  or  Boston  Market  for 
late,  make  up  a  combination  that  will  supply  celery  from 
early  fall  until  late  spring.  For  .earliest  use  start  some  seed 
in  early  February;  for  the  winter  crops  sow  the  seed  out- 
doors about  the  first  of  April. 

CORN.  There  are  a  large  number  of  varieties  of  sweet 
corn  but  there  is  probably  none  quite  so  universally  es- 
teemed as  Golden  Bantam;  it  is  one  of  the  earliest  and 
sweetest,  with  a  flavor  all  its  own.  It  is  particularly  good 
for  the  small  garden,  not  only  for  the  first  but  also  for  the 
succeeding  plantings  on  account  of  its  dwarf  habit  of  growth 
which  permits  much  closer  planting  than  the  older  types. 
Metropolitan  and  Howling  Mob  are  fine  second  early  sorts; 
White  Evergreen  is  still  the  standard  late;  Black  Mexican 
and  Country  Gentleman  have  exceptionally  good  flavor. 

CUCUMBERS.  Of  the  many  strains,  selections  and  im- 
provements of  the  old  White  Spine,  Davis  Perfect  is  on  the 
whole  the  most  satisfactory.  It  matures  very  little  later 
than  the  extra-early  sorts  and  keeps  its  quality  as  well  as  its 
color  for  a  remarkable  length  of  time.  For  some  extra- 
quality  fruit  try  one  of  the  English  forcing  varieties  in  a 
frame.  Telegraph  is  one  of  the  best. 

EGGPLANT.  Black  Beauty  is  the  most  satisfactory  all- 
round  sort  so  far  developed. 

ENDIVE.  Giant  Fringed  and  Broad-Leaved  Batavian  are 
both  good,  but  quite  distinct  in  flavor.  The  latter,  known  as 
Escarolle,  is  preferred  by  many. 

KOHL-RABI.  This  vegetable,  which  is  a  sort  of  over- 
ground turnip,  with  cabbage  flavoring,  is  very  easy  to  grow, 
and  if  gathered  for  the  table  while  it  is  still  quite  small — 
two  or  three  inches  in  diameter — it  is  very  good.  There  are 
few  varieties,  and  these  differ  chiefly  in  color. 

Lettuce  for  Spring,  Summer,  and  Fall 

LETTUCE.  To  have  a  continuous  supply  of  this  best  of 
salads  be  careful  to  select  types  suited  to  the  seasons  in 


26       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

which  they  are  to  be  grown.  Mignonette,  Grand  Rapids  and 
Big  Boston  are  three  of  the  best  sorts  for  use  in  the  frames  in 
spring  and  fall,  and  for  the  first  planting  in  spring.  Mi- 
gnonette is  very  small,  with  reddish-brown  outside  leaves, 
but  it  makes  a  very  solid  head  deliciously  tender  and  sweet. 
Grand  Rapids  is  the  best  of  the  loose-heading  sorts,  having 
very  tender,  closely  crumpled  leaves  which  form  a  very 
solid  loose  head.  Big  Boston  is  one  of  the  very  best  of  the 
large-heading  butter-head  varieties,  suited  for  growing  in 
cool  weather.  For  a  supply  during  the  hot  summer  months, 
Salamander,  All  Seasons,  Brittle  Ice  and  New  York  (Won- 
derful) are  all  good.  The  latter  two,  of  the  cabbage-head 
type,  are  quite  distinct,  having  thick  leaves  with  heavy  in- 
curving midribs,  and  form  unusually  solid  heads.  The 
Cos  type  of  lettuce  is  also  excellent,  especially  for  summer 
use,  but  it  demands  very  good  growing  conditions  and  more 
care. 

A  Muskmelon  That  Runs  Three  Feet 

MUSKMELONS.  There  are  a  large  number  of  good  vari- 
eties but  Netted  Gem  or  Rocky  Ford  is  the  most  popular 
green-fleshed  sort,  and  Emerald  Gem  is  wholly  satisfactory 
for  salmon-colored  flesh.  For  cool  climates  Montreal  Nut- 
meg, a  large,  green-fleshed  sort,  is  unexcelled  for  quality. 
Spicy  is  a  large,  oval,  orange-fleshed  variety,  quite  distinct 
from  most  others,  of  very  healthy  growth  and  excellent  fla- 
vor. Henderson's  Bush  is  a  new  and  distinct  type  of  par- 
ticular advantage  for  the  small  garden.  It  can  be  planted 
much  closer  than  the  ordinary  sorts,  requiring  only  about 
half  as  much  space  for  each  hill.  The  fruits  are  rather  small. 

ONIONS.  The  white  sorts  are  the  earliest  to  mature  and 
the  mildest  in  flavor,  but  they  are  harder  to  cure  and  not 
such  good  keepers  as  the  yellow  and  red  varieties.  Silver 
King  and  Southport  White  Globe  are  good  white  sorts,  the 
former  considerably  earlier.  Southport  Yellow  Globe  and 
Prizetaker,  the  latter  larger  but  not  so  solid  or  long  keeping, 
are  two  of  the  best  yellows;  while  Southport  Red  Globe  and 
Red  Wethersfield,  the  latter  earlier,  are  the  standard  reds. 


JANUARY:  FOURTH  WEEK  27 

Gigantic  Gibraltar,  an  Americanized  Spanish  onion,  is 
exceptionally  large  and  mild,  but  is  not  certain  to  mature 
properly  unless  started  in  a  frame  and  transplanted.  Ailsa 
Craig  is  another  very  large  sort,  suitable  for  handling  in  the 
same  way. 

PARSLEY.  The  several  varieties  are  quite  similar,  varying 
somewhat  in  color  and  degree  of  "  crinkling."  Emerald,  or 
Double  Moss  Curled,  is  very  good. 

PARSNIP.  Several  new  varieties  have  been  introduced, 
but  Improved  Hollow  Crown  is  hard  to  beat.  For  shallow 
soil  Offenham  Market  has  the  advantage  of  being  chunkier 
in  growth. 

PEAS.  Before  ordering  be  sure  you  are  going  to  be  able 
to  get  round  to  supplying  brush  or  a  trellis  by  the  time  the 
peas  are  ready  for  it.  Gradus  or  Prosperity  and  Thomas 
Laxton  for  early,  and  Alderman,  Boston  Unrivaled  or  Royal 
Salute  for  main  crop,  will  give  excellent  satisfaction.  Suc- 
cession plantings  of  one  of  each  of  these  early  and  late  sorts, 
made  about  three  weeks  apart  until  hot,  dry  weather  and 
again  in  August,  will  keep  the  table  well  supplied.  If  you 
want  dwarf  sorts  use  Laxtonian  or  Blue  Bantam  for  early, 
and  British  Wonder  and  Dwarf  Champion  or  Juno  to  suc- 
ceed them.  These  are  all  wrinkled  or  sugar  sorts.  Of  the 
hard  round-seeded  sorts,  which  can  be  planted  earlier,  but 
are  ready  for  table  only  a  few  days  sooner  than  Gradus  or 
Laxtonian,  the  most  satisfactory  sort  is  Pilot;  the  pods  are 
large  and  the  quality  is  almost  as  good  as  the  sugar  varieties. 

PEPPERS.  Neopolitan  Early  and  Ruby  King  make  a  good 
combination  for  the  home  garden.  Chinese  Giant  is  larger 
and  sweeter  than  Ruby  King,  but  requires  a  longer  season  to 
mature. 

RADISHES.  There  are  dozens  of  good  varieties,  but  the 
only  way  to  have  any  of  them  fit  to  eat  is  to  make  frequent 
succession  sowings.  Crimson  Giant  and  White  Icicle  are 
favorites  for  spring  and  fall.  White  Strasburg  and  Chartiers 
are  standard  summer  sorts.  Celestial  is  an  enormous  but 
a  mild  white  winter  sort. 

SPINACH.  Victoria  for  spring  and  Hardy  Winter  for  fall 


28       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

sowing  are  good  sorts.  Swiss  Chard,  while  really  a  beet,  is 
used  as  a  most  satisfactory  substitute  for  spinach.  Lucullus 
is  the  best  variety.  From  a  single  early  spring  planting 
greens  may  be  cut  until  hard  freezing  weather;  with  protec- 
tion the  plants  are  hardy  except  in  very  severe  climates. 
The  midribs  of  large  leaves,  stewed,  are  very  delicious. 

SQUASHES.  The  old  reliable  Warted  Hubbard,  Delicious 
and  Heart  o'  Gold  are  three  varieties  of  good  table  and  keep- 
ing qualities.  For  the  small  garden,  however,  Delicata  or 
Fordhook  and  Bush  Fordhook,  which  are  good  for  both 
summer  and  winter  use,  are  the  most  desirable.  The 
scalloped  and  crookneck  summer  sorts  are  earlier,  but  a  very 
few  hills,  two  or  three  of  each,  should  suffice. 

TOMATOES.  Bonny  Best  and  Chalk's  Early  Jewel  will  be 
found  especially  satisfactory  for  the  home  garden,  as  they 
are  not  only  early  and  of  good  quality  and  color,  but  bear 
throughout  the  season  fruits  that  in  everything  but  size 
are  as  good  as  any  of  the  late  sorts.  Matchless  and  Pon- 
derosa  are  splendid  late  sorts;  the  latter  is  larger,  but  is  more 
subject  to  cracked  and  deformed  fruits.  Dwarf  Giant  and 
Dwarf  Stone  may  be  grown  without  supports,  and  bear  first- 
quality  fruits. 

TURNIPS.  The  summer  sorts  go  by  very  quickly  and  only 
small  plantings  should  be  made  until  early  in  July,  when 
the  crop  for  winter  may  be  put  in.  Early  White  Milan  and 
Petrowski  for  early,  and  Amber  Globe  and  White  Egg  for 
late,  are  good  sorts.  Both  of  the  former  are  smooth  and 
mild,  and  the  latter  are  good  keepers. 

WATERMELONS.  Fordhook  Early,  Halbert  Honey  and 
Sweetheart  are  all  early  enough  to  ripen  in  an  ordinary 
season  in  the  cooler  sections.  Halbert  Honey  is  the  sweetest 
flavored,  and  makes  a  good  selection.  For  earliest  results 
start  a  few  hills  in  paper  pots  in  a  frame,  and  transplant 
outside  as  soon  as  the  weather  is  warm  enough. 


February:  First  Week 

MAKE  A  PLAN  NOW— AND  FOLLOW  IT  THIS 
SUMMER 

No  single  factor  in  garden  management  makes  for  greater 
saving  of  time  and  work  than  a  carefully-thought-out, 
definite-to-the-foot  garden  plan.  Such  a  one  should  be 
prepared  long  before  outdoor  operations  begin.  Perhaps  it 
will  take  several  hours'  thoughtful  and  careful  work  to 
make  it,  especially  if  you  have  never  made  one  before,  but 
every  hour  spent  now  will  save  several  hours  in  the  garden 
later  on.  The  plan  should  show  your  actual  garden,  drawn 
to  scale,  as  you  mean  to  make  it;  it  should  show  just  how 
much  space  you  intend  to  use  for  each  crop,  where  you  in- 
tend to  sow  second  crops,  and,  if  you  want  to  do  really 
intensive  gardening,  where  you  will  grow  companion  crops. 
It  will  help  you  not  only  with  this  year's  gardening  but 
with  next  year's  as  well;  without  it  you  will  be  only  guessing 
at  your  crop  rotations. 

First  get  the  exact  dimensions  of  the  plot  or  plots  of 
ground  that  you  expect  to  devote  to  gardening;  then  draw 
an  outline  to  scale.  One-eighth  of  an  inch  to  a  foot  for  a 
medium-sized  garden,  or  one-quarter  of  an  inch  to  a  foot  for 
a  small  garden,  will  be  found  a  convenient  scale.  When  it  is 
possible  to  choose  the  garden  site  a  rectangular  plot  that 
can  be  plowed  and  harrowed  the  long  way  and  planted  the 
short  way  will  be  found  best.  If  the  garden  is  large  and 
square  it  will  generally  be  a  good  plan  to  divide  it  by  a 
permanent  path;  rows  fifty  feet  long  are  ample  for  the 
average  garden.  The  aim  should  always  be  to  keep  the 
rows  short  enough,  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  garden, 
so  the  row  will  be  a  planting  unit.  Always  figure  your 
plantings  in  rows — not  in  seed  quantities, 

29 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


Next,  on  another  piece  of  paper,  write  a  list  of  the  various 
vegetables  that  you  plan  to  have,  and  decide  how  much 
space  to  give  to  each  one.  In  the  case  of  vegetables  for 
succession  planting  put  down  the  number  of  rows  for  each 

DATA  FOR  THE  GARDEN  PLAN 


VEGETABLE 

NUMBER  OF 
SOWINGS 

DISTANCE  BE- 
TWEEN ROWS 

DAYS  TO 
MATURITY 

MAKE  LAST 
PLANTING 

Beans,  dwarf  .... 
Beans,  pole  
Beets 

2-6 

I 
2—4 

15-24  inches 
3-4    feet 
12—15  inches 

45-75 
60-100 

60-80 

Early  August 
Mid-  June 
Late  June 

Brussels  sprouts.  . 
Cabbage  
Carrots  
Cauliflower 

1-2 

2-3 
2-3 

2—  -2 

2-3    feet 
2-3    feet 
12-15  inches 
2-3    feet 

65-90 

60-90 
60-90 

co-8o 

tt 

Early  June 
Tulv 

Celery  

1-2 

2-4    feet 

125-150 

July 

Corn 

2—4. 

•2—  A    feet 

60-80 

Earlv  Tulv 

Cucumbers  

4-6    feet 

60-75 

June 

Eggplants 

2    feet 

eo—  7"J 

June 

Kohl-rabi  
Lettuce           .    . 

-4 
-6 

1  2-  1  8  inches 
12—  1  8  inches 

60-80 

40-71; 

Late  July 
Early  August 

Leeks  

12—15  inches 

120—140 

May 

Melons  

4-7    feet 

90—120 

_    * 
June 

Onions  

12-15  inches 

120-175 

Early  May 

Parsnips  

15-18  inches 

150-175 

April 

Peas 

—A 

i.K-4  feet 

60-80 

Early  August 

Peppers 

2  feet 

40—60 

June 

Potatoes  
Radishes 

-2 

Every  10  days 

2-3    feet 
12  inches 

60-100 
25—  "?o 

Late  June 
Late  August 

Spinach  

—2 

12—  18  inches 

60-71? 

May 

Swiss  chard  
Squashes  

—2 

15-18  inches 
4-8    feet 

50-60 
60-100 

May 
June 

Tomatoes  

3-4    feet 

40-60 

Early  July 

Turnips 

2—4. 

12—  1  8  inches 

60—00 

July 

planting,  thus:  Bush  beans:  6  rows,  first  planting;  +  2, 
second  planting;  +  4,  third  planting  =12  rows.  Cabbage: 
i  row,  early,  +  2  rows,  midseason  +  4  rows,  late  for  winter 
=  7  rows.  Multiply  the  number  of  rows  of  each  thing  by 
the  number  of  feet  apart  they  are  to  be  put,  to  get  the  total 
space  to  be  devoted  to  each.  For  instance:  Onions:  6  XQWS, 
i  foot  apart  =  6  feet.  Beans:  12  rows,  18  inches  apart  = 
18  feet.  Tomatoes:  2  rows,  3^  feet  apart  =  7  feet  The 
correct  number  of  feet  apart  at  which  the  various  things  are 
usually  planted  may  be  found  in  the  accompanying  table. 


FEBRUARY:  FIRST  WEEK 


Fit  the  Crops  to  the  Garden 

Your  list  of  vegetables  and  spaces  should  now  be  sep- 
arated into  two  parts — one  of  original  crops,  the  other  of 
those  things  that  may  be  planted  where  something  else  has 
been  grown  before.  Find  the  total  space  required  for  your 
first  planting,  and  if  this  exceeds  the  size  of  your  plot  cut 


Early      CABBAGE 

%^   Row 

CAJ3BAGE1 

!       .       ***                CELERY 

2 

Row6 

U                   CAULIFLOWER 

I  :   T      tost 

Row 

LETTUCE.    CP) 
RADISH 
LETTUCE 

i       -         A                  CARROTS 
&       I   S      <§                      BEETS 

2 

S 

BEETS 

CADLm.ovrxB 

1 

.. 

f  A"R"R<yrs 

»_              ?&%Jft.BI 

jfA       :        ^                   CABBAGE 

1 

*>. 

." 

'.                ONION        SETS 
-                 ONION 

I 

V 

t     "  S 

J            PARSNIP 

. 

3 

..  s 

;         SALSIFY 

. 

3 

-  s 

Swiss  CHAKD 

. 

i 

- 

...                   BRUSSELS  SPROUTS 

i 

•• 

S-      Dwarf  PEAS 

*"*•».                    TURNIPS 

3 

••  s 

-K                         LETTUCt; 

t 

:     Early    CORN 

3      -  S      ^      Tall      PEAS 
.S 

3 

••    s 

Bwly    POTATOES 

*  -*  />  if^co^N 

down  the  items.  If  you  find  you  cannot  spare  nine  feet  for 
your  first  planting  of  beans  without  sacrificing  something 
that  you  would  rather  have,  put  in  fewer  rows. 

So  far  the  process  has  been  merely  mechanical,  but  next 
comes  the  test  of  your  skill  as  a  gardener.  Your  problem  is 
to  fit  your  crops  into  your  garden,  observing  as  far  as  possi- 


32       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

ble  the  following  rules:  First,  to  keep  together  in  one  place 
all  the  long-season  crops,  and  together  in  another  place  the 
quick-growing  crops  that  can  be  followed  by  others.  Sec- 
ond, to  keep  together  crops  that  are  similar  in  cultural 
requirements,  such  as  carrots,  beets  and  turnips,  or  toma- 


MELONS 

w      O      O       O      O 


POLE  BEANS 


LI  MAS 


CORN 

4-  ROWS 


DWARF  BEANS 


LIMA       BEANS  1    Row  V*  PEAS 


PEAS 


CUCUMBERS  fc.  HILLS  WATERMELON      4-   HILLS 

-~.  «-     ".->.  •  •• — -  BEFORE    CUCUMOE'R  tr  MELONS    — — — . — - ». 


TO  M-A.TOES 
«£>       C>        «i>         «*>          flt> 

It    PLANTS 


e  ft    <t 


PEPPERS     ('O) 


EGG         PLANT     (10) 


DWA.RF       PEAS 


SUMMER    SQUASH          6  HILLS  WINTER  SQUASH    4-  HILLS 

&GvGGtftf£tifi 

-*. • • BEFORE     PLANTING     SOUASH •- 


toes  and  pole  beans.  Third,  to  keep  together  crops  that  will 
mature  at  the  same  time.  Fourth,  to  keep  crops  from  occu- 
pying the  same  ground  that  crops  of  the  same  family  or  of 
similar  habits  of  growth  occupied  the  previous  year.  In 
small  gardens,  where  there  are  only  a  few  rows  of  each  thing, 
this  is  not  so  important.  Fifth,  to  give  the  various  vegeta- 
bles favorable  conditions  as  far  as  is  possible.  If  the  soil  at 


FEBRUARY:  FIRST  WEEK  33 

one  end  of  the  garden  is  rather  light  put  the  beans  there;  if 
the  soil  at  the  other  end  is  lower  and  heavier  put  the  celery 
there.  If  part  of  the  garden  is  to  be  newly  broken  use  that 
for  corn  or  potatoes,  and  keep  such  things  as  onions  and 
carrots,  which  require  a  particularly  fine  seed  bed,  on  the  old 
ground. 

When  your  plan  of  first  plantings  is  completed,  take  the 
late  and  succession  crops  and  arrange  them  in  the  same  way. 
Careful  attention  must  be  paid  to  the  time  when  the  first 
crops  will  be  removed.  The  usual  time  required  for  crops  to 
mature  is  shown  in  the  accompanying  table.  There  is,  of 
course,  considerable  difference  in  the  lengths  of  time  taken 
by  early  and  by  late  varieties  of  the  same  vegetable,  and  in 
addition  weather  and  other  growing  conditions  have  some 
influence.  An  extremely  dry  season  may  make  it  impossible 
for  you  to  follow  your  planting  plan  exactly,  as  first  crops 
will  be  late  in  maturing  and  second  crops  will  be  late  in 
starting.  Incidentally  this  is  one  of  the  things  that  makes 
an  irrigation  system  of  supreme  advantage.  With  it  there 
are  no  long-delayed  crops,  poor  in  both  quantity  and 
quality  when  they  finally  get  rain  enough  to  mature. 

Having  gone  so  far  as  to  map  out  your  work  in  the  garden 
it  will  be  interesting  to  see  how  accurately  you  can  follow 
the  plan  and  how  nearly  you  can  make  your  actual  garden 
come  up  to  the  ideal  one  you  have  put  down  on  paper. 
You  will  have  to  get  all  the  plantings  made  at  the  proper 
time.  So  you  should  make  a  check  list  showing  the  kinds 
and  the  amounts  of  the  various  things  to  be  planted  and  the 
dates  on  which  they  should  be  put  in.  Another  thing  you 
might  put  down  on  your  check  list  is  the  treatment  of  the 
various  insect  pests  and  diseases  that  are  likely  to  attack 
your  crops. 

Keep  a  Garden  Diary 

In  making  out  your  garden  plan  this  year  you  will  prob- 
ably find  yourself  handicapped  by  the  lack  of  accurate 
knowledge  about  your  plantings  of  last  year — how  much  of 


34 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


each  thing  you  used,  the  dates  of  the  last  frost  in  the  spring 
and  the  first  killing  frost  in  autumn,  when  the  various  insect 
pests  appeared,  when  you  made  your  last  sowing  for  winter 
vegetables,  how  long  after  planting  it  took  the  different 
varieties  of  vegetables  to  mature,  and  a  score  of  other  things, 
all  of  which  you  have  had  to  guess  at  with  no  degree  of  cer- 
tainty. Provide  now  against  next  spring.  Get  a  cheap 


APRIL  5 
*Z. 


<pa*> 


X    r 


• 


APRIL 


-- 


/o 


Keep  a  record  of  your  garden  work  for  next  year's  reference.1 

diary  and  leave  it  in  the  pocket  of  your  work  clothes  or 
hang  it  up  in  the  tool  shed.  In  it  jot  down  from  time  to  time 
the  things  you  particularly  want  to  keep  track  of. 

Unless  you  had  forethought  enough  to  do  it  last  fall,  you 
must  now  provide  yourself  with  a  supply  of  soil  in  which  to 
start  your  seedlings  of  vegetables  and  flowers.  For  the  seed 
boxes  the  soil  should  be  very  light  and  porous,  but  not  very- 
rich.  On  the  other  hand,  soil  for  transplanting  should  have 


ULfTV 

"ir  TS 


FEBRUARY:  FIRST  WEEK 


good  body  and  should  be  made  rich 
enough  to  enable  the  seedlings  to  make 
rapid  and  unchecked  growth.  Soils 
that  are  naturally  in  just  the  right  con- 
dition for  either  purpose  can  seldom 
be  found.  But  in  most  localities  one 
may  readily  procure  materials  to 
make  the  right  mixtures.  The  first 
of  these  is  fairly  rich  garden  soil — 
preferably  a  sandy  loam  that  has 
been  well  enriched  for  several  years 
but  is  free  from  weed  seeds.  You 
may  have  to  take  a  pick  and  break 
up  a  few  good-sized  pieces  of  frozen 
soil,  which  will  thaw  out  in  a  box. 
Also  get  a  supply  of  old  and  thor- 
oughly rotted  manure.  If  your  hot- 
bed still  contains  the  remains  of  last 
year's  heating  material,  that  will  be 
just  the  thing.  The  third  thing  you 
want  is  humus,  in  the  form  of  chip 
dirt  or  decayed  sawdust  or  leaf  mold. 
These  materials  should  be  allowed  to 
thaw  and  dry  out.  They  will  then 
be  available  for  immediate  use  when 
seed-starting  time  arrives. 


35 


EARLX    CABBAGE. 


SUMMER  CABBAGE 


CAULIFLOWER 


PARSNIPS  2 


DWARF  PE.AS 
CDOUBLE.  ROWS) 


SWEET  CORN    4- 

(2  YARIE1TIES-2PI.ANTING-S; 


TOMATOES 


POLE.  6EANS 


POLE.  LIMA  BEANS 


DWARF  BEANS     4 
4VARIETIE5-2  SOWINGS 


DWARF    LIMAS 


PEPPERS    &    E&OPLANT58 


MELONS 


SQUASH 
SUMMER  BUSH 


SQUASH 
WINTER  BUS* 


CUCUMBERS    WATERMELONS 


Plan  for  a  vegetable  gar- 
den 15  x  75  feet. 


February :  Second  Week 
STARTING  SEEDS  IN  GREENHOUSE  OR  HOT-BED 

Early  this  month  the  work  of  actually  getting  the  garden 
started  must  begin.  Up  to  now  it  has  been  mostly  planning 
and  seed  buying.  But  a  glance  at  the  garden  plan  shows 
that  by  the  time  operations  outdoors  may  be  begun  plants  of 
various  kinds,  already  well  started,  will  be  required.  The 
success  of  the  garden  throughout  the  summer  will  depend 
to  a  large  extent  upon  the  size  and  quality  of  the  plants, 
both  vegetables  and  flowers,  transferred  to  the  open  ground 
at  the  beginning  of  the  season. 

The  utility  of  the  carefully  made  garden  plan  becomes 
apparent  at  this  stage  of  the  game.  The  gardener  who  has 
not  felt  like  "wasting  the  time"  to  make  such  a  plan  goes 
ahead  on  a  guesswork  basis,  planting  enough  of  the  things 
he  thinks  he  will  want  to  be  sure  to  have  abundance;  while 
his  neighbor,  who  has  taken  the  trouble  to  figure  things  out 
accurately,  knows  just  how  many  plants  of  each  variety  he 
will  require  and  consequently  does  not  waste  seeds  and  time 
and  room.  Growing  fewer  plants,  he  can  give  them  more 
room  and  consequently  get  them  of  better  quality.  The 
ordinary  packet  of  most  things  to  be  started — tomatoes, 
cabbage,  cauliflower,  lettuce  and  so  forth — contains  more 
than  enough  seed  to  supply  an  average  small  garden,  but 
if  one  has  room  in  the  frames  any  surplus  of  good  plants  can 
generally  be  disposed  of  to  neighbors  and  friends  at  a  reason- 
able profit,  giving  the  grower  the  additional  advantage  of 
being  able  to  select  the  best  for  his  own  use. 

The  starting  point  of  operations  now,  as  later  out-of-doors, 
is  the  seed.  What  is  a  seed?  It  is  a  particle  of  vegetable 
matter  in  which  two  things  have  taken  place:  First,  the 
life  force  has  been  temporarily  arrested  and  lies  dormant, 

36 


FEBRUARY:  SECOND  WEEK  37 

ready  to  react  to  the  proper  stimuli  from  the  outside  and  to 
become  active  again.  Second,  the  usual  processes  of  change 
and  decay  have  also  been  arrested,  and  the  vegetable  matter 
forming  the  seed — which  must  feed  and  sustain  the  germ 
until  it  develops  sufficiently  to  absorb  nutrition  from  ex- 
terior sources — is  preserved  and  kept  in  good  condition. 

Certain  conditions  are  necessary  for  the  germination  of 
seeds — heat,  moisture  and  light,  the  latter  not  being 
necessary,  however,  until  the  seed  has  sprouted  and  shows 
above  ground.  The  theory  that  seeds  will  sprout  better 
in  a  dark  place  is  probably  based  solely  upon  the  fact  that 
an  even  condition  of  the  moisture  in  the  soil  is  more  likely 
to  be  maintained  in  such  a  place  than  in  the  sun.  The  gar- 
dener's problem  is  not  only  to  give  these  several  conditions 
but  also  to  supply  them  in  the  proper  degree  for  the  par- 
ticular kind  of  seed  he  wants  to  grow. 

Getting  a  Good  Stand:  The  Things  Not  to  Do 

The  seeds  of  most  of  the  hardy  vegetables  are  quite  cold- 
blooded— that  is,  they  will  start  in  a  temperature  in  which 
a  more  tropical  thing  will  either  lie  dormant  or  rot.  Rad- 
ishes, celery  or  parsley,  for  instance,  will  sprout  vigorously 
where  tomatoes  or  eggplants  will  probably  fail  to  come  up 
at  all.  Lima  beans  will  rot  to  the  last  seed  after  a  rain  that 
will  make  other  seeds  sprout  quickly.  Still  other  seeds 
have  such  hard  casings  or  shells  that  the  seed  sprouts, 
even  when  heat  and  moisture  are  supplied,  cannot  break 
through.  From  this  cause  cannas,  moonflowers  and  sweet 
peas  sometimes  fail  to  germinate.  If  the  hard  outer  shell  is 
carefully  cut  through  with  a  knife  or  file  before  planting, 
this  difficulty  can  be  overcome. 

As  a  usual  thing  seedsmen  are  careful  to  send  out  only 
seeds  that  show  a  fair  percentage  of  germination.  If  the. 
seeds  fail  to  come  up  or  come  up  poorly  the  seedsman  is 
blamed,  and  next  year's  order  probably  goes  somewhere 
else.  But  here  are  some  of  the  things  that  cause  failure 
even  when  good  seeds  are  used: 


38       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

DRYING  OUT  OF  SEED  BOXES.  Seeds,  especially  small 
seeds,  that  are  very  near  the  surface,  frequently  fail  from 
this  cause.  They  may  have  enough  moisture  to  germinate, 
but  then  the  soil  becomes  so  dry  that  the  sprout  which  is 
beginning  to  push  out  from  the  seed  is  dried  up.  Neg- 
lect that  would  do  no  harm  to  seedlings  an  inch  or 
two  high  will  prove  fatal  to  seeds  that  are  just  ger- 
minating. 

COVERING  SEEDS  Too  DEEP.  They  are  seldom  covered 
too  deep  to  germinate,  but  often  are  buried  so  deep  that  only 
a  very  few  are  able  to  push  through  to  the  surface,  and  these 
are  weakened  by  the  struggle. 

USING  THE  WRONG  KIND  OF  SOIL.  Ordinary  garden  soil, 
especially  if  it  is  at  all  heavy  or  clayey,  is  literally  too  heavy 
to  cover  the  seeds  with.  Furthermore,  it  has  a  tendency  to 
form  more  or  less  of  a  crust  after  being  watered.  For 
starting  all  small  seeds  the  soil  should  be  light,  and  so 
crumbly  that  it  will  not  make  a  crust.  Very  slight  resistance 
may  prove  fatal  to  the  tiny  seedlings  before  they  get  above 
ground. 

Too  HIGH  OR  Too  Low  TEMPERATURE.  Flower  seeds,  on 
the  average,  require  a  warmer  temperature  than  vegetable 
seeds.  Hardy  and  half-hardy  sorts,  such  as  sweet  alyssum 
and  snapdragons,  should  be  given  a  temperature  of  about 
sixty  degrees.  The  warmer  things,  like  salvia,  heliotrope 
and  coleus,  should  be  given  ten  to  fifteen  degrees  more. 

POOR  DRAINAGE.  This  trouble,  due  to  improper  soil  or 
tight-bottomed  flats,  causing  the  soil  to  stay  wet  and  soggy 
after  watering,  will  cause  many  kinds  of  seeds  to  rot. 
Provision  for  the  best  of  drainage  should  always  be  made, 
so  that  surplus  water  can  always  soak  down  below  the  level 
of  the  seeds. 

CARELESS  WATERING.  Water  applied  too  freely  is  likely 
to  wash  the  dirt  so  that  some  of  the  seeds  are  uncovered  or 
even  washed  aside  into  the  corner  of  the  box,  and  others 
are  covered  too  deeply.  Also  the  soil  is  likely  to  form  a  hard 
crust.  Even  after  the  little  seedlings  are  up  they  can  be 
severely  injured  by  careless  watering,  as  they  are  easily 


FEBRUARY:  SECOND  WEEK  39 

knocked  over  flat,  weakening  the  plants  and  making  the 
stems  crooked. 

PESTS  OF  VARIOUS  SORTS.  Mice  will  take  the  greatest 
of  pleasure  in  going  over  your  seed  boxes  during  the  night 
and  rooting  out  the  little  seeds.  In  the  frames  or  green- 
house, slugs  are  likely  to  do  damage. 

The  Things  to  Do 

These  are  things  not  to  do.  As  to  the  things  to  do,  the 
first,  of  course,  is  to  provide  a  place  to  start  the  seeds.  A 
small  greenhouse,  a  hot-bed,  a  sunny  window  in  a  room  in 
the  house,  or  a  cold-frame  may  be  used.  The  objection 
to  the  hot-bed  is  that  you  cannot  work  in  it  in  bad  weather 
and  the  temperature  cannot  be  watched  and  regulated  as 
well  as  in  the  greenhouse.  In  the  house  the  atmosphere 
is  likely  to  be  entirely  too  dry  for  seeds.  The  cold-frame 
cannot  be  used  early  enough. 

The  secret  of  success  is  in  giving  regular  care.    Watering  ^ 
and  ventilation  must  be  looked  after  every  day,  particularly  [ 
as  the  spring  sun  grows  stronger.     During  midday  the  [ 
temperature  in  the  frames  will  run  up  to  an  injurious 
degree  if  the  sashes  are  left  on. 

Some  gardeners  make  a  practice  of  sowing  the  seed 
directly  in  the  soil,  but  under  most  circumstances  it  is  far 
more  convenient  to  use  flats.  Seedlings  grown  directly  in 
the  soil  are  not  so  likely  to  dry  out  if  they  are  neglected, 
but  other  advantages  of  the  flats,  in  moving  them  about  and 
changing  them  from  one  frame  to  another,  more  than  offset 
this.  Flats  may  be  made  quickly  and  easily  from  cracker  or 
soap  boxes.  Those  for  starting  seeds  may  be  made  about 
two  inches  deep;  those  for  transplanting  should  be  an  inch 
deeper.  In  putting  bottoms  on  the  flats,  leave  small 
spaces  between  the  boards,  or  bore  several  half-inch  holes. 

The  soil  in  which  the  seedlings  are  started  should  be 
spongy  enough  to  absorb  and  to  retain  moisture  for  a  long 
time;  porous  enough  to  let  any  surplus  drain  through  it 
rapidly;  friable  enough  so  that  it  will  never  form  a  crust; 


40       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

light  enough  so  that  any  seedlings  can  push  up  through 
it  readily,  and  as  free  as  possible  from  weed  seeds.  Such  a 
soil  is  hard  to  find — but  not  difficult  to  make.  Leaf  mold 
or  chip  dirt  rubbed  through  an  ordinary  ash  sifter,  or  cocoa- 
nut  fiber  mixed  with  a  clean,  light,  sifted  soil,  with  the 
addition  of  sand,  if  it  is  necessary,  to  make  the  whole 
slightly  gritty,  will  give  the  desired  results.  Fill  the  flats 
not  quite  to  the  top.  Be  careful  to  pack  the  soil  firmly  in 
the  corners  and  along  the  edges. 

Careful  Watering  at  All  Stages 

It  is  important  to  have  the  soil  in  just  the  right  condition 
of  moisture  when  the  seeds  are  planted.  To  be  sure  of 
this,  water  thoroughly  the  day  before  planting,  or  set  the 
flat  in  a  pan  of  water  so  that  it  can  soak  up  moisture  from 
the  bottom,  or  water  the  flat  thoroughly  when  it  is  about 
two-thirds  filled  with  soil,  putting  on  the  surface  layer 
afterward — in  which  case  it  will  become  moist  clear  to  the 
surface  without  getting  muddy  or  sticky. 

Make  tags  for  the  various  things  you  expect  to  plant. 
Then  you  will  be  in  no  danger  of  getting  them  mixed  up. 
Mark  off  very  shallow  furrows  about  two  or  three  inches 
apart.  Most  of  the  vegetable  seeds  go  in  about  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  deep;  most  of  the  flower  seeds,  which  are  very 
small,  should  be  barely  covered.  Very  small  seeds,  like 
those  of  the  begonia,  nicotiana,  mignonette  or  portulaca, 
should  be  merely  pressed  into  the  surface  of  the  soil  with  a 
small  piece  of  board  and  covered  with  a  few  pieces  of 
shredded  moss  or  leaf  mold  laid  upon  the  surface  to  shade 
them  until  they  are  up.  Sow  the  seeds  as  evenly  as  possible 
and  not  too  thick,  even  if  you  have  some  left  over  in  the 
packet.  Then  press  them  into  the  soil  lightly  with  the 
forefinger  or  the  edge  of  a  thin  board,  and  cover  them  lightly 
with  soil,  pressing  it  down  firmly  but  not  hard.  If  the  soil 
has  been  prepared  as  suggested,  watering  immediately 
after  planting  will  not  be  necessary.  If  watering  is  required, 
either  right  after  planting  or  at  any  time  before  the  seeds 


PLATE  i. — If  you  have  only  a  small  greenhouse  with  no  "warm  section" 
here  is  a  way  of  rigging  up  a  frame  in  which  to  start  things  requiring  a 
higher  temperature  than  the  house  affords, — such  as  cucumbers,  melons  and 
tender  flowers.  (Lower)  This  shows  the  method  of  preparing  a  flat  for  the 
sowing  of  fine  seeds;  if  they  are  very  small,  it  is  best  to  distribute  them  di- 
rect from  the  packet,  by  tapping  it  gently  with  the  finger.  A  board  and 
marker  shown  on  the  left  are  convenient  in  getting  the  soil  in  the  flat  smooth 
and  level  and  in  marking  off  the  little  furrows  for  the  seed. 


PLATE  2. — There  are  a  number  of  factors  which  help  to  determine  how  deep  seeds  should  be 
covered.  As  a  rule,  very  small  seeds,  such  as  lettuce  or  onion,  are  covered  }/*-}/*  inch  (see  2 
above):  medium  sized  seeds  like  beets  or  melons  are  covered  K~K  inch  deep  (see  1  above);  and 
large  seeds  such  as  beans  and  peas  are  covered  1  to  2  inches  deep  (see  3  above).  "  Double "  rows, — 
two  single  rows,  six  inches  or  so  apart,  are  often  used,  especially  for  peas  (see  4  above). 


PLATE  2.— The  art  of  starting  plants  early  under  glass  for  transplanting  later  is  one  of  the  most 
important  things  the  gardener  has  to  do.  Getting  a  "good  stand"  of  seedlings  is  only  the  first 
step  One  of  the  things  to  be  guarded  against  particularly  is  letting  the  little  seedlings  get  too 
large  before  they  are  transplanted.  The  plants  shown  in  the  right  hand  corner  are  ready  to  trans- 
plant. The  second  true  leaves  are  just  developing.  Those  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner  have  been 
allowed  to  go  a  few  days  too  long  and  have  become  tangled  and  have  grown  up  spindling.  In  the 
lower  left  hand  corner  is  shown  a  flat  of  little  plants  just  transplanted.  The  best  way  to  water 
them  after  the  operation  is  to  put  the  whole  flat  in  a  tub  or  a  pan  like  that  shown  in  the  lower 
right  hand  corner  and  then  to  add  enough  water  to  saturate  the  soil  in  the  flat  thoroughly  from 
below.  As  soon  as  the  soil  begins  to  appear  moist  on  the  surface,  lift  the  flat  out.  In  this  way 
the  soil  is  soaked  thoroughly  without  in  the  slightest  degree  injuring  the  little  seedlings. 


FEBRUARY:  SECOND  WEEK  41 

are  up,  it  is  best  to  do  it  by  placing  the  box  for  half  an  hour 
or  so  in  a  shallow  pan  of  water.  If  this  cannot  be  done  use 
a  very  fine  spray,  or  water  through  a  piece  of  moist  burlap. 

As  already  explained,  it  is  most  important  to  keep  the 
surface  of  the  soil  from  drying  out  until  after  the  plants 
are  well  started.  To  do  this,  a  pane  of  glass  or  a  sheet  of 
newspaper — preferably  the  glass — laid  over  the  box,  and 
tilted  up  a  little  at  one  edge  to  admit  fresh  air,  will  prove 
very  helpful,  as  it  will  retain  moisture  that  would  other- 
wise pass  off  into  the  air.  Germination  will  be  quickened 
and  strengthened  if  bottom  heat  can  be  given.  For  a 
single  flat  or  two  the  simple  forcing  device  described  on 
page  340  will  prove  very  helpful. 

As  soon  as  the  little  seedlings  are  up  they  must  be  given 
an  abundance  of  light  at  all  times,  and  they  should  have 
ventilation  every  day  that  it  is  not  too  cold.  Air  should  be 
admitted  so  it  will  not  blow  directly  upon  the  plants.  The 
soil  should  be  watched  carefully  and  watered  as  soon  as  it 
begins  to  dry  out,  as  indicated  by  its  beginning  to  look 
light  and  powdery  on  the  surface.  Subwatering,  if  it  can 
be  used,  is  the  best  method  to  employ.  A  galvanized  tin 
tray  may  be  made  at  small  cost  by  any  tinsmith  or  plumber. 
This  is  made  two  to  three  inches  larger  in  each  direction 
than  the  flats,  which  are  set  in  it  in  enough  water  to  satu- 
rate the  soil  thoroughly  without  making  it  wet. 

How  to  Transplant  Seedlings 

When  a  seedling  begins  to  show  its  third  true  leaf  it  is 
large  enough  to  transplant.  The  little  plants  should  always 
be  moved  before  they  crowd  one  another.  The  flats  for 
transplanting  should  be  prepared  in  much  the  same  way 
as  those  for  the  seed,  except  that  a  layer  of  heavier,  richer 
soil  should  be  used,  and  a  layer  of  old  rotted  manure  should 
be  put  in  the  bottom  of  each  flat.  If  manure  is  not  avail- 
able two  or  three  quarts  of  bone  flour  or  bone  flour  and 
tankage  should  be  thoroughly  mixed  with  each  bushel  of 
soil  used,  preferably  a  week  or  two  in  advance. 


42       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

If  the  soil  in  both  seed  flats  and  transplanting  flats  is 
watered  thoroughly  a  day  in  advance,  it  will  be  in  the  right 
condition  for  good  work.  In  taking  the  little  seedlings  from 
the  seed  flats  lift  them  out  in  a  clump  and  separate  them 
gently  with  the  fingers,  taking  care  to  disturb  the  fragile 
rootlets  as  little  as  possible.  In  the  transplanting  flat 
make  a  small  hole  with  the  forefinger  or  a  small  pointed 
stick,  lower  the  little  seedling  into  it  until  the  greater  part 
of  the  stem  is  covered,  and  with  the  thumbs  and  forefingers 
press  the  earth  firmly  about  it.  After  transplanting  give 
a  thorough  watering  and  keep  the  plants  shaded  from  the 
hot  sun  for  a  few  days  giving  only  an  occasional  sprinkling, 
if  necessary,  to  freshen  up  the  plants  until  growth  is  re- 
newed, as  it  should  be  at  the  end  of  a  few  days. 

Some  six  to  eight  weeks  before  it  is  safe  to  plant  out- 
side— during  the  latter  part  of  February  in  the  latitudes  of 
New  York,  Chicago  and  Kansas  City — the  hot-bed  should 
be  filled  for  action.  Even  if  you  have  not  a  hot-bed  frame 
already  on  the  place  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  forego  its 
advantages  this  spring.  One  may  be  purchased  knocked 
down  and  ready  to  go  together  with  a  few  bolts  and  half  an 
hour's  work.  If  necessary  the  bed  may  be  made  on  solid, 
frozen  ground. 

If  you  are  going  to  make  a  new  frame  pick  out  the  sunni- 
est and  most  sheltered  place  possible  for  it.  A  bed  started 
early  should  be  equipped  with  mats  or  shutters  as  well  as 
glass  sashes,  so  it  may  be  given  extra  protection  on  very 
cold  nights.  Doubleglass  sashes  cost  more,  but  do  not 
require  so  much  protection  and  have  the  great  advantage  of 
keeping  out  the  cold  without  shutting  off  the  light. 

Whether  you  make  the  hot-bed  on  the  ground  or  in  a  pit 
the  vital  point  is  the  heating  material.  Sometimes  frames 
built  directly  against  the  house,  or  near  the  greenhouse  or 
garage,  may  be  heated  by  hot-water  or  steam  pipes  from 
the  near-by  boiler,  or  even  by  warm  air  from  the  cellar. 
In  the  great  majority  of  cases,  however,  manure  must  be 
relied  upon.  To  produce  satisfactory  results  this  must  be 
of  the  right  kind  and  must  be  carefully  handled.  Procure 


FEBRUARY:  SECOND  WEEK  43 

clean,  fairly  fresh  horse  manure,  and  unless  it  has  already  a 
good  quantity  of  fine  bedding  mixed  through  it  get  rotted 
leaves  to  the  bulk  of  half  to  two- thirds  of  the  manure. 
Mix  the  two  thoroughly  to  form  a  compost,  and  tramp  it 
down  as  firmly  as  possible  in  a  compact  heap,  preferably 
under  a  shed  or  cover  of  some  sort. 

In  a  few  days,  when  the  mass  begins  to  steam,  it  should  be 
forked  over  and  made  into  a  new  pile.  Tramp  down  each 
layer  and  build  it  up  compactly,  as  before,  and  if  it  seems  to 
be  drying  out  add  enough  water  to  keep  the  whole  moist, 
but  not  wet.  Remake  the  pile,  if  possible,  on  a  warm  day. 

When  the  compost  is  ready  put  it  in  place  to  a  depth  of 
about  fifteen  to  twenty-four  inches.  Half  a  cord  will  be 


sufficient  for  a  three-sash  frame,  unless  it  must  be  placed 
on  the  frozen  ground.  Then  a  little  more  than  twice  the 
first  quantity  will  be  needed.  It  should  be  spread  out  in  a 
broad,  low  heap,  nine  to  ten  feet  wide,  eighteen  to  twenty- 
four  inches  deep,  extending  a  foot  and  a  half  or  so  beyond 
the  ends  of  the  frame,  and  banked  up  round  the  frame.  In 
making  a  bed  of  this  sort  it  will  be  necessary  to  buy  some 
soil  at  a  florist's  or  market  gardener's.  The  manure  should 
be  tramped  down  thoroughly  and  allowed  to  begin  active 
fermentation  again.  After  a  few  days  the  soil  may  be  put 
on  to  a  depth  of  four  to  six  inches.  Then,  unless  you  are  in 
too  great  a  hurry,  give  a  good  watering  and  leave  the  sashes 
on  a  few  days  to  let  the  soil  warm  up  and  to  give  some  of  the 
weed  seeds  a  chance  to  sprout.  The  soil  will  then  be  in  a 
good  condition  to  mix  with  chip  dirt  or  leaf  mold  for  use  in 
the  seed  flats. 

One  of  the  secrets  of  growing  early  crops  in  the  frames 
successfully  is  to  have  the  soil  rich  in  available  nitrogen. 


44       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Old,  thoroughly  decayed  manure  mixed  thoroughly  with  the 
soil  will  supply  this  and  will  also  help  to  make  the  soil  light 
and  warm.  One  or  two  top-dressings  with  nitrate  of  soda 
after  the  plants  begin  active  growth  will  also  produce  visible 
results.  Plenty  of  water  is  another  essential. 


February:  Third  Week 
PLANS  FOR  THIS  YEAR'S  FLOWER  GARDEN 

If  it  pays  to  plan  the  vegetable  garden  carefully  because 
of  the  greater  efficiency  that  results,  the  careful  planning 
of  the  flower  garden  is  of  no  less  importance.  The  effective- 
ness of  your  flower  garden  will  depend  more  upon  how  you 
arrange  it  than  upon  what  goes  into  it. 

However,  planning  the  flower  garden  is  a  process  just  the 
reverse  of  planning  the  vegetable  garden.  With  the  vege- 
tables your  aim  is  to  get  as  many  as  possible  of  them  into  the 
space  at  your  disposal.  With  the  flowers,  on  the  contrary, 
you  begin  your  plan  by  deciding  definitely  the  result  or  the 
picture  you  wish  to  create,  and  then  select  your  materials 
accordingly.  Don't  say  to  yourself:  "I  am  going  to  have 
two  dozen  pink  geraniums,  three  dozen  pansies,  a  hundred 
asters  and  some  of  those  beautiful  new  begonias  from  the 
florist's;  then  there  will  be  the  castor-bean  plants,  the  pinks 
and  the  new  hollyhocks  and  the  other  things  we  are  starting 
in  the  hot-bed — where  shall  we  put  them?"  Looking  at  it 
the  other  way  round,  say  to  yourself,  for  instance:  "What 
would  be  a  good  thing  to  put  there  beyond  the  end  of  the 
veranda,  where  the  wing  of  the  house  makes  a  tall,  blank 
wall?"  The  answer  may  be  hollyhocks  or  golden  glow 
(rudbeckia),  or  delphinium  or  helianthus,  or  any  of  several 
other  things.  The  point  is  that  you  want  to  be  free  to 
make  your  choice  first,  and  select  the  plants  afterward, 
rather  than  to  get  the  plants  and  fit  them  in  as  best  you 
can. 

Creating  an  Appearance  of  Space 

In  planning  your  flower  beds  you  should  go  a  step  farther. 
Remember  that  just  as  the  flowers  should  be  made  a  subor- 

45 


46 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


dinate  part  of  the  flower  bed  or  border,  so  the  beds,  borders, 
lawns  and  the  other  features  of  the  place  should  each  be 
subordinate  to  the  whole.  Don't  be  afraid  that  this  is  too 
nearly  a  professional  task  for  you  to  accomplish.  You  will 
achieve  more  satisfactory  results  by  working  in  the  right 
direction,  even  if  you  make  many  mistakes,  than  if  you 
work  in  no  direction  at  all.  It  is  almost  always  desirable 
to  create  an  appearance  of  roominess  about  a  small  place. 
One  of  the  most  important  points  to  be  remembered  is  to 
keep  an  open  center,  so  far  as  possible,  by  keeping  tall  things 


In  planning  your  place,  do  not  scatter  shrubs  and  flower  beds  all  over. 
Keep  an  open  stretch  of  lawn. 

back  along  the  boundary  line,  and  also  to  avoid  straight  and 
definite  terminations  of  paths,  roadways  and  vistas,  so  that 
the  suggestion  of  something  beyond  may  be  created  at  every 
point. 

The  materials  available  from  which  you  may  construct 
your  flower  garden  belong  to  three  classes:  Hardy  per- 
ennial plants;  potted  bedding  plants,  which  are  usually 
obtained  from  the  florist  or  may  have  been  started  from 
seed  in  your  frames  or  small  greenhouse;  and  plants  from 


FEBRUARY:  THIRD  WEEK  47 

seed  sown  in  the  open,  either  transplanted  or  left  where 
they  were  started. 

The  potted  plants,  which  are  usually  in  bloom  when  you 
get  them,  give  you  the  biggest  immediate  show  for  your 
money.  But  most  of  them  are  good  for  only  a  single  season, 
so  that  in  the  end  they  are  the  most  expensive  to  buy. 
Hardy  perennials  of  many  good  sorts  cost  from  fifteen  to 
twenty-five  cents  apiece,  and  most  of  them  will  bloom  the 
first  year  if  planted  early  enough  in  spring;  they  will  last 
for  many  years.  Annuals  and  biennials,  and  perennials  that 
are  treated  as  annuals,  started  from  seed,  cost  next  to 
nothing,  and  are  almost  always  satisfactory  if  care  and 
judgment  are  used  in  selecting  varieties  adapted  to  the 
particular  places  in  which  you  wish  to  put  them,  or  com- 
binations in  which  you  wish  to  use  them. 

Flowers  Available  for  Special  Purpose 

The  catalogues  list  hundreds  of  kinds  and  varieties  of 
flowers,  but  very  few  of  the  kinds  that  are  not  well  known 
are  as  good  as  the  popular  favorites  that  everybody  has 
grown  or  seen.  Some  of  the  flowers  to  be  started  are  hardy 
and  others  are  half  hardy  or  tender,  so  it  is  best  to  have  some 
place  arranged  in  which  the  latter  can  be  given  a  little 
higher  temperature. 

When  the  plants  are  up  and  far  enough  along  to  be  trans- 
planted— when  the  second  or  third  true  leaf  begins  to 
show — they  should  be  shifted  to  other  flats  or  to  pots. 
Plants  of  which  a  comparatively  large  number  will  be  re- 
quired, such  as  pansies,  asters  and  sweet  alyssum,  may  be 
grown  in  flats  until  it  is  time  to  set  them  out. 

If  the  seedlings  are  extra  strong  and  well  started,  as  the 
result  of  not  having  been  crowded  in  the  early  stages  of 
growth,  they  may  be  put  at  once  into  small  pots.  These 
things  should  be  given  a  second  shift  and,  if  the  pots  become 
filled  with  roots,  a  third  shift  to  larger  pots  before  being  set 
into  the  garden.  This  is  especially  true  of  salvia  and  other 
tender  plants  that  cannot  be  set  out  until  all  danger  of 


48 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


frost  is  past.  Figure  out  as  closely  as  you  can  the  number 
of  plants  of  each  kind  you  are  going  to  want,  so  that  when 
you  are  transplanting  there  will  not  be  a  surplus  of  things 
for  which  you  will  have  no  use  later. 

A  GOOD  LIST  OF  FLOWERS  FOR  THE  GENERAL  GARDEN 


FLOWER 

DISTANCE 
BETWEEN 
PLANTS, 
INCHES 

HEIGHT, 
INCHES 

COLOR 

IN  BLOOM 

Ageratum             

6-12 

12 

Blue  white 

Tune  to  frost 

Aster 

12—24 

l8-3O 

Various 

July  to  Sept 

Balsam 

15—20 

1  2-1  8 

Calendula  
California  Poppy  
Campanula  

12-18 
6-8 
8-12 

18-24 
I2-IS 
18-36 

Orange,  yellow 
Orange,  yellow 
White  blue  pink 

June  to  frost 
August 
June—  August 

Candytuft   

4-12 

6-18 

White  to  crimson 

June—  Sept 

Cornflower        

8-12 

12—40 

White  blue  lilac 

June—  August 

Cosmos             .           .... 

24 

2-8  ft 

Pink  white  red 

Aug  to  frost 

Dimorphotheca 
(African  Daisy)  
Foxglove  

6-10 
10 

12-15 
12-36 

Pure  white,  yellow 
Orange,  salmon 
Pink,  white 

June  to  frost 
June 

Hollyhock   . 

12-18 

3-7  ft. 

Various 

August-Sept. 

Lobelia         

4-8 

6-18 

Blue  white 

June—  Sept. 

Lupine                

4-8 

12—24 

White  blue,  pink 

May—  June 

Marguerite  Carnation.  .  .  . 

Marigold 

6-12 
6-18 

12-18 

10—36 

Various 
Golden  yellow 

June-Sept. 
Tulv-Seot 

Mignonette   

6 

12-18 

to  orange 
Golden  to  reddish 

Morning  Glory            .... 

4—12 

10—  20  ft. 

yellow 
Various 

July-Sept. 
July  to  frost 

Nasturtium                ...    . 

5-12 

I-S  ft 

Various 

July  to  frost 

Pansy 

6-8 

6 

Various 

May—  June 

Petunia 

8-12 

12—24 

White  to  ma- 

Aug.-Sept. 
July  to  frost 

Phlox  Drummondii  
Poppy  
Ricinus  (Castor-Oil  Bean) 
Salpiglossis              .    . 

8-12 
4 
24-36 
6-12 

12-36 
6-10 
4-7  ft. 
12—24 

genta,  mixed 
Various 
White  to  scarlet 
Foliage 
Various 

July  to  frost 
August-Sept. 
July  to  frost 
July  to  frost 

Salvia 

6-12 

12—36 

Scarlet 

July  to  frost 

Stock 

6—12 

12—24. 

Various 

June—Sept. 

Sweet  Alyssum 

4-8 

8-10 

White  lilac 

May  to  frost 

Sweet  Pea  
Sweet  William  
Verbena 

4-8 
6-12 
12-18 

2-6  ft. 

12-18 
6—  10 

Various 
White,  pink,  red 
Various 

June-Sept. 
July-August 
July  to  frost 

Zinnia  

8-12 

12-24 

Various 

July  to  frost 

February:  Fourth  Week 

MAKING   THE   SOIL   RICH:    MANURES; 
FERTILIZERS;  AND  HUMUS 

A  poor  soil  cannot  support  a  good  garden.  The  founda- 
tion of  the  gardener's  success  must  be  a  rich  soil.  Ignorance 
or  neglect  in  preparing  the  soil  is  more  often  the  cause  of 
failure  in  the  home  garden  than  any  other  one  thing.  To 
the  beginner  the  work  of  getting  ready  to  plant  always 
seems  an  irksome  but  necessary  evil.  But  the  gardener 
who  is  tempted  to  skimp  the  preliminary  part  of  his  work 
should  make  himself  familiar  with  some  of  the  things  that 
influence  plant  growth;  then  he  will  realize  the  importance 
of  giving  his  best  attention  to  this  part  of  his  work. 

Almost  every  gardener  in  these  days  knows  that  his  soil 
must  be  well  supplied  with  plant  foods — nitrogen,  phos- 
phoric acid  and  potash — if  he  is  to  get  good  crops.  But  a 
little  knowledge  of  this  kind,  if  not  a  dangerous  thing,  is  a 
next  to  useless  thing.  The  gardener  who  wants  to  make 
sure  of  good  results  must  take  the  trouble  to  go  deeper. 
Then  he  will  find,  not  only  that  he  must  furnish  plant 
foods  to  his  crops  but  that  they  must  be  in  certain  forms 
called  "available"  and  in  certain  proportions  to  one  an- 
other; that  there  must  be  sufficient  soil  moisture  present 
or  the  richness  of  his  soil  will  count  for  nothing;  and  that 
all  these  things  will  be  affected  directly  or  indirectly  by 
the  physical  condition  of  his  garden  soil  and  the  way  in 
which  he  handles  it. 

"Available"  plant  food  is  plant  food  existing  in  the  soil 
in  such  forms  that  the  plant  roots  are  able  to  take  it  up 
or  absorb  it.  Just  as  raw  beefsteak  or  uncooked  beans 
have  to  undergo  certain  changes  before  they  are  available 
as  human  food,  so  most  of  the  forms  of  nitrogen,  phosphoric 

49 


50       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

acid  and  potash  existing  in  the  soil,  and  many  of  those 
added  to  it  in  manures  or  fertilizers,  have  to  undergo  cer- 
tain changes,  which  take  place  in  the  soil,  before  plants 
can  use  them.  Certain  degrees  of  heat,  of  moisture  and  of 
air  make  these  changes. 

All  plants  require  for  their  sustenance  a  number  of 
different  elements  in  the  soil.  Of  these  the  only  ones  that 
are  likely  to  become  deficient  are  the  three  already  men- 
tioned— nitrogen,  phosphoric  acid  and  potash.  The  worst 
of  it  is  that  if  any  one  of  these  begins  to  get  used  up  the 
plant  will  stop  growth  instead  of  using  more  of  the  other 
things.  The  kind  of  plant  food  that  has  become  exhausted 
is  termed  the  "  limiting  factor." 

A  "  complete  fertilizer"  is  one  that  contains  all  three  of 
the  plant  foods  mentioned,  though  they  may  not  be  in  the 
proportions  required.  As  a  matter  of  fact  most  of  the  com- 
plete ready-mixed  fertilizers  to  be  bought,  and  especially 
the  cheaper  grades,  do  not  contain  the  plant  foods  in  the 
best  proportions  for  general  garden  use.  A  good  general 
garden  fertilizer  contains  four  per  cent  of  nitrogen,  eight 
per  cent  of  available  phosphoric  acid  and  ten  per  cent  of 
potash.  Potash  is  temporarily  scarce  at  the  present  time, 
as  no  potash  salts  can  be  imported  from  Germany,  and 
the  percentage  of  potash  in  all  fertilizers  is  being  cut  down. 

Both  Water  and  Air  Needed  in  the  Soil 

After  a  soil  has  been  well  supplied  with  plant  foods  in 
available  forms  the  plants  cannot  grow  unless  they  can 
absorb  the  various  elements  in  the  form  of  solutions.  That 
means  that  a  certain  amount  of  moisture  must  be  present 
in  the  soil.  Conditions  are  most  favorable  to  growth  when 
the  soil  is  about  half  saturated.  Air  must  be  present  as 
well  as  moisture.  If  the  soil  is  wet  the  air  is  excluded.  If 
it  is  dry  the  plants  cannot  get  hold  of  the  food  lying  about 
them. 

The  practical  problem  remains  of  just  how  to  make  the 
garden  properly  rich.  Manures  vary  so  much  that  they 


FEBRUARY:  FOURTH  WEEK  51 

may  be  worth  several  dollars  a  load  or  not  worth  the  haul- 
ing. Fertilizers  may  or  may  not  be  of  benefit  in  any  par- 
ticular case.  What  would  be  thorough  preparation  of  the 
soil  in  one  garden  would  be  just  the  wrong  thing  in  another. 

Following  are  the  materials  available  for  enriching  the 
small  garden,  with  a  few  statements  as  to  comparative 
advantages  and  disadvantages  of  each.  The  gardener 
should  remember,  however,  that  the  greater  the  variety 
he  can  use,  as  a  general  thing,  the  better. 

Whenever  it  can  be  obtained  at  a  reasonable  price,  good, 
well-rotted  stable  manure  makes  the  best  foundation  for 
the  garden.  The  great  value  of  manure  as  a  fertilizer  lies 
in  the  fact  that  it  not  only  adds  plant  food  to  the  soil,  but 
also  contains  vegetable  matter  or  humus,  which  is  neces- 
sary to  keep  the  soil  in  good  physical  condition — loose  and 
crumbly — so  that  it  is  capable  of  absorbing  and  holding 
the  greatest  possible  amount  of  water  without  becoming 
sticky  and  lumpy  and  excluding  air.  It  also  increases 
the  action  of  the  various  bacteria  that  help  in  the  processes 
of  changing  unavailable  to  available  plant  food,  and,  in 
the  case  of  such  crops  as  beans  and  peas,  of  gathering 
nitrogen  from  the  air.  Good  manure  should  be  so  well 
rotted  that  it  is  fine  and  crumbly,  but  not  in  lumps.  It 
should  be  evenly  moist  all  through,  neither  sopping  wet  nor 
so  dry  as  to  be  fluffy.  If  you  cannot  obtain  manure  that 
is  already  thoroughly  rotted  place  what  you  do  get  in  a 
compact  pile  and  tramp  each  layer  down  hard.  In  this  way 
fermentation  may  be  hastened  and  the  manure  rotted 
,  thoroughly  in  quite  a  short  time.  Manure  that  is  ferment- 
ing or  fermented  should  always  be  kept  in  a  well-packed 
pile  until  you  are  ready  to  fork  it  into  the  ground.  If  it  is 
spread  out,  or  left  loose,  it  loses  a  great  deal  of  its  value. 

An  excellent  plan  is  to  place  in  a  hole  any  manure  that 
you  do  not  need  for  immediate  use.  To  this  should  be 
added,  from  time  to  time,  any  house  or  garden  refuse  that 
will  rot — various  vegetable  trimmings,  old  sods,  weeds  that 
have  not  gone  to  seed,  or  anything  of  similar  nature.  This 
may  be  kept  in  much  the  same  way  as  a  smoldering  fire, 


52       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

and  the  fermentation  never  allowed  to  stop.  In  using  com- 
post from  this  heap  enough  should  always  be  left,  if  possible, 
to  keep  it  "going." 

Manure  is  good  for  both  light  and  heavy  soils  and  for 
most  crops.  It  is  rich  in  nitrogen,  but  phosphoric  acid  and 
potash  should  be  added  from  other  sources.  Get  it  well 
mixed  under  the  soil  of  the  garden,  or  it  will  interfere 
throughout  the  season  with  the  various  other  operations 
of  planting  and  cultivating.  Where  it  is  impossible  to 
obtain  manure,  commercial  humus  may  be  used,  in  con- 
nection with  fertilizers,  to  maintain  the  humus  content  in 
the  soil. 

How  to  Buy  Fertilizers 

Actual  plant  foods  may  be  bought  more  cheaply  in  com- 
mercial fertilizers  than  in  manure.  But  these  have  no  prac- 
tical effect  upon  the  physical  condition  of  the  soil  and  add 
no  humus.  They  may  be  classified  in  three  separate  groups, 
which  the  gardener  should  learn  to  distinguish  and  to  use 
according  to  his  need:  First,  ready-mixed  complete  fer- 
tilizers; second,  the  raw  materials  or  original  sources  of 
plant  food,  which  are  used  largely  for  making  the  mixed 
goods;  and  third,  indirect  fertilizers  or  soil  improvers  or 
amendments,  such  as  lime  and  gypsum.  All  these  things 
vary  greatly  both  as  to  amount  of  plant  food  contained  and 
as  to  availability  of  that  plant  food.  Most  gardeners  buy 
the  ready-mixed  complete  fertilizers,  getting  a  bag,  or 
several  bags,  as  may  be  required  by  the  size  of  the  garden. 
This  is  the  easiest  way,  but  it  is  also  the  most  expensive. 
Whether  it  will  pay  you  to  get  your  fertilizers  in  that  form 
or  to  get  the  materials  and  mix  up  your  own  will  depend 
upon  how  much  time  you  may  have  and  how  much  fer- 
tilizer you  use.  The  saving,  if  you  use  the  latter  method, 
will  amount  to  thirty  to  fifty  cents  a  hundred-pound  bag. 

If  you  buy  the  ready-mixed  sort,  however,  remember  the 
higher  the  price  a  ton,  as  a  general  rule,  the  less  the  cost  of 
the  actual  plant  food.  You  can  see,  if  you  stop  to  think  a 
minute,  that  it  is  cheaper  to  buy  two  hundred  pounds 


FEBRUARY:  FOURTH  WEEK  S3 

of  a  4-8-10  fertilizer  at  $2  a  hundred  than  it  is  to  buy  four 
hundred  pounds  of  a  2-4-5  brand  at  $1.60  a  hundred.  Not 
only  would  the  former  lot,  costing  $4,  contain  as  much 
actual  plant  food  as  the  latter,  costing  $6.40,  but  it  would 
be  much  easier  to  move  it  round  and  put  it  on  your  garden, 
and  better  materials  would  have  been  used  in  making  it. 

Saving  in  Home-Mixed  Fertilizers 

Making  your  own  fertilizer  is  not  a  difficult  task.  Ni- 
trate of  soda,  dried  blood,  tankage  and  cottonseed  meal 
are  all  used  as  sources  of  nitrogen.  Phosphoric  acid  may 
be  had  in  high  grade  in  acid  phosphate.  Potash  may  be 
had  in  muriate  or  sulphate  of  potash.  All  these  things  are 
standard  commercial  products,  with  uniform  percentages 
of  plant  foods  contained,  and  it  is  therefore  not  difficult  to 
figure  out  any  formula  you  may  desire  to  use.  A  mixture 
of  nitrate  of  soda,  muriate  of  potash,  high-grade  tankage 
and  high-grade  acid  phosphate,  in  the  proportions  of  thirty, 
forty,  fifty  and  seventy  pounds  respectively,  makes  a  high- 
grade  complete  fertilizer  with  an  analysis  approximately  of 
four  per  cent  nitrogen,  eight  per  cent  available  phosphoric 
acid,  ten  per  cent  potash.  Twenty  pounds  of  nitrate  of 
soda,  thirty  pounds  of  Peruvian  guano,  forty  pounds  of 
muriate  or  sulphate  potash  and  eighty  pounds  of  acid  phos- 
phate will  give  about  the  same  formula. 

The  operation  of  mixing  the  materials  together  is  not  a 
difficult  one.  Weigh  out,  or  estimate  carefully,  which  will 
answer  practical  purposes,  the  several  materials;  break  up 
any  lumps  with  a  mallet  or  the  back  of  a  shovel;  spread  the 
several  layers  on  top  of  one  another  on  a  tight  floor  or  in  a 
large  shallow  box;  mix  thoroughly  with  a  square  shovel  or  a 
hoe;  and  sift  through  an  ordinary  coal-ash  sifter  or  a  small 
screen.  If  you  have  several  hundred  pounds  of  the  mixture 
it  may  be  stored  conveniently  in  cracker  boxes,  which  hold  a 
hundred  pounds  each  when  not  quite  level  full.  Keep  in  a 
dry  place. 

When  buying  your  fertilizers  buy  enough  bone  flour  and 


54       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

nitrate  of  soda,  in  addition  to  what  you  will  want  to  use  in 
preparing  your  garden,  so  that  you  can  use  them  as  a  top 
dressing  throughout  the  season.  Fifty  or  seventy-five 
pounds  of  bone  flour  and  twenty-five  or  fifty  pounds  of 
nitrate  of  soda  will  be  enough  for  the  small  garden.  They 
are  equally  useful  for  flowers,  lawns  and  shrubs,  and  for 
small  fruits  and  vegetables. 

Fertilizers  should  be  applied  broadcast  after  the  ground 
has  been  plowed  or  spaded  and  then  thoroughly  harrowed 
or  raked  in.  From  100  to  250  pounds  to  a  space  of  fifty 
by  one  hundred  feet  should  add  plenty  of  plant  food  to 
your  garden.  If  manure  is  used,  or  the  ground  is  in  good 
condition,  less  may  be  used. 

Most  soils,  whether  light  or  heavy,  that  have  been  under 
cultivation  for  some  time  need  lime.  If  wild  sorrel  grows 
freely  about  your  garden  you  need  lime.  Or  you  can  get  a 
little  blue  litmus  paper  at  the  drug  store,  moisten  it,  and 
insert  it  in  a  slit  in  your  garden  soil;  if  it  changes  to  pink 
or  red  use  lime  freely.  This  may  be  put  on  two  or  three 
times  as  thick  as  you  would  put  fertilizers. 

The  best  form  of  lime  to  use,  especially  at  this  time  of 
the  year,  is  ground,  raw  limestone,  which  is  not  caustic  in 
its  action.  This  should,  however,  be  so  fine  that  much  of  it 
is  like  flour.  It  should  not  cost  you  more  than  fifty  or  sixty 
cents  a  hundred  pounds.  Put  the  lime  on  as  early  in  spring 
as  possible. 


March -.First  Week 

BUSH  AND  TREE  FRUITS  FOR  THE  SMALL  PLACE; 
QUANTITIES  NEEDED;  GOOD  VARIETIES 

No  garden  is  complete  without  fruit — not  only  the  small 
fruits  but,  unless  it  is  a  very  small  garden  indeed,  some  of 
the  pome  and  stone  fruits,  such  as  apples,  pears,  peaches, 
cherries  and  plums.  Sometimes  it  is  argued  that  the  latter 
take  too  much  room.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  blackberries  and 
raspberries  take  more  space  in  proportion  to  what  one  gets 
from  them  than  need  be  given  to  dwarf  or  trained  fruit 
trees. 

Most  of  the  small  fruits  will  survive  any  adverse  condi- 
tions they  are  likely  to  encounter.  In  fact,  many  gardeners 
would  obtain  better  results  if  the  bushes  were  not  so  hardy. 
A  currant  bush  set  out  by  the  garden  fence,  where  it  will 
survive  for  years  even  if  it  is  not  cared  for,  is  more  likely  to 
be  neglected  than  the  newly  set  strawberry  patch,  which 
must  be  tended  for  a  season  at  least  if  one  expects  to  get  any 
crop  from  it.  It  is  the  same  principle  that  prompts  a  gar- 
dener to  coddle  and  nurse  through  the  winter  a  tender  tea 
rose,  while  an  equally  beautiful  but  perfectly  hardy  rose 
will  be  stuck  up  against  the  house  wall  and  left  without  so 
much  care  as  spring  pruning. 

Aside  from  the  fascination  of  growing  it,  there  are  prac- 
tical reasons  why  fruit  should  be  given  a  place  in  every 
garden.  Most  fruits,  being  highly  perishable  products, 
cost  the  consumer  a  very  high  figure  in  proportion  to  the 
expense  of  growing  them.  Not  only  can  he  produce  them 
for  himself  a  great  deal  cheaper  than  he  can  buy  them,  but 
the  fruit  will  be  of  very  much  better  quality.  Fruits  dete- 
riorate after  picking  even  more  quickly  than  most  vegeta- 
bles. There  is  very  little  danger  of  overproduction.  Prac- 

55 


56       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

tically  everything  in  the  fruit  line  can  be  preserved  to  ad- 
vantage. 

Unlike  the  vegetable  garden  the  fruit  garden  need  not 
have  a  space  of  considerable  size  devoted  exclusively  to  it. 
The  trees  may  be  put  round  the  edges  of  the  place,  and  a 
dozen  or  so  cane  fruits  may  be  placed  along  a  wall  or 
in  a  corner.  Most  of  the  fruits  on  a  very  small  place 
may  be  made  to  fit  in  with  the  general  decorative  scheme; 
many  of  them  in  bloom  are  fully  as  beautiful  as  flowering 
shrubs. 

A  variety  of  material  is  available  for  the  fruit  garden. 
Strawberries,  raspberries,  blackberries,  dewberries,  logan- 
berries, currants,  gooseberries  and  grapes  make  up  what  are 
usually  known  as  the  small  fruits.  Apples,  plums,  peaches, 
cherries  and  pears  may  be  had  either  in  the  regular  standard 
types  or,  if  space  is  limited,  on  dwarf  stocks  which,  with 
proper  care,  give  miniature-sized  trees  with  full-sized  fruit. 
Of  most  of  these  things  you  will  want  two  or  more  varieties 
to  assure  a  succession,  but  the  number  of  each  required, 
even  for  a  fair-sized  garden,  will  be  very  small. 

Plant  the  Fruits  by  Proxy 

The  ideal  way  not  to  plan  the  fruit  garden  k  the  way  it  is 
frequently  done.  The  gardener,  having  decided  that  he 
really  must  have  some  fruits  in  his  garden,  does  nothing 
more  about  it  until  the  nursery  agent  gets  round  and  per- 
suades him  that  he  needs  a  quarter  of  a  dozen,  half  a  dozen, 
or  a  couple  of  dozen  of  this,  that  and  the  other  thing  which 
will  be  shipped  in  plenty  of  time  for  planting.  Some  agents 
have  first-class  stock  for  sale.  But  there  is  a  much  better 
way  of  planning  your  fruit  garden. 

Take  a  number  of  labels,  short  stakes,  or  pieces  of  shingle 
and  figure  out  carefully  what  you  want  to  have,  so  far  as 
the  room  at  your  disposal  will  allow.  The  bed  for  straw- 
berries or  cane  fruits  may  be  staked  off.  The  bush  fruits 
and  fruit  trees  may  be  indicated  by  stakes,  each  with  a 
name  written  on  it.  After  you  have  thus  planted  your 


MARCH:  FIRST  WEEK  57 

garden  by  proxy,  you  can  make  up  a  thoroughly  satisfactory 
garden  order  that  will  just  fit  your  place. 

Here  are  the  distances  to  allow  for  the  different  kinds  of 
fruits:  Strawberries,  one  foot  by  one  foot  or  two  feet,  each 
way;  in  rows  two  feet  apart;  in  beds  of  three  or  four  rows, 
the  plants  a  foot  apart  each  way,  with  two-foot  alleys  be- 
tween if  the  hill  system  is  to  be  used,  or  a  foot  apart  in  rows 
three  feet  apart  if  you  expect  to  grow  them  in  matted  rows. 
Raspberries,  three  by  six  feet.  Blackberries  and  dewberries, 
five  by  seven  feet.  Currants,  four  to  five  feet  apart.  Goose- 
berries, five  to  seven  feet.  Grapes,  six  to  eight  feet. 

A  standard  apple  tree,  when  grown,  will  occupy  a  space 
some  thirty  to  forty  feet  in  diameter.  But  apples  grafted 
on  doucin  stock  may  be  set  as  close  as  sixteen  to  twenty  feet, 
and  on  paradise  stock,  which  is  still  smaller,  as  close  as  eight 
to  ten  feet.  Plums,  cherries,  pears,  quinces,  and  dwarf  pears 
on  quince  stock  may  be  put  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  apart, 
depending  largely  upon  the  varieties  and  the  way  they  are 
pruned. 

Practically  all  the  fruits  will  do  well  in  any  good  garden 
soil,  but  they  have  some  preferences.  The  cane  fruits,  for 
instance,  are  partial  to  rather  clayey  soil,  and,  if  there  is 
any  choice,  give  the  drier  place  to  the  strawberries,  as  they 
suffer  less  from  insufficient  moisture  than  do  the  raspberries 
and  blackcaps.  Currants  and  gooseberries  must  have  plenty 
of  moisture  to  do  well.  If  they  cannot  be  given  a  really 
moist  soil  they  are  frequently  benefited  by  mulching  before 
the  advent  of  dry  weather.  Strawberries  will  do  well  even 
on  light,  sandy  soil  provided  they  do  not  suffer  from  drought. 

Most  of  the  tree  fruits  prefer  a  calcareous  soil,  but  one 
and  all  must  have  good  drainage.  This  is  important  for  the 
vegetable  garden,  but  it  is  doubly  important  for  any  plants 
that  stay  in  the  ground  over  winter,  as  the  fruits  do.  Good 
fruit  and  wet  feet  are  not  to  be  found  together  on  the  same 
bush,  tree  or  vine.  In  planning  a  garden  do  not  lose  sight 
of  the  fact  that  though  all  these  things  are  small  when  you 
set  them  out,  some  of  them  will  require  a  great  deal  of  room, 
not  only  horizontally  but  vertically  as  well,  when  they  are 


58       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

fully  grown.  Place  them  so  that  they  will  not  interfere,  or 
will  interfere  as  little  as  possible,  with  the  care  and  cultiva- 
tion of  your  vegetable  garden  or  flower  garden,  particularly 
in  casting  too  great  a  shade  where  it  is  not  desired.  The 
smaller  sorts  may  often  be  tucked  in  between  the  larger  ones. 
Peaches,  for  instance,  are  often  planted  between  apple  trees, 
as  they  are  comparatively  short  lived. 

Satisfactory  Fruit  Varieties 

Having  decided  how  many  of  each  of  the  various  things 
you  will  require,  the  next  step  is  to  select  the  varieties. 
Very  often  the  gardener  who  becomes  enthusiastic  about  one 
particular  good  thing  makes  the  mistake  of  getting  all  of  that 
sort.  Early  and  late  sorts,  to  afford  a  succession,  should  be 
chosen.  Some  of  the  best  varieties  of  the  different  things 
follow: 

STRAWBERRIES.  Early  Ozark,  a  fine  new  early;  Michel's 
Early,  a  standard  sort  but  not  of  the  best  quality;  Early 
Jersey  Giant;  second  early — Sample  and  Glen  Mary; 
medium  to  late — Marshall,  Brandywine,  Nick  Ohmer; 
late — Lovett,  Fendall,  and  Chesapeake. 

RASPBERRIES.  The  King,  extra  early;  Cuthbert,  Colum- 
bian, Reliance,  all  good  sorts;  Cardinal  and  St.  Regis  Ever- 
bearing, excellent  newer  varieties — the  latter,  after  the  reg- 
ular crop,  fruits  again  at  the  end  of  the  season.  The  red 
sorts  are  generally  preferred,  but  at  least  one  of  the  black- 
caps, of  which  Palmer,  very  early,  Gregg,  and  Cumberland, 
are  all  good  varieties,  should  be  included.  The  standard 
yellow  is  Golden  Queen. 

BLACKBERRIES.  Mercereau  is  an  extra-fine  new  early,  and 
Early  Harvest  and  Early  King  are  both  good-bearing  sorts. 
Wilson,  Jr.,  Snyder,  Erie  and  Kitta tinny  are  all  good. 

CURRANTS.  Fay's  Prolific  and  Perfection  are  two  excel- 
lent red  sorts.  White  Grape  and  Lee's  Prolific,  black,  are 
very  good  varieties  that  are  favored  by  many  and  are  ex- 
cellent for  cooking  and  preserves. 

DEWBERRIES  are  quite  similar  to  raspberries  but  are  a 


MARCH:  FIRST  WEEK 


59 


little  earlier  in  ripening.  Premo  is  a  new  early  sort,  and 
Lucretia  is  the  largest  and  sweetest. 

GOOSEBERRIES.  These  are  of  two  distinct  types,  the  na- 
tive and  the  English  sorts.  Of  the  former  Downing  and 
Houghton's  Seedling  are  perhaps  two  of  the  best.  Of  the 
English  sorts  Industry  is  perhaps  the  best  suited  to  our 
climate.  Golden  Prolific  and  the  Pearl,  pale  green,  are  fine 
for  eating  raw. 

GRAPES.  These  should  be  selected  for  color  and  season. 
Among  the  best  of  the  black  are  Campbell's  Early,  Moore's 
Early,  and  Worden,  which  is  extra  large  and  fine.  Concord, 
Wilder  and  Eaton  are  good  medium-to-late  black  sorts.  Of 
the  red,  Brighton  is  early,  Catawba  medium;  Delaware  and 
lona  late.  Of  the  white,  Moore's  Diamond  and  Green 
Mountain  are  good  early  sorts,  and  Niagara,  Empire  State, 
and  Pocklington  are  medium  to  late.  The  latter  is  really  a 
pale  golden  yellow  instead  of  white;  it  is  extra  large  and 
juicy  and  one  of  the  most  delicious  of  all  grapes. 

An  order  of  small  fruits  for  an  average-sized  garden  might 
contain  the  following: 


Strawberry. 
Raspberry . 


Blackberry . 
Dewberry . 

Currant . . 


Gooseberry, 


Grape. 


VARIETY  NUMBER 

f  Early  Ozark 100 

<  Marshall,  midseason 100 

Lovett,  late 100 

The  King,  red,  early 6 

Cardinal,  red,  late , 6 

Cuthbert,  crimson 6 

Munger,  black 6 

Mercereau,  early 6 

Erie,  main 6 

Premo,  early 6 

Lucretia 3 

Perfection,  red 8 

Lee's  Prolific,  black 2 

White  Grape 2 

Downing,  pale  green i 

Red  Jacket,  red i 

Industry,  red 2 

Moore's  Early,  black 1 

Concord,  black i 

Green  Mountain,  early  white I 

Delaware,  red I 

Catawba,  dusky  red i 

,  Pocklington,  golden i 


60       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

A  few  of  the  best  standard  varieties  of  the  tree  fruits  are 
mentioned  below,  but  if  you  intend  to  plant  any  number 
you  will  do  well  to  get  the  advice  of  your  state  experiment 
station  as  to  varieties  best  adapted  to  your  particular 
locality. 

APPLES.  Summer:  Early  Harvest,  Red  Astrachan.  Au- 
tumn: Gravenstein,  Mclntosh  Red,  Porter.  Late  autumn: 
Snow,  Hubbardston,  Pound  Sweet,  Wealthy.  Winter: 
Spitzenberg,  Delicious,  Winesap,  Jonathan,  Baldwin,  Rox- 
bury  Russet. 

PEARS.  Among  the  best  of  the  pears  are  Wilder,  Clapp 
Favorite,  Bartlett,  Seckel,  Winter  Nelis. 

PEACHES.  Greensboro  and  Mayflower  are  good  extra 
early  sorts,  and  Champion,  Elberta,  Ray  and  Late  Crawford 
are  standard  medium-to-late  varieties. 

PLUMS.  Of  the  native  sorts,  Milton,  Early,  Wildgoose, 
Whitaker  and  Wayland,  late,  are  good.  Bradshaw,  Reine 
Claude  and  Damson  are  good  European  sorts.  Of  the  Jap- 
anese plums,  Abundance,  Burbank  and  Wickson  are  all  very 
fine.  The  Japanese  plums,  though  giving  quicker  and 
better  results  at  first,  are  likely  to  be  much  shorter  lived 
than  the  native  of  European  sorts. 

CHERRIES.  There  are  two  classes,  sweet  and  sour,  the 
latter  being  somewhat  hardier,  especially  in  the  North.  Of 
the  sweet,  Black  Eagle,  Black  Tartarian,  Windsor,  Governor 
Wood,  and  Yellow  Spanish  are  among  the  best.  Of  the  sour, 
Early  Richmond,  Montmorency  and  English  Morello  will 
give  a  succession  of  fruit. 

Buying  Fruit  Trees  and  Plants 

In  buying  fruits  for  the  home  garden,  where  quick  returns 
are  appreciated  and  only  a  comparatively  small  number  of 
trees  will  be  wanted,  it  will  pay  to  get  first-quality  stock. 
And  you  should  get  it  from  the  most  reliable  source  you 
know  of. 

Before  the  frost  is  all  out  of  the  ground  in  the  shady  spots, 
the  impatient  gardener  whose  frames  are  already  getting 


MARCH:  FIRST  WEEK 


61 


overcrowded  with  plants  will  be  trying  the  soil  with  his 
spade  or  digging  fork.  How  soon  should  the  ground  be 
worked?  The  answer  cannot  be  given  by  the  calendar.  It 
depends  entirely  upon  the  season  and  the  character  of  the 
soil  to  be  used. 

Some  soils  can  be  dug  safely  and  planted  before  the  frost 
is  all  out;  others  must  wait  till  long  afterward.  After  thaw- 
ing, the  ground  must  undergo  a  drying-out  process  to  some 
extent  before  it  should  be  handled.  If  one  attempts  to  plow 
it  before  it  is  in  the  proper  condition  injury  that  will  last  for 


If  your  garden  is  small,  make  the  end  fence  movable  to  facilitate 
plowing  and  harrowing. 

a  number  of  years  may  be  done.  The  safest  rule  is  "when 
the  soil  is  dry  enough  to  crumble." 

Light,  sandy  soils,  especially  when  located  on  a  slope 
where  heavy  rains  have  a  chance  to  drain  off,  may  be  planted 
to  such  hardy  things  as  peas  or  sweet  peas  as  soon  as  it  is 
possible  to  get  a  few  inches  of  the  surface  into  condition. 
Heavy  soils,  or  soils  lying  level  with  hard  subsoils,  should 
not  be  touched  until  they  are  dry  enough  to  crumble  away 
from  the  plow. 

When  it  is  possible  deep  plowing  is  almost  always  more 
satisfactory  than  working  the  soil  by  hand.  Often  in  a  small 
garden  the  fence  at  the  ends  can  be  made  removable  so  a 
horse  can  get  about.  Heavy  galvanized  wire  may  be  used 
for  this  fence,  with  either  square  or  round  posts  and  square 
wooden  boxes  or  drain  tiles  as  post  holes. 


March:  Second  Week 

GROWING  STRONG  PLANTS  FOR  VEGETABLE 
AND  FLOWER  GARDENS 

The  success  of  the  early  vegetable  garden  and  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  flower  garden  throughout  the  season  will 
depend  very  largely  upon  the  quality  of  the  plants  you  have 
ready  to  set  out.  Good  plants  do  not  make  success  certain, 
but  they  make  it  very  easy.  Poor  plants  are  always  a  great 
handicap  and  usually  result  in  failure. 

Most  people  judge  a  plant's  value  by  its  size.  This  is  a 
point  to  be  considered,  but  it  is  by  no  means  the  most 
important  one.  A  plant  in  healthy  growing  condition  will 
soon  catch  up  to  and  pass  a  plant  originally  two  or  three 
times  its  size  but  in  poor  condition.  "  Good  growing  condi- 
tion" is  a  state  rather  difficult  to  describe  in  words,  but  it 
is  one  that  anyone  who  handles  many  plants  quickly  comes 
to  recognize.  One  of  the  indications  is  color,  most  plants 
being  of  a  dark,  healthy-looking  green.  Another  is  firm, 
compact,  sturdy  growth  and  general  " perky"  appearance. 

If  your  plants  look  pale  and  washed  out;  if  they  have 
brown  leaves  or  are  spotted;  if  they  grow  tall  and  lanky; 
if  they  incline  to  droop  and  drop  their  leaves,  it  is  a  pretty 
sure  sign  that  something  is  radically  wrong  and  you  should 
find  the  trouble.  It  may  be  bad  air,  or  starvation,  or  too 
much  or  too  little  water,  or  too  high  or  too  low  temperature, 
or  insects  or  disease  of  one  kind  or  another.  Whatever  it  is, 
don't  let  it  go  in  the  hope  of  having  the  plant  get  over  it  and 
come  out  all  right.  Unless  you  remedy  the  adverse  condi- 
tion immediately  your  plant  is  pretty  certain  to  come  out 
all  wrong. 

There  is  another  condition,  not  so  easily  discerned,  that 
makes  plants  less  desirable  for  setting  out — a  general 

62 


MARCH:  SECOND  WEEK  63 

hardening  of  the  stem  and  roots,  which  may  result  from 
checking  the  growth  by  giving  too  little  water,  too  low 
temperature  or  too  little  room.  This  puts  the  plants  in  a 
semidormant  condition  from  which  it  takes  them  some 
time  to  recover,  even  after  they  are  placed  in  a  more  favor- 
able environment.  The  growing  parts  of  the  plant,  both 
above  and  below  ground,  should  be  firm,  but  juicy  and 
rather  brittle.  When  they  become  tough  and  wiry  the 
development  of  new  plant  tissue  is  checked. 

Factors  That  Affect  Growth 

Various  factors  influencing  the  growth  of  plants — food, 
water,  air,  light,  heat  and  protection  from  insects  and  dis- 
ease— are  all,  in  the  case  of  plants  being  started  early  in  the 
greenhouse  or  hot-bed,  pretty  much  under  the  grower's 
control.  This  is  at  the  same  time  an  advantage  and  a  dis- 
advantage, for  while  he  is  independent  of  the  vagaries  of 
temperature  and  insufficient  rainfall,  Nature  cannot  help 
him  if  he  forgets  to  attend  to  anything  himself.  Anyone 
who  expects  to  grow  plants  of  prime  quality  should  make 
himself  familiar  with  each  of  these  things  that  affect  growth: 

FOOD.  For  plants  started  early,  when  rapid  but  sturdy 
development  is  wanted,  food  should  be  given  in  highly 
available  forms  but  in  a  balanced  ration.  Too  much  nitro- 
gen is  likely  to  result  in  oversucculent  or  flabby  growth. 
Soil  for  transplanting  or  potting  up  should  be  much  richer 
than  that  for  seedling  plants.  Nothing  is  better  than  the  old 
stand-by,  well-rotted  manure,  but  it  should  be  particularly 
well  rotted  and  also  finely  pulverized. 

If  fine  enough  and  dry  enough  the  manure  may  be  mixed 
with  the  soil,  but  often  it  is  more  convenient  to  put  a  layer 
of  manure  in  the  bottom  of  the  flat  or  pot  and  cover  this 
with  the  soil  in  which  the  plant  is  to  be  set.  If  the  manure 
to  be  used  in  the  bottom  of  flats  is  left  in  a  lumpy  condition 
the  plants  may  grow  as  well,  but  in  taking  them  out  the 
roots  will  be  damaged  much  more  than  if  the  manure  had 
been  run  through  a  sieve.  When  stable  manure  cannot  be 


64       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

obtained  commercial  horse  or  cattle  manure  may  be  used. 
Remember,  however,  that  these  are  dried  and  concentrated, 
and  do  not  use  too  much. 

For  most  purposes,  bone  flour,  if  no  manure  is  available, 
will  give  very  satisfactory  results.  Peruvian  guano,  if  the 
genuine  article  can  be  obtained,  is  one  of  the  best  materials, 
being  not  only  rich  in  organic  nitrogen  but  having  also 
generous  amounts  of  available  phosphoric  acid  and  potash. 
In  using  bone  flour  or  dried  blood  or  tankage  it  is  desirable 
to  mix  wood  ashes  with  the  soil.  In  fact  wood  ashes  may 
almost  always  be  used  to  advantage  in  preparing  soil  for  the 
growing  of  plants,  as  the  potash  they  contain  is  valuable  and 
the  lime  and  charcoal  help  to  keep  the  soil  sweet. 

In  addition  to  being  well  enriched,  the  soil  should  contain 
plenty  of  humus  and,  if  necessary,  should  have  enough  sand 
added  to  be  friable.  Soil  enriched  as  suggested  will  usually 
carry  the  plants  through  until  time  to  set  them  out,  but  if 
at  any  time  they  seem  to  be  holding  back  without  apparent 
reason  a  watering  with  liquid  manure  or  with  liquid  nitrate 
of  soda,  either  of  which  can  be  applied  with  a  watering  can, 
will  result  in  a  quick  and  marked  improvement  if  the  trouble 
was  lack  of  available  nitrogen. 

When  to  Water 

WATER.  Unfortunately  circumstances  are  likely  to 
tempt  the  gardener  to  give  too  much  water  at  first,  and  too 
little  later  on  when  the  actual  needs  of  the  plant  are  pre- 
cisely the  opposite.  When  the  gardener's  early  spring 
enthusiasm  must  be  confined  to  the  few  pots  and  flats  of 
plants  in  his  greenhouse  or  hot-bed  it  is  a  very  easy  matter 
for  him  to  be  overzealous  with  the  watering  can,  though 
the  plants  really  need  little  moisture;  later,  when  rapid 
growth,  rapid  evaporation  and  a  high  temperature  cause 
them  to  require  almost  as  much  water  as  they  can  get,  the 
gardener  is  busy  outdoors  with  other  things  and  is  likely  to 
forget  the  regular  time  for  watering  his  seedlings.  The 
result  is  that  when  he  does  happen  to  notice  them  they  are 


MARCH:  SECOND  WEEK  65 

badly  wilted  and  the  soil  has  become  dust  dry  or  baked  into 
a  hard  cake. 

Every  effort  should  be  made  to  keep  the  soil  in  either 
flats  or  pots  in  as  even  a  state  of  moisture  as  possible. 
Extremes  injure  the  plants'  growth,  and  after  the  soil  dries 
and  parts  from  the  edge  of  the  box  or  pot  it  is  exceedingly 
difficult  to  get  it  moist  clear  through  again.  If  your  plants 
do  get  dried  in  this  way  let  them  get  a  thorough  saturation 
by  soaking  up  water  from  below  in  a  pan  or  tub.  Or  apply 
a  little  water  at  a  time  at  intervals  of  half  an  hour  or  so 
until  the  soil  is  again  in  good  condition. 

Early  in  the  season,  when  the  soil  does  not  dry  out  so 
quickly  and  there  is  more  danger  of  overwatering  than  of 
underwatering,  water  the  plants  early  in  the  morning  on 
bright  days  so  the  foliage  can  be  dried  off  before  night. 
Later,  when  it  is  difficult  to  keep  the  soil  wet  enough,  water 
late  in  the  afternoon. 

It  is  important,  whenever  it  is  possible,  that  the  air  as 
as  well  as  the  soil  be  kept  reasonably  moist.  In  the  green- 
house this  can  be  accomplished  by  an  occasional  sprinkling 
of  walks  and  benches.  In  the  hot-bed  or  cold-frame,  where 
outside  air  has  freer  access,  there  is  not  likely  to  be  trouble 
from  overdry  air. 

As  to  how  often  to  water  there  can  be  no  special  rule  of 
thumb;  it  will  depend  upon  the  condition  of  the  soil,  which 
will  begin  to  get  light  colored  and  dry  on  top  as  the  moisture 
content  gets  too  low.  When  this  is  the  case  give  a  thorough 
watering  that  will  soak  the  soil  clear  through  to  the  bottom. 
If  you  are  not  sure  just  how  much  to  give  go  over  the  pots  or 
flats  some  fifteen  minutes  after  the  watering  and  examine 
the  soil  carefully  to  make  sure  that  it  is  wet  clear  through. 
Plants  set  in  beds  or  in  cold  frames  will  not  need  watering 
so  often  as  those  in  flats  and  pots. 

Fresh  Air  Essential  for  Healthy  Plants 

AIR.  Plenty  of  fresh  air  must  be  given  at  all  times  if  the 
plants  are  to  be  kept  healthy.  Especially  is  this  necessary 


66       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

as  the  plants  begin  to  reach  the  size  for  setting  out.  In  the 
greenhouse  or  hot-bed  fresh  air  should  be  given  every  day. 
As  soon  as  the  weather  is  warm  enough  the  hot-bed  sash 
should  be  stripped  off  entirely  during  the  warm  days. 
Plants  in  the  greenhouse  should  be  transferred  to  the  cold- 
frame  or  to  some  sheltered  spot  where  they  can  be  protected 
from  late  frosts  some  time  before  they  are  wanted  to  be  set 
out  of  doors.  As  much  fresh  air  as  possible  should  be 
given,  without  too  greatly  lowering  the  temperature. 
Direct  drafts  on  the  plants,  or  too  sudden  variations  of 
temperature,  should  be  avoided. 

LIGHT.  Even  an  abundance  of  fresh  air  will  not  keep 
seedlings  from  "drawing  up"  into  spindling,  worthless 
plants  when  they  are  kept  in  dark  or  shady  corners.  Full 
light  should  be  given.  Any  seedlings  that  seem  inclined  to 
grow  too  tall  should  be  kept  as  near  the  glass  as  possible. 
To  make  even  growth  the  potted  plants  should  occasionally 
be  shifted  round  to  prevent  their  becoming  one  sided,  and 
those  that  are  on  the  back  or  center  of  the  bench  should  be 
put  toward  the  front.  Potted  plants  for  bedding,  which  are 
usually  kept  in  the  pots  for  a  longer  period  than  the  vege- 
table plants,  should  be  handled  over  this  way  occasionally, 
and  the  surface  of  the  soil  lightly  broken  up. 

TEMPERATURE.  The  temperature,  whatever  it  should 
be  for  the  plants  to  be  grown,  should  be  kept  as  constant  as 
possible.  It  is  an  easy  matter  to  get  the  house  or  the 
frames  too  hot  when  long,  bright  days  come.  Sashes  can 
be  removed,  but  in  the  greenhouse  it  is  often  impossible 
late  in  the  spring  to  keep  the  temperature  down,  even  with 
all  the  ventilators  open.  Shading  the  glass  may  be  neces- 
sary. A  weak  whitewash  or  even  a  very  thin  clay  mud  may 
be  used  for  temporary  purposes. 

PROTECTION.  The  old  adage  about  an  ounce  of  preven- 
tion applies  here  with  double  force.  All  the  conditions,  such 
as  extremes  of  watering  or  temperature,  overcrowding, 
shady  corners,  and  so  forth,  which  are  unfavorable  to 
growth,  invite  trouble  from  insects  and  disease.  Fresh  air, 
abundance  of  room  and  sunshine  discourage  these  troubles. 


MARCH:  SECOND  WEEK  67 

If  you  have  been  bothered  before  by  green  plant  lice,  use 
tobacco  dust  freely  round  the  foliage  and  the  soil  before 
they  appear.  If  they  get  a  start  spray  thoroughly  with  a 
nicotine  solution,  or  fumigate  if  you  can  make  the  place 
tight.  If  you  haven't  a  compressed-air  tank  sprayer  buy  a 
substantial  brass  hand  spray,  which  can  also  be  used  for 
many  side  jobs  in  the  small  garden. 

Transplanting  and  Hardening  Of 

In  transplanting  get  everything  ready  before  you  begin 
work.  Have  the  soil  in  the  flats  moist  but  not  wet  enough 
to  be  sticky,  and  that  in  the  flat  from  which  the  plants  are 
being  taken  slightly  dry,  so  the  roots  may  easily  be  dis- 
entangled without  being  left  bare.  Take  the  small  plants 
out  in  chunks  and  separate  them  carefully.  Place  them  in 
pots  or  flats  deep  enough  so  that  they  will  stand  up  sturdily. 
Plants  with  long  stems,  such  as  beets,  cabbages  and  cauli- 
flower, can  be  cut  down  nearly  to  the  first  leaf.  Tomatoes, 
peppers,  eggplants,  and  all  flowers  that  are  started  early 
should  be  given  a  second  transplanting,  preferably  into 
pots.  Paper  pots  are  much  cheaper  and  are  easily  kept 
watered.  If  clay  pots  are  used  they  should  be  sunk  into 
soil  or  ashes  or  moss  to  prevent  their  drying  out  too  quickly. 

Potted  plants  for  the  flower  garden  may  need  two  or 
three  shifts  before  they  are  as  large  as  wanted.  The  time 
for  changing  them  will  be  indicated  by  the  roots'  forming  a 
network  upon  the  outside  of  the  ball  of  earth.  A  shift 
should  be  given  while  these  roots  are  still  white  and  active. 
If  left  too  long  and  allowed  to  become  tough  and  woody  the 
plant  will  be  severely  checked  if  not  permanently  injured. 
In  transplanting  and  repotting,  water  thoroughly  after  the 
operation  and  then  keep  the  plants  shaded  from  the  hot 
sun  for  a  few  days.  Water  sparingly — only  to  moisten  the 
foliage. 

All  hardy  plants,  such  as  beets,  cabbage,  cauliflower, 
lettuce  and  kohl-rabi,  and  the  early  flowers,  such  as  pansies, 
daisies,  pyrethrum  and  so  forth,  should  be  hardened  off 


68       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

thoroughly  before  being  placed  in  permanent  positions. 
If  they  are  growing  in  a  frame  leave  the  sash  off  night  and 
day;  if  they  are  in  a  greenhouse  shift  them  to  the  outside. 
Careful  watch  should  be  kept,  especially  just  after  they 
are  put  out,  to  see  that  a  sudden  change  in  temperature  does 
not  catch  them  some  night.  Any  of  these  things,  when  they 
are  properly  hardened,  can  stand  a  few  degrees  of  frost 
without  being  injured.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  have  a  number 
of  cloth  frames  on  hand  for  use  over  these  things  during  the 
two  weeks  or  so  before  they  are  to  be  set  out,  as  these  will 
give  ample  protection,  and  the  glass  sash  can  be  used  over 
the  more  tender  things  or  to  forward  crops  growing  in  the 
frames.  If  in  spite  of  your  watchfulness  the  plants  should 
get  frozen  some  night  keep  them  shaded  from  the  sun  the 
next  morning,  and  thaw  them  out  with  very  cold  water. 

A  number  of  the  flowering  plants  that  are  grown  from 
seed,  such  as  heliotrope,  sal  via,  antirrhinum,  and  the  like, 
tend  to  grow  up  to  single  tall  stalks,  though  rugged  branch- 
ing plants  are  desired.  As  soon  as  the  plants  begin  to  make 
strong  growth  after  transplanting,  the  tops  should  be 
pinched  out  to  induce  the  growth  of  the  side  shoots.  The 
tops,  if  large  and  firm  enough,  may  be  used  for  cuttings  to 
make  a  second  batch  of  plants. 


March:  Third  Week 

THE  FIRST  PLANTING  AND  SEEDING  IN  THE 
OPEN  GARDEN 

As  soon  as  the  pussy  willows  push  open  their  little  gray 
buds  the  gardener  begins  to  wonder  when  he  would  better 
begin  planting.  Naturally  he  is  anxious  to  have  his  first 
mess  of  peas  just  a  few  days  ahead  of  his  next-door  neighbor; 
but,  on  the  other  hand,  he  does  not  want  to  lose  his  plants 
or  have  his  peas  rot  in  the  ground.  A  few  things  that  can 
be  planted  "as  soon  as  the  ground  is  fit  to  work"  include 
sweet  peas,  smooth  garden  peas,  radishes,  onions  and  spin- 
ach. Other  early  things  should  not  be  put  into  the  ground 
too  hurriedly.  Often  a  warm  period,  which  will  dry  out  the 
soil  so  it  can  be  spaded  and  put  into  fairly  good  condition, 
will  be  succeeded  by  a  few  days  or  a  week  of  real  winter 
weather,  and  the  early  plants  and  such  seeds  as  beets  and 
carrots  may  be  damaged  considerably. 

In  the  latitude  of  New  York  and  Chicago  the  first  plant- 
ing may  be  done  from  the  last  week  in  March  to  the  middle 
of  April,  according  to  season  and  soil.  Plants  that  may  be 
set  out  as  soon  as  hard  freezing  at  night  lets  up  are  cabbage, 
lettuce,  beets,  broccoli  and  kohl-rabi.  The  rest  of  the  early 
vegetables  for  sowing  in  the  open  are  beets,  cabbage, 
lettuce,  carrots,  kohl-rabi,  onions,  parsley,  parsnips,  salsify, 
turnips,  and  water  cress;  and  cauliflower,  celery  and  leeks, 
to  be  transplanted  later.  Cauliflower  plants,  wrinkled  peas 
and  potatoes  should  be  held  back  until  the  weather  has 
moderated  still  further. 

A  simple  rule,  which  varies  automatically  with  the  sea- 
son and  is  therefore  better  than  a  calendar  date,  is  to  plant 
the  hardy  things  while  the  plum  and  peach  trees  are  in 

60 


70       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

bloom,  during  which  time  the  temperature  will  average 
about  forty-five  degrees  in  the  shade. 

Make  a  Fine  Seed  Bed 

Thorough  preparation  of  the  seed  bed  is  the  most  im- 
portant step  in  seed  sowing.  The  soil  should  be  dug  and 
raked  to  get  it  into  general  good  condition.  Be  careful  to 
get  all  manure  well  turned  under,  and  mixed  with  the  soil. 
If  left  in  a  solid  layer  beneath  the  surface,  in  a  dry  season 
it  may  do  more  harm  than  good,  by  cutting  off  the  water 
supply  from  below.  Just  before  you  plant  go  over  the 
ground  thoroughly  again,  so  it  will  be  moist  clear  to  the  top, 
and  the  surface  should  be  made  as  fine  and  as  level  as  you 
can  make  it. 

A  number  of  the  garden  seeds,  such  as  onions,  carrots, 
and  turnips,  are  very  small  and  must  not  be  planted  deep. 


:.-*?+>-  ^f^V^-T^-i^W^^^ 

"  'SUBSOll.'  •'• 

Wrong  way  Correct  way 

If  the  soil  is  rough  and  lumpy  it  will  dry  out  very  quickly  on 
top,  even  at  this  time  of  year,  when  a  few  inches  below  the 
surface  it  is  abundantly  moist. 

It  is  no  less  important  to  prepare  the  soil  thoroughly 
where  plants  are  to  be  set  out.  It  must  be  fine  and  mellow 
to  pack  closely  round  the  hundreds  of  little  rootlets,  and  to 
form  a  dust  mulch  on  the  surface  as  soon  as  the  planting 
is  done. 

In  the  small  garden  there  is  no  excuse  for  the  rows  not 
being  straight  as  a  string.  Mark  off  the  first  one  with  your 
garden  line.  If  the  soil  is  in  the  right  condition  you  can 
"snap"  a  mark  into  it;  have  the  line  tight,  raise  it  at  two 
or  three  points  along  the  row  and  let  it  snap  back  against 
the  soil.  Otherwise  mark  the  row  with  your  rake  handle. 
Then  watch  your  wheel,  if  you  use  the  seed  drill,  and  keep 


PLATE  5. — Among  the  time  saving,  labor  saving  attachments  available 
for  the  wheel  hoe  is  the  double  plow  used  for  opening  furrows  in  planting  pota- 
toes, peas  or  beans,  or  for  covering  under  manure  or  fertilizer  before  setting 
out  plants.  (Lower}  In  setting  plants,  have  the  ground  prepared  in  advance, 
keep  the  plants  exposed  to  wind  and  sun  as  short  a  time  as  possible,  and  firm  the 
earth  well  about  the  roots. 


PLATE  6. — In  small  gardens  and  flower  beds,  where  seeds  must  be  planted  by 
hand,  a  straight  edged  wide  board  is  a  great  convenience.  (Lower)  In  sowing 
very  fine  seed,  such  as  that  of  many  flowers,  use  a  brick  or  piece  of  smooth 
board  to  press  the  surface  down  smooth.  This  will  tend  to  keep  it  moist  and 
insure  good  germination. 


MARCH:  THIRD  WEEK  71 

it  straight  on  this  row  so  that  the  succeeding  rows  will  be 
exactly  parallel. 

Don't  just  empty  a  packet  of  seed  into  the  drill.  If  you 
have  a  garden  plan  you  will  know  just  exactly  what  you 
have  to  do.  Anyway  figure  out  just  how  much  of  each 
thing  you  want  to  plant,  and  plant  no  more  or  no  less. 
If  a  little  seed  of  some  things  is  left  over — not  enough  to 
save — throw  it  away. 

In  planting  very  early  in  the  spring  you  should  keep  in 
mind  existing  conditions,  which  are  quite  different  from 
those  that  will  obtain  later.  At  this  time  of  the  year  the 
ground  is  likely  to  be  too  wet  rather  than  too  dry.  There- 
fore seeds  should  be  planted  comparatively  shallow,  not 
so  deeply  covered  as  you  would  cover  the  same  kind  of 
seed  six  or  eight  weeks  hence.  For  the  same  reason  it 
will  not  be  so  necessary  to  roll  the  soil  hard  above  the  seeds, 
though  they  should  never  be  covered  loosely.  Seeds  should 
be  planted  thickly,  as  conditions  are  not  wholly  favorable. 

Planting  by  Hand 

When  seeds  have  to  be  put  in  by  hand  use  a  long  flat 
board  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  wide.  Mark  out  the  drill 
along  one  edge  of  this,  then  kneel  on  the  board  and  scatter 
the  seeds  thinly  and  evenly.  Cover  them  lightly  and  press 
down  the  whole  row  evenly  with  the  edge  of  the  board. 

Fertilizer  or  manure  for  vegetables  sown  from  seed  is 
almost  always  broadcast  on  the  surface  before  planting, 
Part  of  that  used  for  plants  to  be  set  out,  however,  should 
be  applied  in  the  hill.  The  quickest  way  of  doing  this, 
when  any  number  of  plants  is  to  go  out,  is  to  open  a  row 
with  the  hoe  attachment  on  the  wheel  hoe,  mark  across  the 
row,  drop  the  fertilizer  or  manure  at  the  intersections  of  the 
lines  and  then  cover  the  row  again — the  marks  left  between 
the  rows  showing  where  the  plants  are  to  be  set.  When 
only  a  few  dozen  plants  are  to  be  set,  however,  it  will 
probably  be  quicker  simply  to  mark  out  the  rows,  dig  small 
holes  with  the  hoe  at  each  place,  drop  in  the  manure  or 


72 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


fertilizer,  mix  it  with  the  soil  and  fill  the  hole  level  again 
ready  for  the  plant.  Do  your  transplanting  on  a  cloudy 
day,  or  late  in  the  afternoon. 

In  the  following  planting  table  necessary  information  is 
given  for  planting  the  various  early  crops. 

EARLY  HARDY  CROPS 


VEGETABLES 

SEEDS  OR 
PLANTS  FOR 
SO  FEET 
OF  ROW 

DEPTH  IN 

INCHES 

APART 
IN  ROWS, 
INCHES 

DISTANCE 
APART  OF 
ROWS, 
INCHES 

Asoaracus 

SO 
IOO-I5O 

35 
35 
%  oz. 

35 
KOZ. 
#oz. 
Xoz. 
Xoz. 

Koz. 
^oz. 

150 

KOZ. 

Xoz. 

ipt. 
ipt. 

Kpk. 
^oz. 
2<oz. 
^oz. 
J^oz. 

4 

i 

# 

H 

y* 

H 

x-x 

H 

y* 
u 

% 

w? 

1-2 

2-4 

3K4 
X 

y* 

v*-y* 

12 

4-6 

18 
18 
3~4 
18 
2-3 

12 

6-8 

3-4 
8-12 

12 

2-3 
4 
4-6 

3-5 

2-4 
24-48 
13 
2-3 
2-4 
8-12 
4-6 

36 
12-15 

24 
24 
12 
24 
12 
12 

18 

15 

12-15 

12-15 
12-15 
12-15 

12 
I5-I8 
36 
36-48 
28 
12 
I5-I8 
I5-I8 
IS 

Beets            

Broccoli  

Cabbage  

Carrots 

Cauliflower            . 

Celery                     

Endive       

Kohl-rabi     

Leek         

Lettuce  plants  

Lettuce  seed 

Onions 

Onion  seedlings                        .    .  . 

Parsley                             

Parsnips     .      .       

Peas,  smooth,  for  early  planting.  . 
Peas,  wrinkled  

Potatoes  

Radishes 

Salsify                          .      . 

Swiss  chard   ....         

Turnios.  . 

BEETS.  Plants  should  be  set  out  in  rows  a  foot  apart, 
with  about  four  plants  to  the  foot.  The  seed  should  be 
sown  in  the  driest  soil  available,  from  half  an  inch  to  one 
inch  deep. 

CABBAGE.  Well-hardened  plants  will  withstand  cold. 
Most  of  the  first  planting  should  be  of  a  late  variety.  A 
packet  or  two  of  seed  should  be  sown  to  furnish  plants  for 
summer  and  early  fall.  Make  the  rows  six  to  ten  inches 
apart. 


MARCH:  THIRD  WEEK  73 

CARROTS.  Sow  the  seed  thickly;  cover  very  lightly  with 
very  fine  soil. 

CAULIFLOWER.  Usually  this  should  not  be  put  out 
until  a  week  or  two  after  the  cabbage.  Broccoli  is 
hardier. 

LETTUCE.  The  plants  should  be  set  about  a  foot  apart 
each  way,  though  the  smallest  varieties,  such  as  Tom  Thumb 
or  Mignonette,  ma^  be  set  closer.  A  little  semiliquid  hen 
manure  put  under  each  plant  will  help  in  producing  rapid 
and  large  growth.  Seed  of  one  of  the  summer  varieties  and 
of  one  of  the  early  varieties  should  be  sown  when  the  plants 
are  set  or  shortly  after.  The  plants  should  be  thinned  out 
as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough. 

ONIONS.  A  few  sets  should  be  put  out  to  furnish  an  extra- 
early  supply.  If  large  bulbs  are  wanted  the  sets  should  be 
small  and  hard.  If  green  or  bunched  onions  to  eat  raw  are 
wanted  size  will  not  make  much  difference.  The  bed  for 
the  seeds  should  be  particularly  well  prepared.  It  is  a  good 
plan  to  mix  a  few  radish  seeds  with  the  onions,  as  they 
come  up  quickly  and  mark  the  rows  and  also  serve  as  traps 
for  the  onion  fly. 

Of  the  garnishes,  "green"  onions  are  among  the  best. 
These  are  usually  grown  from  "  sets,"  or  small  onions,  which 
were  sown  the  year  before,  and  this  is  the  best  way  to  get 
the  really  early  ones  for  the  table.  The  sets  known  as 
" white"  or  Silverskin  should  be  used,  as  they  are  small, 
quick-growing  and  mild.  For  succession  grow  white  onions 
from  seed,  to  be  used  as  a  garnish  for  salads.  The  flavor 
of  a  young  onion,  grown  quickly  from  seed  in  porous  mellow 
soil,  where  there  has  been  no  check  from  lack  of  moisture, 
is  extremely  delicate  and  far  surpasses  that  of  those  grown 
from  sets.  There  should  be  several  sowings  so  you  can 
continue  to  use  them  when  the  bulbs  are  the  size  of  chest- 
nuts. 

To  grow  onions  the  soil  should  be  the  richest  possible; 
it  will  be  well  to  dig  in  the  manure  from  the  chicken  house 
and  the  ashes  from  the  wood  fire.  A  commercial  fertilizer 
analyzing  4-7-10 — four  per  cent  nitrogen,  seven  per  cent 


74       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

phosphoric  acid  and  ten  per  cent  potash — should  be  broad- 
cast before  raking  and  the  surface  of  the  beds  made  very 
fine  and  even.  Sow  the  seed  thinly  in  drills  a  foot  apart  to 
fifteen  inches  for  wheel-hoe  culture,  and  not  deeper  than 
half  an  inch.  Sowing  should  be  done  when  the  soil  is  moist 
enough  to  work  well. 

PARSLEY.  The  seed  germinates  very  slowly  and  should  be 
soaked  a  day  or  two  in  lukewarm  water  before  planting. 

PARSNIPS  and  SALSIFY.  Both  of  these  good  winter  vege- 
tables have  peculiar-shaped  seeds.  The  ground  where  they 
are  to  be  planted  should  be  spaded  deeply,  as  they  require 
a  generous  depth  of  soil  in  order  to  make  shapely  roots. 
Thin  out  as  soon  as  they  are  well  started. 

PEAS.  These  may  be  sown  in  single  or  twin  rows  about 
six  inches  apart,  making  the  rows  three  to  four  feet  apart 
for  the  dwarf  varieties  and  a  little  more  for  the  tall  ones  if 
brush  is  to  be  used.  Make  the  first  plantings  quite  shallow, 
and  sow  extra  thick.  If  they  come  up  too  thickly  some  of 
the  plants  should  be  cut  out  with  a  small  hoe,  or  pulled 
out. 

RADISHES.  Sow  only  a  few  feet  of  row  at  a  time,  as  they 
mature  very  quickly  and  soon  get  stringy  and  pithy.  A 
good  method  is  to  sow  a  short  row  in  the  seed  border  each 
week.  A  generous  dressing  of  land  plaster  along  the  row 
before  sowing  will  make  them  bright  and  crisp. 

TURNIPS.  These  mature  quickly,  and  only  a  few  of  the 
earlier  sorts  should  be  sown.  Weed  the  rows  and  thin  out 
as  soon  as  possible  after  they  are  up. 


March:  Fourth  Week 

FIRST  PLANTING  OF  FLOWERS  OUT-DOORS; 
PRUNING  ROSES;  WORK  WITH  THE  HARDY 
BORDER;  GETTING  A  START  WITH  ANNUALS 

Spring  work  in  the  flower  garden,  like  that  in  the  veg- 
etable garden,  cannot  be  done  all  at  one  time.  But  the 
earlier  start  you  can  get,  and  the  more  you  can  keep  ahead 
of  the  several  jobs  to  be  done,  the  better.  To  do  their  best, 
flowers  require  a  large  amount  of  moisture  in  the  soil,  and 
the  best  way  to  provide  this  is  to  work  the  beds  up  as  soon 
as  rainy  weather  lets  up. 

For  the  purposes  of  planting,  it  is  important  to  know 
whether  flowers  are  hardy,  half  hardy  or  tender.  This  in- 
formation is  almost  always  given  on  the  packets  in  which 
the  seeds  come.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  plant  flowers  of  the 
various  groups  soon  after  you  plant  vegetables  of  the  cor- 
responding groups.  Sweet  peas,  however,  should  be  planted 
as  early  as  possible. 

Along  with  other  information  on  your  packets  of  flower 
seeds  you  will  note  the  direction  "or  start  early  under 
glass."  You  may  have  started  some  already  if  you  have  a 
hot-bed;  if  not  it  is  by  no  means  too  late  to  start  them  in  the 
cold-frame  or  the  hot-bed  now — but  you  must  do  it  at  once. 
The  half-hardy  and  tender  plants  cannot  safely  be  planted 
in  the  open  for  four  to  seven  weeks  to  come.  If  seeds  of 
these  are  to  be  sown  in  flats  and  the  seedlings  transplanted 
before  setting  out  in  the  garden,  they  may  be  put  in  quite 
thickly.  If  there  is  not  time  or  room  for  this  sow  the  seeds 
rather  thinly  in  rows  four  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  frame 
and  thin  the  plants  to  stand  two  or  three  inches  apart.  In 
this  way  a  good  supply  of  stocky  little  plants,  which  will 
advance  your  flower  garden  several  weeks,  can  be  grown 
with  very  little  trouble. 

75 


76       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

A  Substitute  for  a  Cold-frame 

If  not  even  a  cold-frame  is  available  a  specially  prepared 
seed  bed  may  be  made  in  some  sheltered  place,  south  of  a 
wall  or  building,  and  protected  from  any  drip  from  the  eaves 
above.  Spade  up  a  narrow  border  four  or  five  feet  wide, 
raising  it  a  little  above  the  general  level  of  the  garden.  Un- 
less it  is  naturally  good  soil  and  can  be  made  fine  and  mellow, 
put  on  top  some  four  inches  of  clean,  rich  soil  from  one  of  the 
old  flower  beds.  Make  the  bed  perfectly  smooth  and  mark 
out  shallow  drills  six  to  ten  inches  apart.  Cover  the  flower 
seeds  lightly  and  then  roll,  or  gently  pack  down  the  whole 
surface  with  the  back  of  the  spade.  This  bed  should  be 
conveniently  situated,  so  it  can  be  watered  either  with  the 
hose  or  with  a  watering  can.  In  preparing  the  bed,  rake  in 
a  good  dressing  of  bone  flour.  The  plants  should  be  thinned 
out  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough  so  they  will  not  crowd. 
With  very  little  extra  work  you  can  have  from  a  border  four 
by  six  feet  a  good  many  hundred  plants  of  many  different 
kinds  ready  to  set  out  in  the  beds  only  a  little  later  than 
you  would  ordinarily  sow  the  seed. 

Plants  that  do  not  lend  themselves  to  transplanting,  such 
as  poppies,  and  some  of  the  quick-growing  annuals,  like 
portulacas,  are  almost  always  sown  where  they  are  to  flower. 
The  surface  of  the  soil  should  be  made  as  fine  as  possible,  no 
matter  how  many  times  it  has  to  be  gone  over.  The  seed  is 
thinly  broadcast  or  dropped  in  rows  on  the  surface,  if  very 
small,  and  pressed  into  the  soil  with  the  edge  of  a  board  or 
with  a  brick. 

In  preparing  the  flower  beds  work  in  all  the  manure  and 
humus  you  can  and  in  addition  give  a  top-dressing  of  bone 
dust  or  mixed  fertilizers.  If  the  beds  are  spaded  up  some 
weeks  before  you  expect  to  plant  them  rake  them  over 
occasionally  to  destroy  sprouting  weeds  and  to  maintain  a 
dust  mulch. 

If  tree  roots  invade  the  flower  bed  cut  down  about  the 
edge  of  the  bed  with  an  edger  or  with  a  sharp  spade,  going 


MARCH:  FOURTH  WEEK  77 

as  deep  as  you  can.  If  there  is  much  trouble  from  this  source 
it  will  pay  to  repeat  the  operation  several  times  during  the 
summer,  keeping  the  roots  cut  off  while  they  are  small. 

In  buying  plants  for  your  flower  garden,  keep  in  mind  that 
good  health  and  a  growing  condition  are  to  be  preferred 
to  size.  Also  resist  the  temptation  to  get  one  of  each  thing 
rather  than  sticking  to  a  few  good  sorts  and  colors.  A  bed 
of  geraniums  of  one  solid  color  is  very  much  more  artistic 
and  effective  than  one  in  which  shades  of  pink,  red  and 
white  are  indiscriminately  mixed. 

First  Work  in  the  Rose  Garden 

The  most  important  part  of  the  year's  work  in  the  rose 
garden  must  be  attended  to  soon.  When  severe  freezing 
weather  begins  to  let  up  and  the  frost  is  pretty  well  out  of  the 
ground  take  the  mulching  off  the  rose  bed  and  from  around 
the  single  plants.  It  is  best  not  to  do  this  all  at  once,  how- 
ever, but  to  take  off  a  little  at  a  time,  leaving  only  so  much 
about  the  plants  as  can  be  readily  worked  under  when  the 
soil  between  the  plants  is  forked  up.  A  dressing  of  fine  bone 
or  bone  flour  and  coarse  bone  mixed  should  be  worked 
deeply  into  the  soil  at  this  time.  If  the  soil  has  been  hilled 
up  round  the  stalks  in  the  fall  for  winter  protection  it  should 
be  leveled  at  this  time. 

Spring  Pruning  of  Roses 

As  soon  as  the  dormant  buds  or  eyes  start  along  the  old 
canes,  or  swell  into  leaf  buds  so  large  that  you  can  tell  where 
there  is  deadwood,  begin  pruning.  The  hardy  perpetual 
sorts  should  be  pruned  first.  Garden  roses  flower  on  new 
wood,  so  in  cutting  back  you  are  not  destroying  any  possible 
roses.  The  average  gardener  is  much  more  likely  to  prune 
too  little  than  too  much.  Stronger  varieties  are  pruned 
less  severely  than  those  of  a  weaker  habit  of  growth.  If  the 
plants  are  lightly  pruned  they  will  bear  many  flowers  of 
small  size.  If  moderately  pruned  they  will  bear  fewer  and 


78       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

larger  flowers;  while  for  the  largest  and  finest  individual 
blossoms  the  plants  should  be  very  severely  pruned. 

Beginning  with  the  hybrid  perpetuals,  which  are  the 
hardiest  and  most  robust  in  growth  among  the  garden 
roses,  cut  out  clear  to  the  ground  all  but  four  to  eight  canes, 
and  cut  these  back  from  a  third  to  a  half.  For  large  flowers, 
cut  these  remaining  canes  back  to  four  to  eight  eyes  or  buds 
from  the  ground.  The  hybrid  teas,  many  of  which  are 
comparatively  weak  growing,  will  need  more  severe  pruning, 
but  they  can  be  cut  back  until  the  garden  looks  like  a  collec- 
tion of  stubs  without  in  any  way  injuring  the  quality,  and 
not  greatly  lessening  the  quantity,  of  their  flowers.  Leave 
canes  placed  as  evenly  as  possible  and  as  spreading  as  pos- 
sible so  that  the  bush  will  have  an  open  center.  Always  cut 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  above  an  outside  eye,  so  the  new 
branch  will  grow  outward. 

Occasionally  a  rose  bush  will  throw  up  a  very  strong- 
growing  cane  looking  quite  different  from  the  others  and 
bearing  very  few  or  no  buds.  Such  a  growth  should  be  cut 
out.  If  each  leaflet  has  seven  parts  instead  of  five  you  may 
know  that  the  cane  springs  from  below  the  collar  or  graft  of 
a  budded  rose,  and  unless  it  is  destroyed  it  will  be  likely  to 
kill  all  the  upper  part  of  the  plant. 

The  rambler  roses  are  of  an  entirely  different  type  and 
should  not  be  pruned  early  in  spring  further  than  to  cut  out 
any  very  old,  diseased  or  broken  wood,  or  to  cut  the  plant 
into  more  shapely  form.  In  this  case  all  the  live  wood  that 
is  cut  away  does  sacrifice  flowers.  The  rugosas  or  Japanese 
roses,  which  are  very  hardy,  require  little  pruning  except 
to  cut  the  old  canes  clear  to  the  ground  when  they  become 
too  thick.  The  same  is  true  of  roses  belonging  to  the  Bour- 
bon, China  and  polyantha  classes — the  latter  including 
most  of  the  dwarf  and  baby  roses. 

Roses  may  be  bought  as  dormant  roots  or  as  potted  plants 
in  active  growth.  The  dormant  roots  should  be  planted  as 
early  as  it  is  possible  to  work  the  soil.  Growing  plants 
should  not  be  set  out  until  after  danger  from  frost.  The 
bed  should  be  dug  out  to  a  depth  of  two  or  three  feet,  and 


MARCH:  FOURTH  WEEK  79 

the  subsoil  broken  up  with  a  pick;  then  a  layer  of  drainage 
material,  such  as  coal  or  cinder,  several  inches  thick  should 
be  put  in  and  covered  with  sod;  and  on  top  of  this  a  layer 
of  good  garden  soil,  well  enriched  with  manure  or  bone  dust, 
should  be  placed,  extending  within  six  inches  or  so  of  the 
surface.  It  is  well  not  to  enrich  the  top  layer  of  soil,  so  the 
roots  will  be  induced  to  grow  downward  rather  than  to 
feed  near  the  surface.  (See  directions  on  page  $00.) 

The  plants  should  be  set  in  a  little  deeper  than  they  have 
been  growing,  as  shown  by  the  soil  mark  on  the  stem.  The 
union  or  collar  should  be  two  or  three  inches  below  the  sur- 
face. Great  care  should  be  taken  to  keep  the  roots  moist, 
well  covered  with  moss  or  burlap,  while  planting.  Do  not 
leave  them  lying  round  exposed  to  wind  or  sun,  even  for  a 
few  moments.  After  planting,  prune  the  plant  back  even 
more  severely  than  you  would  a  well-established  rose  of  the 
same  kind. 

Work  with  the  Hardy  Border 

Do  not  be  in  too  great  a  rush  to  get  the  mulch  off  the 
hardy  border.  It  should  be  left  on  until  all  danger  of  a 
premature  start,  owing  to  a  false  promise  of  spring  weather, 
is  past.  Do  not,  on  the  other  hand,  leave  the  mulching  on 
until  the  plants  start  beneath  it  and  then  expose  the  tender 
new  growth  to  a  late  frost.  It  is  best  to  remove  the  cover 
gradually.  If  manure  was  used,  work  as  much  of  it  as  pos- 
sible into  the  soil  as  soon  as  it  is  dry  enough  to  fork.  At  the 
same  time  add  bone  dust  or  mixed  fertilizer.  Borders  or 
beds  for  perennials  should  be  prepared  as  soon  as  possible, 
and  if  the  plants  do  not  come  from  too  far  south  of  their 
permanent  location  they  will  bloom  this  summer.  Potted 
stock  is  usually  a  little  more  expensive  than  field-grown 
stuff,  but  it  will  give  much  better  results. 

Almost  every  spring  the  gardener  will  want  to  move  about 
some  of  his  own  old  plants.  This  is  desirable  if  he  wishes  to 
increase  his  stock  or  has  varieties  that  have  become  crowded 
after  a  number  of  years.  Some  things  can  be  increased  by 


80     AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

division  of  the  old  clumps,  such  as  iris,  hardy  phlox  and  lily 
of  the  valley. 

All  surface  soil  in  the  borders  should  be  forked  over  as 
deeply  as  possible  without  injuring  the  plants,  and  then 
should  be  raked  or  hoed  fine  and  loose.  In  sections  where 
there  is  likely  to  be  a  long  summer  drought  it  is  well  to  keep 
the  winter  mulch  handy  to  apply  again  as  a  summer  mulch. 

Getting  a  Start  with  the  Annuals 

Popular  judgment  is  not  far  wrong  when  it  comes  to 
picking  out  the  best  of  the  annuals.  But,  paradoxically 
enough,  some  of  the  best-known  annuals  are  the  least  known. 
Take  nasturtiums,  for  instance.  Nine  persons  out  of  ten 
still  buy  seed  in  collections.  Why  not  buy  a  few  of  the 
splendid  new  named  sorts?  The  seed  costs  more.  But 
nasturtiums  are  almost  always  planted  too  thick  to  do  well. 
The  dwarf  sorts  make  good  borders.  They  flower  profusely 
even  in  poor  soil.  . 

Sweet  peas  used  to  be  bought  almost  altogether  by  the 
" collection"  also,  but  dozens  of  named  varieties  are  now 
well  known.  A  little  extra  attention  given  to  the  planting 
and  care  of  your  sweet  peas  will  be  amply  repaid.  For  best 
results  trench  the  rows,  forking  in  at  the  bottom  a  good  layer 
of  rotted  manure.  The  rows,  if  in  a  well-drained  position, 
may  be  made  about  six  inches  deep  at  first.  Cover  the  seed 
about  two  inches,  and  gradually  fill  the  trench  as  the  plants 
grow.  Leave  a  slight  depression  to  help  in  watering.  Pro- 
vide a  suitable  trellis  before  the  vines  begin  to  climb. 
Mulch  with  leaf  mold,  grass,  or  light  manure  as  dry  weather 
comes  on;  the  mulch  is  desirable  even  when  water  can  be 
given,  as  it  prevents  alternate  drying  and  soaking  of  the  soil 
and  keeps  it  cool. 

Poppies  cover  a  wide  range  of  form  and  color,  and  may 
now  be  had  in  numerous  named  varieties.  The  seed  of  the 
annual  sorts  is  very  fine,  and  care  should  be  exercised  to 
make  the  seed  bed  as  fine  as  possible.  Unless  the  soil  is 
moist,  water  it  thoroughly  several  hours  before  planting. 


MARCH:  FOURTH  WEEK  8l 

Scatter  the  seed  as  evenly  as  possible  and  then  firm  the 
whole  surface  with  a  small  board  or  with  the  back  of  a 
spade.  Thin  out,  on  a  cloudy  day,  if  the  plants  are  too  thick. 

For  brilliant  and  lasting  mass  effects,  with  a  minimum  of 
expense  and  trouble,  no  flowers  exceed  the  plebeian  petunia. 
For  most  bedding  purposes  the  single-flowered  sorts,  in 
separate  colors,  are  preferable.  The  seed  is  quite  small  and 
germinates  freely,  but  the  plants  are  usually  left  too  close 
together  to  produce  the  best  results.  Thin  to  stand  eight 
to  twelve  inches  apart.  In  thinning  the  double  sorts,  re- 
move the  strongest  plants,  as  they  are  more  likely  to  bear 
single  or  worthless  flowers. 

For  low-growing,  spreading  plants  to  give  brilliant  masses 
of  color  up  to  hard  frosts,  glorifying  the  autumn  garden, 
sow  a  few  beds  or  parts  of  beds  to  verbenas.  They  may  be 
thinned  to  ten  to  twelve  inches  at  first,  and  then  every  other 
plant  removed  and  set  out  where  earlier  flowers  have  gone 
by  or  failed.  There  is  a  new  crested  type  quite  distinct  from 
the  older  sorts. 


April:  First  Week 

POINTERS  ON  PLANTING;  PROTECTION  FROM 
LATE  FROSTS;  LABELS  AND  MARKERS;  CARE 
OF  TOOLS 

There  are  usually  one  right  way  and  several  wrong  ways 
of  doing  the  simplest  garden  operation.  Take,  for  instance, 
the  use  of  the  spade  and  the  rake. 

In  using  the  spade  the  hard  part  is  generally  not  so  much 
in  lifting  and  turning  the  soil  as  in  breaking  it  away  before 
it  is  lifted.  Handle  the  spade  so  that  only  one  edge  of  the 
piece  being  dug  will  have  to  be  broken  away — making  the 
cut  slightly  diagonal.  A  beginner  at  raking  almost  always 
makes  the  mistake  of  attempting  to  use  the  implement  as 
he  would  to  rake  grass.  But  the  purpose  here  is  to  fine  and 
level  the  soil,  necessitating  a  backward-and-forward  move- 
ment over  a  small  piece  of  ground. 

Some  Pointers  on  Planting 

Practically  all  seed  sowing  is  now  done  by  machinery,  but 
occasionally  it  is  necessary  to  employ  the  old  art  of  hand 
sowing,  especially  for  flower  seeds  in  the  small  garden. 
The  best  way  to  handle  very  small  seeds  is  to  mix  them  with 
fine,  dry  sand  or  dirt,  which  makes  it  possible  to  get  a  much 
more  even  distribution  in  the  drill.  Small  seeds  of  which 
only  a  few  are  wanted  may  usually  be  sown  from  the  packet. 
Hand  planting  is  best  done  with  a  board  twelve  to  fifteen 
inches  wide,  which  can  be  used  to  mark  out  the  row,  to 
kneel  on  when  sowing  the  seed,  turned  on  edge  to  press  the 
seed  into  the  furrow  for  covering,  and  turned  over  to  mark 
out  the  next  row.  This  insures  straight  rows  and  at  the 
same  time  avoids  tramping  down  the  soil. 

82 


APRIL:  FIRST  WEEK  83 

It  is  frequently  desirable  to  hurry  a  crop  along,  or,  when 
conditions  are  not  favorable  for  sprouting,  to  give  the  seeds 
some  treatment  before  planting.  The  method  generally 
used  is  to  soak  the  seeds  from  twenty-four  to  forty-eight 
hours  in  tepid  water  so  they  will  be  at  the  point  of  germina- 
tion before  they  are  put  into  the  soil.  This  is  specially 
desirable  for  seeds  that  germinate  slowly,  such  as  celery, 
parsley,  and  the  like.  But  it  can  be  used  to  advantage  in 
other  cases — to  get  a  quick  start  with  peas,  for  instance. 
Hard-shelled  seeds,  such  as  cannas  and  moonflowers,  may 
be  filed  or  notched  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  then  soaked. 
Do  not  allow  soaked  seeds  to  become  dried  out  again  before 
planting.  They  may  be  rolled  in  dry  dust  or  in  gypsum  to 
prevent  their  sticking  together  in  planting. 

It  often  happens  that  plants  received  by  mail  or  express 
in  the  course  of  the  spring  have  to  be  kept  for  several  days 
before  they  can  be  set  out,  although  they  should  always  be 
put  into  the  ground  as  soon  as  possible.  When  the  plants 
arrive  unpack  them  carefully  and  look  them  over  to  see  that 
you  have  just  the  right  numbers  of  the  right  varieties. 
Untie  the  packages  so  the  plants  can  get  plenty  of  air,  but 
keep  them  where  they  will  be  protected  from  wind  and  sun 
and  will  be  kept  cool.  The  roots  should  be  kept  moist  either 
by  heeling  them  in  moist  earth  or  by  having  moist  moss  or 
burlap  wrapped  round  them. 

Protection  from  Late  Frosts 

Sometimes  plants  are  large  enough  to  set  out  before  condi- 
tions are  just  right  for  them.  The  first  thing  to  do  with 
plants  that  have  grown  as  large  as  you  want  them  to  be  is  to 
get  them  into  the  open  air.  Keep  them  where  they  can  be 
protected  from  frost,  but  where  they  can  get  full  sun  and 
air.  Give  just  enough  water  to  keep  the  soil  from  drying 
out.  Water  thoroughly,  however,  the  day  before  planting, 
so  that  the  soil  and  roots  will  be  in  the  right  condition. 

Occasionally  during  March,  April  and  early  May  in  the 
Northern  States  the  gardener  who  is  trying  to  be  early  will 


84       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

have  a  close  call  from  frost.  When  there  are  indications  of  a 
dew  fall  and  the  thermometer  drops  rapidly  late  in  the  day, 
and  the  air  is  still,  and  the  sky  is  clear,  the  gardener's  safe 
course  is  to  cover  the  plants.  Those  in  the  cold-frames,  if 
covered  even  with  cloth  sash,  will  be  protected  from  several 
degrees  of  frost.  Blankets  and  old  bags  and  burlaps  sup- 
ported above  the  plants  on  a  few  short  sticks  will  answer 
the  same  purpose. 

For  plants  that  have  already  been  set  out  other  means  will 
be  necessary.  One  of  the  most  effective  methods  of  covering 
such  early  things  as  potatoes  and  peas  is  to  run  the  wheel  hoe 
with  the  hilling  attachment  along  the  row  and  hill  up  the 
earth  over  the  plants. 

Also  you  will  find  it  well  to  save  a  supply  of  newspapers, 
with  which  in  a  few  minutes  you  can  cover  up  a  hundred  or 
two  hundred  plants  or  hills  of  such  things  as  pole  beans, 
tomatoes,  melons  or  squash;  put  several  thicknesses  of 
newspaper  over  each  and  hold  the  edges  down  with  a  few 
trowelfuls  of  dirt.  Inverted  tomato  cans  or  flower  pots  may 
be  used  to  protect  individual  plants. 

If,  in  spite  of  all  your  precautions,  some  of  your  plants 
get  nipped  they  should  be  protected  from  the  sun  the  next 
morning  and  watered  as  early  as  possible  with  very  cold 
water.  This  may  form  a  very  thin  coating  of  ice  on  the 
leaves,  but  it  will  serve  to  get  the  frost  out  gradually,  which 
lessens  the  damage. 

Instead  of  temporary  frost  protection  of  this  kind,  how- 
ever, much  better  and  earlier  results  are  to  be  had  by  per- 
manent plant  protectors,  of  which  there  are  numerous  kinds 
to  be  bought  or  made.  One  of  the  simplest  is  the  plain 
forcing  hill,  which  is  nothing  but  a  pane  of  glass  on  top  of  a 
bank  of  soil  about  the  hill  or  plant.  In  many  soils,  however, 
this  cannot  be  successfully  accomplished;  and  it  is  always 
somewhat  of  a  makeshift  method,  open  to  the  objection 
that  the  hollowed  hills  collect  water  when  it  rains,  and  are 
too  low  for  most  purposes.  One  of  the  various  types  of 
individual  forcers  to  be  bought  can  be  used  to  great  ad- 
vantage, particularly  when  only  a  few  are  required.  With 


PLATE  8. — When  transplanting  in  hot,  dry  weather,  make  sure  of  having  the 
plants  in  firm  by  packing  the  soil  close  about  the  roots  by  using  the  balls  of  the 
feet,  after  planting.  (Lower]  To  keep  plants  from  wilting,  shade  from  the  hot 
sun  with  newspapers,  held  in  place  with  a  little  soil. 


APRIL:  FIRST  WEEK  85 

care  they  will  last  a  great  many  years,  so  that  the  cost  is  by 
no  means  prohibitive.  Two  inexpensive  and  practical  forc- 
ing frames  adapted  to  such  tall  plants  as  tomatoes  may  be 
sawed  from  an  ordinary  cracker  box,  with  glass  about 
thirteen  by  twenty-two  inches  fitted  in  one  side.  For 
melons,  etc.,  they  may  be  made  flat,  as  shown  in  the  cut  on 
page  n. 

Labels  and  Markers 

One  of  the  little  things  commonly  overlooked  in  the 
garden  is  careful  marking  of  both  vegetables  and  flowers  in 
order  that  one  may  keep  tabs  on  varieties,  dates,  yields, 
colors,  and  so  forth.  How  often  one  sees  an  empty  seed 
packet  on  a  stick  or  held  down  by  a  stone  as  the  only  garden 
record!  It  does  not  take  long  to  learn  that  such  a  make- 
shift tag  will  be  blown  away  or  obliterated  by  the  mud  and 
rain.  When  a  hundred  eight-inch  garden  labels  can  be 
bought  for  thirty-five  cents  there  is  no  excuse  for  the 
gardener  who  does  not  know  when  and  where  he  has  put 
everything  that  grows  in  his  garden.  A  more  expensive  but 
more  convenient  form  of  label  is  a  small  card  which  is  held 
on  a  covered  plate  placed  at  a  convenient  angle  on  an  up- 
right iron  stake;  on  this  a  record  card  can  be  kept  plainly 
visible  but  protected  from  the  elements. 

If  you  have  not  made  a  planting  plan  in  advance  secure 
a  good-sized  armful  of  stakes — pieces  of  shingle,  or  kindling 
strips,  or  whips 
of  willow  or  birch 
—before  you  be- 
gin to  sow  seeds.  ^^^^  I) .11  V.  U  V  1 
Stick  them  up 

along  one  edge,  marking  off  with  each  the  space  for  one 
variety  of  seed. 

If  you  haven't  a  reel  and  a  marking  line,  by  all  means  get  a 
ball  of  stout  twine  and  a  couple  of  short  sticks.  For  rows  of 
plants,  or  for  such  seeds  as  are  not  planted  with  the  seed 
drill,  a  one-row  marker  may  be  made  by  nailing  or  bolting  a 
strip  of  inch  stuff  to  the  wheelbarrow  and  attaching  a  short 


86       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

chain  to  this  to  drag.  A  regular  marker  may  be  made 
easily  with  a  six-foot  strip  of  two-by-two-inch  pine  and  a 
half  dozen  twelve-inch  spikes.  Find  the  center  of  the  strip 
and  make  marks  six  inches  from  the  center  on  each  side; 
then  make  marks  every  twelve  inches  each  way  to  the  end. 
Bore  six  holes  slightly  smaller  than  the  spikes  and  drive 
these  into  place.  Fasten  a  handle  to  the  strip. 

Keep  the  Tools  Bright  and  Sharp 

Probably  nothing  will  so  cut  down  the  gardener's  work, 
take  it  the  season  through,  as  bright,  sharp  tools.  After 
using  them  wipe  them  off  with  a  few  old  pieces  of  burlap  and 
then  go  over  them  with  a  cloth  well  soaked  with  oil.  Have 
a  good  flat  file,  costing  fifteen  or  twenty 
cents,  with  which  to  "touch  up"  your 
hoes,  wheel-hoe  attachments,  and  so 
forth,  as  they  become  dulled  through 
use.  If  the  heads  of  any  of  your  tools 
become  loose  half  a  day's  soaking  in  a  pail 
of  water  will  usually  tighten  them  up. 
If  the  garden  is  not  handy  to  the  tool 


v 


shed  much  time  may  be  saved  by  getting 


a  substantial  dry-goods  box  of  conven- 
ient size,  fitting  it  up  with  a  pair  of  cheap  hinges  and  a 
couple  of  shelves,  and  giving  it  a  coat  of  paint;  it  will  make 
a  miniature  tool  house  to  be  kept  at  the  head  of  the  garden. 

A  simple  but  practical  garden  reel  may  be  made  as  fol- 
lows: Take  a  piece  of  inch  or  inch-and-a-half  hardwood  four 
inches  wide  and  eighteen  to  twenty-four  inches  long.  Make 
a  tapering  point  on  one  end,  and  in  the  middle  of  the  other 
end  bore  a  hole  large  enough  to  take  a  half-inch  bolt.  Make 
a  simple  spool  out  of  two  pieces  of  half -inch  stuff,  and  a  core 
of  two-inch  stuff,  round  or  square.  Through  the  latter  bore 
a  hole  in  which  the  half -inch  bolt  can  turn  easily  as  the  axis. 
You  will  always  know  where  to  find  your  line. 

Plant  supports,  to  be  used  for  tomatoes  and  such  plants 
in  the  flower  garden  as  may  need  low  supports,  may  be  made 


APRIL:  FIRST  WEEK  87 

of  wooden  barrel  hoops  and  laths.  Two  hoops  and  three  or 
four  laths  are  used  for  each  support.  With  shingle  nails 
fasten  one  hoop  near  the  ends  of  the  laths,  and  another 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  from  the  first  hoop.  Point  the 
other  ends  of  the  laths  so  they  may  easily  be  sunk  into  the 
ground  as  deep  as  may  be  required. 

A  support  for  tomatoes,  pole  beans,  etc.,  that  is  much 
better  than  the  ordinary  plain  stake,  is  shown  in  the  figure 
on  page  n. 


April:  Second  Week 

MAKING  NEW  PERENNIAL  GARDENS  AND  BOR- 
DERS; NEW  STRAWBERRY  AND  ASPARAGUS 
BEDS 

One  of  the  important  early  spring  tasks — a  good  job  for 
one  of  those  raw  days  when  it  is  too  bright  and  sunny  to 
stay  in  the  house  but  too  windy  and  cold  to  be  comfortable 
doing  ordinary  jobs  outside — is  the  making  of  any  new 
gardens  or  beds  that  may  be  desired.  The  regular  garden 
for  vegetables  or  flowers  has  to  be  prepared  every  spring; 
beds  for  perennial  plants  have  to  be  made  only  once  in 
many  years,  so  their  preparation  must  be  particularly 
thorough.  By  the  same  token  one  can  afford  to  take  the 
time  and  trouble  to  make  a  thorough  job  of  it.  A  well- 
made  asparagus  bed  will  last  ten  to  twenty  years.  A  thor- 
oughly prepared  hardy  border,  if  it  is  given  reasonable  care 
every  year,  will  last  indefinitely. 

The  most  favored  position  for  a  hardy  border  is  along  a 
walk  or  drive,  separated  from  the  edge  of  the  drive  by  a 
narrow  strip  of  sod.  Other  good  locations  are  in  front  of 
a  shrubbery  border,  or  along  a  wall  or  other  undesirable 
boundary  line,  where,  properly  planted,  the  plants  may 
be  made  to  serve  the  double  purpose  of  a  screen  and  of 
adding  to  the  apparent  size  of  the  place.  Small  beds  and 
single  clumps,  which  may  be  used  very  effectively,  deserve 
just  as  much  care  and  preparation,  but  be  careful  in  plan- 
ning them  to  avoid  getting  a  hole-in-the-lawn  effect  that 
will  spoil  the  appearance  of  any  place. 

The  border  may  be  made  either  in  full  sun  or  in  partial 
shade,  if  the  plants  to  go  in  are  selected  with  care.  But  at 
least  part  of  it,  to  grow  bright-colored  flowers  for  cutting, 
should  be  well  in  the  sun. 

88 


APRIL:  SECOND  WEEK  89 

Make  Sure  of  Good  Drainage 

The  soil  makes  little  difference,  except  that  it  must  be 
well  drained.  Most  perennials  will  not  live  where  water 
stands  at  or  near  the  surface.  There  are  of  course  excep- 
tions, such  as  iris  and  bog  and  semiaquatic  plants,  and 
these  should  be  used  when  drainage  cannot  be  provided. 

Before  work  is  begun  the  dimensions  and  shape  of  the 
border  should  be  carefully  lined  out.  A  quick  way  of  doing 
this  is  to  fill  an  old  watering  can  half  full  of  land  plaster  or 
lime  and  run  a  line  round  the  edge  of  the  proposed  bed. 
Usually  the  most  pleasing  and  graceful  effect  may  be 
achieved  by  having  the  border  somewhat  irregular  in  out- 
line. When  it  is  put  in  front  of  shrubs  it  will  naturally 
follow  the  curve  of  the  shrubbery. 

The  bed  should  under  ordinary  conditions  be  excavated 
to  a  depth  of  some  two  feet.  In  good,  rich,  well-drained 
loam  this  may  not  always  be  necessary,  but  usually  it  is 
advisable.  Sods  and  the  top  soil  should  be  thrown  in 
separate  piles  to  one  side  of  the  trench;  stones,  gravel  and 
subsoil  should  be  thrown  to  the  other  side.  If  the  soil 
below  the  excavation  is  stiff  and  hard  it  should  be  broken 
up  with  the  point  of  a  pick. 

In  refilling  the  bed  put  in  first  a  layer  of  drainage  ma- 
terial, which  may  be  clinkers,  coarse  gravel,  broken  brick, 
crushed  stone,  or  anything  of  that  nature;  then  a  layer  of 
sods  with  grass  sides  down  or  strawy  manure  or  leaves  that 
have  been  used  as  a  winter  mulch.  Unless  there  is  an  ample 
supply  of  humus  it  will  pay  to  keep  the  sod  to  chop  up  and 
mix  with  the  soil  where  the  plants  will  get  the  full  benefit 
of  it,  as  the  purpose  of  the  second  layer  in  the  trench  is 
merely  to  keep  the  soil  from  washing  down  through  the 
drainage  material. 

For  the  next  layer,  which  will  be  the  feeding  ground  for 
the  plant  roots  for  some  years  to  come,  mix  together  the 
best  of  the  soil,  the  sod  chopped  up  into  small  pieces  and 
one-third  to  one-half  as  much  manure  or  rich  compost. 
It  will  be  well,  if  possible,  to  have  a  generous  percentage 


go     •   AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

of  cow  manure  in  the  mixture.  In  addition,  mix  in  a  good 
supply  of  coarse  bone — the  grade  known  commercially  as 
"inch  bone"  being  the  best  for  this  purpose.  With  this 
mixture  the  bed  should  be  filled  to  within  six  inches  of  the 
top.  It  should  be  tramped  down  slightly  while  filling  in, 
so  that  it  will  not  lie  too  loose.  The  top  layer  should  be 
good  garden  loam,  preferably  run  through  a  medium- 
meshed  sieve,  into  which  a  good  dressing  of  high-grade 
fertilizer  or  fine  bone  is  mixed.  This  will  make  the  job  of 
plant  setting  very  easy  and  will  furnish  congenial  conditions 
for  the  little  new  roots.  (See  cut  on  page  300.) 

All  of  this  may  seem  like  a  good  deal  of  trouble  to  take 
for  such  a  simple  thing  as  a  hardy  border,  but  it  is  the  only 
way  of  making  sure  of  good  results.  Smaller  beds,  round 
beds  and  places  for  individual  clumps  should  all  be  prepared 
in  much  the  same  way.  When  only  a  few  plants  are  to  be 
set  a  hole  may  be  quickly  prepared  with  a  post-hole  digger. 

Flower  Beds  for  Annuals 

The  making  of  new  flower  beds  for  annuals  need  not  be 
done  so  thoroughly,  as  these  may  easily  be  enriched  every 
year  when  they  are  dug  up.  It  is  a  good  plan,  however, 
to  remove  four  inches  or  so  of  the  top  soil  and  to  mix  the 
manure,  compost  or  fertilizer  with  the  soil  below.  This 
will  put  the  richest  part  of  the  plants'  feeding  ground  well 
below  the  surface,  thus  inducing  the  roots  to  strike  down, 
keeping  them  farther  away  from  the  effects  of  dry  weather 
and  from  possible  injury  by  summer  work  in  the  bed. 

Neighboring  trees  are  often  the  cause  of  poor  results  with 
flowers.  Many  of  the  ordinary  fruit  and  shade  trees  send 
their  roots  thirty  to  forty  feet  in  search  of  food,  and  when 
one  of  them  runs  across  such  a  rich  pocket  as  is  furnished 
by  a  highly  fertilized  flower  bed  it  seems  to  make  itself  at 
home,  sending  out  a  mass  of  fine  feeding  roots.  Small 
roots  may  be  cut  off  with  the  edger,  shoving  it  down  eighteen 
inches  or  so  all  round  the  edge  of  the  bed.  The  larger  ones 
must  be  cut  back  with  an  ax. 


APRIL:  SECOND  WEEK  91 

Get  away  from  the  idea  that  the  bedding  plants  must  be 
placed  by  themselves  somewhere  on  the  front  lawn.  It, 
as  well  as  the  perennial  border,  may  be  fitted  into  the  gen- 
eral scheme  of  decoration.  There  is  a  big  variety  of  bedding 
and  annual  plants  to  select  from,  and  one  can  risk  experi- 
ments with  the  annuals  that  might  be  inadvisable  with 
perennials. 

Starting  the  Strawberry  Bed 

The  earlier  you  can  get  in  your  new  strawberry  bed  the 
better.  But  nothing  is  to  be  gained  by  rushing  the  job 
so  you  do  not  have  time  properly  to  prepare  the  soil.  It 
can  hardly  be  made  too  rich,  though  fresh  manure  should 
be  avoided.  The  best  place,  if  such  a  plot  is  available,  is 
where  other  heavily  manured  vegetables  have  been  grown 
for  a  year  or  two;  sod  ground  is  inadvisable,  as  it  is  more 
likely  to  be  infested  with  white  grubs — the  larvae  of  the 
common  June  bug. 

The  home  strawberry  bed  is  not  very  large,  and  as  the 
product  from  it  is  a  very  profitable  one,  at  store  prices,  you 
can  well  afford  to  be  generous  in  your  application  of  manure 
and  fertilizer.  Whether  you  get  your  plants  locally  or  order 
them  from  a  distance,  make  every  effort  to  have  the  ground 
ready  for  them  by  the  time  they  are  received.  If  by  any 
chance  you  have  to  keep  them  waiting,  loosen  the  bundles — 
but  don't  lose  the  tags — and  heel  them  in  a  shadow  trench 
in  a  shady  place,  moistening  the  soil  first. 

Either  the  hill  or  the  narrow  or  hedgerow  system  may  be 
used  to  advantage  in  the  home  garden.  The  former  will 
produce  the  finer  specimens  of  fruit,  but  the  runners  must  be 
kept  cut  off  without  fail,  so  frequently  the  hedgerow  sys- 
tem will  prove  more  satisfactory. 

In  hills  the  plants  may  be  set  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches 
apart,  in  single  rows  two  feet  apart;  or  in  narrow  beds  of 
three  or  four  rows  each.  In  the  row  system  they  are  set  a 
foot  or  eighteen  inches  apart  in  rows  two  to  three  feet 
apart.  In  this  system  three  or  four  of  the  first  runners  from 
each  plant  are  allowed  to  root,  but  are  turned  along  the 


92       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

row  to  keep  it  narrow.  Others  should  be  cut  off  as  they 
appear.  Keep  cleanly  cultivated.  If  the  weeds  are  allowed 
to  get  a  start  the  tangle  of  vines  and  weeds  will  very  quickly 
make  a  great  deal  of  work  to  save  the  crop. 

Strawberries  up  to  Frost 

The  fall-fruiting  berries  have  come  to  stay,  at  least  so 
far  as  the  home  garden  is  concerned.  There  is  no  reason 
why  you  should  not  have  good  berries  right  up  to  frost. 

Moreover,  you  can  get  a  crop  this  fall  from  plants  set 
out  this  spring.  Plant  and  treat  in  the  ordinary  way,  but 
keep  the  blossom  stalks  pinched  off  until  July.  Progressive 
is  on  the  whole  the  most  satisfactory  of  this  type  so  far 
developed.  Superb  is  another  good  variety,  with  extra- 
large  fruit. 

The  New  Asparagus  Bed 

If  you  have  been  putting  off  an  asparagus  bed  from  year 
to  year,  set  out  at  least  a  hundred  plants  this  spring.  As- 
paragus is  not  overparticular  about  soil,  succeeding  in 
any  good  garden  loam,  even  if  quite  light  and  sandy.  A 
good  plan  for  the  home  garden  is  to  make  a  bed  of  three 
rows,  as  long  as  may  be  needed  and  six  feet  wide,  putting 
one  row  in  the  middle,  and  one  a  foot  from  each  side.  Set 
the  plants  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  apart.  Good,  strong, 
selected,  one-year-old  roots  are  practically  as  good  as  two- 
year-old  roots,  but  it  is  not  always  possible  to  get  them. 
If  the  soil  is  in  good  condition  fair  results  may  be  had 
simply  by  setting  the  plants  out,  but  extra  preparation 
will  pay  well.  This  should  be  given  in  the  form  of  trench- 
ing each  row  to  a  depth  of  some  eighteen  inches,  and  put- 
ting in  the  bottom  a  generous  layer  of  manure  or  compost. 
Then  fill  with  soil  to  within  about  four  inches  of  the  top, 
plant  the  crowns,  spreading  the  roots  carefully,  and  fill 
in  more  soil,  leveling  up  to  the  surface  as  growth  proceeds. 


April:  Third  Week 

PUTTING  THE  HOME  GROUNDS  INTO  SHAPE; 
MAKING  WALKS,  ROADS,  CURVES,  AND 
GRADES.  FIRST  WORK  WITH  THE  LAWN; 
PROPAGATING  CANE  AND  BUSH  FRUITS 

Work  in  the  vegetable  garden  and  with  small  fruits  will 
occupy  most  of  this  month,  but  a  number  of  other  important 
jobs  can  be  fitted  in  between  times.  These  include  various 
little  tasks  of  the  spring  outdoor  housecleaning,  such  as 
fixing  up  the  lawn,  putting  the  roads  and  paths  into  shape, 
trimming  up  the  hedges,  and  so  on,  according  to  the  par- 
ticular requirements  of  the  individual  place.  Not  infre- 
quently there  are  lawns  or  hedges  or  paths  or  some  other 
features  to  be  remade. 

Often  the  appearance  of  the  grounds  can  be  improved  a 
hundred  per  cent  by  moving  a  few  shrubs  or  trees,  changing 
the  position  of  a  path  or  drive,  or  adding  a  hedge,  any  one 
of  which  may  be  done  with  comparatively  little  work  and 
expense. 

Sometimes  trimming  and  cleaning  and  pruning  will  make 
a  place  that  has  appeared  quite  neglected  look  as  well  as 
could  be  desired.  But  instead  of  going  at  the  thing  piece- 
meal, as  is  usually  done,  a  better  plan  is  to  start  at  one  side 
or  in  one  corner  of  the  grounds  and  do  everything  clean  as 
you  proceed.  Don't  overlook  the  little  things.  Spading 
up  the  soil  around  an  individual  shrub  in  a  neat  circle,  for 
instance,  takes  only  a  few  minutes,  but  adds  greatly  to  the 
well-kept  appearance  of  a  place.  When  things  are  not 
exactly  as  you  would  have  them,  the  new  work  should 
receive  first  attention,  because  the  sooner  it  is  done  the 
greater  is  the  chance  of  success. 

93 


94 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


APRIL:  THIRD  WEEK 


95 


96       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

How  to  Make  Curves  and  Grades 

One  of  the  first  problems  for  the  beginner  in  landscaping 
is  how  to  lay  out  any  proposed  change  that  he  wants  to 
make.  It  is  quite  likely  to  involve  the  construction  of  a 
curve,  a  rectangle  or  a  grade.  A  poorly  constructed  curve 
will  spoil  the  looks  of  any  job.  But  you  can  easily  get  it 
true  and  of  pleasing  form  by  the  following  simple  method: 
Get  a  piece  of  heavy  twine — or  better,  a  long  rope — and  a 
supply  of  short,  pointed  stakes,  preferably  of  even  size 
and  length.  Mark  the  ends  of  the  proposed  curve  and  two 
or  three  points  between,  and  put  in  stakes.  Go  along  the 
line  again,  putting  stakes  where  you  judge  the  curve  should 
come,  and  then  true  the  line  until  the  position  seems  about 
right.  Set  your  rope  round  the  outside  of  the  curve  and  this 
will  bring  out  more  clearly  any  imperfections.  The  rest  of 
the  job  will  depend  upon  the  person  using  the  edger. 

How  to  Make  a  True  Grade 

To  make  a  true  square  corner  of  a  flower  bed,  croquet 
ground  or  tennis  court,  you  must  use  a  little  simple  arith- 
metic. Mark  out  two  lines  form- 
ing the  corner,  getting  one  as 
nearly  perpendicular  to  the  other 
as  you  can  by  guess-work.  Now 
measure  off  accurately  from  the 
exact  corner  six  feet  on  one  line 
and  eight  on  the  other;  if  the 
length  of  the  straight  line  be- 
tween them  is  ten  feet  the  angle 
is  accurate;  if  not,  move  one  line  until  the  points  are  ex- 
actly ten  feet  apart. 

To  make  a  true  grade  you  will  first  have  to  determine  the 
form  you  want  by  making  a  sketch  on  paper.  Draw  a 
straight  line  between  the  highest  and  the  lowest  points, 
divide  it  into  a  number  of  equal  spaces  and  measure  the 
distance,  to  scale,  between  this  straight  line  and  the  curve 


GRADING  A  SLOPE 


APRIL:  THIRD  WEEK  97 

of  the  grade.  Then,  on  the  job,  drive  stakes,  stretch  a 
stout  cord  to  correspond  to  the  straight  line  of  your  sketch, 
and  drive  other  stakes  until  the  top  of  each  stake  is  the  cor- 
rect distance  below  this  line.  With  a  few  accurate  points 
to  go  by,  most  of  the  work  on  any  ordinary  small  job  can 
be  left  to  the  eye. 

Good  Walks  and  Roads 

Good  walks  are  an  important  feature  of  any  place,  both 
for  looks  and  for  comfort.  For  good  service  and  long  wear 
on  more  or  less  formal  grounds  a  cement  walk  is  perhaps  the 
most  satisfactory.  Under  ordinary  conditions,  however, 
it  is  not  so  attractive  as  other  walks  not  nearly  so  expensive 
to  construct,  and  which,  if  reasonably  well  done,  will  be  good 
enough  for  ordinary  conditions.  Of  these  the  gravel  walk 
is  about  the  most  pleasing  in  both  looks  and  service.  To 
last  satisfactorily  a  gravel  walk  should  have  a  foundation 
of  hard  dirt,  or,  in  light  soils  or  wet  ground,  of  coarse  rubble 
underneath  the  gravel. 

If  a  path  is  to  be  built  across  a  lawn  or  through  a  garden 
which  is  largely  turf  and  has  to  be  mowed,  some  form  of 
sunken  walk  is  preferable — flat  flagstones,  bricks,  or  cement 
blocks  may  be  used  to  form  the  steps.  The  cement  blocks 
should  be  two  to  three  inches  thick  and  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  square,  and  may  be  made  either  of  plain  cement  or 
inlaid  with  brick  or  stone  in  some  simple  pattern.  When 
sand  is  available  the  cost  of  these  blocks  is  very  little,  as 
the  simplest  kind  of  form  may  be  used,  and  after  the  cement 
has  set  enough  to  retain  its  shape  the  form  may  be  used 
again.  The  blocks,  after  hardening  for  forty-eight  hours, 
should  be  stacked  up  and  allowed  to  ripen  for  a  while 
before  being  used.  These  stones  or  blocks  are  set  about 
flush  with  the  grass,  which  may  grow  slightly  over  the  edges. 
They  look  well,  furnish  a  good  footing,  and  the  lawn  mower 
will  pass  over  them. 

For  short  walks  bricks,  preferably  set  on  edge,  may  be 
used  with  very  satisfactory  results.  Have  the  surface  upon 


98       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

which  you  lay  them  loosened  so  that  they  can  be  pounded 
down  into  it  with  a  wooden  mallet. 

The  construction  of  roads  is  a  more  difficult  task  and  one 
that  must  be  thoroughly  done.  An  ordinary  dirt  road, 
unless  it  is  naturally  high  and  dry,  should  be  drained,  pref- 
erably under  ground  along  one  or  both  curves.  Under 
ordinary  conditions  common  drain  tile  may  be  put  in  and 
will  give  satisfactory  results.  The  surfaces  of  all  roads,  and 
walks,  too,  should  be  slightly  convex  so  that  rain  will  run 
off  rapidly  to  one  side.  Roads  or  gutters  on  steep  grades 
or  on  light  soils  that  are  likely  to  wash  badly  should  be 
protected  by  cobbling. 

Sodding  a  Steep  Slope 

Steep  slopes,  especially  near  the  house,  should  be  graded 
and  kept  in  a  good  firm  sod  if  there  is  any  tendency  to  wash. 
Terraces  are  frequently  used,  but  banks  graded  to  even 
curves  usually  look  better  and  are  much  easier  to  care  for. 
Steep  slopes  are  often  difficult  to  seed  in  the  ordinary  way 
because  every  rain  or  wind  may  do  considerable  damage 
before  a  sod  is  formed.  In  such  cases  sodding  or  turfing 
must  be  resorted  to.  Sometimes  a  combination  of  sodding 
and  seeding  may  be  used.  This  is  accomplished  by  laying 
the  sod  in  strips  crossing  at  right  angles,  and  heavily  seeding 
the  intervening  spaces.  In  using  this  method  it  is  essential 
to  keep  the  ground  from  drying  out  until  the  sod  becomes 
established.  For  very  steep  grades  and  banks  where  sod 
put  on  in  the  usual  way  will  not  stick,  start  at  the  bottom 
of  the  bank  and  lay  the  sod  in  tiers,  with  the  edge  of  each 
tier  two  inches  or  so  back  of  the  edge  of  the  tier  below  it. 
Beat  the  surface  as  smooth  as  possible  with  a  spade  as  soon 
as  the  sod  is  in  place,  and  keep  well  watered  until  a  new 
surface  is  formed. 

First  Work  with  the  Lawn 

Early  in  the  spring  the  lawn  should  be  given  a  thorough 
cleaning  to  remove  the  winter  mulch,  if  any  was  used,  and 


APRIL:  THIRD  WEEK  99 

other  rubbish  that  may  have  accumulated.  Then  look  it 
over  carefully  to  see  how  much  repairing  is  needed.  If  it 
is  in  fairly  good  condition  about  all  the  care  required  will 
be  a  thorough  raking  with  an  iron  rake,  loosening  the  soil 
as  much  as  possible  without  tearing  up  any  grass  roots; 
sowing  seed  in  spots  that  may  look  thin;  applying  a  top- 
dressing  of  bone  meal  and  wood  ashes;  and  giving  a  thorough 
rolling  with  a  heavy  hand  roller,  or  in  a  small  plot  a  thorough 
firming  with  a  hand  tamp  or  the  back  of  a  spade. 

The  lawn  that  is  beginning  to  wear  out  will  need  more 
attention.  If  it  is  very  far  gone  the  easiest  and  best  thing  to 
do  is  to  plow  or  spade  it  up,  working  under  a  good  coating 
of  manure.  Make  the  surface  smooth  and  level  and  as  fine 
as  possible,  and  sow  seed.  Use  bone  meal  on  the  surface. 

A  lawn  that  is  bad  only  in  spots  may  be  put  into  condi- 
tion by  forking  it  up  where  the  sod  is  poorest  and  adding 
new  soil  where  it  may  seem  necessary.  Use  on  the  surface 
bone  meal  or  pulverized  sheep  manure  mixed  with  the  seed, 
as  it  is  essential  that  the  tiny  grass  plants  have  some  rich 
food  to  fix  upon  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  grow. 

Much  of  your  success  in  making  or  remaking  the  lawn 
will  depend  upon  the  quality  of  grass  seed  you  get.  Good 
seed  should  weigh  twenty  pounds  or  more  to  the  bushel. 
Buy  only  from  a  thoroughly  reliable  source,  as  weight  alone 
is  not  a  guarantee  that  the  mixture  contains  the  right  grasses 
in  the  right  proportions  for  lawn  purposes.  For  shady 
positions  a  mixture  adapted  to  such  conditions  must  be 
obtained,  for  even  good  seed  of  an  ordinary  lawn  mixture 
will  give  practically  no  results  in  a  shady  place. 

A  quart  of  good  seed  will  cover  about  300  square  feet. 
In  remaking  old  sod  use  only  about  half  as  much.  Select 
a  quiet  day,  preferably  just  before  or  just  after  a  rain,  and 
sow  as  evenly  as  possible.  Going  over  the  ground  twice, 
in  opposite  directions,  using  half  the  seed  each  way,  will 
do  much  toward  insuring  even  distribution.  Carry  the  seed 
in  a  box  or  a  pail,  not  a  bag,  so  that  you  can  get  at  it  readily, 
and  sow  it  in  small  handfuls,  being  careful  to  take  out  just 
about  the  same  amount  each  time. 


ioo      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

One  of  the  most  important  points  in  keeping  the  lawn 
looking  well  is  to  cut  out  all  weeds  and  wild  grasses.  An 
asparagus  knife  makes  a  good  implement  for  this  purpose; 
a  regular  weed  knife  or  spud  may  be  had  at  a  reasonable 
price.  For  the  small  lawn  an  old  kitchen  knife  will  do.  But 
cut  deep,  and  above  all  never  let  weeds  or  undesirable 
grasses  go  to  seed.  Some  of  the  worst,  such  as  crab  grass, 
are  annuals,  which  can  soon  be  bested  if  they  are  never 
allowed  to  seed. 

The  frequent  use  of  a  roller  is  one  of  the  most  effective 
means  of  getting  and  keeping  a  first-class  lawn.  Mow 
frequently,  but  not  too  close.  Have  neat,  well  kept  edges; 
an  edger,  which  may  be  bought  for  fifty  or  seventy-five 
cents,  and  a  good  sharp  hoe  are  the  only  tools  necessary. 
In  trimming  edges  a  mistake  very  commonly  made  is  to  go 
back  too  far  into  the  sod,  leaving  a  little  bank  of  dirt  several 
inches  high.  This  dries  up  very  quickly  and  is  easily  broken 
down  by  every  wheel  or  shoe  that  touches  it.  Keep  your 
roads  and  paths  as  narrow  as  possible.  They  will  look 
better  and  will  be  much  freer  from  weeds  or  grass. 

Propagating  Cane  and  Bush  Fruits 

The  cane  fruits,  such  as  raspberries  and  blackberries, 
often  increase  themselves  both  by  the  rooting  of  the  tips 
of  canes  where  they  touch  the  ground  and  by  increasing 
at  the  roots.  Consequently  in  an  old  bed  enough  strong 
young  plants  may  be  found  to  make  a  new  planting  in  the 
spring.  Or  the  tips  may  be  bent  down  to  form  new  plants, 
being  held  in  place  by  pegs  or  stones  and  covered  with 
soil.  Many  other  things,  such  as  currants,  gooseberries 
and  grapes,  may  be  layered  in  much  the  same  way.  Hard- 
wood cuttings  of  many  of  the  ornamental  shrubs  that  were 
made  last  fall,  and  have  been  wintered  in  the  cellar  or  out- 
doors under  a  mulch,  should  be  planted  in  an  upright  posi- 
tion in  a  long,  narrow  trench  or  furrow  where  drainage  is 
perfect.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  add  some  sand  to  the  soil. 
Put  the  heel  or  larger  end  down.  Such  cuttings  are  some- 


APRIL:  THIRD  WEES  ,  :.  .  :  191 

times  buried  for  the  winter  with  the  big  end  up  to  induce 
callusing.  Two  or  three  buds  or  eyes  should  be  left  above 
ground.  Stir  the  soil  about  the  cuttings  occasionally,  to 
prevent  the  formation  of  a  crust.  As  dry  weather  comes  on 
they  should  be  watered  once  in  a  while.  When  well  rooted 
they  may  be  transplanted  to  other  rows  or  into  pots,  or 
may  be  left  to  make  a  season's  growth  before  being  set  in 
permanent  places.  Plenty  of  room  should  be  allowed,  as 
some  of  the  more  rapid-growing  kinds  make  a  surprising 
growth  during  the  first  season. 


April:  Fourth  Week 

KEEPING  UP  WITH  GARDEN  SCHEDULE;  HARD- 
ENING OFF  PLANTS;  TENDER  PLANTS  IN 
PAPER  POTS 

After  all  the  early  crops  are  in,  the  gardener  sometimes 
waits  longer  than  he  should  before  putting  in  the  first  of 
the  tender  crops  and  succession  plantings  of  such  of  the 
early  hardy  crops  as  may  be  required.  The  tender  crops 
to  be  grown  from  seed — beans,  corn,  cucumbers,  melons, 
squash  and  pumpkins — should  be  timed  to  come  up  as 
soon  as  all  danger  of  late  frost  has  passed.  This  date 
cannot  be  fixed  exactly,  but  it  will  pay  to  take  a  chance  on 
the  first  planting.  If  the  ground  has  warmed  up  enough  to 
insure  germination  put  in  a  row  or  two,  or  a  few  hills,  a  week 
or  so  before  you  feel  quite  sure  that  the  season  has  settled. 
Jack  Frost  may  get  them,  but  what  of  it?  The  seeds  are 
cheap,  and  the  gardener  who  will  not  risk  five  or  ten  cents' 
worth  of  cucumber  seed  or  sweet  corn  fails  to  appreciate  the 
gentle  excitement  of  the  gardening  game. 

Nature's  seasonal  reminder  for  the  planting  of  the  tender 
crops  is  when  the  apple  trees  come  into  bloom,  or  when  the 
temperature  averages  fifty-five  to  sixty  degrees  in  the 
shade — from  the  first  of  May  to  the  first  of  June,  according 
to  latitude  and  season.  The  vegetables  to  be  included  in  the 
setting  out  of  these  groups  are  beans,  corn,  cucumbers, 
eggplants,  peppers,  muskmelons,  okra,  squash,  tomatoes 
and  watermelons.  Also  at  this  season  should  be  made 
succession  plantings  and  sowings,  for  transplanting  later, 
of  beets,  cabbages,  cauliflower,  carrots,  lettuce,  peas,  rad- 
ishes and  turnips.  The  second  plantings  of  these  things, 
which  are  for  summer  and  early  fall  use,  should  be  com- 

102 


APRIL:  FOURTH  WEEK 


103 


paratively  small.  Crops  for  the  winter  supply  should 
be  put  in  as  late  as  possible,  but  be  sure  they  will  have  time 
to  get  their  full  growth.  Fruits  and  vegetables  that  have  not 
quite  reached  full  maturity  keep  longer  and  better  in  storage 
than  those  that  have  made  full  growth.  Data  as  to  depth, 
distance  apart,  and  so  forth,  will  be  found  in  the  table. 


VEGETABLES 

SEEDS  OR 
PLANTS  FOR 
50  FEET  OF 
ROW 

DEPTH, 
INCHES 

APART 
IN  ROWS, 
INCHES 

ROWS 
APART, 
INCHES 

Beans,  early  
Beans,  wax  
Beans,  lima.  .  .  . 

i  pint 
i  pint 
i  pint 

1-2 
-2 
-2 

3-4 

33 
4-6 

18 

15-24 
18-24 

Beans,  pole  

y$  pint 

-2 

48 

48 

Beans,  pole  lima  .... 
Beets  

Xpint 
i  ounce 

-2 
-2 

48 

4-6 

48-60 
12-15 

Broccoli  

2C 

24-36 

24-36 

Brussels  sprouts.  .  .  . 
Cabbage,  late  
Carrots  

35 
25-35 
%  ounce 

K 

18 
18 
2-4 

24 
24-36 
12-15 

Cauliflower  
Corn,  early  
Corn,  main  crop  .... 
Cucumbers 

25 
Kpint 
Kpint 
y^  ounce 

K 

2 

I 

24 
36 
48 
48 

24-36 
36-48 
48 
48 

Eggplants  . 

2< 

24 

3O 

Lettuce  

%  ounce 

y2 

8-12 

12—1^ 

Muskmelons  

y£  ounce 

jj-i 

48-72 

48-72 

Peas,  late  
Peppers.  . 

i  pint 

2S 

3-4 

36-48 
24 

36-48 
30 

Pumpkins 

i^  ounce 

i 

72—  06 

. 

72—06 

Radishes  
Squash,  summer  .... 
Squash,  winter  
Tomatoes 

$4  ounce 
y*  ounce 
yi  ounce 
15—20 

K 
K-i 

i 

2-3 

36-72 
72-96 
36-4.8 

12 
48-72 
72-96 
4.8-6O 

Turnips  
Watermelons  

%  ounce 
Yi  ounce 

X 

#-! 

48-72 
72-96 

IS 

72-96 

Hardening  Of 

It  is  important  that  extra  early  plantings  of  both  plants 
and  seeds  be  made  in  a  sheltered  place — the  sunny  side  of  a 
six-foot  board  fence,  or  under  the  wing  of  a  building.  Also 
it  is  important  to  have  the  plants  thoroughly  hardened  off. 


104      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Plants  taken  directly  from  the  greenhouse  or  hot-bed,  where 
they  have  been  making  rapid,  watery  growth,  will  succumb 
to  a  low  temperature  much  more  quickly  than  those  that 
have  been  toughened  to  exposure  to  the  air  and  low  tem- 
peratures. This  is  no  less  true  of  the  tender  things  like 
tomatoes  and  egg-plants,  than  of  the  hardy  crops  such  as 
cabbage,  lettuce  and  beets,  which  were  set  out  last  month. 
It  often  happens  that  between  the  end  of  April  and  the 
middle  of  May,  after  a  comparatively  warm  spell,  a  frosty 
night  comes  along.  Several  expedients  that  may  be  fallen 
back  upon  in  such  an  emergency,  and  a  few  minutes'  work, 
will  often  suffice  to  save  the  early  plantings  of  wrinkled 
peas,  potatoes,  beans,  corn,  tomatoes,  peppers  and  egg- 
plants. The  things  in  rows,  like  potatoes  and  beans,  may 
be  covered  with  dirt  for  protection.  This  may  be  done  with 
a  double-wheel  hoe,  the  hilling  attachment  being  set  with 
the  points  out  so  that  a  A  -shaped  ridge  is  formed  over  the 
row.  To  protect  larger  plants,  newspapers,  either  laid 
across  or  twisted  up  into  cornucopias  and  held  in  place  by 
a  few  handfuls  of  earth,  will  be  found  very  effective.  Empty 
tin  cans  or  flower  pots  may  be  used  to  cover  small  plants. 
A  quickly  constructed  shelter  for  a  batch  of  plants  may  be 
made  of  a  few  boards  or  poles  rested  on  boxes  or  barrels, 
with  heavy  bags  or  blankets  thrown  over  them.  Any  plants 
that  get  nipped  should  be  kept  shaded  from  the  sun  the 
following  morning  and  thoroughly  doused  with  cold  water. 
If  irrigation  is  available  spray  the  plants  for  an  hour  or  so 
before  the  sun  hits  them  in  the  morning. 

Planting  in  Dry  Weather 

It  sometimes  happens  that  dry  weather  sets  in  after  the 
early  planting  has  been  done  and  the  surface  of  the  soil,  at 
least,  is  quite  dried  out  by  the  time  it  is  safe  to  put  in  the 
tender  crops.  Sometimes  it  is  so  dry  that  every  precaution 
possible  must  be  taken  in  order  to  secure  a  full  stand  from 
either  seeds  or  plants.  Then  the  gardener  who  has  pre- 
pared his  plot  thoroughly  and  has  kept  it  harrowed  or 
raked  over  whenever  a  crust  formed,  will  find  his  trouble 


PLATE  9. — No  tool  in  the  modern  garden  is  so  continually  in  use  as  the  combination  seed 
drill  and  wheel  hoe, — one  of  the  standard  types  of  which  is  shown  here.  With  only  a  few  minutes' 
work,  the  seeding  attachment  may  be  removed  and  the  wheel  hoe  frame  and  equipment  attached. 


PLATE  g.— Melons,  cucumbers,  squash,  lima  beans,  etc.,  may  easily  be  started  in  paper  pots  or 
dirt  bands,  without  transplanting,  for  setting  out  in  the  garden  as  soon  as  the  weather  permits 

Tomato  plants,— and  also  pepper  and  egg  plants— are  stronger  and  will  begin  growth  quicker, 
if  pot  grown,  like  those  in  the  right  hand  corner  above— the  roots  are  not  disturbed  when  you 
set  them  out. 

In  transplanting,  especially  in  dry  weather,  the  larger  leaves  should  be  cut  back  to  prevent 
wilting.  In  taking  the  plants  from  the  flats  or  frames  secure  a  good  ball  of  earth  with  each.  Plants 
properly  prepared  are  shown  in  the  lower  photo. 


PLATE  10. — A  good  compressed  air  sprayer  is  one  of  the  most  essential  imple- 
ments for  the  small  place.  The  type  shown  here  is  easy  to  move  about  and 
capable  of  taking  care  of  everything  from  the  rose  garden  to  the  full  sized  fruit 
trees  and  also  for  spraying  the  hen  house,  applying  white  wash  and  so  forth. 

The  great  secret  of  success  in  spraying,  is  to  be  ready  to  do  the  work  at  once, 
at  the  first  sign  of  insects  or  disease.  Keep  on  hand  an  assortment  containing 
the  things  you  are  likely  to  need  ready  for  immediate  use. 


APRIL:  FOURTH  WEEK  105 

amply  repaid:  beneath  the  dry  surface  the  soil  will  be  moist 
and  mellow. 

Six  weeks  ago  the  best  conditions  for  germination  were 
found  near  the  surface;  now  they  are  likely  to  be  found  as 
deep  as  you  can  get  without  covering  the  seeds  so  they  can- 
not push  through.  Plant  them  deep  in  the  moist  soil,  and 
if  the  weather  is  dry  make  the  soil  firm  about  the  seeds. 
This  may  be  done  by  pressing  them  down  into  the  drill  with 
the  ball  of  the  foot,  or  you  may  run  the  wheelbarrow  lightly 
along  the  row.  For  very  small  seeds  it  is  important  to  have 
the  surface  of  the  ground  rolled  down  hard,  so  the  capillary 
action  will  be  stimulated  instead  of  retarded,  and  the  mois- 
ture will  be  drawn  up  from  the  lower  part  of  the  soil  to  keep 
the  surface  moist  until  the  seed  has  germinated.  As  soon 
as  possible  after  germination  starts  a  surface  dust  mulch 
should  be  reestablished. 

In  summer  transplanting  every  possible  precaution  must 
be  taken  to  keep  the  plants  from  wilting.  As  the  roots  of  the 
plants  are  some  distance  below  the  surface,  it  is  not  neces- 
sary or  even  desirable  to  keep  the  surface  moist;  the  more 
thoroughly  the  dust  mulch  can  be  established  round  the 
plants  the  better  for  them.  The  soil  that  comes  into  direct 
contact  with  the  roots  should  be  moist;  if  necessary  pour  a 
little  water  into  the  bottom  of  each  hole  before  setting  the 
plants.  Plants  that  are  in  flats  or  in  pots,  or  in  the  soil  of 
the  seed  bed,  should  be  watered  thoroughly  some  hours 
before  transplanting.  The  large  outside  leaves  should  be 
cut  back  a  third  to  a  half — this  substantially  checks  the 
evaporation  that  causes  the  plant  to  go  down.  The  plants 
should  be  set  into  the  soil  very  firmly. 

In  the  home  garden  it  is  generally  possible  to  shade  the 
individual  plants;  this  may  be  done  by  the  same  method  as 
already  described  for  keeping  off  frost.  For  such  things  as 
celery  or  lettuce  set  in  a  continuous  row,  a  wide  board  may 
be  set  on  edge  along  the  row.  Transplanting  should  be  done 
late  in  the  afternoon  or  during  cloudy  or  wet  weather,  and 
watering  should  be  done  with  hose  or  watering  can  late  in 
the  afternoon.  • 


io6      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Start  Tender  Things  in  Paper  Pots 

If  you  have  a  cold-frame  or  a  hot-bed  by  far  the  surest 
and  in  the  end  the  easiest  way  to  start  all  the  vine  crops — 
cucumbers,  melons,  squashes — and  also  pole  beans  and  lima 
beans,  and  even  extra  early  sweet  corn,  is  to  make  use  of 
paper  pots  or  dirt  bands,  which  are  very  cheap.  Fill  these 
with  a  rich  compost  containing  plenty  of  humus — one-third 
old  crumbly  manure  and  two-thirds  garden  loan,  with  a 
little  sand  if  the  loam  is  heavy.  Plant  about  twice  as  many 
seeds  as  you  want  plants,  and  thin  them  as  soon  as  they  are 
well  started.  It  is  best  to  water  thoroughly  some  hours  be- 
fore planting.  The  pots  used  for  lima  beans  should  be 
watered  at  least  a  day  in  advance  and  the  beans  should  be 
pushed  in  eye  down.  No  more  water  should  be  applied  until 
they  are  well  up,  or  they  will  be  almost  sure  to  rot.  All 
these  things  will  sprout  and  grow  with  great  rapidity  in  the 
frame.  Two  to  four  weeks  is  ample  time  to  give  them,  as 
they  do  not  transplant  well  if  allowed  to  get  too  big.  Thin 
out  the  plants  in  each  pot  to  the  number  you  want  before 
they  get  too  large,  or  the  roots  and  tops  will  begin  to  crowd 
each  other. 

Here  are  a  few  suggestions  for  individual  crops: 

BEANS.  For  the  first  planting  use  the  lightest,  best- 
drained  soil.  If  the  weather  is  still  a  little  wet  and  cold 
plant  rather  shallow — only  an  inch  or  so  deep.  In  dry 
weather  plant  about  two  inches  deep.  Always  plant 
lima  beans,  either  pole  or  bush,  eye  down,  and  when  there 
is  no  immediate  prospect  of  rain.  Plant  the  pole  sorts  in 
hills. 

CORN.  In  the  home  garden  there  is  little  advantage  in 
planting  in  hills,  unless  the  ground  is  weedy  or  heavy.  As 
good  results  may  be  had  by  planting  thinly  in  a  continuous 
drill,  thinning  the  plants  to  about  a  foot  apart  in  the  row. 
This  gives  the  individual  plants  a  better  chance  for  develop- 
ment than  they  get  when  they  are  bunched  three  or  four  in  a 
hill. 

EGGPLANTS.    Do  not  set  out  until  all  danger  of  frost  is 


APRIL:  FOURTH  WEEK  107 

past.  Keep  well  protected  from  potato  bugs.  Give  plenty 
of  rich  compost  in  the  hills. 

OKRA.  Start  under  glass;  or  plant  in  rich  soil  in  hills  and 
thin  to  a  single  plant. 

PEPPERS.  Do  not  plant  until  thoroughly  warm  weather 
is  established  and  then  put  them  in  the  sunniest  position 
available.  Enrich  the  hills  well,  but  avoid  green  manure. 
Early  varieties  are  the  safest  in  northern  sections. 

TOMATOES.  Get  your  plants  as  big  and  as  strong  as 
possible  by  shifting  to  paper  pots  during  the  last  three 
weeks  before  setting  out,  so  that  they  may  have  blossoms 
or  even  small  fruits  before  they  go  into  the  garden.  As 
soon  as  they  are  set  out,  stake  them  to  prevent  whipping  by 
the  wind.  Keep  trained  up  from  the  beginning  and  cut 
off  most  of  the  side  suckers  as  soon  as  they  form. 


April -.Fifth  Week 

SPRING  AND  SUMMER  SPRAYING  FOR  FRUIT; 
STARTING  THE  VINE  CROPS  RIGHT 

The  day  passed  long  ago  when  spraying  was  either  an 
experiment  or  a  hobby  in  the  home  garden.  There  is  no 
reason  for  the  feeling  that  spraying  is  a  complicated  busi- 
ness, requiring  expert  knowledge  and  much  money.  By 
modern  methods  the  work  is  simple,  easy  and  efficient — 
particularly  in  the  home  garden,  for  which  small  amounts 
of  spray  materials  may  be  bought  in  the  most  convenient 
forms.  There  is  no  reason  why  one  should  not  make  his 
own  stock  solutions  of  Bordeaux  mixture  and  kerosene 
emulsion;  but  the  market  carries  satisfactory  substitutes 
that  require  only  mixing  with  water. 

Within  the  last  few  years  dry  dusting  has  been  making 
progress,  and  it  is  very  convenient  for  small-scale  opera- 
tions. Various  preparations  are  being  improved,  but  some 
have  proved  either  inefficient  or  injurious  and  you  will  be 
very  well  paid  for  the  time  and  trouble  you  may  take  in 
dropping  a  line  to  your  state  experiment  station  for  an 
expert  opinion  about  any  preparation  that  you  may  be 
thinking  of  using. 

There  is  no  use  in  doing  a  halfway  job  of  spraying.  In- 
sects multiply  so  rapidly  that  unless  you  get  practically 
all  of  them  your  time  will  be  absolutely  wasted.  Success- 
ful spraying  depends  upon  accuracy  and  completeness  along 
three  lines:  First,  using  the  special  spray  adapted  to  the 
purpose  in  hand;  second,  applying  it  at  the  proper  time, 
neither  too  early  nor  too  late;  and  third,  doing  a  thorough 
job.  It  is  necessary  to  cover  every  square  inch — branch, 
twig  and  leaf,  upper  and  under  surfaces — in  order  to  get 
satisfactory  results. 

108 


APRIL:  FIFTH  WEEK  109 

As  the  same  fruit  or  vegetable  is  often  attacked  by  a 
number  of  different  things  several  sprayings  may  be  neces- 
sary. Often  a  combined  spray  may  be  used.  But  do  not 
wait  until  you  need  to  spray  before  getting  your  things. 
Have  them  on  hand  early  and  ready  to  use  as  soon  as  con- 
ditions are  right. 

The  insects  that  attack  fruit  and  ornamental  trees  differ 
not  only  in  size  and  shape  but  also  in  their  manner  of  ex- 
tracting a  living.  Some  of  them  chew;  others  suck  the 
juices  from  below  the  outer  surface  of  leaf  or  bark.  Poisons 
will  end  the  chewers,  but  the  suckers  must  be  killed  by 
suffocation  or  external  injury.  Remedies  that  may  be  used 
successfully  in  the  winter  are  sometimes  too  strong  for  use 
in  summer,  when  the  trees  are  in  leaf  or  in  fruit.  So  a 
number  of  different  things  must  be  employed  to  get  the 
better  of  all  the  insect  enemies  and  the  various  forms  of 
disease  with  which  every  gardener,  no  matter  now  large  or 
how  small  his  place,  has  to  contend.  During  the  season 
you  are  pretty  sure  to  need  practically  all  of  the  following, 
and  it  will  save  time  to  have  them  on  hand. 

The  Sprays  You  Need 

BORDEAUX  MIXTURE.  This  is  the  standard  preventive 
against  blights  and  fungous  diseases.  It  may  be  bought  in 
commercial  forms,  or  a  stock  solution  may  be  made  at  home 
without  much  trouble.  It  is  frequently  used  in  combina- 
tion with  arsenate  of  lead  and  sometimes  with  Paris  green, 
thus  being  effective  against  both  diseases  and  chewing 
insects.  Make  a  stock  solution  at  least  half  a  day  before  it 
is  to  be  used.  The  method  follows: 

Dissolve  copper-sulphate  crystals  in  water  at  the  rate  of 
one  pound  to  one  gallon.  In  another  receptacle  slake  lime 
to  the  same  amount,  adding  the  water  a  little  at  a  time 
until  the  solution  is  of  the  consistency  of  thick  milk.  To 
make  ten  gallons  of  spray  dilute  one  gallon  of  the  stock 
copper-sulphate  solution,  straining  it  carefully;  then  dilute 
one  gallon  of  the  stock  lime  solution,  also  straining  it  care- 


no       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

fully,  and  mix  the  two  in  the  tank.  To  make  a  small  amount 
of  the  mixture  use  one  tablespoonful  of  the  copper  sulphate, 
one  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls  of  lime  and  one  gallon  of 
water.  From  time  to  time  add  water  to  the  stock  lime 
solution  to  keep  the  lime  at  the  bottom  covered. 

AMMONIACAL  COPPER  CARBONATE.  For  some  uses  Bor- 
deaux is  objectionable,  as  it  marks  the  foliage  and  fruit. 
As  a  substitute  under  these  conditions,  an  ammoniacal 
copper  carbonate  spray  may  be  used.  Dilute  three  pints 
of  ammonia  in  seven  to  eight  parts  of  water.  Make  a  paste 
by  mixing  six  ounces  of  copper  carbonate  with  water.  Mix 
the  two  until  well  dissolved;  then  stir  well  into  fifty  gallons 
of  water.  For  small  amounts,  use  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
copper  carbonate,  two  fluid  ounces  of  ammonia  and  two 
gallons  of  water.  This  spray  cannot  be  kept  and  must  be 
used  soon  after  mixing. 

KEROSENE  EMULSION.  This  is  an  effective  and  safe  spray 
to  use  for  sucking  insects,  San  Jose  scale,  plant  lice,  mealy 
bugs,  and  so  forth.  It  may  be  bought  in  commercial  form. 
To  make  at  home,  dissolve  a  half  pound  of  soap  in  one 
quart  of  water.  Add  one  gallon  of  water  and  two  gallons 
of  kerosene.  Place  in  a  pail  or  crock  and  churn  or  pump 
with  a  force  pump  until  a  thick,  lathery  cream  is  formed. 
For  small  amounts  use  two  cubic  inches  of  soap,  one  pint 
of  water  and  one  quart  of  kerosene.  For  use  in  spraying 
dilute  the  stock  solution  with  five  to  fifteen  times  as  much 
water.  For  dormant  growth  use  five  to  seven  parts  water; 
for  ordinary  purposes  ten  parts  water;  for  a  comparatively 
weak  spray  fifteen  parts  water. 

None  of  the  other  sprays  to  be  used  can  be  mixed  on  a 
small  scale  at  home  to  any  advantage.  There  are  good 
commercial  preparations  of  lime-sulphur  and  nicotine, 
ready  for  use  upon  the  addition  of  water.  Arsenate  of 
lead  and  Paris  green,  for  poisoning  chewing  insects,  are  too 
well  known  to  need  description.  The  former  is  the  best  to 
use  in  most  work,  as  it  sticks  and  may  be  used  without 
danger  of  burning  the  foliage. 


112       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

The  type  of  spraying  machine  to  buy  depends  upon  the 
amount  and  kind  of  spraying  to  be  done.  For  the  very 
small  garden  there  is  a  little  brass  hand  pump  that  does 
practical  work.  With  a  suitable  nozzle,  a  bucket  pump 
may  be  used  in  the  small  home  garden.  For  the  average 
garden  a  compressed-air  sprayer  will  be  found  most  con- 
venient. The  knapsack  type  is  preferred  by  some;  but  the 
air-tank  type  has  the  advantage  of  leaving  both  hands  free. 

Do  the  Work  on  a  Warm  Day 

When  many  trees  have  to  be  taken  care  of  a  barrel 
sprayer  is  the  one  to  get,  if  horse  and  wagon  are  available. 
Otherwise  a  hand  sprayer  of  the  new  wheelbarrow  type, 
which  has  large  capacity  and  can  be  moved  easily  from 
place  to  place,  will  be  found  the  thing.  You  should  have 
two  or  three  types  of  nozzles  for  the  different  kinds  of 
spraying  you  will  have  to  do,  and  an  extension  pole  of 
suitable  length  for  the  fruit  trees. 

A  few  points  about  spraying  must  be  kept  in  mind:  Be 
sure  that  you  have  the  spray  adapted  to  the  particular 
thing  you  are  trying  to  fight;  be  sure  that  the  material  is 
right  for  the  conditions  you  have  to  meet — kerosene  emul- 
sion or  lime-sulphur  that  would  be  right  to  use  in  winter 
might  be  strong  enough  to  ruin  your  trees  in  summer.  If 
possible  do  the  work  on  a  fairly  warm  day,  when  little  or 
no  wind  is  blowing,  though  you  must  not  delay  the  spray- 
ing to  be  given  just  before  the  blossoms  open  and  just 
after  they  fall.  Spraying  when  the  blossoms  are  open  is 
usually  undesirable.  There  are  a  few  days  after  the  petals 
fall  before  the  calyx  of  the  forming  fruit  closes;  to  be  effect- 
ive, spraying  must  be  done  while  the  material  has  access 
to  the  inner 'part  of  the  calyx,  and  while  the  forming  fruits 
are  still  turned  upward.  If  the  calyx  has  begun  to  close, 
'the  eggs  or  young  worms,  especially  of  the  codling  moth, 
will  be  protected  from  the  spray.  Sprays  like  Bordeaux 
mixture  are  efficient  only  when  all  foliage  and  stems  are 
kept  coated  with  the  mixture;  therefore  it  must  be  applied 


APRIL:  FIFTH  WEEK  113 

often  enough  to  take  care  of  new  growth  as  soon  as  it  is 
made. 

The  more  common  and  most  injurious  of  orchard  and 
fruit-garden  troubles  may  be  identified  as  follows: 

APPLE  SCAB.  Dark-green,  round,  furry  spots  on  the 
young  fruit;  worse  in  cold,  rainy  seasons.  Use  Bordeaux 
mixture  or  summer  lime-sulphur,  in  spring  or  summer. 

BLISTER  MITE.  A  spider-like  insect  causing  on  the  leaves 
light-green  blisters  that  turn  to  red  or  brown;  leaves  finally 
drop.  Use  strong  lime-sulphur,  miscible  oil  or  kerosene 
emulsion  in  early  spring. 

BUD  MOTH.  A  light-brown  caterpillar  about  quarter  of 
an  inch  long,  with  dark  head  and  legs.  Use  arsenate  of 
lead  or  Paris  green  as  buds  open. 

TENT  CATERPILLAR.  Hatches  in  early  spring  and  grows 
rapidly,  forming  tents  or  nests  in  the  crotches  of  trees. 
Wipe  out  or  burn  nests.  Use  arsenate  of  lead  or  Paris  green 
in  early  sprays. 

CANKERWORM.  An  " inch- worm"  that  attacks  apple 
trees.  Appears  in  May  and  June.  Use  arsenate  of  lead  or 
Paris  green  and  put  bands  round  the  trunks  of  the  trees  in 
April  or  May. 

CODLING  MOTH.  A  small,  dull-brown,  night-flying  moth; 
the  parent  of  common  apple  worms.  Except  in  the  north- 
ern sections  there  are  two  broods.  Use  arsenate  of  lead  in 
three  applications  and  apply  tree  bands  in  July. 

CURCULIO.  A  small,  gray-mottled,  shelled  beetle  with 
four  distinct  humps  on  its  back.  Attacks  practically  all 
orchard  trees,  drilling  holes  in  newly  formed  fruits  in  which 
the  eggs  are  laid.  Arsenate  of  lead  spraying  is  partly  suc- 
cessful; or  the  beetles  may  be  shaken  down  in  the  morning. 
A  weaker  spray  must  be  used  on  peaches  or  plums.  Lime- 
sulphur  acts  as  a  repellent. 

CURRANT  WORM.  A  small,  green,  greedy  worm  that  at- 
tacks gooseberries  and  currants.  Usually  appears  first  on 
lower  leaves.  Arsenate  of  lead  or  Paris  green  will  kill 
early  broods;  use  hellebore  for  later  ones. 

ELM-LEAF  BEETLE.  A  dull-yellow  beetle  about  three- 


H4      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

eighths  of  an  inch  long,  with  a  black  stripe  on  each  wing. 
The  old  beetles  feed  on  young  leaves,  eating  small  irregular 
holes.  In  May  and  June  they  lay  eggs  which  hatch  into 
larvae  that  do  the  real  damage,  making  the  leaves  turn 
brown  so  the  tree  looks  as  if  it  had  been  burned.  The 
larvae  pupate  in  the  ground  in  July,  and  in  a  few  weeks 
hatch  into  a  second  crop  of  beetles.  Spray  thoroughly 
with  arsenate  of  lead  when  the  leaves  are  well  out,  and 
again  as  the  eggs  hatch,  using  one  and  a  half  to  two  pounds 
to  fifty  gallons  of  water. 

LEAF  HOPPER.  A  blunt-headed,  long,  yellowish,  hopping 
beetle  that  lives  by  sucking.  It  works  on  the  under  side  of 
the  leaves,  causing  them  to  wither  and  dry  up.  Use  kero- 
sene emulsion  on  the  first  appearance  of  the  pest. 

SAN  JOSE"  SCALE.  The  most  destructive  of  all  the  scales, 
attacking  practically  all  fruits.  The  individuals  are  very 
small,  but  they  form  colonies  which  give  a  scurfy  ash-gray 
appearance  to  the  bark.  On  the  fruit  a  small  red  circle 
surrounding  the  scale  is  very  perceptible.  Dormant  or 
winter  sprays  are  the  most  effective.  Lime-sulphur  in 
early  spring  will  help. 

OYSTER-SHELL  SCALE.  This  is  larger  but  not  so  serious 
in  effect  as  the  San  Jose.  The  young  hatch  out  in  May, 
and  spray  should  be  applied  as  soon  afterward  as  possible, 
as  they  are  for  a  time  unprotected  by  the  scale.  Look  for 
yellowish  lice-like  insects  that  are  quite  active  for  a  short 
while  after  hatching  and  then  attach  themselves  to  one 
place.  Spray  also  as  for  San  Jose. 

BLACK  ROT.  This  appears  as  a  black  or  brown  decay, 
starting  in  a  small  spot  and  rapidly  spreading  until  the  fruit 
becomes  mummified.  Spray  grapes  with  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture until  the  middle  of  July,  then  with  ammoniacal  copper 
carbonate  solution.  If  you  have  only  a  few  vines  protect 
each  bunch  of  fruit  with  a  manila  bag.  For  plum,  peach 
and  cherry  trees  use  Bordeaux  mixture  or  summer  lime- 
sulphur.  Thin  out  any  fruits  that  may  touch. 

LEAF  BLIGHT.  This  attacks  the  newly  forming  leaves  of 
peach  trees  early  in  summer,  causing  them  to  shrivel  and 


APRIL:  FIFTH  WEEK  115 

color  and  drop  prematurely,  even  during  June  and  July. 
Use  of  lime-sulphur  before  the  buds  swell  is  effective.  After 
the  leaves  are  out  care  must  be  taken  not  to  get  the  spray 
too  strong. 

MILDEW.  For  most  forms  in  the  fruit  and  vegetable 
gardens  Bordeaux  mixture  is  effective.  For  gooseberries 
potassium-sulphide  spray  is  better. 

RUST.  This  attacks  various  things,  assuming  several 
forms  and  causing  a  burned  or  blighted  appearance  of  the 
foliage.  Use  Bordeaux  mixture,  lime-sulphur,  or  am- 
moniacal  copper  carbonate  solution. 

Start  the  Vine  Crops  Right 

The  vine  crops — cucumbers,  squash,  etc. — should  all  be 
planted  in  specially  prepared  hills,  whether  seeds  or  plants 
are  used.  These  hills  should  be  prepared  as  follows:  Mark 
out  rows,  four  to  eight  feet  apart  each  way,  according  to 
the  crop  and  variety  to  be  grown,  and  with  a  hoe  scrape 
out  hills  four  to  six  inches  deep  and  eighteen  inches  or  so 
across.  Into  each  hill  put  a  forkful  or  two  of  thoroughly 
rotted  manure  or  compost,  mixing  it  well  with  the  soil.  If 
no  manure  is  available  a  mixture  of  tankage  or  guano,  bone 
dust  and  cottonseed  meal  may  be  used,  two  or  three  hand- 
fuls  being  well  mixed  with  the  soil.  The  hills  should  be 
made  deeper  where  manure  is  to  be  used.  Then  fill  in  with 
good  soil  until  the  hill  is  as  high  as,  or,  if  the  soil  is  wet, 
slightly  higher  than,  the  soil  level,  but  flat  on  top. 

Plant  twelve  to  twenty  seeds  of  cucumbers  or  musk- 
melons,  eight  to  twelve  seeds  of  watermelons  or  summer 
squash,  and  six  to  eight  seeds  of  winter  squash  or  pumpkin. 

In  setting  out  any  of  the  vine  plants  from  pots,  even  when 
they  have  been  carefully  grown  in  dirt  bands,  the  job  must 
be  managed  carefully  or  they  will  wilt  badly.  Use  plenty 
of  water,  and  shade  for  a  day  or  two.  A  supply  of  tobacco 
dust  should  be  kept  on  hand,  so  that  the  ground  may  be 
sprinkled  as  soon  as  the  plants  begin  to  push  through,  and 
this  should  be  used  freely  from  then  on  as  a  preventive  for 
striped  beetle  and  other  enemies. 


May:  First  Week 

CARE  OF  ASPARAGUS;  RHUBARB;  SEA  KALE;  THE 
CANE  FRUITS;  GRAPES;  THE  NEW  STRAW- 
BERRY BED;  FALL  FRUITING  STRAWBERRIES 

Most  gardeners  find  it  more  interesting  to  plant  a  new 
crop,  or  start  a  new  bed  of  perennial  things,  than  to  take 
care  of  the  old  plants.  But  it  is  by  no  means  more  impor- 
tant. A  full  share  of  spring  attention  should  be  given  to  the 
permanent  crops — asparagus,  rhubarb,  sea  kale,  straw- 
berries, gooseberries,  currants,  raspberries,  blackberries  and 
grapes.  All  these  crops  must  be  grown  a  year  ahead.  To 
put  it  another  way,  the  amount  and  quality  of  the  crop  you 
get  this  year  depend  more  upon  the  way  you  took  care  of  the 
plants  last  season  than  upon  anything  you  can  do  now. 
By  the  same  token,  if  you  want  a  good  crop  next  year  you 
will  have  to  prepare  for  it  this  season.  This  does  not  mean, 
however,  that  you  can  neglect  the  plants  this  spring. 

A  well-made  and  well-cared-for  asparagus  bed  should 
last  fifteen  years;  many  beds  still  giving  good  yields  have 
been  cut  for  thirty  years.  But  these  have  not  been  neg- 
lected. If  a  bed  is  once  allowed  to  run  down  it  will  very 
quickly  run  out  entirely.  Work  should  be  begun  early  in 
spring.  If  the  bed  was  mulched  last  fall  the  manure  should 
be  worked  into  the  soil  as  soon  as  possible,  especially  be- 
tween the  rows.  A  mistake  commonly  made  in  taking  care 
of  asparagus  beds  is  to  sow  manure  or  fertilizer  directly 
along  the  row,  thus  inducing  the  roots  to  grow  near  the  sur- 
face, which  is  just  the  thing  that  is  not  wanted.  If  the 
bed  was  properly  planted  the  crowns  should  be  from  four 
to  six  inches  below  the  top,  so  the  whole  bed,  rows  and  all, 
can  be  worked  over  with  the  wheel  hoe  or  cultivator.  In  the 
home  garden  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  cultivate  deeply  between 

116 


MAY:  FIRST  WEEK  117 

the  rows,  and  shallow  enough  in  the  rows  so  that  you  will 
not  dig  into  the  crowns  or  break  many  of  the  large  fleshy 
roots.  But  go  over  the  entire  surface.  If  you  like  your 
asparagus  blanched  white  a  ridge  may  be  thrown  up  along 
each  row  at  this  time,  to  be  worked  down  later  when  you 
have  stopped  cutting. 

Even  among  authorities  there  is  some  difference  of  opinion 
as  to  the  best  time  to  apply  manure  and  fertilizer  to  the 
asparagus  crop.  But  all  are  agreed  that  a  great  deal  should 
be  used,  and  that  there  is  practically  no  danger  of  the  home 
gardener's  getting  on  too  much.  Commercial  growers  some- 
times use  as  much  as  three  tons  of  fertilizer  to  the  acre,  which 
would  be  sixty  to  seventy  pounds  for  a  ten-by-fifty-foot  plot. 
When  a  good  dressing  of  manure  is  used  it  is  not  necessary  to 
use  so  much  fertilizer.  A  high-grade  complete  fertilizer, 
with  an  analysis  of  4-8-10,  will  answer.  About  a  third  of 
the  fertilizer  and  manure  should  be  applied  when  the  bed 
is  worked  over  in  the  spring.  As  soon  as  the  shoots  start 
give  a  top  dressing  of  nitrate  of  soda — two  to  four  pounds  to 
a  ten-by-fifty-foot  bed — and  repeat  this  two  or  three  times 
during  the  cutting  season. 

Not  the  least  of  the  things  to  know  about  asparagus 
growing  is  proper  harvesting.  There  is  always  a  great 
temptation,  especially  during  the  first  two  or  three  seasons, 
for  the  gardener  to  keep  on  cutting  longer  than  he  should. 
Even  when  the  bed  is  well  established  the  cutting  season 
should  not  extend  more  than  six  to  eight  weeks,  and  half 
that  time  is  plenty  for  the  first  two  or  three  seasons. 

Cut  Regularly  During  the  Season 

In  cutting  care  should  be  taken  to  insert  the  knife  as  per- 
pendicularly as  possible  until  the  desired  depth  is  reached. 
If  the  knife  is  thrust  in  diagonally  some  distance  from  the 
stalk  you  run  the  chance  of  cutting  off  the  tips  of  other 
sprouts  that  are  just  starting  below  the  surface.  A  mistake 
commonly  made  in  the  home  garden  is  to  let  the  stalks  go 
for  two  or  three  days  if  they  are  not  needed  for  immediate 


Il8       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

use,  with  the  result  that  they  are  not  only  wasted  but  also 
use  up  the  energies  of  the  plant.  Cut  all  stalks '  as  soon  as 
they  are  large  enough.  If  you  stand  them  in  a  cool  place, 
with  the  butt  ends  in  cold  water,  they  will  keep  plump 
and  fresh  for  several  days.  During  the  cutting  season, 
which  usually  lasts  into  June,  the  bed  should  be  worked 
over  occasionally  to  keep  all  weeds  out  and  to  preserve  a 
dust  mulch.  Sometimes  a  few  spears  are  allowed  to  grow 
to  serve  as  traps  for  the  asparagus  beetle,  which  in  some 
sections  is  very  troublesome. 

As  soon  as  the  cutting  season  is  over,  the  balance  of  the 
manure  and  fertilizer  should  be  worked  in  and  the  last  dress- 
ing of  nitrate  of  soda  should  be  given.  Cutting  should 
always  be  stopped  if  the  shoots  appear  to  be  getting  tough. 
The  tops  should  be  cultivated  and  looked  after  as  carefully 
as  if  they  were  to  be  eaten,  for  their  function  is  to  store  up 
in  the  crown  material  for  the  next  spring's  supply  of  shoots. 
The  asparagus  beetle  may  be  controlled  by  spraying  with 
arsenate  of  lead.  In  a  well-tended  bed  asparagus  rust  is 
seldom  troublesome.  If  it  does  appear  mow  the  old  bed 
carefully,  after  the  tops  have  turned  brown  but  before  they 
become  brittle,  and  burn  them  carefully.  When  the  plants 
are  given  plenty  of  moisture  rust  seldom  appears.  The  beds 
may  be  mulched  or  not  in  the  fall,  but  do  not  put  on  fer- 
tilizer at  that  time. 

Spring  Work  in  the  Berry  Patch 

Whether  the  strawberry  patch  is  a  new  one  set  out  last 
month,  or  one  that  was  set  out  last  year  and  will  come  into 
bearing  for  the  first  time  this  June,  or  an  older  bed  that  you 
are  trying  to  keep  up  as  long  as  it  will  bear  satisfactorily,  it 
will  need  considerable  attention  if  you  are  to  get  really  good 
berries. 

The  newly  set  bed  should  be  kept  well  cultivated,  so  no 
weeds  will  have  a  chance  to  get  a  start.  Plenty  of  moisture 
is  required,  so  it  is  important  that  the  soil  mulch  be  kept  up. 
The  cultivation  may  be  quite  deep  at  first — three  inches  or 


MAY:  FIRST  WEEK  119 

so — but  as  the  plants  begin  to  make  strong  growth  and  fill 
the  soil  with  roots  only  surface  cultivation  should  be  used. 
When  a  horse  is  available  no  tool  is  better  than  a  twelve- 
tooth  cultivator,  with  a  leveler  attachment  in  the  rear; 
this  leaves  the  surface  almost  as  finely  pulverized  as  if  it 
were  raked.  When  the  hand  wheel  hoe  is  used,  the  wide 
hoes  or  sweeps,  which  cut  all  weeds  off  clean  over  a  strip 
of  considerable  width,  will  be  found  very  useful.  If  the 
plants  have  been  set  to  grow  by  the  hill  system  the  greatest 
care  must  be  taken  to  pinch  off  all  runners  as  soon  as  they 
form. 

The  very  finest  berries,  and  just  as  many  of  them,  may 
be  had  by  keeping  the  plants  single  and  throwing  the  whole 
strength  into  individual  crowns.  But  there  is  no  use  in 
attempting  this  method  of  culture  unless  you  are  willing  to 
tackle  the  task  of  keeping  the  new  runners  pinched  off.  In 
the  matted-row  system,  which  is  usually  followed,  the  first 
runners  from  each  plant  are  allowed  to  root,  being  spread  so 
that  the  plants  will  be  as  equally  spaced  as  possible.  After 
that,  the  runners  are  kept  cut  or  pinched  off,  so  that  an 
alley  for  cultivating  and  picking  is  maintained  between 
each  two  rows. 

If  your  bed  is  coming  into  bearing  for  the  first  season  push 
the  mulch  aside  gradually  when  there  is  no  longer  danger 
from  late  frost,  so  that  the  plants  and  fruit  stalks  will  grow 
up  through  the  mulch,  and  the  berries,  when  they  become 
heavy  enough,  will  lie  upon  it.  Moving  the  mulch  pre- 
maturely often  results,  if  there  is  a  late  frost,  in  the  loss  of 
practically  the  whole  crop.  Any  weeds  that  come  up 
through  the  mulch  should  be  removed  by  hand  to  prevent 
their  going  to  seed. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  are  through  bearing,  the  mulch 
should  be  removed  and  the  bed  should  be  given  a  thorough 
cleaning.  It  should  be  kept  clean  until  the  end  of  the  season, 
if  you  hope  to  get  a  good  second  or  third  crop.  Older  beds 
are  handled  in  much  the  same  way.  Sometimes  it  is  feasible 
to  cultivate  out  the  centers  and  in  this  fresh  soil  root  new 
plants  from  the  old  rows  on  either  side.  As  soon  as  the  new 


120      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

plants  are  well  established  cultivate  out  the  original  rows 
and  make  them  the  centers. 


Fall-Fruiting  Strawberries 

There  are  now  several  varieties  of  fall-fruiting  or  ever- 
bearing strawberries  that  are  decidedly  worth  cultivating,  so 
there  should  be  a  small  patch  of  them  in  your  garden. 
Plants  set  out  this  spring — it  is  not  too  late  to  set  them  now 
if  you  get  at  the  job  immediately — will  bear  this  fall.  They 
should  be  given  ordinary  methods  of  culture  and  any  flower 
stalks  that  form  up  to  the  middle  of  July  or  first  of  August 
should  be  pinched  out.  Besides  this  fall's  crop  the  plants 
will  bear  again  next  spring,  and  then  fruit  again  in  the  fall, 
although  of  course  to  get  the  largest  fall  crop  the  plants 
should  not  be  allowed  to  exhaust  themselves  by  fruiting  too 
heavily  in  the  early  summer.  Progressive  and  Superb  are 
the  best  varieties  so  far  developed. 

The  only  disease  likely  to  cause  trouble  with  strawberries 
is  rust  or  blight.  It  occurs  first  as  spots  on  the  leaves,  which 
turn  a  reddish  or  brownish  color  and  finally  die.  When  there 
is  reason  to  fear  it  spray  four  or  five  times  during  the  first 
season  with  Bordeaux  mixture;  spray  early  in  the  spring  of 
the  second  season  just  before  the  blossoms  open,  and  again 
just  after  blossoming.  Be  careful  to  set  out  only  clean, 
healthy  plants. 

Rhubarb  and  Sea  Kale 

The  rhubarb  patch  should  be  cared  for  in  much  the  same 
way  as  the  asparagus  bed.  It  will  not  pay  to  fertilize  so 
heavily,  but  the  few  plants  in  the  home  garden  are  not  likely 
to  be  harmed  much.  Early  in  spring  work  a  dressing  of 
manure  into  the  patch  and  give  it  a  generous  dressing  of 
nitrate  of  soda.  The  value  of  the  manure  comes  largely  in 
forming  a  moisture-saving  mulch  that  will  last  until  one  is 
through  pulling  the  stalks.  The  dressing  of  soda  should  be 
repeated  two  or  three  times  to  help  produce  stalks  of  the 


MAY:  FIRST  WEEK  121 

largest  size  and  best  flavor.  Break  off  any  seed  stalks  that 
appear.  Good  culture  during  the  latter  part  of  the  season, 
after  you  have  stopped  using  the  stalks,  will  tell  in  next 
year's  crop.  Fertilizer  and  manure  may  be  applied  during 
late  June  and  the  benefits  will  be  very  apparent  the  follow- 
ing spring. 

Sea  kale  is  also  grown  in  much  the  same  way  as  asparagus. 
To  be  of  good  quality  the  shoots  must  be  blanched  by  mak- 
ing a  mound  of  sand  or  soil  over  each  plant  in  the  spring. 
This  must  be  leveled  when  the  plants  are  allowed  to  begin 
to  grow.  Fertilizer  and  cultivation  should  be  given  for  the 
following  spring. 

The  Cane-  and  Bush-Fruits 

The  beds  of  cane  fruits  should  be  gone  over  in  the  spring 
and  all  old  canes  removed  if  this  was  not  done  in  the  fall. 
Of  the  new  canes  only  three  or  four  should  be  left  to  each 
plant.  These  should  be  headed  or  cut  back  to  induce  the 
growth  of  the  laterals,  which  bear  the  fruit,  and  to  make  the 
plants  more  self-supporting  in  case  trellises  are  not  used. 
Supports  are  preferable.  A  good  stout  stake  should  be 
used  as  a  support  for  each  plant,  and  the  canes  should  be 
tied  loosely  to  this  with  some  soft  material.  For  long  rows, 
a  convenient  method  is  to  stretch  two  parallel  wires  a  foot 
or  so  apart,  and  keep  the  growing  canes  between  these. 

Cultivation  should  be  frequent  but  very  shallow,  as  these 
plants  all  root  rather  near  the  surface.  They  all  require 
plenty  of  moisture,  and  manure  is  therefore  especially 
valuable  as  a  fertilizer.  Bone  meal  is  also  excellent.  The 
enemies  of  the  cane  fruits  do  not  do  serious  injury.  The 
most  serious  is  rust  or  blight.  All  diseased  plants  should 
be  carefully  cut  out  and  burned,  and  the  rest  of  the  plants 
sprayed  with  Bordeaux  mixture.  The  borer,  which  gets 
into  the  canes  and  burrows  up  the  center,  is  controlled  by 
cutting  out  and  burning  the  canes  as  soon  as  attacked. 
The  borer  is  the  larva  of  a  small  beetle,  and  is  active  in  mid- 
summer. 


122      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Gooseberries  and  currants,  to  produce  good  crops,  are 
insistent  upon  an  adequate  supply  of  moisture,  and  as  soon 
as  dry  weather  sets  in  they  should  be  mulched.  Both  should 
be  thinned  out  so  that  air  and  sunshine  have  free  ad- 
mission, and  trailing  branches  should  be  cut  off  well  above 
the  ground.  When  they  are  allowed  to  make  too  much 
wood,  and  become  brushy,  good  fruit  cannot  be  expected. 

During  the  summer  the  new  growth  on  currants  should 
be  gone  over,  and  all  except  the  few  branches  that  will  be 
wanted  for  fruiting  in  the  future  should  be  cut  out.  Those 
that  are  saved  should  be  cut  or  pinched  back  slightly  at  the 
tips,  which  will  check  growth  and  cause  them  to  ripen  up 
better  in  the  fall.  Black  currants  are  an  exception,  as  their 
fruit  is  borne  in  part  upon  one-year-old  wood.  Powdery 
mildew,  often  a  serious  trouble  to  gooseberries,  may  be  con- 
trolled by  a  spray  of  one  ounce  of  potassium  sulphide,  or 
liver  of  sulphur,  dissolved  in  two  gallons  of  water.  Use 
soon  after  mixing,  and  repeat  every  ten  days. 

A  Bag  Over  Each  Bunch  of  Grapes 

The  ground  should  be  worked  up  lightly  about  the  grape- 
vines and  some  manure  or  fertilizer  worked  in.  Bone  is 
especially  good.  A  little  later,  after  growth  starts,  all  eyes 
or  buds  appearing  below  the  laterals  to  be  trained  as  per- 
manent fruiting  canes  should  be  rubbed  off.  To  control 
black  rot  clean  up  the  ground  round  the  vines  early  in  the 
spring  and  burn  all  the  old  pieces  of  bark,  twigs  and  "  mum- 
mied" fruit.  A  Manila  bag  fastened  over  each  bunch  of 
fruit  will  give  protection. 


PLATE  n. — You  must  keep  your  bushes  well  pruned  if  you  want  good  cur- 
rants and  gooseberries.  Don't  make  the  common  mistake  of  merely  trimming 
back  the  whole  plant  like  a  hedge;  thin  it  out  back  to  the  back  base  of  the  plant, 
leaving  only  strong,  new  wood,  and  not  too  much  of  that. 


PLATE  12. — Don't  trust  to  the  general  appearance  of  your  plants  to  de- 
termine whether  they  are  free  from  insect  pests.  Examine  the  under 
side  of  the  leaves  frequently  and  you  may  discover  a  condition  like  that 
in  the  picture  above  where  the  white  fly  has  had  a  strong  start  with- 
out giving  any  indication  of  its  presence  to  the  casual  observer.  (Lower} 
A  compressed  air  sprayer  of  the  shoulder  strap  type  like  that  shown 
herewith  is  most  convenient  and  will  take  care  of  a  large  amount  of 
spraying.  Get  an  angle  nozzle  with  your  outfit. 


May:  Second  Week 

FLOWERS  FOR  THIS  SUMMER'S  BLODM.  PLANT- 
ING ROSES;  BABY  RAMBLERS;  DAHLIAS; 
ASTERS 

Probably  no  job  in  the  year's  round  of  work  gives  results 
so  certain,  so  immediate  and  so  satisfactory  as  setting  out 
growing  plants  from  pots  for  the  summer's  bloom.  The 
garden  that  is  bare,  brown  and  barren  in  the  morning  may 
by  the  use  of  a  few  dozen  geraniums  and  edging  plants  be 
transformed  into  a  beautiful  spot  by  afternoon.  But  the 
effects  depend  as  much  upon  the  way  the  plants  are  used 
as  upon  the  money  spent  for  them.  Setting  out  a  lot  of 
beautiful  plants  does  not  necessarily  make  a  beautiful 
garden.  In  nine  cases  out  of  ten  the  most  pleasing  effects 
are  produced  with  the  most  simple  use  of  materials — only 
one  or  two  colors  in  a  bed  and  the  most  simple  and  natural 
arrangement  of  the  plants. 

In  buying  plants  it  is  best  to  make  personal  selection, 
if  you  have  had  enough  experience  to  know  just  what  kinds 
of  plants  will  give  the  best  results.  Most  persons  insist 
upon  having  plants  that  are  in  full  bloom,  and  go  upon  the 
principle  of  "  the  bigger  the  better."  For  bedding  purposes 
a  plant  well  set  with  buds  is  much  better  than  one  in  full 
bloom,  and  so  long  as  it  is  stocky,  shapely  and  thrifty,  size 
is  of  secondary  importance. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  condition  of  the  roots,  which  are 
seldom  examined,  is  of  the  utmost  importance.  The  roots 
should  be  in  about  the  same  condition  as  in  the  case  of 
plants  ready  to  repot — a  good  ball  of  active,  light-colored 
roots.  If  the  plants  have  recently  been  repotted,  so  the 
root  balls  have  not  formed,  they  will  be  checked  consider- 
ably in  being  set  out.  If  the  plants  are  so  old  that  the  roots 

123 


124      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

have  become  stringy  and  tough  they  will  never  give  so 
satisfactory  results  as  actively  growing  young  plants,  al- 
though they  may  make  several  times  as  much  show  on  the 
greenhouse  bench. 

In  getting  your  supply  of  the  standard  things  try  a  plant 
or  two  of  some  of  the  newer  varieties.  A  good  plan  is  to  get 
these  in  small  sizes,  as  they  are  usually  expensive,  and  grow 
them  on  in  the  pots,  set  into  the  ground  throughout  the 
summer.  They  will  then  be  in  fine  condition  to  take  into 
the  house  in  the  fall  and  will  bloom  all  winter. 

Some  Good  Geraniums 

The  geranium  is  still  the  leading  bedding  plant.  One  of 
the  main  reasons  for  its  unceasing  popularity  is  its  health. 
But  the  spendid  new  varieties  of  this  old  favorite  are  not 
nearly  so  well  known  as  they  should  be.  Try  a  few  of  them 
this  spring.  If  your  local  florist  hasn't  them  in  stock  send 
for  a  few  from  some  reliable  seedsman.  They  will  not  only 
be  a  source  of  pleasure  this  summer,  but  if  looked  after 
with  reasonable  care  will  make  ideal  house  plants  next 
winter. 

Some  of  the  best  are  Marquis  Castellane,  deep  brick  red; 
Berthe  de  Presilly,  light  pink;  Dagata,  extra  large  clusters  of 
mauve  rose;  Mme.  Recamier,  one  of  the  best  of  the  pure 
whites;  Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill,  salmon-colored  single;  Snowdrop, 
white  single;  Paul  Crampell,  single  scarlet.  S.  A.  Nutt,  still 
the  most  popular,  dark  crimson  bedder,  and  Beaute  Poite- 
vine,  deep  salmon  pink  with  enormous  clusters,  have  re- 
tained their  lead  in  their  particular  colors  for  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  century. 

Though  the  geranium  will  stand  more  neglect  than  most 
flowers,  it  will  answer  most  readily  to  good  care  in  the  way 
of  feeding  and  cultivation.  The  only  thing  to  avoid  is  too 
much  nitrogenous  plant  food,  in  the  shape  of  manure  that 
is  not  thoroughly  decayed,  or  too  much  nitrate  of  soda. 
An  overdose  of  either  will  cause  too  many  leaves,  with  poor 
flowers. 


MAY:  SECOND  WEEK  125 

Set  Out  Potted  Roses  This  Month 

Of  all  summer-blooming  flowers  the  rose  is  still  without  a 
rival.  Yet  thousands  of  plants  set  out  each^year  never  give 
any  return  that  is  worth  the  original  cost  of  the  plant,  to 
say  nothing  of  the  time  and  care  spent  on  them.  The  rose 
is  easy  to  grow,  but  it  will  not  grow  itself.  Only  a  reason- 
able amount  of  care  is  necessary  to  get  satisfactory  results, 
but  without  this  care  there  will  be  no  results. 

This  month  is  the  best  time  to  set  out  roses  from  pots. 
These  potted  plants  give  the  most  satisfactory  results,  and 
are  being  used  more  and  more  in  place  of  dormant  stock 
that  has  to  be  set  early  in  the  spring.  From  plants  set  out 
in  May  you  may  get  roses  in  June — if  the  plants  are  good 
and  of  the  right  size,  and  if  you  give  them  congenial  con- 
ditions and  protect  them  from  insects. 

Of  course  you  must  exercise  care  in  buying  roses.  Prices 
vary  greatly,  but  you  cannot  afford  the  risk  of  being  guided 
by  price  alone.  Be  sure,  first  of  all,  that  you  deal  with 
houses  of  good  reputation;  then  carefully  compare  the  de- 
scriptions— size  of  the  pots,  age,  and  so  forth — before  de- 
ciding where  you  will  be  likely  to  get  the  most  for  your 
money.  A  dozen  good  plants  will  give  much  more  satis- 
faction than  three  dozen  poor  ones.  Do  not  lose  sight  of 
this  fact  if  tempted  by  low  prices.  On  the  other  hand,  you 
can  save  money  by  not  confining  your  order  to  the  newest 
varieties.  Some  of  the  comparatively  old  sorts,  such  as 
Frau  Karl  Druschki,  a  pure  white  rose  that  for  garden 
use  is  still  unsurpassed;  General  Jacqueminot,  crimson; 
Magna  Charta,  clear  dark  pink;  and  Eleric  Brunner,  bright 
red,  are  as  good  for  the  beginner  as  any  of  the  newer  varie- 
ties. 

All  those  named  belong  to  the  class  of  hybrid-perpetual 
roses,  which  are  the  hardiest  and  the  surest  to  give  results 
in  the  outdoor  garden.  They  bloom  only  once  in  the  season, 
with  possibly  a  few  scattering  blooms  in  the  fall.  The 
hybrid  teas  are  a  cross  between  the  hybrid  perpetuals  and 
the  tender  teas,  and  bloom  abundantly  in  June  and  more 


126      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

or  less  throughout  the  summer.  They  are  known  as 
" monthly  roses."  In  the  Northern  States  they  must  be 
given  protection. 

Among  the  popular  hybrid  teas  are  General  Me  Arthur, 
a  vivid  scarlet;  La  France,  satiny  pink;  Kaiserin  Augusta 
Victoria,  white,  tinted  with  lemon;  Killarney,  brilliant 
pink;  Lion,  deep  coral  pink;  Chateau  de  Clos-Vougeot, 
rich  scarlet  and  a  steady  bloomer.  Roses  grown  in  the 
standard  or  tree  form  are  very  effective.  Hybrid  per- 
petuals  are  the  most  satisfactory  for  this  purpose. 

The  tea  roses,  while  deliciously  fragrant,  are  not  so  hardy 
as  the  hybrid  teas  and  have  been  to  a  large  extent  super- 
seded. A  few  of  the  beautiful  sorts  that  are  suited  to 
garden  culture  are:  Harry  Kirk,  yellow;  Maman  Cochet, 
deep  rose  pink;  Souvenir  de  Pierre  Netting,  canary  yellow; 
White  Maman  Cochet;  William  R.  Smith,  pinkish  white; 
and  the  new  coppery  yellow  Lady  Hillingdon,  which  is 
proving  good  for  garden  use. 

Dwarf  Ramblers  for  Borders 

For  bedding  or  low  borders  or  where  roses  are  wanted  in 
combination  with  other  flowers,  the  Polyantha  and  dwarf 
rambler  roses  are  the  best  to  use.  They  are  the  hardiest 
and  the  most  steady  flowering  of  all.  Many  of  them  are 
only  eighteen  to  twenty-four  inches  high,  and  they  require 
practically  no  pruning  but  the  removal  of  old  wood  and  old 
flower  stems.  They  are  good  for  use  in  pots  as  well  as  in 
the  garden. 

When  your  rose  plants  for  the  new  bed  arrive  unpack  them 
carefully  and  examine  the  roots  to  see  if  they  have  become 
dry  in  transit.  If  so,  water  them  carefully  or  set  the  balls 
into  a  shallow  pan  of  water  and  let  them  absorb  enough  to 
get  thoroughly  moist  again  without  getting  muddy.  If 
the  plants  cannot  be  set  out  immediately,  keep  them  in 
some  place  where  they  will  get  plenty  of  air  but  will  be 
protected  from  the  wind  and  the  full,  strong  sunlight.  If 


MAY:  SECOND  WEEK  127 

they  cannot  be  planted  for  some  days  make  a  shallow 
trench  in  a  cold  frame  or  in  some  protected  spot  deep  enough 
to  hold  the  balls  of  earth  and  cover  them  in,  firmly  with  soil. 

Hybrid  perpetuals  are  usually  planted  twenty-four 
inches  apart,  and  hybrid  teas  eighteen  inches  apart.  In 
setting  them  out  the  top  of  the  ball  of  earth  should  be  set 
about  two  inches  below  the  soil  level.  Be  careful  not  to  use 
commercial  fertilizers  directly  in  the  hole.  A  little  bone 
meal  or  ground  bone  may  be  mixed  with  the  soil,  although 
it  is  better  to  do  this  a  week  or  so  in  advance. 

Without  doubt  the  greatest  cause  of  failure,  when  good 
plants  are  used,  is  careless  planting.  Three  essentials  to 
success  are:  Have  the  roots  in  proper  condition,  neither  too 
wet  nor  too  dry;  set  them  out  in  moist  soil — put  water  in 
the  bottom  of  the  hole  before  planting  if  the  bed  is  very  dry; 
and  set  the  plants  in  firmly.  Press  down  round  each  one 
with  your  full  weight  after  planting. 

After  planting,  the  only  care  necessary  until  blooming 
time  is  to  keep  the  plants  well  cultivated  and  well  sprayed. 
Every  ten  days  or  so  use  a  combined  fungicide  and  insecti- 
cide, such  as  Bordeaux  and  arsenate  of  lead,  or  some  similar 
preparation  that  will  not  be  so  conspicuous  on  the  foliage. 
This  spray  will  usually  prevent  mildew  or  blight,  and 
chewing  insects.  If  the  aphis  puts  in  appearance  spray  with 
some  form  of  tobacco  extract  or  with  kerosene  emulsion, 
or  use  tobacco  dust. 

Keep  up  with  the  Dahlias 

The  dahlia  is  an  old  favorite,  but  one  has  to  step  lively 
to  keep  up  with  it.  Few  plants  have  been  developed  into 
so  many  new  and  really  different  varieties  of  merit  during 
the  last  few  years  as  have  dahlias.  To  make  an  intelligent 
selection  among  the  bewildering  number  of  new  sorts, 
first  fix  in  mind  the  different  types:  The  cactus-flowered 
section,  which  is  the  most  popular,  has  long  frilled  or  curved 
petals,  which  are  much  more  graceful  and  airy  than  the 
older  forms.  The  peony-flowered  type  is  also  open  and 


128      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

graceful  in  appearance,  but  the  petals  are  much  wider  than 
those  of  the  cactus.  The  decorative  dahlias  are  more  stiff 
and  regular  in  form,  and  come  about  halfway  between  the 
cactus  and  peony  types;  and  the  show  dahlias,  the  older 
form,  are  so  formal  in  appearance  that  they  look  like  ar- 
tificial blooms. 

The  pompons  are  beautiful  little  dahlias  which  are 
valuable  for  many  purposes  on  account  of  their  small  size. 
The  collarettes  are  distinct  in  appearance,  the  flowers 
being  formed  by  a  row  of  broad  outer  petals  with  an  ir- 
regular collar  of  cactus-like  petals  inside,  round  the  heart  of 
the  flower,  and  usually  of  a  contrasting  color.  Many  of 
the  singles  are  very  beautiful  and  particularly  valuable  for 
cutting,  or  for  use  with  other  flowers  in  bouquets. 

Dahlias  may  be  bought  either  started  in  pots  or  as  dor- 
mant roots.  The  plants  should  not  be  set  out  until  all  danger 
of  late  frost  is  past.  The  bulbs  may  be  planted  two  weeks 
or  so  earlier.  Many  persons  make  the  mistake  of  planting 
the  whole  clump  of  roots  that  was  saved  from  the  year 
before.  These  clumps  should  always  be  divided,  if  the 
best  flowers  are  wanted,  even  if  you  have  to  throw  away 
three-quarters  of  the  bulbs  for  lack  of  room. 

Keep  a  piece  of  the  old  stalk  with  each  root  planted  to 
be  sure  that  you  have  an  eye  with  it.  The  root  should  be 
planted  three  or  four  inches  deep  and  laid  flat.  A  good 
plan  is  to  fill  in  only  part  of  the  covering  soil  at  first,  filling 
in  the  rest  as  the  plant  grows.  For  good  flowers  all  the 
shoots  except  one  or  two  should  be  pinched  out  as  soon  as 
they  are  well  started;  if  this  is  done  early  it  will  induce  the 
formation  of  strong  side  branches  low  down,  lessening  the 
danger  of  breaking  later  on.  For  extra  large  blossoms  the 
plants  should  be  kept  well  disbudded. 

Supports  of  some  kind  should  be  given  early  to  guard 
against  damage  by  heavy  winds  or  rains,  as  the  stems  are 
rather  brittle.  The  plants  should  be  set  several  feet  apart 
to  insure  plenty  of  room.  Dahlias  grow  well  in  almost  any 
soil  provided  plenty  of  plant  food  and  water  is  given.  They 
need  an  abundance  of  moisture,  no  matter  how  rich  the  soil 


MAY:  SECOND  WEEK  129 

may  be.  To  keep  up  the  quality  of  the  blooms  until  the 
end  of  the  season  the  plants  should  be  fed  after  they  have 
been  in  blossom  for  a  while  with  additional  dressings  of  bone 
dust  and  a  little  nitrate  of  soda. 

Buy  Early  and  Late  Asters 

The  aster  is  another  flower  which  if  set  out  now  will 
give  an  abundance  of  bloom  throughout  the  latter  part  of 
the  summer.  In  buying  plants  try  to  get  both  early  and 
late  blooming  types.  And  get  some  plants  of  a  named 
variety — they  will  be  worth  the  extra  price.  Though 
asters  will  grow  and  bloom  in  poor  soil,  they  will  respond 
readily  to  good  culture.  For  large  blooms  they  should  be 
kept  disbudded  and  given  plenty  of  plant  food  and  water. 

Usually  the  only  trouble  in  raising  them  is  the  aster 
beetle,  which  appears  after  the  plants  are  well  along. 
Heavy  applications  of  tobacco  dust  will  repel  him  if  used 
in  time,  and  if  there  are  other  plants  in  the  vicinity.  Arse- 
nate  of  lead,  used  extra  strong,  is  effective;  it  is  better  to 
spoil  such  flowers  as  may  be  open  than  to  risk  losing  the 
whole  crop.  Hand  picking  of  the  beetles  is  the  surest  and 
quickest  method,  and  if  there  are  not  too  many  plants  it  is 
to  be  recommended. 


May:  Third  Week 

FERTILIZING,  WEEDING  AND  THINNING  IN  THE 
VEGETABLE  GARDEN;  POINTS  ON  PICKING 

The  importance  of  side-dressing  and  top-dressing  growing 
crops  in  order  to  get  big  yields  is  not  generally  appreciated 
by  the  home  gardener.  Fortunately  he  needs  no  additional 
equipment  for  this  work  except  an  old  pail  and  the  knowl- 
edge of  what  to  use  and  how  to  use  it. 

Nitrogen  is  more  likely  to  be  deficient  than  any  other 
plant  food,  particularly  during  the  earlier  stages  of  growth, 
while  the  stalks  and  leaves  are  being  formed.  The  cheapest 
and  most  efficient  form  in  which  nitrogen  can  be  supplied  is 
by  the  use  of  nitrate  of  soda.  This  material  looks  and  acts 
like  coarse  salt,  but  contains  from  fifteen  to  sixteen  per 
cent  of  available  nitrogen.  The  result  of  an  application  of 
this  material  under  favorable  circumstances  is  often  dis- 
tinctly perceptible  in  twenty-four  hours.  It  should  be 
applied  only  in  very  small  doses,  otherwise  the  plants  will 
not  be  able  to  make  use  of  it  fast  enough  to  prevent  waste. 

For  most  garden  crops  two  to  four  applications  at  inter- 
vals of  two  weeks  to  a  month,  according  to  the  condition  of 
the  crop  and  the  length  of  time  normally  required  for  it  to 
mature,  should  be  made.  For  fruit  crops,  such  as  tomatoes, 
beans  and  vines,  the  last  application  should  be  made  at  the 
time  the  plants  are  coming  into  full  bloom — otherwise  an 
overgrowth  of  leaves  and  vine  may  be  induced  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  fruit.  A  leaf  crop,  such  as  lettuce,  cabbage  or 
spinach,  is  in  little  danger  of  getting  too  much.  Enough 
nitrogen  should  be  supplied  to  the  root  crops,  such  as 
onions,  carrots  and  parsnips,  so  that  growth  is  never 
checked.  More  nitrogen  should  be  supplied  during  a  dry 
season  or  in  a  garden  where  manure  has  not  been  used. 

130 


MAY:  THIRD  WEEK  131 

Nitrate  of  soda  is  very  powerful  and  it  often  causes  great 
damage  in  the  hands  of  a  careless  or  an  inexperienced 
gardener.  A  small  lump  of  it  will  burn  a  hole  through  a 
tough  rhubarb  leaf  or  will  kill  a  small  plant.  From  100  to 
200  pounds  an  acre — one  pound  to  each  200  square  feet — 
at  each  application  will  be  sufficient.  It  may  be  spread 
round  the  plants  and  hills  just  before  a  rain,  or  it  may  be 
dissolved  in  water — a  tablespoonful  to  a  ten  or  twelve  quart 
watering  can. 

Liquid  Manure  Gives  Good  Results 

Liquid  manure  is  also  rich  in  nitrogen  and  is  of  special 
value  for  backward  crops  or  flowers.  The  best  material  for 
making  it  is  cow  manure,  although  stable  manure  or  poultry 
manure  will  do.  The  main  objection  to  its  use  is  that  it  is 
disagreeable  to  handle,  but  this  can  be  to  a  large  extent 
eliminated  by  the  following  method: 

Get  a  large  barrel  or  a  keg  and  bury  it  a  third  or  a  half  in 
the  soil,  preferably  in  a  shady  spot,  and  of  course  as  much 
out  of  the  way  as  possible.  Fill  this  about  one-fifth  full  of 
manure,  and  add  water  until  about  two-thirds  full.  Use  this 
as  a  stock  solution,  adding  water  when  needed.  It  may  be 
taken  out  with  a  dipper  tied  to  a  wooden  handle  of  con- 
venient length.  A  dipperful  or  two  poured  into  a  watering 
can  full  of  water  will  produce  very  satisfactory  results. 
If  an  old  funnel  and  a  piece  of  coarse  bagging  are  kept  on 
hand  the  liquid  manure  may  be  strained,  and  this  will 
prevent  clogging  of  the  sprinkler.  Free  use  of  this  manured 
water  round  roses  and  other  flowers  for  cutting,  as  they 
begin  to  come  into  bud  and  bloom,  will  give  splendid  results. 

A  shortage  of  nitrogen  is  shown  by  a  lack  of  the  dark- 
green  color  that  normal  leaves  should  show.  If  an  applica- 
tion of  nitrate  of  soda  or  liquid  manure  does  not  cure  the 
trouble,  a  more  general  tonic  may  be  needed.  For  this 
purpose,  bone  flour  and  genuine  guano  are  good.  Being 
less  soluble  than  nitrate  of  soda,  they  should  be  stirred  well 
into  the  soil  by  cultivating. 


132  AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Potash  is  particularly  desirable  when  a  crop  does  not 
ripen  so  fast  as  it  should.  It  is  often  used  late  in  the  season 
round  small  fruits  or  in  orchards  to  hasten  the  ripening  of 
the  wood  as  well  as  the  crop.  Either  muriate  or  sulphate  of 
potash,  or  good  unleached  wood  ashes,  may  be  used  as  the 
top-dressing  under  such  conditions. 

Make  the  First  Weeding  Thorough 

The  most  critical  period  in  growing  most  of  the  vegetable 
crops  is  during  the  week  or  ten  days  after  they  break  ground. 
Every  hour  of  work  neglected  at  this  time  means  several 
hours  of  drudgery  later.  The  best  time  to  kill  weeds  is 
before  they  are  large  enough  to  be  seen.  With  the  wheel 
hoe,  iron  rake  or  ordinary  hoe  you  can  destroy  a  hundred 
weeds  that  have  just  sprouted  and  have  not  yet  got  their 
true  leaves  in  the  time  required  later  to  pull  out  half  a 
dozen  by  the  roots.  Weed  early — that  is  the  secret  of  being 
able  to  take  care  of  your  garden  with  the  least  possible 
trouble.  And  weed  clean. 

Presumably  your  garden  was  planted  on  a  freshly  raked 
surface.  Any  weeds  that  had  started  at  the  time  were 
destroyed,  so  vegetable  and  weed  seeds  had  an  even  start. 
But  some  vegetables  take  a  comparatively  long  time  to 
come  up — notably  onions,  parsley,  celery,  and  most  of  the 
root  crops.  It  is  therefore  a  good  plan,  if  the  rows  are 
plainly  enough  marked,  to  go  over  the  ground  between  the 
rows  before  the  seed  crops  are  up. 

In  any  case  you  should  begin  operations  as  soon  as  the 
vegetable  seeds  have  sprouted.  The  wheel  hoe  should  be 
used  and  care  must  be  taken  not  to  throw  any  dirt  over  the 
tiny  seedlings.  Either  the  disk  attachment,  or  hoes  with 
high  guards  at  the  sides,  should  be  used. 

The  first  hoeing  will  make  your  garden  look  very  neat  and 
clean,  but  don't  deceive  yourself — hand  weeding  will  be 
necessary  for  all  row  crops,  and  to  a  lesser  extent  for  the 
things  planted  in  hills.  This  hand  weeding  is  often  poorly 
done  in  two  respects:  Some  weeds  are  broken  off  instead  of 


MAY:  THIRD  WEEK  133 

being  pulled  out  by  the  roots;  and  strips  and  spots  of  soil 
where  there  are  no  weeds  at  all  are  left  undisturbed. 

A  row  gone  over  in  this  way  will  appear  thoroughly  done; 
but  every  weed  broken  off  instead  of  being  carefully  pulled 
out  by  the  roots  will  come  back  stronger  than  ever,  and  the 
spots  where  no  weeds  were  visible  are  likely  to  be  green  with 
them  within  a  week.  It  always  saves  time  and  work  in  the 
end  to  break  up  every  square  inch  of  crust  and  to  destroy 
every  weed  the  first  time  over.  A  small  hand  weeder  helps 
considerably  in  this  work — the  kind  with  a  strap  to  slip 
over  one  finger,  so  that  the  thumb  and  forefinger  can  be 
used  without  dropping  the  weeder,  is  a  most  convenient 
time-saver. 

"Thin  Out"  Early  for  Best  Results 

After  you  have  the  best  of  the  weeds,  the  next  thing  is  to 
thin  out  properly.  A  plant  out  of  place  is  a  weed,  and  every 
extra  onion,  carrot,  parsnip,  stalk  of  corn  or  cucumber  is  a 
thief  of  plant  food  and  room  and  should  be  pulled  up  before 
it  gets  big  enough  to  do  damage.  Beans  should  be  thinned 
to  three  or  four  inches  apart;  beets  to  three  inches  apart; 
carrots,  two  to  three  inches;  corn,  three  or  four  stalks  in  a 
hill,  or  eight  to  twelve  inches  apart  in  the  drill;  cucumbers, 
two  or  three  plants  in  the  hill;  kohl-rabi,  three  to  four  inches 
apart;  lettuce,  six  to  twelve  inches — by  thinning  out  first  to 
six  inches  and  then  using  every  other  plant;  onions,  two  to 
four  inches,  but  do  not  thin  out  until  the  maggots  have  got 
through  with  them;  parsnips,  three  to  four  inches  while  still 
small;  peas,  four  to  six  inches — where  the  seeds  have  come 
up  strongly  these  are  often  left  much  too  thick;  radishes, 
half  an  inch  to  an  inch  for  the  spring  sorts,  and  two  to  four 
inches  for  the  summer  and  winter  kinds;  muskmelons,  two 
or  three  vines  to  a  hill  as  soon  as  well  started;  squashes  and 
pumpkins,  two  or  three  vines  to  a  hill;  spinach,  two  to 
four  inches  except  New  Zealand,  which  requires  much  more 
room;  Swiss  chard,  six  to  ten  inches;  turnips,  three  to  four 
inches,  thinning  very  early,  especially  when  the  seeds  have 
come  up  thickly. 


134      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Make  Your  "First  Pickings'1  Early 

A  common  mistake  is  to  wait  too  long  before  eating  the 
various  vegetables.  Most  things  should  be  used  as  soon  as 
they  are  large  enough  to  pick.  Don't  wait  until  they  are 
as  large  as  the  ones  you  would  buy  in  the  market.  The  com- 
mercial grower  lets  his  things  attain  a  certain  size  because 
the  market  demands  that  size. 

Begin  on  your  bush  beans  as  soon  as  there  are  enough  to 
make  a  mess.  The  first  cabbages  may  be  used  before  the 
heads  have  become  solid.  Watch  your  cauliflowers  care- 
fully, tying  the  leaves  over  the  heads  as  soon  as  the  latter 
begin  to  form,  then  use  them  before  the  heads  show  the 
first  sign  of  breaking.  Begin  to  remove  carrots  as  soon  as 
they  are  a  half-inch  or  so  in  diameter,  which  will  leave  more 
room  for  the  others  to  grow.  Corn  should  be  allowed  to 
become  fairly  firm,  but  not  hard. 

Cucumbers,  after  the  first  two  or  three  pickings,  will 
probably  keep  ahead  of  the  demand,  but  keep  them  all  picked 
if  you  want  the  vines  to  continue  bearing.  Kohl-rabi  begins 
to  deteriorate  rapidly  soon  after  it  reaches  two  or  three 
inches  in  diameter.  You  will  have  to  use  lettuce  early  and 
fast  to  keep  some  of  the  last  heads  from  shooting  to  seed. 
Begin  on  the  peas  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough  to  pay  for 
shelling.  And  pull  radishes  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough 
to  wash. 

Swiss  chard  may  be  cut  every  few  days  if  you  take  only 
outside  leaves.  If  there  is  more  than  you  want  let  some  of 
the  plants  grow  and  use  the  large  mid-ribs  stewed,  like 
celery.  Use  the  turnips  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough  to 
peel  and  cook.  Summer  squashes  should  be  picked  before 
the  shells  begin  to  get  hard.  Tomatoes  may  be  picked  as 
soon  as  they  begin  to  color  up;  place  on  a  sunny  shelf  to 
ripen. 


May:  Fourth  Week 

CONTROLLING  INSECTS  AND  DISEASES  IN 
FLOWER  AND  VEGETABLE  GARDEN;  SPRAYS 
AND  SPRAYERS  AND  THEIR  USE 

There  are  a  few  standard  remedies  that  can  be  used 
successfully  against  most  garden  troubles — if  they  are 
used  in  time.  In  many  cases  prevention  must  be  relied 
upon  instead  of  cure;  this  is  particularly  true  of  the  diseases. 
Most  of  the  garden  insects  first  appear  in  small  numbers, 
and  propagate  on  the  plant,  so  you  must  keep  sharp  watch 
at  all  times.  Look  for  trouble  whenever  you  walk  through 
your  garden,  and  when  you  see  a  leaf  curled  up,  or  a  yellow 
spot,  or  a  plant  that  looks  a  bit  sick,  do  not  rest  until  you 
have  discovered  the  cause  of  the  trouble. 

First,  find  out  whether  the  trouble  is  caused  by  an  insect 
or  by  a  disease.  In  most  cases  an  insect  will  be  to  blame. 
There  are  three  general  divisions  of  insect  enemies:  The 
chewers;  the  suckers;  the  root  workers  and  borers. 

The  chewing  insects  are  readily  recognized,  as  the  results 
of  their  work  are  at  once  visible.  They  include  slugs  and 
caterpillars  and  such  pests  as  the  potato  beetle  and  the 
cabbage  worm.  Most  chewing  insects  can  be  successfully 
combated  with  poisons  applied  to  the  foliage  which  they 
eat. 

The  sucking  insects  include  scales  and  plant  lice  of 
various  kinds,  and  the  nymphs  or  young  of  some  of  the 
other  insects,  such  as  the  squash  bug  and  the  white  fly. 
These  must  be  either  asphyxiated  or  destroyed  through 
the  action  of  some  external  corrosive.  Neither  the  chewers 
nor  the  suckers  are  likely  to  do  much  damage  unless  al- 
lowed to  multiply,  which,  under  favorable  circumstances, 
they  do  with  the  utmost  rapidity. 

135 


136      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

The  root  workers  and  borers  are  the  hardest  to  get  at 
and  a  comparatively  few  of  them  can  do  great  injury. 
Among  these  are  the  blue  root  aphis,  the  cabbage  and 
onion  maggots,  and  the  squash  borers.  As  the  first  sign  of 
these  intruders  is  the  result  of  their  work,  the  time  has 
usually  passed  for  effective  remedies.  Preventives,  and  de- 
struction of  any  insects  that  may  appear  before  they  go  to 
any  other  plants  and  continue  the  damage  are  the  only 
courses  to  follow. 


Rogues1  Gallery  for  the  Vegetable  and  Flower  Garden 

APHIS.  Attacks  peas,  melons,  roses,  and  so  on.  Use 
nicotine  preparations,  or  kerosene  emulsion,  two  or  three 
applications  at  intervals  of  three  or  four  days,  reaching 
under  sides  of  leaves. 

ASPARAGUS  BEETLE.  Use  arsenate  of  lead  on  summer 
foliage;  cut  and  burn  all  vines  in  late  summer. 

ASTER  BEETLE.  Use  arsenate  of  lead,  strong;  or  pick  by 
hand  in  early  morning  while  bugs  are  still  groggy. 

CATERPILLARS.  Various  kinds  attack  cabbage,  tomatoes, 
tobacco,  and  so  on.  Use  arsenate  of  lead,  Paris  green  or 
hellebore;  or  pick  by  hand. 

CUCUMBER  BEETLE,  yellow  and  black  striped.  Use 
tobacco  dust  as  preventive;  beetles  carry  the  germs  of  wilt. 
Pick  by  hand  the  first  bugs  in  early  morning.  Spray  with 
nicotine  sulphate. 

CUTWORMS.  Fat,  sluggish,  ground  worms,  brown  with 
dark  stripes,  cutting  through  stems  of  many  plants,  espe- 
cially when  just  up  or  newly  set  out.  Trap  under  pieces  of 
shingle  or  flat  stones;  or  scatter  about  toward  nightfall  a 
mash  made  of  one  quart  of  wheat  bran,  one  teaspoonful 
of  Paris  green  or  of  white  arsenate,  one  teaspoonful  of  a 
cheap  molasses,  mixed  with  enough  water  to  make  a  mash. 
Careful  search  round  a  newly  cut  plant  early  in  the  morning 
will  usually  uncover  the  marauder  near  the  surface. 

FLEA  BEETLE.  A  small,  hard-shelled,  jumping  beetle, 
which  punctures  leaves  of  tomatoes,  potatoes  and  seedling 


MAY:  FOURTH  WEEK  137 

plants.  Use  tobacco  dust  or  kerosene  emulsion  on  seedling 
plants;  Bordeaux  and  lead  on  tomatoes  and  potatoes. 

MEALY  BUG.  A  scale-like  insect  with  cottony  covering, 
attacking  some  flowers.  It  seldom  appears  in  the  vegetable 
garden.  Use  kerosene  emulsion;  or  apply  alcohol  with  a 
small  brush. 

POTATO  BEETLE.  Use  arsenate  of  lead  or  Paris  green. 
On  eggplants  use  lead  only,  and  pick  by  hand. 

ROSE  BEETLE.  Pick  by  hand  and  use  strong  arsenate 
of  lead. 

SQUASH  BUG.  A  lively,  flat,  black  fellow.  Use  tobacco 
dust,  or  pick  by  hand  to  get  rid  of  old  bugs  and  eggs;  use 
kerosene  emulsion  or  nicotine  sulphate  for  the  young  ones. 

SQUASH  BORER.  Slit  stem  near  base  of  plant,  and  de- 
stroy the  borer.  Cover  wound  with  fresh  soil. 

WHITE  FLY.  Attacks  tomatoes,  vine  crops  and  some 
flowers.  Not  conspicuous  until  large  numbers  have  prop- 
agated. Use  tobacco  dust  as  repellent;  spray  with  nicotine 
preparations  and  kerosene  emulsion. 

MILDEW.  Attacks  cucumbers,  melons,  Lima  beans,  roses 
and  other  flowers.  Dust  with  flowers  of  sulphur  to  prevent 
spread.  Use  regular  Bordeaux-lead  spray  as  an  effective 
preventive  through  the  season. 

BLIGHT,  affecting  cucumbers,  potatoes  and  other  things, 
in  various  forms.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  frequently  enough 
to  keep  all  new  growth  covered.  Dust  with  sulphur-lead 
preparations. 

ANTHRACNOSE,  "leaf  spot"  or  "rust,"  attacking  beans, 
tomatoes,  celery  and  some  flowers.  Use  Bordeaux  mixture 
or  summer-strength  lime-sulphur;  or  ammoniacal  copper- 
carbonate  solution  to  avoid  stains  on  foliage  and  flowers. 

The  various  diseases  belong  to  two  distinct  classes.  Most 
of  them  are  parasitical — that  is,  the  effect  of  the  introduc- 
tion and  rapid  multiplication  of  some  injurious  bacteria. 
A  few  diseases  seem  to  attack  the  whole  plant  system  from 
root  to  the  tip;  these  are  called  "constitutional,"  and  little 
can  be  done  against  them  except  to  keep  the  plants  in  vig- 
orous growth  and  to  destroy  at  once  any  plants  infected. 


138      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

The  parasitical  diseases  are  also  difficult  to  control,  once 
they  have  been  allowed  to  get  a  start,  but  various  sprays 
are  effective  preventives.  Within  the  last  few  years  a  great 
advance  has  been  made  in  putting  remedies  into  con- 
venient forms  for  use  by  the  small  gardener,  and  also  in 
making  apparatus  to  apply  them. 

Own  a  Good  Sprayer 

Every  gardener  should  have  a  compressed-air  sprayer 
and  a  powder  gun  or  bellows  for  dry  dusting.  There  are 
a  number  of  cheap  blowers,  but  it  will  pay  better  to  invest 
a  dollar  and  get  a  substantial  one,  not  only  because  it  will 
last  longer  and  do  better  work  but  also  because  it  is  essential 
to  have  a  gun  with  which  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves  can 
be  reached. 

Dusting  with  the  powder  forms  of  materials  that  have 
been  used  successfully  for  wet  spraying,  such  as  arsenate  of 
lead,  has  been  developed  rapidly  within  the  last  few  years. 
It  is  proving  as  efficient  as  the  wet  spray  for  many  pur- 
poses, and  is  much  more  convenient  to  use  in  the  small 
garden. 

In  addition  to  the  sprayer  and  the  blower  take  half  an 
hour  off  some  time  and  make  the  following  apparatus  for 
hand  picking,  which  is  still  the  quickest  and  most  effective 
method  of  getting  the  best  of  some  pests,  such  as  mature 
squash  bugs,  rose  bugs,  aster  beetles,  potato  beetles  on 
eggplant,  and  so  on:  To  a  medium-sized  tin  can  fasten  a 
handle  eighteen  inches  long  at  an  angle  of  sixty  degrees, 
so  that  the  can  may  easily  be  held  level.  Fill  the  can  with 
kerosene  and  water.  Make  a  small  paddle,  pointed  at  the 
end,  and  with  one  flat  edge. 

With  sprayer,  blower  and  handpicker  you  will  be  pre- 
pared for  anything  in  the  way  of  an  insect  invasion  that  is 
likely  to  occur.  Ammunition  must  be  of  several  kinds,  to 
meet  the  different  methods  of  fighting  adopted  by  the 
enemy. 


MAY:  FOURTH  WEEK  139 

Ammunition  for  Garden  Pests 

For  chewing  insects  Paris  green  and  arsenate  of  lead 
are  the  standard  remedies.  The  latter  has  two  distinct 
advantages — it  stays  on  much  longer,  and  can  be  used 
without  the  danger  of  burning  the  foliage  that  always  ac- 
companies use  of  Paris  green.  Arsenate  of  lead  may  be 
had  in  either  paste  or  powder  form.  In  comparing  prices 
of  different  kinds  check  up  the  percentage  of  arsenic  oxide 
each  contains.  The  powder  is  equally  as  good  as  the  paste 
for  wet  spraying,  and  in  addition  can  be  used  for  dusting. 
In  the  latter  case  it  should  be  applied  while  the  foliage  is 
dry.  Hellebore  is  not  so  effective  as  either  Paris  green  or 
arsenate  of  lead,  but  it  washes  off  readily  and  is  therefore 
sometimes  used  on  half-grown  crops,  such  as  currants  and 
cabbage. 

For  sucking  insects  there  are  several  good  forms  of  in- 
secticides, most  of  which  have  some  form  of  nicotine  as  their 
chief  ingredient.  Usually  the  higher  the  percentage  of 
nicotine  the  more  economical  the  material,  even  though  it 
costs  more. 

Tobacco  dust  is  to  some  extent  effective,  but  it  is  par- 
ticularly useful  as  a  preventive,  not  only  of  sucking  insects 
but  also  of  most  of  the  chewing  bugs,  such  as  cucumber 
beetle,  squash  bug,  and  so  on.  If  used  freely  on  the  leaves 
and  about  the  plants  before  the  bugs  appear  it  acts  as  a 
repellent  that  is  well  worth  the  small  cost  of  using  it. 

Kerosene  emulsion,  which  may  be  either  made  at  home 
or  bought  ready  prepared  in  a  stock  solution  to  be  diluted 
with  water,  is  another  standard  remedy  for  sucking  insects. 
It  is  perfectly  safe  and  a  good  watering  will  remove  all 
traces  from  the  plant;  for  these  reasons  it  is  a  good  spray 
for  plants  near  the  house. 

Plant  diseases,  so  far  as  garden  work  is  concerned,  usually 
take  one  of  three  forms — blight,  or  yellowing  and  dying  of 
the  foliage;  mildew;  and  anthracnose,  or  spotting  and 
hardening  of  parts  of  the  leaves,  fruits  or  stalks.  The 
standard  remedy  for  fungous  diseases  of  this  sort  has  for 


140      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

many  years  been  Bordeaux  mixture.  This  may  be  made 
at  home,  but  for  use  on  a  small  scale  a  good  ready-prepared 
sort  is  more  satisfactory.  It  can  be  had  in  the  pure  form 
or  combined  with  arsenate  of  lead.  This  double  mixture 
is  effective  against  both  diseases  and  chewing  insects.  A 
double-barrelled  dry  spray  is  to  be  had  in  powdered  ar- 
senate of  lead  and  sulphur,  which  is  convenient  to  apply 
to  the  vine  crops. 

A  small  amount  each  of  arsenate  of  lead;  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture (or  the  two  combined);  tobacco  dust;  some  nicotine 
spray,  and  kerosene  emulsion  will  cost  little  but  will  furnish 
protection  from  all  the  troubles  likely  to  be  encountered. 
Most  of  these  things  will  keep  indefinitely.  The  important 
point  is  to  have  them  on  hand  to  use  at  once.  As  some  of 
these  things  in  their  concentrated  forms  are  deadly  poisons, 
they  should  be  kept  out  of  the  way  of  children.  In  using 
any  of  these  things  follow  directions  carefully.  Different 
makes  vary  considerably  in  analysis. 

Begin  early  in  the  season  to  use  a  combined  Bordeaux- 
and-arsenate-of-lead  spray  on  such  vegetables  and  flowers 
as  are  likely  to  need  it,  and  go  over  them  at  intervals  of 
ten  days  or  so  to  keep  all  new  growth  covered.  In  addition 
use  tobacco  dust  freely  wherever  trouble  from  bugs  or  plant 
lice  is  anticipated. 

Besides  these  precautions  remember  that  everything  you 
can  do  to  keep  your  vegetables  and  flowers  in  vigorous, 
growing  conditions  will  make  them  less  likely  to  be  attacked 
or  to  be  seriously  injured  by  the  attacks  of  either  insects 
or  diseases. 


June :  First  Week 

VEGETABLES  FOR  FALL  AND   WINTER: 
SUCCESSION  CROPS 

The  home  vegetable  garden  should  supply  the  table  not 
only  through  the  summer  months,  but  also  with  a  num- 
ber of  things  for  winter.  As  ordinarily  managed  it  often 
not  only  fails  to  do  this,  but  even  does  not  supply  many  good 
things  in  the  late  fall.  Careful  planning  and  prompt  action 
now  are  necessary  to  have  a  supply  available  from  next 
September  to  May. 

Among  the  vegetables  that  may  be  grown  for  winter  are 
beets,  Brussels  sprouts,  cabbages,  carrots,  cauliflower, 
celery,  parsnips,  potatoes,  pumpkins,  salsify,  squash  and 
turnips.  Crops  for  the  late  fall  garden  are  beans,  cauli- 
flower, corn,  cucumbers,  endive,  lettuce,  peas,  radishes,  and 
green  tomatoes  for  pickling  and  ripening  after  frost. 

The  secret  of  success  in  achieving  both  table  and  keeping 
qualities  of  winter  vegetables  is  to  have  them  at  the  right 
stages  of  development  when  stored.  The  most  common 
mistakes  are  too  early  planting  and  too  small  sowings  to 
allow  a  surplus.  To  keep  best  and  to  taste  best,  vegetables 
should  be  matured  but  not  fully  developed.  After  reaching 
maturity  vegetables  undergo  a  ripening  process  that  pre- 
cedes decay.  In  the  case  of  the  root  crops  this  is  accom- 
panied by  toughening  of  the  fibers,  "stringiness"  and 
general  deterioration  of  table  quality.  Even  small  Hubbard 
squashes  that  have  not  ripened  on  the  vine  keep  better  than 
fully  developed  fruits. 

Your  crop  for  winter  use  should  be  planted  with  the  idea 
of  having  the  vegetables  reach  good  table  size  by  the  date 
at  which  it  is  usually  advisable  to  harvest  for  winter  storage. 
This  time  will  vary,  of  course,  with  local  climatic  conditions 
just  as  spring  planting  does;  but  remember  that  the  later 

141 


142      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

the  spring,  the  earlier  fall  and  winter  crops  must  be  planted 
to  have  time  to  develop  before  freezing  weather.  The  dates 
at  which  it  is  safe  to  plant  various  winter  crops  in  the 
vicinity  of  New  York  are  given  in  suggestions  to  follow. 
In  the  latitude  of  Philadelphia  planting  may  be  delayed  a 
few  days  or  a  week;  in  that  of  Boston  planting  should  be 
done  a  week  or  ten  days  earlier. 

It  is  highly  important  to  select  varieties  suitable  for  late 
sowings.  An  error  in  this  respect  is  much  more  serious  than 
in  the  case  of  spring  sowings,  as  it  may  result  in  the  loss  of 
the  entire  crop.  By  using  early  and  extra  early  varieties  it  is 
often  possible  to  work  in  succession  crops  that  would  other- 
wise be  impossible.  In  rich  soil,  and  where  irrigation  can  be 
applied,  the  time  in  which  a  crop  can  be  brought  through 
may  be  calculated  almost  to  a  day.  Poor  soil  or  dry  weather 
at  the  time  of  sowing  may  delay  things  so  that  the  crop  will 
fail  to  come  through  on  time. 

Planting  in  Dry  Weather 

Success  in  sowing  or  transplanting  in  dry  weather  fre- 
quently hinges  upon  getting  the  soil  pressed  firmly  round 
the  seeds  or  plant  roots.  If  a  roller  is  available  it  may  be 
used  in  addition  to  the  roller  wheel  of  the  seed  drill;  or 
before  covering,  a  wheelbarrow  lightly  loaded  may  be  run 
over  the  rows  of  seeds,  like  peas  and  beans,  that  are  planted 
by  hand.  If  the  weather  is  so  dry  that  water  must  be  used 
in  transplanting  apply  it  in  the  holes  before  setting  the 
plants. 

A  number  of  plants,  especially  those  of  the  cabbage 
group,  are  sown  early  and  transplanted.  Success  with 
these  depends  to  a  great  extent  upon  getting  strong,  healthy, 
stocky  plants  to  set  out.  Sow  the  seed  thinly  in  rows 
twelve  to  fifteen  inches  apart,  or  better  in  hills  four  to  six 
inches  apart.  As  soon  as  the  seedlings  get  their  second  or 
third  leaves  thin  out  so  that  only  one  pknt  stands  in  a  place. 
Plants  so  grown  will  by  transplanting  time  have  stems 
thicker  than  a  lead  pencil.  As  the  flea  beetle  frequently 


JUNE:  FIRST  WEEK  143 

injures  seedlings  severely,  keep  them  dusted  with  land 
plaster  or  tobacco  dust  until  they  are  well  started. 

A  package  of  each  of  the  seeds  will  give  plants  enough  for 
the  medium-sized  home  garden.  To  insure  good  germina- 
tion, if  the  ground  is  very  dry,  mark  off  shallow  trenches  and 
run  the  hose  along  each  one,  refilling  it,  as  the  water  soaks 
away,  several  times.  Do  this  some  hours  before  planting. 
Information  about  the  winter's  vegetables  follows: 

BEETS.  When  July  is  likely  to  be  hot  and  dry  it  is  best  to 
sow  in  June.  In  light  soil,  plant  an  inch  or  an  inch  and  a 
half  deep.  Detroit  Dark  Red  and  Crimson  Globe  are  good 
sorts  for  storing.  Extra-early  sorts  may  be  planted  later. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS.  These  are  particularly  fine  for  late 
fall  and  winter,  as  severe  freezing  only  improves  their 
quality.  Sow  in  late  May  or  early  June,  and  handle  in  the 
same  way  as  cabbage.  Cutting  out  the  crowns  of  the  plants 
after  the  sprouts  have  formed  throws  strength  into  the 
development  of  the  heads.  Dalkeith  and  Danish  Prize  are 
good  varieties. 

CABBAGE.  Sow  from  the  last  of  May  to  the  first  of  July, 
according  to  the  local  season  and  the  variety.  Danish 
Ballhead  is  of  medium  size,  of  excellent  quality  and  one  of 
the  best  keepers.  Some  of  the  round,  hard-heading,  early 
sorts,  such  as  Glory  of  Enkhuizen  and  Volga,  may  be  grown 
in  a  shorter  season  than  the  standard  late  sorts  and  are  of 
more  convenient  size  and  of  better  table  quality.  The 
Savoy  type  is  unexcelled  for  flavor.  In  favorable  seasons 
practically  every  seed  will  germinate,  so  be  careful  not  to 
sow  too  thickly. 

CARROTS.  In  good  deep  soils  a  good  strain  of  Danvers 
Half  Long  is  unsurpassed.  In  shallow  soil  a  shorter  type, 
such  as  Chantenay,  will  prove  more  satisfactory.  To  be  sure 
to  get  the  crop  of  good  size  these  should  be  sown  in  Northern 
sections  during  June  or  early  July.  Early  varieties  may  be 
sown  later.  Thin  out  early  whether  you  have  a  surplus  for 
the  table  or  not,  as  small  ones  will  not  have  a  chance  to 
mature  as  they  do  from  the  early  sowings. 

CELERY.  Plants  for  the  early  fall  crop  may  be  set  out 


144       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

now.  Those  for  winter  should  be  set  late  in  June  or  in  July. 
As  the  rows  are  a  good  distance  apart  fertilizer  or  manure 
may  be  used  to  advantage  in  the  drill.  This  should  be 
mixed  thoroughly  with  the  soil  and  applied  preferably 
some  time  before  the  plants  are  set.  Soak  the  trenches 
thoroughly  before  planting  if  the  soil  is  at  all  dry.  If  the 
weather  is  hot  and  bright  shade  the  plants  with  wide  boards 
for  some  days.  Keep  well  cultivated  from  the  start. 

PARSNIPS.  If  these  are  planted  now  they  will  be  of  better 
table  quality  than  those  planted  in  spring,  as  overgrown 
roots  develop  undesirable  pithy  cores.  When  there  are  a 
few  rows  more  than  you  will  want  to  take  up  for  winter, 
leave  them  in  the  ground  for  spring  use. 

POTATOES.  Even  in  the  more  northerly  sections  potatoes 
for  winter  use  can  be  planted  as  late  as  the  Fourth  of  July, 
if  soil  conditions  are  favorable,  with  the  probability  that 
they  will  make  a  good  crop  before  killing  frost.  Even  if 
the  skins  have  not  become  hardened  when  dug  these  po- 
tatoes will  keep  excellently  and  will  be  particularly  good  for 
seed  for  next  year's  garden. 

PUMPKINS.  A  few  sugar  pumpkins  are  always  acceptable 
for  pies  at  Thanksgiving  and  during  the  first  part  of  winter. 
Sow  them  now  in  prepared  hills  between  the  corn  rows. 
They  will  make  a  good  start,  and  later  when  the  corn  is 
cut  off  they  will  have  full  sunlight.  Spray  the  young  plants 
to  protect  them  from  squash  bugs  and  black  cucumber 
beetles. 

SALSIFY.  This  is  one  of  most  delicious  of  vegetables 
available  for  winter  use  and  a  good  supply  must  be  sown. 
The  soil  must  be  deep  and  rich  to  grow  good  smooth  roots. 
On  account  of  the  peculiar  shape  of  the  seeds  it  is  difficult 
to  sow  evenly  with  the  drill.  The  small  amount  required 
for  the  home  garden  may  easily  be  sown  by  hand,  four  or 
five  seeds  to  the  inch.  Thin  to  three  inches  after  the  plants 
are  well  up. 

SQUASH.  When  space  is  limited  squash  may  be  planted 
between  the  corn  rows,  or  a  few  hills  may  be  placed  at  the 
edge  of  the  garden,  so  the  vines  can  run  out  on  the  grass. 


JUNE:  FIRST  WEEK  145 

In  a  very  small  garden  plant  Delicata  or  Fordhook,  either 
of  which  is  excellent  for  summer  use  and  also  keeps  well 
through  the  winter.  Fordhook  may  also  be  had  in  bush 
form.  Hubbard  and  Boston  Marrow  are  two  of  the  stand- 
ard winter  varieties  and  Deli- 
cious, a  newer  one,  is  of  superfine 
flavor.  Like  the  pumpkins,  early 
growth  must  be  carefully  guarded 
from  bugs.  A  few  bottomless  boxes  covered  with  mosquito 
netting  will  do  this. 

TURNIPS.  The  long  varieties,  of  the  rutabaga  type,  of 
which  there  are  some  new  varieties  excellent  for  table  use, 
should  be  planted  during  June.  The  round  yellow  and 
white  sorts,  such  as  White  Egg  and  Amber  Globe,  should 
not  be  planted  until  July  or  even  the  first  of  August,  if  the 
season  is  long,  as  they  develop  very  quickly  and  are  likely 
to  become  overgrown. 

Succession  Crops  for  the  Fall  Garden 

The  vegetables  which  by  successive  sowings  may  be  had 
in  fine  quality  up  to  killing  frost  include  the  following: 

BEANS.  Pole  varieties  such  as  Golden  Cluster  and  Old 
Homestead,  and  the  Limas,  of  which  Early  Leviathan  and 
Giant  Podded  Pole  are  two  of  the  best,  should,  if  planted 
now,  give  a  continuous  supply  during  the  late  summer  and 
fall.  If  the  bush  varieties  are  preferred  make  a  small 
planting  every  two  to  three  weeks  of  some  of  the  good  wax 
sorts,  such  as  Brittle  Wax,  Rustproof  Golden  Wax,  or  New 
Kidney  Wax.  Any  surplus  of  either  the  pole  beans  or  these 
may  be  kept  over  in  the  dried  state  for  winter  use.  Leave 
only  two  or  three  of  the  pole  beans  in  each  hill.  Thin  the 
dwarf  sorts  so  that  each  individual  plant  has  plenty  of 
room  to  develop. 

CAULIFLOWER.  To  have  a  supply  throughout  the  fall, 
it  is  best  to  make  two  separate  plantings,  one  in  early  June 
and  one  toward  the  end  of  the  month.  Snowball  and  Dry 
Weather  are  both  excellent  sorts,  the  latter  requiring  a  little 


146       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

longer  to  mature.  To  do  well,  cauliflower  requires  an  abund- 
ance of  moisture  and  the  plants  should  be  set  where  they 
can  be  watered  while  the  heads  are  forming. 

SWEET  CORN.  This  may  be  planted  until  the  Fourth 
of  July,  or  later  if  an  early  sort  is  used.  An  elevation  of 
twenty-five  to  fifty  feet  will  often  carry  it  safely  through 
the  first  frost,  which  is  frequently  followed  by  several 
weeks  of  good  growing  weather.  Corn  may  be  sown  in 
drills  and  the  plants  thinned  to  ten  to  twelve  inches  apart 
as  soon  as  well  started. 

CUCUMBERS.  It  often  happens  that  late  in  the  fall  the 
first  planting  is  used  up  except  for  a  few  yellow  and  over- 
ripe ones  that  are  useless  for  pickles  and  salad.  Sow  a  few 
hills  late  in  June  or  early  in  July.  Keep  the  plants  well 
covered  with  tobacco  dust  or  ashes  or  land  plaster  during 
early  growth. 

KOHL-RABI.  If  you  are  fond  of  this  vegetable  make  a 
sowing  in  early  June,  and  another  in  July  for  a  late  supply. 
They  should  be  used  before  the  outer  skin  becomes  hard 
and  while  the  bulbs  are  quite  small — not  more  than  three 
inches  in  diameter. 

LETTUCE.  During  midsummer  heat-resisting  sorts  such 
as  Salamander,  Brittle  Ice,  Deacon  and  New  York  should 
be  used;  although,  if  irrigation  is  available,  Grand  Rapids, 
Big  Boston  and  other  spring  varieties  may  be  grown  suc- 
cessfully. When  conditions  for  germination,  are  adverse 
success  may  often  be  had  by  shading  the  lettuce  patch 
until  the  plants  are  well  up.  Seed  sown  in  dry  soil  is  almost 
sure  to  be  a  failure,  but  by  watering  the  ground  before 
sowing  and  by  shading,  a  stand  can  generally  be  obtained. 

PEAS.  For  summer  planting  use  the  heaviest  soil  avail- 
able and  get  the  seed  well  down  into  the  ground — two  to 
two  and  a  half  inches  will  not  be  too  much.  Partially 
sprouting  the  seed  before  sowing  will  help  in  dry  weather. 
For  the  latest  sowing,  which  can  be  made  up  until  August, 
use  early  varieties,  such  as  Gradus  or  Little  Marvel.  Use 
kerosene  emulsion  or  some  nicotine  spray  to  control  plant 
lice. 


JUNE:  FIRST  WEEK  14? 

RADISHES.  The  spring  sorts  are  usually  of  poor  quality 
during  summer  and  better  results  will  generally  be  had  with 
some  of  the  larger  summer  sorts,  such  as  Chartier,  Crimson 
Giant,  or  White  Strasburg.  For  winter  radishes,  to  keep 
over  in  sand,  White  Chinese,  China  Rose  and  California 
White  Winter  are  good.  They  should  not  be  sown  until 
late  July. 

TOMATOES.  Like  cucumbers,  tomatoes  sometimes  "run 
out"  before  the  end  of  the  season.  Plant  a  dozen  or  two 
plants  in  late  June  or  July,  from  seed  sown  now,  and  they 
will  mature  fruits  before  frost  to  furnish  a  supply  of  green 
tomatoes  for  pickles.  The  largest  and  finest  fruits  should 
be  saved  for  ripening  in  a  cold-frame  or  in  straw  in  a  dark 
room  or  cellar,  so  that  ripe  tomatoes  can  be  had  for  a  month 
or  more  after  the  outside  crop  is  gone. 


June :  Second  Week 

FIGHTING  DRY  WEATHER:  MULCHING;  WATER- 
ING; MODERN  IRRIGATION 

Drought  is  only  the  acute  form  of  a  chronic  summer 
garden  disease — lack  of  soil  moisture.  Dry  weather  is  the 
most  insidious  and  the  most  effective  enemy  of  big  crops. 
Potato  bugs  may  cut  down  your  crop  of  potatoes;  possibly 
squash  borers  will  get  all  your  squashes;  but  dry  weather 
attacks  every  vegetable  in  the  garden  and  cuts  down  the 
yield  of  every  one. 

Lack  of  moisture  prevents  maximum  crops  more  often 
than  lack  of  plant  food.  Experiments  have  shown  that  a 
fifty  per  cent  saturation  of  the  soil  is  ideal  for  growth. 
During  June,  July,  August,  and  often  September,  probably 
not  one  garden  in  a  hundred  is,  under  natural  conditions, 
saturated  to  that  degree  a  quarter  of  the  time.  Therefore 
the  intelligent  gardener  will  endeavor  during  the  summer 
months  to  keep  up  to  the  highest  possible  point  the  amount 
of  moisture  in  his  garden  soil. 

Only  two  treatments  are  possible  in  fighting  dry  soil.  The 
first,  except  in  seasons  of  more  than  normal  rainfall,  can  be 
only  partially  successful  in  the  great  majority  of  gardens. 
It  is  to  handle  the  soil  in  such  a  way  that  every  drop  of 
water  is  conserved  and  utilized  as  efficiently  as  possible. 
The  second  treatment  is  to  add  water  by  artificial  means. 
Thanks  to  the  development  of  overhead  irrigation  during 
the  past  few  years,  it  is  now  possible  for  the  small  gardener, 
no  matter  where  his  garden  may  be  situated,  to  apply 
water  copiously  and  with  very  little  effort  to  his  growing 
crops,  provided  only  he  has  the  water  available  for  use. 

The  first  essential  in  conserving  such  moisture  as  Nature 
does  supply  is  frequent  cultivation,  with  that  particular 

148 


JUNE:  SECOND  WEEK  149 

aim  in  view.  By  the  time  the  dry  weather  sets  in  the  weeds 
should  be  pretty  well  under  control;  from  then  on,  cultiva- 
tion to  conserve  soil  moisture  by  creating  a  dust  mulch 
accomplishes  the  further  work  of  destroying,  practically 
before  they  get  a  start,  such  additional  weeds  as  may  sprout, 
and  of  keeping  the  earth  loose  and  open  so  that  the  air  can 
penetrate  readily — another  condition  essential  to  healthy 
plant  growth.  The  cultivator  should  leave  the  soil  finely 
pulverized  and  level.  For  most  crops  it  should  cut  not  more 
than  an  inch  or  two  deep.  Therefore  a  flat  blade,  or  a 
gang  of  broad,  flat  teeth,  should  be  used  in  preference  to 
the  regular  narrow  cultivator  teeth,  which  are  valuable  early 
in  the  season,  or  which  may  be  necessary  if  the  ground  has 
been  tramped  down.  Aim  to  keep  the  inch  or  two  of  soil 
on  the  surface  as  fine  and  dry  as  dust.  It  is  a  good  plan 
to  try  to  get  over  all  the  garden  once  every  week.  Use  the 
wheel  hoe,  working  round  the  plants  with  the  hand  or  a  small 
hoe  as  may  be  necessary. 

Mulch  to  Hold  Moisture 

For  some  of  the  vegetable  crops,  some  of  the  small  fruits 
and  many  of  the  flowers,  mulching  with  other  material 
is  effective.  Light,  strawy  manure  that  will  not  work 
into  the  soil  satisfactorily  may  be  used  in  this  way.  Such 
plant  food  as  it  contains  will  be  washed  into  the  soil  and 
made  use  of  by  the  hungry  plant  roots,  and  the  bulky 
part  of  it,  forming  a  thick  mat  over  the  soil,  will  readily 
admit  rain  or  water  from  above  and  hold  it.  Under  such  a 
cover  the  surface  of  the  soil  itself  decomposes  and  crumbles, 
releasing  the  locked-up  plant  food,  and  forming  an  ideal 
condition  for  strong  plant  growth. 

A  few  vegetables  that  particularly  require  moisture  and 
are  benefited  by  such  mulching  are  eggplants,  cauliflower, 
celery,  potatoes  and  tomatoes.  Currants  and  goose- 
berries appreciate  summer  mulching.  Roses  and  sweet 
peas  are  greatly  benefited.  Although  light  manure  is 
probably  the  best  material,  other  things,  such  as  grass 


i$o      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

clippings,  old  leaves,  straw,  old  winter  mulching,  and  so 
forth,  can  be  utilized  to  great  advantage  for  the  same 
purpose. 

The  Gentle  Art  of  Watering 

The  simplest  and  most  commonly  used  form  of  irrigation 
is  by  means  of  a  hose.  But  a  hose  outfit  costs  almost  as 
much  as  one  for  overhead  irrigation,  needs  to  be  replaced 
every  few  years,  and  requires  a  great  deal  of  labor.  By 
overhead  irrigation  the  water  is  applied  automatically, 
except  for  a  few  moments'  work  in  turning  the  pipe  every 
half  hour  or  hour.  The  outfit,  consisting  of  galvanized 
pipe  and  brass  or  nickel  nozzles  instead  of  rubber  hose, 
will  last  a  generation. 

As  a  hose  is  more  universally  used,  however,  some  sug- 
gestions for  applying  water  by  this  means  may  be  given. 
It  is  possible  to  do  more  harm  than  good  by  watering.  If 
you  are  going  to  water  a  crop  at  all  you  should  do  it  thor- 
oughly. A  slight  sprinkling  on  the  surface,  even  if  it  is 
given  daily,  is  of  little  use,  because  it  stimulates  the  growth 
of  roots  near  the  top  of  the  soil,  where  they  are  most  ex- 
posed to  the  effects  of  heat  and  dry  weather.  A  thorough 
soaking  once  a  week  is  much  more  effective  than  seven 
sprinklings. 

Water  may  be  applied  just  to  the  soil  or  over  the  foliage. 
In  the  former  case  the  quickest  and  best  way  is  to  open  up  a 
shallow  furrow  along  the  edge  of  the  row  and  to  turn  one 
end  of  the  hose  into  it,  letting  the  water  run  until  the  ground 
is  thoroughly  saturated,  and  then  throwing  the  earth  back. 
This  saves  labor  and  gets  the  water  down  to  the  roots.  But 
cover  up  afterward  with  pulverized  soil,  for  if  the  water  is 
allowed  to  run  on  the  surface  the  ground  will  cake,  both 
wasting  water  and  getting  the  soil  into  bad  condition. 
When  the  water  is  applied  over  the  plants  and  the  foliage  it 
should  be  broken  into  as  fine  a  spray  as  possible.  A  simple, 
twisted-wire  support,  which  may  be  purchased  for  a  quarter, 
will  hold  the  nozzle  in  any  position,  and  this  will  save  much 
time  in  watering.  If  the  pressure  is  sufficient  the  ordinary 


PLATE  13. — Modern  spray  irrigation  solves  the  problem  of  moisture  control 
for  both  vegetable  and  flower  gardens.  The  upper  illustration  shows  a  typ- 
ical circular  spray  system  at  work  on  a  vegetable  bed.  The  lower,  a  nozzle 
line  system  over  flowers.  In  either  the  gardener  can  have  rain  whenever  he 
wants  it. 


JUNE:  SECOND  WEEK  151 

types  of  lawn  sprinklers  may  be  used,  but  they  must  be 
watched  carefully  and  shifted  frequently. 

In  watering  flower  beds,  which  are  generally  rounded  up 
toward  the  center,  be  careful  that  most  of  the  water  does 
not  run  down  to  the  outer  edge.  Shallow  furrows  between 
the  rows  of  plants  will  hold  the  water  until  it  can  sink  into 
the  soil.  If  your  lawn  is  too  big  to  cover  at  each  water- 
ing establish  a  system  so  that  the  various  parts  will  be 
thoroughly  watered  in  turn.  Here  again  a  thorough  soak- 
ing once  a  week  is  better  than  a  daily  sprinkling. 

The  best  time  to  water  is  late  afternoon.  Either  wind  or 
sunshine  will  waste  a  good  deal  of  water  through  rapid 
evaporation.  Whenever  possible,  cultivate  the  ground 
soon  after  watering  to  reestablish  the  soil  mulch.  Individual 
plants  that  you  are  trying  to  nurse  along,  or  flowers  to  be 
grown  for  exhibition,  may  be  given  special  attention  by 
sinking  a  large  flower  pot  near  each,  with  the  hole  at  the 
bottom  loosely  corked.  Filling  this  pot  every  day  or  two 
will  keep  the  plant  supplied. 

Modern  Irrigation  for  the  Garden 

The  nozzle-line  system  of  overhead  irrigation  may  be 
installed  either  on  neat  posts  of  inch  gas  pipe  painted  green 
or  white,  or  hidden  along  a  fence,  on  top  of  a  pergola,  or 
along  the  edge  of  a  walk  or  curbing.  It  will  work  well  from 
a  considerable  height  or  within  a  few  inches  of  the  ground, 
provided  there  are  no  tall  plants  near  to  interfere  with  the 
streams  as  they  leave  the  nozzles.  A  small,  portable,  nozzle- 
line  watering  outfit  is  now  made  with  a  water  motor  at- 
tached, and  mounted  on  wheels,  so  it  may  be  moved  readily 
from  one  part  of  the  grounds  to  another  and  set  up  with  a 
few  moments'  work.  It  turns  automatically  and  requires 
no  attention  except  to  turn  the  water  off. 

Modern  irrigation  sprinklers  cover  a  circle  some  thirty 
to  fifty  feet  in  diameter,  and  make  a  very  efficient  portable 
watering  device.  For  larger  areas,  the  sprinklers  are 
placed  on  upright  pipes  or  " risers"  at  regular  intervals, 


i$2      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

so  that  the  whole  space  to  be  irrigated  is  watered  at  one 
time. 

For  the  vegetable  garden,  at  least  one  nozzle  line  the 
length  of  the  plot  should  be  fitted  up.  As  the  nozzles 
throw  twenty-five  feet  in  either  direction,  the  pipe  being 
turned  from  side  to  side,  this  line  will  cover  a  strip  fifty 
feet  wide.  If  the  garden  is  wider  than  this  another  line 
may  be  added  or  the  first  one  may  be  built  in  sections  of 
convenient  length  to  move.  A  twenty-foot  length  of  three- 
quarter-inch  pipe  weighs  only  about  twenty-five  pounds. 

At  the  head  of  each  line  of  nozzles  there  should  be  a  gate 
valve  to  control  the  water,  and  a  turning  union.  The  older 
types  of  nozzles  were  somewhat  given  to  clogging  up,  but 
in  the  newer  ones  this  difficulty  has  been  largely  overcome. 

The  various  items  required  for  a  line  of  the  nozzle  system 
are:  Gate  valve,  seventy-five  cents;  turning  union  and 
handle,  $1.75  to  $3,  according  to  type  and  finish;  nozzles, 
inserted  every  three  or  four  feet  in  the  pipe,  five  cents 
apiece;  and  three-quarter-inch  galvanized  pipe,  six  to 
eight  cents  a  foot.  To  get  your  nozzles  in  perfect  align- 
ment along  the  pipe  you  need  a  special  drill  fitted  with  a 
level  with  which  holes  are  drilled  after  the  pipe  is  in  place. 
For  a  few  hundred  feet  of  pipe  for  a  garden  you  can  have  the 
holes  drilled  and  the  nozzles  inserted  where  you  buy  the 
pipe. 

The  two  great  advantages  of  watering  with  overhead 
irrigation  are  the  tremendous  saving  in  time  and  the  fact 
that  the  water  is  applied  in  an  ideal  way,  falling  in  small 
drops  that  do  not  pack  the  soil  or  spatter  or  injure  foliage 
or  blossoms. 


June:  Third  Week 

SUMMER  WORK  IN  THE  ROSE  GARDEN:  INSECTS; 
DISEASES;  SUMMER  PRUNING;  KEEPING  CUT 
FLOWERS  FRESH 

Continued  attention  is  necessary  in  the  rose  garden  if 
you  would  make  sure  of  an  abundance  of  perfect  blossoms. 
No  matter  how  strong  and  healthy  the  plants  may  look, 
and  even  though  the  first  buds  may  have  opened,  serious 
injury  still  threatens  from  a  number  of  sources.  Protec- 
tion from  insects  and  diseases,  summer  mulching,  extra 
manuring,  summer  pruning,  training  new  growth,  and  so 
forth,  are  among  the  things  that  the  rose  grower  must  keep 
in  mind  and  give  attention  to  throughout  the  season. 

The  rose  is  liable  to  injury  from  many  insects  and  diseases. 
The  most  annoying  and  pernicious  intruders  are  the  rose 
bugs  or  rose  beetles.  These  insects  are  particularly  hard  to 
combat  because  they  generally  appear  when  mature  and 
ready  to  do  the  maximum  amount  of  injury  with  a  mini- 
mum susceptibility  to  insecticides.  If  neglected  they  will 
entirely  defoliate  even  large  plants.  The  first  attacks, 
however,  are  usually  confined  to  open  flowers  and  buds, 
particularly  of  light-colored  varieties.  The  beetles  are  most 
prevalent  in  sections  where  the  soil  is  sandy,  but  as  they 
can  travel  long  distances,  and  make  themselves  at  home  on 
wild  roses  as  well  as  on  the  cultivated  sorts,  few  localities 
seem  to  be  immune  from  their  attack. 

Paris  green,  one  pound  to  150  to  200  gallons  of  water, 
and  arsenate  of  lead,  five  pounds  to  fifty  to  seventy-five 
gallons  of  water,  are  effective  poisons;  but  Paris  green  is 
likely  to  injure  the  foliage,  and  arsenate  leaves  it  discolored. 
Unless  the  beetles  attack  in  overwhelming  numbers,  by 
far  the  quickest,  surest  and  least  injurious  method  of 

153 


154      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

getting  rid  of  them  is  "hand  picking."  This  should  be 
done  early  every  morning,  and  with  the  proper  equipment 
a  great  number  of  beetles  can  be  destroyed  in  a  very  short 
time.  An  old  cooking  vessel  with  a  handle,  such  as  the 
bottom  part  of  a  double  boiler,  is  just  the  thing  to  collect 
bugs  in.  It  should  be  rilled  about  a  third  full  of  water  and 
kerosene.  From  a  piece  of  shingle  whittle  out  a  pointed 
paddle,  which  may  be  used  to  dislodge  the  beetles.  If  this 
work  is  done  regularly  every  morning  when  the  beetles  first 
put  in  an  appearance  you  will  not  have  much  difficulty  in 
getting  the  best  of  them. 

The  rose  slug  is  often  troublesome.  This  is  a  small  green 
worm  that  works  on  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves,  eating 
through  and  leaving  only  skeletons.  Birds  generally  keep 
the  slugs  under  control,  but  if  they  get  numerous  enough 
to  prove  injurious,  hellebore,  either  dusted  or  sprayed,  will 
get  them.  Be  sure  that  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves  are 
covered.  Hellebore  may  be  dusted  on  pure,  or  mixed  with 
boiling  water,  a  tablespoonful  to  two  gallons,  and  used  when 
cool.  Arsenate  of  lead  powder  is  also  effective  and  may 
be  dusted  on  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves  with  a  goose- 
necked  duster.  The  slug  usually  appears  from  June  to 
August. 

The  green  fly  or  aphis  frequently  attacks  the  rose.  Being 
near  the  color  of  the  plant  this  may  become  firmly  estab- 
lished before  being  noticed,  unless  sharp  watch  is  kept.  The 
flies  usually  congregate  first  about  the  base  of  the  bud,  in 
leaf  axils,  or  in  any  place  where  they  are  likely  to  pass  un- 
noticed. When  you  discover  them  spray  at  once  with 
nicotine  or  kerosene  emulsion.  Keeping  the  plants  dusted 
with  tobacco  dust  will  help  to  keep  the  aphides  away.  If 
they  become  established  the  plants  will  need  to  be  sprayed 
several  times;  the  pests  propagate  so  rapidly  that  a  few 
will  soon  reinfest  the  plant. 

Another  insect  that  sometimes  attacks  roses,  working 
from  the  under  side  of  the  leaves,  is  the  leaf  hopper.  Small 
yellow  spots  appear  on  the  upper  surfaces  of  otherwise 
healthy  leaves  without  apparent  cause.  The  hoppers  are 


JUNE:  THIRD  WEEK  155 

very  small  and  are  something  like  flea  beetles  in  their  habit 
of  jumping  away  when  disturbed.  They  are  light  yellow 
in  color.  Nicotine  spray  and  kerosene  emulsion  are  effec- 
tive against  them. 

Mildew,  Anthracnose  and  Leaf  Blight 

The  disease  most  commonly  attacking  roses  is  mildew. 
There  are  two  forms:  The  first  and  most  common  is  con- 
spicuous because  of  the  suddenness  with  which  it  appears, 
forming  a  cobwebby  coating  upon  the  leaves.  The  standard 
remedy  is  flowers  of  sulphur,  mixed  with  a  little  slaked 
lime  if  desired,  which  may  be  dusted  on  where  the  disease 
appears.  The  second  form,  downy  mildew,  is  more  persist- 
ent, as  it  works  farther  into  the  tissues  of  the  plant.  Flowers 
of  sulphur,  or  other  fungicidal  sprays,  will  prevent  its 
spread,  but  all  infected  leaves  should  be  carefully  gathered 
and  destroyed. 

When  the  leaves  on  apparently  healthy  plants  show  small 
black  spots,  fade  out  and  drop  off,  so  that  the  plant  looks 
very  much  denuded,  anthracnose  is  likely  to  be  the  trouble. 
It  may  be  controlled  by  spraying  with  ammoniacal-copper- 
carbonate  solution  at  intervals  of  a  week.  All  affected 
foliage  should  be  burned. 

Somewhat  similar  to  anthracnose  is  leaf  blight,  which 
resembles  strawberry  blight.  Bordeaux  is  useful  in  con- 
trolling it.  If  the  foliage  turns  a  faded  color  and  falls,  es- 
pecially from  new  growth  and  from  the  tips  of  canes,  the 
disease  is  leaf  blight.  Infected  canes  should  be  cut  out  and 
burned,  and  if  there  are  many  bad  places  it  will  be  best 
to  get  rid  of  the  entire  plant. 

All  this  makes  quite  a  formidable  array  of  troubles,  but 
the  rose  grower  is  not  likely  to  encounter  them  all  during 
one  season.  Most  of  them  can  be  controlled  by  a  single 
combination  spray  applied  every  ten  days  or  two  weeks 
throughout  the  season.  This  plan  of  protection  is  by  far 
the  safest  and  surest  in  the  end,  particularly  when  the  roses 
are  grown  mostly  for  cut  blooms  and  a  slight  disfigurement 


156      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

of  the  foliage  will  not  be  a  serious  objection.  When  it  is 
desired  to  keep  the  foliage  clean,  ammoniacal-copper- 
carbonate  may  be  used  in  place  of  Bordeaux  and  arsenate 
of  lead  powder  instead  of  paste. 

It  is  of  great  advantage  to  have  available  an  abundance  of 
water  under  strong  pressure.  Water  applied  in  a  fine  spray 
will  not  injure  the  roses  and  will  keep  in  check  most  of  the 
insects  to  be  feared. 

Summer  Mulching  and  Pruning 

To  bloom  through  a  long  season  and  with  vigor  roses 
require  plenty  of  mulching.  Summer  mulching  is  of  great 
advantage.  Fine,  rather  light,  well-rotted  manure  is  ideal 
for  this  purpose.  If  it  is  too  fresh  it  may  injure  the  plants; 
if  too  coarse  it  is  not  effective  as  a  mulch.  The  bed  should 
be  thoroughly  hoed  over  before  the  mulch  is  applied,  so 
sprouting  weeds  will  be  destroyed.  To  obtain  the  best 
blooms  some  additional  feeding  of  the  plants  will  be  re- 
quired; the  mulch  of  manure,  if  of  the  right  kind,  will  serve 
this  additional  purpose,  as  every  rain  or  thorough  watering 
will  carry  plant  food  down  to  the  roots. 

When  mulch  is  not  used  liquid  manures  or  bone  dust  or 
bone  flour  and  a  little  nitrate  of  soda  should  be  given.  If 
the  ground  has  been  thoroughly  enriched  an  application  of 
nitrate  of  soda  alone  will  generally  show  marked  results. 
Another  convenient  form  in  which  this  additional  plant 
food  may  be  applied  is  by  giving  a  dressing  of  sheep  manure 
or  shredded  cattle  manure,  raking  or  hoeing  it  lightly  into 
the  surface,  and  then  giving  a  thorough  watering.  This  is 
much  more  convenient  than  making  and  applying  liquid 
manure  and  it  gives  much  the  same  effect. 

When  many  flowers  are  cut  the  plant  is  practically  given 
a  summer  pruning  in  their  removal.  In  cutting  flowers,  as 
in  pruning,  be  sure  always  to  cut  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  above  an  outside  bud  or  branch,  so  the  bush  will  tend 
to  grow  outward,  leaving  an  open  center  to  admit  plenty 
of  air  and  sunshine. 


JUNE:  THIRD  WEEK  157 

A  moderate  pruning  or  cutting  back,  as  the  blooming 
season  draws  to  a  close,  will  increase  the  number  of  flowers 
to  be  expected  at  the  next  blooming  period.  Even  the  hy- 
brid perpetuals  sometimes  give  a  few  blossoms  again  in  the 
fall. 

Training  Climbing  Roses 

The  Crimson  Ramblers  and  other  climbers  are  given 
their  annual  pruning  just  after  blooming.  Cut  out  the  oldest 
flowering  wood  or  any  old,  dead  wood  that  may  have 
escaped  notice  in  the  spring,  and  such  new  growths  as  cross 
or  conflict  or  seem  not  to  be  needed.  There  is  little  danger 
of  taking  out  too  much,  as  the  new  shoots  grow  from  ten 
to  twenty  feet  or  more  during  the  season. 

Begin  training  the  shoots  while  they  are  small.  Do  not 
fail  to  provide  a  suitable  trellis.  The  climbing  roses,  if 
simply  fastened  up  against  the  house,  will  work  havoc 
with  eave  troughs  and  the  edges  of  the  roof  over  which 
they  climb,  keeping  them  shaded  and  wet  and  inviting  rot. 

In  the  cases  of  some  of  the  taller  bush  roses,  which  tend 
to  send  up  straight,  tall  canes,  bend  over  the  new  pliable 
canes  a  couple  of  inches  or  so  above  ground,  nearly  at  right 
angles,  and  bend  upward  again  a  few  inches  farther  along 
the  cane.  These  crooks  check  the  flow  of  sap,  with  the 
result  that  the  buds  on  the  lower  parts  of  the  canes  are 
allowed  to  develop;  otherwise  you  are  likely  to  get  many 
canes  that  are  practically  bare  of  foliage  near  the  bottom. 

Keeping  Cut  Flowers  Fresh 

Double  enjoyment  is  to  be  had  from  the  garden  through- 
out the  summer  by  the  judicious  use  of  cut  flowers.  Many 
people  refrain  from  the  free  use  of  blossoms  indoors  for 
fear  of  curtailing  the  supply  outside.  Free  cutting,  how- 
ever, almost  always  means  more  flowers.  The  plants  upon 
which  the  blooms  are  allowed  to  mature  will  go  by  much 
sooner  than  if  the  blooms  are  kept  cut.  This  is  especially 
true  of  annuals,  such  as  sweet  peas.  Even  if  you  cannot 


158      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

use  them  all,  the  blossoms  should  be  removed  as  soon  as 
they  begin  to  fade. 

Make  a  practice  of  cutting  your  flowers  daily,  early  in 
the  morning.  Those  designed  for  use  in  the  house  should 
be  cut  just  as  they  are  beginning  to  open.  Do  not,  how- 
ever, make  the  mistake  of  feeling  that  you  must  use  all  the 
flowers  you  cut.  A  massive,  crowded,  mixed  bouquet, 
containing  all  kinds  of  flowers  and  colors,  is  not  a  thing  of 
beauty. 

The  Japanese,  who  have  made  a  distinct  art  of  arranging 
cut  flowers,  generally  use  only  two  or  three  blooms  of  a 
single  variety.  Perhaps,  according  to  our  taste,  this  is 
extreme;  but  there  is  a  happy  medium.  The  mixed  bouquet 
should  be  so  arranged  that  it  appears  natural. 

To  keep  flowers  fresh  until  they  are  put  into  the  water 
after  cutting,  sprinkle  them,  wrap  the  stems  in  moist  paper 
or  a  damp  cloth,  and  keep  in  a  tight  box  in  as  cold  a  place 
as  possible.  To  keep  them  fresh  in  the  vases  cut  off  a  little 
of  the  stems  daily,  and  supply  with  fresh  water.  To  revive 
wilted  flowers,  cut  the  stems,  place  for  ten  minutes  in  water 
as  hot  as  the  hand  can  bear  it,  and  then  in  cold  water. 
Freshly  cut  flowers  will  keep  better  if  they  are  placed  in 
fresh  cold  water,  or  the  stems  in  a  damp  cloth,  and  kept 
in  a  cold  place,  before  being  used  for  bouquets  or  in  vases 
in  the  living  room. 


June:  Fourth  Week 

CELERY  FOR  FALL  AND  WINTER:  BUYING 
PLANTS;  TRANSPLANTING;  CULTURE;  EARLY 
BLANCHING 

Celery  takes  up  little  room  in  proportion  to  the  yield  and 
can  follow  an  earlier  crop  that  has  been  removed.  From 
the  middle  of  July  to  the  first  of  August  put  in  plants  de- 
signed for  fall  and  winter  use,  as  the  first  fall  frosts  do  not 
check  growth.  Plants  set  out  earlier  will  be  ready  sooner  in 
the  fall,  but  quality  is  always  poor  until  cool  weather,  which 
adds  the  crispness  and  tang  that  makes  celery  a  winter 
favorite. 

Make  the  soil  for  your  celery  patch  the  richest  spot  in  the 
garden.  The  more  rapid  and  luxuriant  the  growth  the 
better  will  be  the  quality  and  the  more  certain  the  crop  will 
be  to  come  through  on  time.  Here  is  a  chance  to  use  up  all 
the  season's  left-overs  in  the  way  of  plant  foods.  There  are 
probably  odds  and  ends  of  fertilizers,  the  compost  heap  that 
has  accumulated  during  the  spring  and  summer,  the  chicken 
manure,  and  some  ashes.  In  addition  to  this  general  hash 
of  plant  foods,  give  a  good  dressing  of  high-grade  fer- 
tilizer for  the  last  course,  and  rake  it  thoroughly  into  the 
soil. 

Do  not  be  afraid  of  getting  the  soil  too  rich.  Any  of  these 
deposits  in  the  soil  bank  that  the  celery  does  not  draw  upon 
for  use  will  be  available  for  early  spring  crops  of  green 
onions,  lettuce  and  cabbage. 

Equally  important  are  good,  sturdy,  well-developed  plants 
that  have  already  begun  to  get  their  shape,  are  easy  to 
plant,  and  are  ready  to  grow  right  on.  Size  at  the  base  of 
the  stalks,  rather  than  height,  should  be  the  basis  upon 
which  to  judge  plants.  A  spindling  plant  will  waste  a  good 


160      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

deal  of  time  in  readjusting  itself  to  a  better  form,  if  it  ever 
does  so. 

If  you  have  your  own  plants  growing  in  a  flat  or  in  a 
frame  cut  the  tops  back  severely  a  week  or  so  before  plant- 
ing. It  is  well,  also,  to  keep  them  rather  on  the  dry  side 
until  just  a  day  or  two  before  planting;  this  stimulates  the 
growth  of  the  feeding  root  hairs  which  take  up  the  plant- 
food  solutions  from  the  soil,  and,  as  many  of  these  roots  are 
destroyed  in  transplanting,  even  with  care,  the  more  there 
are  available  the  sooner  the  plants  will  become  established. 

If  you  have  to  buy  plants  select  them  personally  in  your 
own  neighborhood  if  possible.  If  they  must  be  ordered 
from  a  distance  secure  plants  that  have  been  transplanted 
or  are  "re-rooted."  Celery  for  the  summer  planting  is  often 
sown  late  in  March  or  early  in  April  in  the  open  and  grown 
without  transplanting;  if  these  are  thinned  out  and  properly 
cared  for  they  will  make  handsome-looking  plants,  but  each 
will  have  formed  one  large  tap-root,  instead  of  the  desired 
thick  mat  of  fibrous  roots. 

The  "re-rooted"  plants  have  had  the  main  root  cut,  with 
the  result  that  a  fibrous  mat  of  roots,  similar  to  that  of  a 
transplanted  plant,  has  been  formed.  This  has,  of  course, 
made  an  extra  operation  and  such  plants  cost  a  little  more. 

Water  Needed  at  Transplanting 

Celery  suffers  more  quickly  from  lack  of  water  than  most 
other  plants  at  all  stages  of  development.  Moreover,  the 
setting  out  is  usually  done  at  the  driest  season  of  the  year. 
At  the  time  of  transplanting  it  is  often  advisable,  even  when 
it  is  not  absolutely  necessary,  to  use  water. 

Prepare  the  ground  in  advance  for  transplanting.  The 
rows  may  be  from  two  to  four  feet  apart,  depending  upon 
the  method  to  be  used  to  blanch  them  and  the  variety. 
Frequently  celery  plants  are  set  out  between  rows  of  other 
things  that  are  still  growing  but  will  be  out  of  the  way  before 
the  celery  needs  all  the  space.  With  some  modern  methods 
of  blanching,  to  be  described  later,  the  rows  may  be,  if  nee- 


—  — — —  ' • •••— —  ••^^•^^, 

PLATE  15.— A  little  home  made  house  like  this  will  be  used  almost  every  day 
during  the  summer  and  autumn.  See  text  for  list  of  materials  required.  In 
the  lower  photograph,  a  pergola  extends  from  the  house  to  the  summer  house 
and  is  continued  on  to  the  garage.  Covered  with  vines,  it  affords  a  passage 
protected  from  sun  and  from  ordinary  rain  storms. 


PLATE  16. — The  starting  of  pansies  and  other  hardy  perennials  and  biennials 
for  next  season's  bloom  is  one  of  the  important  tasks  to  be  attended  to  through 
July  and  August.  The  cloth  covered  sash  which  can  be  held  in  place  a  few  inches 
above  a  cold  frame  makes  an  ideal  place  in  which  to  start  the  seeds.  Cool  and 
shaded  but  with  plenty  of  air.  (Lower]  A  box  of  pansy  seedlings  ready  to  be 
transplanted  to  their  winter  quarters.  The  little  plants  have  developed  four  or 
five  true  leaves  and  a  good  bunch  of  roots.  In  starting  plants  of  this  it  is  im- 
portant not  to  get  the  seeds  too  thick.  The  plants  are  allowed  to  make  more 
development  before  being  transplanted  than  those  started  in  spring  under  glass. 


JUNE:  FOURTH  WEEK  161 

essary,  as  close  as  eighteen  inches.  Or  the  plants  may  be 
set  eight  to  twelve  inches  apart  each  way,  so  that  they  will 
crowd  enough  to  grow  upright  and  blanch  themselves. 
When  space  is  very  limited,  this  method  may  be  used  to 
advantage;  but  the  stalks  of  the  individual  plants  do  not 
get  so  large,  and,  in  order  for  this  system  to  be  successful, 
the  soil  must  be  enriched  to  the  limit  and  an  abundance  of 
water  applied  every  few  days.  Another  method  is  to  plant 
in  double  rows,  six  inches  apart,  so  two  rows  may  be  planted 
together.  This  is  advisable  when  blanching  is  to  be  done 
by  hilling  with  earth.  With  boards  or  individual  blanchers 
it  is  of  little  advantage,  except  that  more  plants  can  be 
grown  in  a  limited  space.  The  plants  are  set  about  six 
inches  apart  in  the  rows. 

After  the  soil  is  ready,  if  water  is  to  be  used,  open  up  a 
shallow  trench  the  length  of  each  row  with  the  wheel  hoe 
and  turn  in  the  water  until  it  is  well  rilled.  If  necessary  fill 
it  several  times,  until  the  soil  at  the  bottom  is  well  saturated. 
If  this  can  be  done  in  the  morning  conditions  will  be  right 
for  planting  in  the  late  afternoon.  If  not  enough  water  is 
available  to  flood  a  trench  in  this  way  dig  small  holes  with 
the  hoe  or  trowel  where  the  plants  are  to  be  set  and  pour  half 
a  pint  or  more  of  water  into  each. 

Watering  on  the  surface  after  setting  the  plants,  unless 
it  can  be  done  with  an  irrigating  outfit  that  will  soak  the 
ground  thoroughly,  is  of  little  use. 

Shading  the  plants  from  the  hot  sun,  however,  keeps  them 
from  wilting.  A  wide  board  set  on  edge  at  an  angle  on  the 
sunny  side  of  the  row,  and  held  in  place  by  short  stakes,  is 
a  quick  and  effective  method  of  supplying  shade.  When 
only  a  few  plants  are  set  newspapers  may  be  arched  over 
the  rows  and  held  in  place  with  soil.  If  the  weather  remains 
bright  and  hot  the  protection  may  be  left  on  for  several 
days  after  planting;  the  plants  will  get  enough  light  and  air 
without  removal  at  night. 


1 62      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Trim  the  Roots 

As  the  celery  plants  are  received,  or  as  they  are  lifted 
from  the  seed  bed  or  flat,  the  roots  are  too  long  and  should 
be  well  trimmed  before  setting.  Do  not  be  afraid  of  in- 
juring the  plants  by  this  root  pruning.  Long  roots  that 
can  easily  be  bent  or  broken  are  either  dead  or  so  much 
injured  that  they  are  of  no  use  to  the  plants.  The  trimmed 
roots  are  not  only  easier  to  handle,  but  they  also  induce  the 
formation  of  small  side  roots  that  help  to  establish  the  plants 
quickly  in  their  new  quarters.  Trimming  back  the  top 
saves  work  in  planting  and  lessens  the  loss  of  water  to  the 
plant  through  transpiration — so  that  the  curtailed '  root 
system  is  able  to  keep  up  with  the  demands  of  the  plant, 
and  wilting  is  reduced. 

In  buying  plants,  strain  as  well  as  variety  is  important. 
Celery  seed,  even  of  the  same  variety,  differs  greatly  in  its 
ability  to  produce  solid,  meaty  stalks.  The  hollow  hearts, 
which  celery  growers  try  to  avoid,  are  usually  the  result  of 
inferior  seed.  As  to  varieties,  White  Plume  gives  the 
earliest  results  and  is  the  easiest  to  plant.  It  is  not  so  large 
nor  so  crisp  and  nutty  in  flavor  as  some  of  the  later  sorts. 
Golden  Self-Blanching  is  a  universal  favorite.  It  blanches 
readily,  though  not  so  easily  as  White  Plume.  The  stalks 
are  thicker  and  stockier.  Winter  Queen  and  Evans'  Tri- 
umph, which  are  similar,  are  of  medium  size  and  form 
thick,  stocky  stalks;  they  are  more  easily  blanched  and 
handled  than  the  old,  tall-growing  varieties.  Emperor  and 
Easy  Blanching  both  make  thick  and  meaty  stalks  and  will 
undoubtedly  become  widely  used,  especially  in  private 
gardens,  as  they  become  better  known.  If  there  is  room 
to  grow  but  one  variety  Golden  Self -Blanching  will  be  found 
satisfactory.  If  two  can  be  used  try  White  Plume  or  Golden 
Self-Blanching  for  early  use,  and  Winter  Queen  or  one  of  the 
other  new  sorts  for  fall  and  winter. 

After  planting,  celery  will  require  little  care  for  several 
weeks  except  to  keep  it  thoroughly  cultivated  and  growing 


JUNE:  FOURTH  WEEK  163 

rapidly,  with  one  or  two  light  dressings  of  nitrate  of  soda  to 
speed  it  up.  As  the  plants  get  taller,  a  little  earth  should  be 
worked  toward  the  rows  with  the  horse  hoe  or  wheel  hoe. 
Then  the  important  work  of  blanching  begins. 

The  first  step  is  to  maintain  the  plants  in  an  upright  posi- 
tion of  growth.  This  can  be  done  by  working  the  earth 
round  the  plants  with  one  hand  while  holding  the  stalks 
together  with  the  other.  No  attempt  is  made  in  this  opera- 
tion to  cover  the  stalks;  the  purpose  is  merely  to  keep  the 
outside  leaves  from  spreading  out  flat,  as  they  would  do  if 
left  to  themselves,  so  that  when  the  blanching  is  undertaken 
it  will  be  easier,  and  the  bunches  of  stalks,  being  compact, 
will  keep  the  soil  from  getting  into  the  heart  of  the  plants. 

Blanching  for  Early  Use 

In  the  home  garden,  up  to  the  time  of  storing  celery  for 
winter  only  a  few  plants  will  be  wanted  at  a  time,  and  the 
easiest  and  best  method  of  blanching  is  by  using  a  metal 
collar  with  paper  bands  made  for  the  purpose.  The  metal 
collar  is  clamped  about  the  plant,  holding  the  stalks  to- 
gether, the  paper  tube  is  slipped  over  it,  and  the  metal 
piece  is  drawn  out,  leaving  the  plant  neatly  held  in  a  tight 
paper  casing.  A  dozen  or  two  stalks  can  be  quickly  blanched 
at  a  time  by  this  method.  The  paper  tubes,  which  cost 
about  a  cent  and  a  half  apiece,  will  last,  with  care,  for  sev- 
eral seasons.  Short  pieces  of  drain  tile  may  be  used  in  the 
same  way,  but  they  are  much  harder  to  put  on,  clumsy  to 
store  and  will  not  give  so  satisfactory  results. 

For  blanching  with  earth,  which  seems  to  give  a  little 
more  crispness  and  flavor  than  any  of  the  other  methods, 
the  soil  should  be  thoroughly  loosened  up  between  the  rows 
and  worked  up  to  the  plants  as  high  as  possible  with  the 
cultivator  or  hoe.  Then  it  must  be  drawn  up  or  banked  up 
with  the  spade  so  that  the  stalks  are  covered  clear  to  the 
top  leaves,  excluding  all  light.  This  should  be  done  only 
when  the  plants  are  dry,  though  the  soil  banks  much  better 
when  it  is  fairly  moist.  Only  that  part  of  the  crop  which  is 


164      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

wanted  for  the  late  fall  or  early  winter  use  should  be  hilled 
up  or  blanched  in  this  way.  That  designed  for  winter  use 
should  be  left  growing  in  the  green  state,  to  be  trenched  or 
stored  in  the  cellar  or  frame  or  root  pit  after  the  other  garden 
vegetables  are  harvested. 

Celery  in  the  home  garden  is  generally  quite  free  from 
insects  and  diseases.  The  celery  caterpillar  and  rust  or 
blight  are  the  only  things  likely  to  give  trouble.  The  former 
is  a  conspicuous  caterpillar,  two  or  three  inches  long  and 
similar  in  appearance  to  the  caterpillar  which  feeds  upon 
carrots.  Usually  these  do  not  appear  in  large  numbers  and 
hand  picking  is  the  easiest  way  to  get  rid  of  them.  For 
protection  from  rust  or  blight,  the  plants  should  be  sprayed 
before  the  disease  appears.  Bordeaux  will  do,  but  will 
disfigure  the  foliage  to  some  extent,  so  ammoniacal  copper 
carbonate  solution  is  preferable.  Spray  every  ten  days  or 
so.  Avoid  working  round  or  handling  the  plants  while  the 
foliage  is  wet. 


July:  First  Week 

MIDSUMMER  WORK  IN  THE  VEGETABLE  GAR- 
DEN: SAVING  THE  SOIL  MOISTURE;  EGG- 
PLANTS AND  PEPPERS;  THE  VINE  CROPS, 
TRANSPLANTING  IN  DRY  WEATHER;  LATE 
PLANTING 

Scores  of  gardeners  who  started  out  enthusiastically  in 
spring  begin  to  let  up  a  little  when  hot  weather  comes  in 
June,  and  practically  abandon  the  garden  to  its  fate  after 
the  Fourth,  sacrificing  a  large  part  of  the  work  already 
done. 

The  root  crops  for  late  summer  and  for  winter  should  be 
top  dressed  now  with  nitrate  of  soda.  This  is  particularly 
valuable  in  dry  weather,  when  nitrogen  in  the  form  gen- 
erally existing  in  the  soil  is  largely  inert  because  there  is 
not  enough  moisture  to  make  it  available. 

One  of  the  most  important  factors  in  securing  good  root 
crops  is  to  thin  out  sufficiently  and  to  do  it  early.  Two  to 
three  inches  apart  is  right  for  carrots,  onions  and  salsify, 
three  to  four  inches  for  beets,  parsnips  and  the  smaller 
varieties  of  turnips;  and  four  to  six  inches  for  large  turnips 
and  rutabagas. 

The  various  hot- weather  plants  will  need  attention  now — 
tomatoes,  peppers,  eggplants,  muskmelons,  watermelons, 
pole  beans,  Hma  beans  and  late  sweet  com.  All  these, 
with  the  exception  of  dwarf  limas,  are  usually  grown  in 
hills,  and  it  is  a  temptation  to  cultivate  and  weed  just 
round  the  hills  and  to  let  the  spaces  between  go  until  the 
plants  get  considerably  larger. 

This  is  a  great  mistake.  An  efficient  way  of  managing 
these  crops  in  the  home  garden  is  to  use  the  rake  attach- 
ment on  the  wheel  hoe  and  an  ordinary  iron  rake  between 

165 


1 66      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

the  hills.  An  hour's  work  with  this  combination  before 
the  weeds  start,  and  once  a  week  thereafter,  will  take  care 
of  a  surprisingly  large  number  of  hills.  If,  however,  the 
weeds  are  allowed  to  establish  themselves,  as  they  do  very 
quickly  at  this  time  of  the  year,  the  rake  teeth  will  not 
destroy  them  and  the  hand  hoe  must  be  used. 

Supports  for  Tomatoes 

When  only  a  dozen  or  two  plants  are  grown,  staking  and 
pruning  of  tomatoes  are  always  advisable.  Plants  thus 
cared  for  occupy  less  room,  produce  earlier  and  more  first- 
quality  table  fruit,  even  if  not  a  greater  total  amount,  the 
fruit  ripens  earlier,  and  is  much  less  subject  to  the  attacks 
of  rot  or  other  disease. 

Drive  in  stakes  five  or  six  feet  long  soon  after  the  plants 
are  set  out  and  tie  the  vines  before  they  have  made  growth 
enough  to  lop  over.  Some  gardeners  prefer  pruning  to 
single  stems,  but  usually  more  and  practically  as  good  and 
as  early  fruit  can  be  had  by  allowing  one  or  two  of  the 
suckers  or  side  shoots  on  the  plants  to  grow. 

When  the  plants  are  set  out  in  one  or  two  long  rows  a 
convenient  and  easy  method  of  supporting  them  is  to  put  in 
a  few  stout  stakes,  and  stretch  two  pieces  of  wire  on  these, 
one  six  inches  or  so  above  the  ground  and  another  four  feet 
above  the  first. 

Twine  is  strung  between  the  wires,  and  upon  this  the 
vines  are  trained.  Barrel  hoops,  supported  by  two  or  three 
stakes,  also  make  a  good  support,  particularly  if  the  vines 
are  not  to  be  carefully  pruned. 

Look  out  for  the  large  horn  or  tomato  worm,  which  if 
left  unmolested  will  do  a  great  deal  of  harm  in  a  few  days. 
He  is  a  chewer  and  arsenate  of  lead  will  get  him,  but  the 
quickest  and  best  way  is  hand  picking.  Keep  the  plants 
well  supported  and  thinned,  removing  surplus  foliage  to 
admit  sunshine  and  air,  thinning  fruits  that  touch,  and 
spraying  with  Bordeaux;  this  will  prevent  rotting. 

For  a  supply  of  tomatoes  for  canning  and  preserving  and 


JULY:  FIRST  WEEK  167 

an  after-frost  supply  to  be  kept  in  the  cold-frame  or  cellar, 
late  plants  should  be  set  out.  One  way  of  obtaining  a  crop 
of  these  is  to  root  a  batch  of  cuttings  now.  Side  shoots 
that  are  removed  and  placed  in  a  box  of  sandy  soil  in  the 
shade  and  kept  watered  will  root  in  a  few  days,  and  these 
made-to-order  plants  may  be  brought  to  full  bearing  before 
frost. 

Eggplant  should  be  given  a  dressing  of  nitrate  of  soda 
at  the  first  hoeing,  and  a  dressing  of  liquid  manure  or  a 
complete  fertilizer  at  the  second.  An  abundance  of  mois- 
ture is  necessary,  and  if  irrigation  is  not  available  a  good 
plan  is  to  mulch  the  rows  with  short  strawy  manure,  rotted 
leaves  or  old  short  straw. 


Don't  Leave  Vine  Plants  to  Strangle  Each  Other 

The  various  vine  crops  are  treated  in  much  the  same 
way.  Probably  the  most  common  mistake  is  in  leaving 
too  many  vines  in  a  hill.  The  gardener  who  has  succeeded 
in  getting  a  stand  of  six  or  eight  good  plants  feels  that 
he  has  done  his  duty  when  he  pulls  out  all  but  four  or 
five.  Reduce  this  number  to  two  as  soon  as  they  begin  to 
crowd.  Use  tobacco  dust  as  a  preventive  of  striped  cucum- 
ber beetle.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  or  dust  with 
an  arsenate-sulphur  compound  to  keep  all  the  new  growth 
covered.  For  the  large  black  stink-bug  use  kerosene  emul- 
sion. Watch  squash  and  pumpkin  vines  for  the  borer. 
When  the  tips  of  the  vines  and  the  leaves  wilt  on  a  hot 
day  search  carefully  at  the  base  of  the  vines  for  him.  He 
can  usually  be  located  inside  the  stem  within  the  first  few 
joints  from  the  soil.  A  slit  in  it  with  a  sharp  knife  blade 
will  permit  you  to  take  him  out.  The  wound,  if  covered 
with  soil,  will  quickly  heal. 

At  the  time  of  the  second  hoeing,  work  in  a  light  dressing 
of  nitrate  of  soda.  When  the  vines  reach  across  the  rows 
the  ends  may  be  pinched  out,  which  tends  to  develop  the 
side  shoots  upon  which  the  fruits  are  usually  borne. 


i68       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Holding  the  Soil  Moisture  in  Summer 

The  summer  inattention  of  the  gardener  is  often  due  to 
ignorance  as  well  as  to  shif tlessness.  I  have  had  old  farmers 
remonstrate  with  me  that  I  would  injure  my  onions  and 
other  rowed  crops  by  going  through  them  so  much  with  a 
wheel  hoe,  and  thus  drying  up  the  surface.  But  in  these 
days,  anyone  entitled  to  the  name  of  gardener  knows — or 
has  little  excuse  for  not  knowing — that  it  is  only  by  keeping 
the  surface  dry  and  finely  pulverized  that  the  moisture 
below  the  surface  can  be  conserved.  A  simple  illustration 
will  serve  to  prove  the  physical  principle  involved  in  this 
fact.  Take  a  strip  of  blotting  paper,  dip  one  end  in  water 
and  see  how  the  moisture  soaks  up  through  it  to  the  top. 
Next  take  a  similar  piece,  cut  it  in  two,  press  the  ends 
firmly  together,  and  dip  the  lower  part  in  water.  The 
water  refuses  to  cross  the  line,  infinitesimal  as  the  separa- 
tion is,  because  the  " capillary  tubes"  through  which  it  rises, 
have  been  severed.  In  the  same  way,  frequent  cultivation 
of  the  surface  of  the  soil,  severs  the  capillary  tubes  through 
which  moisture  rises  from  the  lower  levels  of  the  soil  to  the 
surface,  and  is  there  evaporated  at  an  astonishingly  rapid 
rate  by  wind  and  sun.  Simple  as  this  rule  is,  refusal  to  take 
advantage  of  it  every  year  costs  hundreds  of  gardeners  a 
good  many  dollars  each,  both  in  actual  income  and  possible 
saving,  for  it  is  as  true  of  the  garden  patch  as  of  broad 
acres  of  potatoes  or  corn. 

One  of  the  most  important  things  to  attend  to,  then,  in 
summer  work  in  the  garden,  is  frequent  shallow  cultivation. 
It  need  not,  and  for  most  crops  should  not,  be  over  two 
inches  deep.  The  most  efficient  and  rapid  tool  to  use  for 
this  work  in  the  garden,  is  the  double-wheel  hoe,  until  crops 
get  too  large  to  be  straddled.  After  that  it  can  be  changed 
to  a  single-wheel  hoe,  and  the  leaf  guards  put  on.  It  is 
advisable  to  use  alternately  the  flat  hoes  and  the  cultivator 
teeth  (the  improved  forms  of  the  latter  cut  deeper  in  the 
middle  of  the  row  than  they  do  near  the  plants).  This 
prevents  the  formation  of  a  hard  crust  just  below  the  dirt 


JULY:  FIRST  WEEK  169 

mulch,  a  condition  which  is  apt  to  be  the  result  in  very  dry 
weather,  if  the  flat  hoes  alone  are  used. 

Keep  Down  Late  Weeds 

Care  should  also  be  taken,  of  course,  to  keep  down  all 
weeds.  Not  only  do  they  strangle  the  growth  of  legitimate 
plants,  but  they  rob  the  soil  of  food  and  much  needed 
moisture.  Remove  weeds  while  they  are  small.  The  work 
of  pulling  them  up  will  be  a  great  deal  less.  Often  it  takes 
from  three  to  four  times  as  long  to  weed  a  row  out  clean, 
where  the  weeds  have  been  allowed  to  grow  up  as  tall  as 
plants,  as  it  would  have  taken  when  they  were  first  large 
enough  to  be  pulled  out. 

The  summer  conservation  policies  above  outlined — keep- 
ing the  soil  free  from  weeds  and  frequently  cultivated — 
are  necessary  to  carry  through  to  successful  maturity  such 
spring  crops  as  onions,  parsnips,  oyster  plants,  beets,  car- 
rots, etc.;  and  the  later  planting  of  pole  beans,  squash, 
melons,  etc.  The  majority  of  these  can  be  successfully 
stored,  and,  if  the  work  is  properly  done,  it  is  remarkable 
how  well  their  quality  can  be  preserved. 

Summer   Transplanting  for  Winter  Crops 

In  addition  to  these  crops,  however,  there  are  a  number 
of  others  which  may  be  planted  quite  late,  and  still  mature, 
making  real  fall  crops  which  may  be  used  to  fill  up  the  space 
in  the  garden  occupied  before  by  early  cabbage,  lettuce, 
radishes,  peas,  green  onions,  early  potatoes,  or  anything 
else  that  is  out  of  the  way  by  the  end  of  July.  It  is  not  only 
a  waste  of  space  but  usually  a  source  of  much  weed  trouble 
for  the  coming  year  to  let  such  spots  remain  idle  for  half 
a  season. 

Among  the  first  of  such  crops  to  be  put  in  are  the  late 
cabbages  for  storing  over  winter.  For  this  purpose,  I 
prefer  the  Danish  Ballhead  type  which  can  be  planted 
closer  than  such  sorts  as  the  Autumn  King,  will  head  more 
surely,  quickly  and  solidly,  and  is  easier  to  keep.  The 


170      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

earlier  in  July  these  can  be  set  out  the  better, — use  plants 
from  the  seed  that  was  planted  the  last  part  of  May  or 
early  in  June.  In  the  same  class  are  cauliflower,  Brussels 
sprouts  and  kale,  which  is  used  for  greens  and  has  the  great 
advantage  of  withstanding  almost  any  degree  of  cold,  so 
that  its  crumpled  leaves  may  be  gathered  for  use  from 
under  a  blanket  of  snow.  Brussels  sprouts  are  altogether 
too  little  used  and  appreciated.  In  quality  they  leave 
nothing  to  be  desired,  being  far  superior  to  cabbage,  they 
withstand  any  amount  of  cold  (I  have  gathered  them  from 
stalks  in  the  open  in  January),  and  the  new  sorts  such  as 
Dalkeith  and  Danish  Giant  bear  abundantly. 

As  the  soil,  at  this  time  of  the  year,  is  frequently  quite 
dry,  two  things  must  be  done,  in  setting  out,  to  give  the 
plants  a  sure  start.  In  the  bottom  of  the  hole  in  which 
the  plant  is  to  be  set,  pour  a  half  pint  or  more  of  water. 
Secondly,  set  the  plants  deeply  and  firmly  in  the  soil;  after 
setting  out  a  row,  go  back  over  it  with  the  balls  of  the  feet, 
press  down  with  all  your  weight  on  either  side  of  the  stem ; 
there  is  no  danger  of  packing  the  earth  too  hard. 

Seeds  to  Sow  for  Fall  and  Winter 

Of  the  seeds  which  may  be  planted  at  this  late  season, 
the  most  important  are  turnips,  beans,  and  early  beets. 
The  early  carrots  would  probably  have  time  to  mature, 
but  they  are  very  small,  and  it  is  much  better  to  plant 
Danvers  or  Coreless  in  May  or  early  June.  Beets,  however, 
are  much  better  if  they  do  not  grow  too  long  and  get  too 
large.  The  same  is  true  of  turnips,  the  most  rapid  growing 
of  root  crops.  Petrowski,  a  smooth,  yellow,  small  sized 
sort  with  a  mild  flavor  is  not  so  widely  known  as  it  should 
be.  Golden  Ball  is  also  largely  used.  Of  the  beets  I  like 
Early  Model,  which  makes  a  smooth,  deep  root,  of  fine 
color  and  flavor.  Detroit  Dark  Red  is  even  finer,  but  takes 
a  little  longer  to  mature.  Ruta-bagas  are  generally  used 
for  stock  feeding,  but  small  varieties  are  excellent  for  the 
table:  Breadstone  is  a  high  quality  variety. 


JULY:  FIRST  WEEK  171 

All  the  above  may  be  kept  through  the  winter;  besides 
these  there  is  ample  time  for  early  peas,  lettuce  and  radishes 
to  mature  and  furnish  a  very  acceptable  variety  for  the  table 
during  the  several  weeks  of  fall  and  winter.  Gradus  and 
Early  Morn,  tall  sorts,  and  Blue  Bantam  and  Laxtonian  are 
all  splendid  quick  growing  peas.  Grand  Rapids  for  a 
" curly  sort"  and  Big  Boston  for  a  heading  variety,  I  con- 
sider the  best  of  the  lettuces  for  late  plantings.  Seeds 
should  be  sown  a  little  at  a  time  until  September,  the  last 
plantings  giving  plants  to  transplant  to  the  frames.  Crim- 
son Giant  is  an  unsurpassed  radish,  very  firm  and  mild. 

The  great  secret  in  getting  a  "good  stand"  from  seeds 
planted  during  the  hot  dry  weather,  is  to  "firm"  the  seed 
into  the  soil.  Seed  for  these  late  sowings  should  be  planted 
deeper  than  in  the  spring;  and  when  planted  by  hand  the 
seeds  should  be  firmed  into  the  bottom  of  the  drill  with  the 
back  of  a  hoe,  or  the  sole  of  the  foot  before  covering  it.  The 
necessity  of  having  the  soil  thus  pressed  up  firm  and  close 
to  the  seed  is  twofold.  It  insures  more  moisture  being  ab- 
sorbed by  the  seed  to  start  germination,  and  it  gives  the 
sprouting  tap-root  of  the  seed  a  congenial  environment; 
whereas,  when  it  strikes  out  into  a  soil  space  filled  with  hot, 
dry  air,  as  is  in  the  case  in  the  germination  of  loosely  planted 
seeds,  it  is  doomed  at  the  start. 


July:  Second  Week 

STARTING  PERENNIALS  AND  BIENNIALS  FROM 
SEED  FOR  NEXT  YEAR'S  GARDENS 

A  garden  without  hardy  perennials  is  not  complete. 
When  once  established  these  plants  require  a  minimum  of 
attention  in  proportion  to  the  results  they  give.  They  are 
reliable,  being  for  the  most  part  free  from  disease,  and  they 
bloom  year  after  year,  meeting  almost  everything  required 
in  the  way  of  color,  height,  and  so  forth. 

Two  things  that  have  operated  against  greater  use  of 
perennials  in  American  gardens  are  cost  and  lack  of  famil- 
iarity. Individual  plants  need  not  be  very  expensive. 
Many  good  varieties  may  be  had  for  a  quarter  apiece,  but 
when  one  comes  to  get  the  several  dozen  required  for  a  good 
hardy  border,  or  even  for  occasional  use  about  the  place,  the 
cost  is  considerable. 

No  gardener,  however,  need  be  deterred  from  the  gen- 
erous use  of  hardy  perennials  because  of  this  fact.  He  can 
grow  his  own.  No  matter  how  small  his  garden,  he  can  pro- 
duce dozens  of  good  plants  of  some  of  the  best  types  which, 
if  bought  from  the  nursery,  would  cost  from  fifty  to  fifteen 
cents  each.  And  his  only  cash  outlay  will  be  a  fraction  of  a 
cent  apiece  for  his  plants.  Five  or  ten  cents  buys  enough 
seed  of  most  things  to  raise  several  dozen  plants.  Some  new 
varieties  may  cost  twenty-five  cents  a  packet,  but  plants 
of  these  sorts  cost  fifty  cents  to  two  dollars  each. 

To  be  in  prime  condition  to  go  through  the  winter  and  to 
produce  the  best  results  for  next  summer's  garden  plants 
should  be  started  now.  Among  the  best  are  hardy  aster, 
bellis,  campanula,  Canterbury  bells,  hardy  dianthus,  del- 
phinium, digitalis,  hollyhock,  peony,  hardy  phlox,  hardy 
poppy,  sweet  William,  tritoma,  hardy  Uyssum,  anchusa, 

172 


JULY:  SECOND  WEEK  173 

anemone,  aquilegia,  candytuft,  chrysanthemum,  gypsophila, 
helenium,  hardy  hibiscus,  myosotis,  hardy  lobelia,  pansy, 
viola  or  tufted  pansy  and  wall  flower. 

Planting  is  not  usually  done  until  the  latter  part  of  July 
or  early  August,  but  now  is  the  time  to  get  busy  and  make 
out  your  order.  If  you  don't  know  just  what  to  get  look 
round  among  gardens  where  these  things  are  now  in  bloom 
and  decide  upon  the  varieties  that  suit  your  taste.  By  the 
time  you  have  obtained  your  seeds  and  have  your  borders 
ready  it  will  be  time  to  plant.  There  are  usually  more  seeds 
in  each  package  than  you  will  need,  so  an  excellent  plan 
is  to  make  your  first  sowing  early,  using  about  half  the 
seeds  of  each  variety;  then  if  anything  goes  wrong  you 
can  make  a  second  planting  in  time  to  get  good  plants 
before  cold  weather. 

Plant  Seeds  in  Old  Cold-Frame 

At  this  time  of  the  year  there  is  one  difficulty  in  getting  a 
good  stand.  There  is  heat  enough  and  to  spare,  but  mois- 
ture is  required.  If  your  planting  is  done  just  after  a  soaking 
rain  germination  will  generally  take  place  before  the  soil 
has  become  dry  again  on  the  surface — but  such  a  rain  does 
not  always  come  when  the  gardener  wants  it.  Furthermore, 
a  hard  rain  just  after  the  little  seedlings  have  germinated 
will  sometimes  almost  wholly  ruin  them.  Therefore,  al- 
though the  seedlings  are  best  handled  outdoors,  a  special 
place  should  be  made  for  them. 

Give  the  soil  a  thorough  saturation  just  before  planting 
and  then  maintain  a  mulch  to  conserve  it  until  the  little 
seedlings  are  well  started.  The  longer  watering  can  be  de- 
layed after  planting  the  better.  It  tends,  even  when  care- 
fully done,  to  crust  or  bake  the  soil  on  top  and  to  knock 
over  the  tiny  seedlings. 

The  ideal  place  in  which  to  prepare  a  bed  is  an  old  cold- 
frame  or  hot-bed.  Then  by  the  time  the  seedlings  are  large 
enough  to  transplant,  other  frames  in  which  cucumbers  or 
tomatoes  may  now  still  be  bearing  will  be  empty.  If  you 


174      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

have  no  frame  available  as  good  results  may  be  had  if  a 
little  trouble  is  taken  to  prepare  the  seed  bed  properly.  It 
should  be  elevated  four  or  five  inches  above  the  soil  level, 
to  provide  perfect  drainage — an  abundance  of  moisture  is 
essential  to  success,  but  too  much  will  prove  fatal.  The 
bed  may  be  made  easily  by  digging  a  narrow  path  round 
it,  but  more  protection  will  be  given  if  you  make  a  tem- 
porary frame  of  boards  six  or  eight  inches  wide  sunk  into 
the  ground  far  enough  to  hold  and  extending  a  few  inches 
above  the  surface  like  a  low  cold-frame.  It  is  not  necessary, 
however,  to  have  a  slope  to  the  front.  The  frame  need  not 
be  large — a  three-by-six  or  a  four-by-four  frame  will  accom- 
modate fifteen  or  twenty  packets  of  seed. 

Preparing  the  Seed  Bed 

The  soil  in  this  frame  should  be  worked  up  and  made  as 
fine  and  smooth  as  possible.  It  should  then  be  topped  off 
with  two  or  three  inches  of  specially  prepared  soil.  This 
is  necessary  because  ordinary  garden  soil  dries  out  or  forms 
a  crust  on  the  surface  that  is  bad  for  the  very  fine  seeds  to 
be  sown,  some  of  them  so  small  that  they  are  merely  pressed 
into  the  soil  instead  of  being  covered. 

Procure  a  quantity  of  leaf  mold  or  very  old,  thoroughly 
rotted  manure,  and  mix  with  some  friable  garden  soil  or 
with  shavings  from  the  under  side  of  sod.  If  the  soil  is 
heavy  add  a  little  sand.  Work  this  all  together  and  then 
pass  it  through  a  coal  sieve  so  that  roots,  lumps,  small 
stones,  and  so  forth,  will  be  removed  and  every  particle  of 
soil  will  be  finely  pulverized.  Spread  this  over  the  surface 
of  your  bed  and  press  it  down  lightly  with  a  small  piece  of 
board;  then  soak  thoroughly  with  a  fine  spray. 

When  water  ceases  to  soak  in  let  it  remain  for  twelve  to 
twenty-four  hours  to  dry  out  slightly  on  the  surface.  Then 
mark  off  little  furrows  three  to  six  inches  apart  and  just  deep 
enough  to  be  visible.  For  the  smaller  seeds  the  mark  is  more 
to  get  them  in  straight  lines  than  to  bury  them.  When  only 
a  few  seeds  are  to  be  sown  deep  flats  may  be  used.  They 


JULY:  SECOND  WEEK  175 

should  be  kept  partly  buried  in  the  ground,  or  in  a  some- 
what shady  place  until  after  germination;  or  a  sheet  of  news- 
paper, moistened,  may  be  placed  over  the  box  during  the 
day  and  removed  in  the  afternoon. 

After  sowing,  the  seeds  should  be  covered  lightly.  Seeds 
the  size  of  pansy  seeds  or  smaller  may  be  pressed  in  with  a 
brick  or  with  the  edge  of  a  board  and  then  barely  covered 
with  a  light  sprinkling  of  prepared  soil.  Larger  seeds,  such 
as  gaillardias  and  pinks,  may  be  covered  a  quarter  of  an 
inch. 

Guard  Against  Damping  Of 

One  of  the  things  most  likely  to  cause  trouble  with  the 
little  seedlings,  especially  in  warm,  damp  weather,  is  damp- 
ing off.  As  a  preventive  sprinkle  flowers  of  sulphur  over  the 
surface  after  the  seeds  are  sown.  Have  a  screen  to  put  in 
place  over  the  seed  bed  or  the  frame.  This  may  be  covered 
with  cheesecloth,  which  lets  a  little  light  through,  or  with 
ordinary  building  laths  nailed  an  inch  apart.  The  frame 
should  be  supported  well  above  the  frame  or  bed  to  permit 
free  circulation  of  air.  Sometimes  sphagnum  moss  or  some 
other  light  mulch  is  laid  over  the  surface  of  the  soil  after 
planting  to  help  keep  it  cool  and  moist;  if  this  is  done  the 
bed  should  be  watched  carefully  daily  and  this  mulching 
removed  when  the  seeds  sprout.  If  left  on  even  a  day  too 
long  it  may  result  in  tall,  spindling  plants. 

As  soon  as  the  little  seedlings  are  well  up  they  should  be 
given  another  thorough  watering  with  a  fine  spray,  as  the 
soil  will  be  getting  dry  and  crusted  again.  Then  cultivate 
the  surface  lightly  between  the  rows  and  as  soon  as  the  first 
true  leaves  appear  thin  the  seedlings  out  where  they  are  too 
thick — a  dozen  strong  plants  will  give  you  much  more  sat- 
isfaction than  fifty  poor  ones.  The  insects  that  are  likely 
to  cause  trouble  to  the  small  seedlings  may  be  guarded 
against  by  sprinkling  tobacco  dust  freely  over  the  bed,  and 
by  spraying  occasionally  with  Bordeaux  mixture. 

In  four  to  eight  weeks  after  sowing  the  seedlings  will  be 
ready  to  transplant.  Most  of  them,  with  protection,  will 


1 76      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

stand  the  winter  in  the  open ;  but  the  most  convenient  way 
of  carrying  them  over  is  to  set  them  a  few  inches  apart  each 
way  in  a  cold-frame  and  transplant  them  again  early  in 
spring. 

There  will  still  be  several  weeks  for  the  little  plants  to 
grow  after  this  first  transplanting  and  the  ground  should  be 
well  enriched.  Use  plenty  of  old  manure,  a  little  fine  bone 
and  a  very  light  sprinkling  of  nitrate  of  soda.  As  the  frame 
may  be  dust  dry  at  this  time  of  the  year,  the  best  way  to  get 
it  back  into  shape  for  planting  is  to  open  up  ditches  with  the 
hoe  as  near  together  as  you  can  make  them,  and  turn  the 
hose  in,  letting  the  ditches  fill  up  several  times.  Then  fork 
the  ground  up  and  if  necessary  repeat  this  operation.  Get 
the  ground  thoroughly  soaked  so  that  conditions  may  be 
just  right  to  induce  rapid  root  growth  on  the  newly  set 
plants. 

Pansies,  and  plants  of  similar  growth,  naturally  make 
stocky  plants,  and  soon  begin  to  crowd  if  not  transplanted 
as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough.  Some  things,  however, 
will  grow  up  tall  and  spindling  if  left  long  in  the  seed  bed; 
to  get  good  plants  they  should  be  transplanted  as  soon  as 
the  third  or  fourth  leaf  shows. 


July:  Third  Week 

SUMMER  WORK  WITH  STRAWBERRIES:  CARE  OF 
THE  SPRING  PLANTED  BED;  REMAKING  THE 
OLD  BED;  POTTED  PLANTS;  STARTING  THE 
NEW  BED;  FALL  BEARING  STRAWBERRIES 

The  home  garden  should  produce  an  abundance  of  straw- 
berries. There  is  little  danger  of  having  too  many,  because 
if  the  bed  should  happen  to  get  ahead  of  the  immediate 
demand  for  the  table  the  surplus  may  easily  be  saved  for 
winter.  Rightly  managed,  a  very  small  space  will  give  an 
ample  supply  for  both  purposes.  Extra-fine  quality  should 
be  the  aim  in  the  home  berry  patch,  and  fortunately,  with 
this  crop,  the  best  quality  and  the  biggest  yield  go  together. 

Berries  can  be  grown  in  almost  any  soil,  but  there  is  con- 
siderable difference  in  adaptation  of  varieties  to  different 
kinds  of  soil.  In  making  a  new  bed  it  is  well  to  select 
varieties  that  you  know  will  thrive  in  soil  similar  to  that 
which  you  have.  When  plenty  of  water  is  available,  how- 
ever, not  so  much  attention  need  be  paid  to  this.  Though 
the  berries  revel  in  an  abundance  of  sunshine,  and  bear 
early  on  a  southern  slope,  the  patch  should  not  be  located 
in  too  sheltered  and  early  a  spot,  or  there  will  be  more 
likelihood  of  loss  through  late  frost.  Again,  irrigation  alters 
the  case,  for  it  may  be  used  for  frost  protection,  and  proper 
handling  of  the  winter  mulch  is  also  a  safeguard. 

Strawberries  are  one  of  the  few  things  that  do  well  on  a 
rather  acid  soil,  so  avoid  ground  that  has  been  recently 
limed.  On  the  other  hand,  the  ground  can  hardly  be  made 
too  rich.  Manure  or  fertilizer  or  both  should  be  used  freely. 
Only  old,  well-rotted  manure  should  be  selected,  and  if  this 
can  be  applied  to  a  crop  preceding  the  berries  so  much  the 
better.  Of  fertilizer,  the  basic  formula,  4^-8-10,  is  the 

177 


1 78      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

best.  It  should  be  thoroughly  worked  into  the  soil  before 
planting,  however,  either  broadcast  or  along  the  row.  Fer- 
tilizer used  directly  under  the  plants  at  the  time  of  setting 
is  very  likely  to  cause  injury. 

The  system  of  growing  most  generally  used  is  the  matted 
or  solid  row.  The  hill  system  has  its  advocates  and  its 
advantages,  but  the  suggestions  herewith,  unless  the  hill 
system  is  mentioned,  apply  to  the  matted  row.  With  this 
system  a  new  bed  is  generally  made  every  second  year, 
or  a  smaller  one,  for  the  same  total  amount  of  space,  every 
year,  so  there  will  be  first  and  second  crop  berries  each 
season. 

Care  of  the  New  Berry  Bed 

Often  the  bed  that  has  grown  two  or  even  three  crops  is 
renewed  in  the  same  place.  Sometimes  the  bed  must  be 
kept  in  the  same  spot,  and  then  this  practice  must  be 
followed.  Generally  it  is  less  work  to  make  a  new  bed. 
The  berry  grower,  then,  finds  himself  at  the  end  of  each 
fruiting  season  with  one  or  all  of  several  different  jobs 
demanding  his  attention:  The  care  of  the  bed  that  has 
just  borne  its  first  crop  of  fruit;  the  maintenance,  if  desired, 
of  the  older  bed;  the  establishing  of  a  new  one,  and  the  care 
of  the  fall  or  spring  planted  patch. 

Care  of  the  new  bed  which  has  borne  for  the  first  time 
depends  largely  upon  the  condition  in  which  it  has  been 
left.  If  there  are  only  a  few  weeds  these  can  be  pulled  out 
or  cut  off  at  or  just  below  the  surface.  Generally,  however, 
the  quickest  and  best  way  is  to  remove  the  mulch  between 
the  rows,  taking  one  row  at  a  time;  to  give  a  thorough  cul- 
tivation, working  in  a  top-dressing  of  fertilizer  at  the  same 
time,  and  then  to  replace  the  mulch. 

Another  advantage  of  thus  removing  the  mulch  is  that 
then  the  rows  can  the  better  be  trimmed  up  to  their  bounds; 
they  should  not  be  over  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  wide. 
Runners,  or  plants  that  have  rooted  beyond  these  limits, 
should  be  cut  off;  the  tendency  of  almost  all  plants  of  all 
varieties  is  to  form  too  many  new  plants.  If  you  want  good 


JULY:  THIRD  WEEK  179 

fruit  the  second  season  this  must  be  guarded  against  by 
cutting  out  a  good  many  of  the  runners  and  plants,  even  in 
the  row.  The  plants  should  be  five  or  six  inches  apart  in  all 
directions  for  the  best  results;  closer  than  this,  they  crowd 
each  other  for  light  and  air  and  there  is  not  enough  plant 
food  to  go  round,  resulting  in  a  crop  of  undersized,  unsatis- 
factory berries. 

Renewing  an  Old  Berry  Patch 

When  it  is  necessary  or  desirable  to  remake  or  to  con- 
tinue the  old  bed  that  has  rooted  two  seasons  or  more, 
drastic  measures  must  be  used.  As  soon  as  the  last  berries 
are  picked,  cut  the  rows  over  close  with  a  scythe  or  a  sickle, 
and  rake  with  an  iron  rake;  do  not  be  afraid  of  giving 
rough  treatment,  as  it  makes  little  difference  how  many 
plants  are  pulled  out.  Burn  the  rakings  to  destroy  any  eggs 
or  disease  spores. 

Then  go  over  each  row,  cutting  out  the  oldest  plants  and 
most  of  the  new  ones.  Leave  new,  strong  crowns  eight 
to  twelve  inches  apart.  A  handy  tool  for  this  job  is  the 
small  combination  hoe  and  prong  hoe,  which  has  teeth 
on  one  side  and  a  narrow  blade  on  the  other.  The  blade 
should  be  well  sharpened,  so  it  can  be  used  to  cut  off  run- 
ners and  to  cut  out  plants,  while  the  teeth  come  in  handy 
for  raking  them  out  after  they  are  cut. 

The  result  may  be  a  pretty  sick-looking,  skimpy  bed,  but 
do  not  worry  about  that.  Give  a  good  top-dressing  of  a 
complete  fertilizer.  This  may  be  broadcast  over  the  plants 
if  you  give  it  a  thorough  watering  afterward  to  wash 
it  off  the  leaves  and  down  into  the  soil.  A  light  top- 
dressing  of  nitrate  of  soda  should  be  given  in  addition 
to  the  fertilizer. 

Another  method  of  renewing  an  old  bed  is  to  cultivate 
the  passages  between  the  rows;  rake  them  over  carefully 
and  then  root  runners  from  either  side.  After  these  are 
established  cut  them  off,  and  pull  out  the  old  rows. 


i8o      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Where  to  Start  the  New  Bed 

The  making  of  a  new  bed  of  garden  size  is  not  a  difficult 
task.  The  plants,  being  set  out  in  late  July  or  August, 
usually  follow  some  earlier  crop.  For  best  results  the  ground 
should  be  as  thoroughly  prepared  as  for  spring  planting. 
If  a  horse  is  available  thorough  cultivation  with  narrow 
teeth  will  be  the  best  way  of  getting  the  ground  into  shape; 
or  the  soil  may  be  turned  over  with  the  hand-plow  attach- 
ment of  the  wheel  hoe,  or  forked  up.  In  any  case,  get  it 
fine  and  loose  and  mellow.  Do  not  attempt  to  plant  by 
simply  digging  out  holes  in  which  the  plants  may  be  set 
in  hard-packed  soil.  The  strawberry  crop  depends  almost 
entirely  upon  the  development  of  the  large,  fleshy  roots 
made  the  previous  season.  Only  by  having  the  soil  in  the 
best  mechanical  condition  can  best  results  be  obtained. 
Grass  or  sod  ground  should  be  avoided  because  of  the  prob- 
ability of  injury  from  white  grubs,  the  larvae  of  the  June 
beetle,  which  attack  the  newly  set  plants.  Select,  if  pos- 
sible, a  patch  in  the  garden  that  was  well  manured  in  spring 
and  has  not  been  in  sod  for  two  or  three  years.  Such  a 
soil  with  a  top-dressing  before  planting  of  a  high-grade 
complete  fertilizer— five  pounds  or  so  to  each  one  hundred 
square  feet — will  make  a  beginning  from  which  an  early 
crop  may  confidently  be  expected. 

The  plants  should  have  a  clean  bill  of  health;  the  most 
frequent  cause  of  injury  from  disease  is  planting  from  in- 
fected plants.  They  should  be  young,  vigorous  and  as 
fresh  as  possible.  The  roots  of  plants  received  by  mail 
or  express  should  be  still  in  a  fairly  moist  condition.  If 
they  are  very  dry  immerse  them  in  water  up  to  but  not 
over  the  crowns.  If  the  stems  have  not  been  sufficiently 
trimmed  at  the  nursery  this  should  be  done  before  they  are 
soaked.  The  best  plan  is  to  puddle  them  in  a  thin  clay-soil 
mud,  which  will  adhere  evenly  to  the  roots;  removed  from 
the  puddle  and  planted  promptly,  the  soil  will  be  brought 
into  intimate  contact  with  the  roots,  favoring  a  quick 
new  start.  The  leaves,  if  large,  should  be  trimmed  back 


PLATE  17. — Making  potted  strawberry  plants.  The  pot  filled  with  soil  is 
sunk  level  with  the  surface  and  the  runner  held  in  place  with  a  clothes  pin  or 
small  stone.  (Lower)  In  taking  up  rooted  runners  for  setting  out  a  new 
strawberry  bed,  get  all  the  roots  and  soil  possible.  Avoid  diseased  plants 
with  purplish  discoloration  of  the  leaves  like  that  shown  at  the  right  of 
picture. 


JULY:  THIRD  WEEK  181 

and  any  that  show  the  slightest  trace  of  blight  or  leaf  spots 
should  be  removed;  it  is  better  if  all  such  plants  are  im- 
mediately discarded. 

In  setting  the  plants,  three  things  should  be  kept  in  mind: 
Set  on  a  freshly  prepared  surface;  get  the  plants  in  firmly; 
cover  them  well  up  to  but  not  over  the  crowns.  If  irrigation 
is  available  get  the  soil  fairly  moist  before  planting,  then 
give  a  thorough  watering  after  the  plants  are  in. 

Getting  Plants  for  the  New  Bed 

To  root  your  own  supply  of  plants,  select  only  good 
healthy  vines,  and  work  the  ground  into  good  condition, 
just  as  the  runners  start,  so  they  will  have  a  congenial 
place  in  which  to  establish  themselves.  The  first  or  tip 
plants  from  the  runners  and  the  first  one  or  two  runners 
thrown  out  by  the  plant  are  usually  the  strongest  and  are 
ready  the  earliest. 

To  get  ideal  plants — those  which  with  proper  care  will 
give  a  full  crop  of  the  largest  berries  the  first  spring  after 
planting — buy  or  root  for  yourself  potted  plants.  These 
cost  more  and  are  a  little  more  trouble  to  get  or  to  produce, 
but  they  are  worth  the  difference.  Good  potted  plants  of 
the  standard  varieties  cost  about  three  cents  apiece.  To 
produce  them  from  the  old  bed  all  that  is  required  is  a 
supply  of  small  pots.  The  soil  is  made  mellow,  as  for  or- 
dinary layer  plants,  the  pots  are  filled  with  earth  and  sunk 
to  the  rims,  and  the  runners  are  held  in  place  over  them  with 
small  stones,  small  twigs  or  clothes  pins,  so  that  they  will 
not  be  blown  out  of  position. 

"Matted  Row"  vs.  "Hill"  System 

In  planting  for  the  matted  row,  the  rows  are  marked  off 
two  or  three  feet  apart  and  the  plants  are  set  from  twelve 
to  eighteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  When  new  runners 
start  these  are  rooted  between  and  to  the  sides  of  the  original 
plants  until  a  solid  mat  some  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches 


182      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

wide  is  established.    The  plants  in  the  mat  should  not  be 
closer  than  five  or  six  inches. 

For  the  hill  system  of  cultivation  the  plants  should  be 
set  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  apart  each  way  in  beds  of  two 
to  four  rows,  with  eighteen  or  twenty-four  inch  paths  be- 
tween the  beds.  To  achieve  success  with  hill  culture  it  is 
necessary  that  all  runners  be  cut  off  as  soon  as  they  appear 
in  the  fall  after  planting.  For  this  reason  the  plants  should 
be  set  out  as  soon  as  possible,  preferably  in  July,  and  surely 
not  later  than  mid-August.  In  rich  soil  with  plenty  of 
moisture  and  good  cultivation  the  plant  will  have  a  solid 
bushy  crown  nearly  a  foot  across  ready  to  produce  a  splendid 
crop  of  fruit  the  following  June. 

Fall  Fruiting  Strawberries 

In  setting  out  new  plants  do  not  fail  to  include  a  few  of 
the  fall-fruiting  or  ever-bearing  varieties,  which  have 
now  been  developed  to  a  point  where  the  fruit  is  of  really 
fine  quality  and  of  good  size.  Progressive  and  Superb  are 
the  two  best  varieties  of  this  type  yet  introduced.  They  are 
quite  distinct  and  it  would  be  well  to  plant  a  few  of  each. 
Plants  set  out  now  will  fruit  next  June,  but  for  a  big  fall 
supply  the  blossoms  should  be  picked  off  the  first  part  of 
the  summer. 

The  mulch  should  not  be  applied  until  after  the  ground 
freezes,  but  it  is  well  to  make  provision  for  it  early  in  the 
fall.  Clean  marsh  hay  may  be  obtained  in  many  localities, 
and  there  is  nothing  better.  It  is  free  from  weed  seeds  and 
does  not  blow  about  so  much  as  straw,  nor  pack  down  like 
leaves  or  strawy  manure.  In  northern  sections  three  to 
five  inches  of  mulch  is  advisable.  Even  where  it  is  not 
necessary  for  winter  and  spring  protection  of  the  plants, 
the  mulch  is  of  use  the  following  season  in  keeping  the  ber- 
ries clean  and  conserving  the  soil  moisture. 


July:  Fourth  Week 

LINKING  THE  GARDEN  TO  THE  HOUSE:  SUMMER 
HOUSES;  PERGOLAS;  TRELLISES;  VINES  TO 
COVER  THEM 

Just  as  a  home  is  more  than  a  house,  so  the  garden  should 
be  more  than  beds  of  vegetables  and  flowers.  It  should 
have  individuality  and  character;  should  be  a  place  that 
seems  inviting,  in  which  provision  is  made  for  resting  as 
well  as  for  work. 

Some  of  the  things  that  give  a  garden  attractiveness  of 
this  kind  are  arbors,  pergolas,  summer  houses,  garden  seats, 
sundials,  and  so  on.  Many  kinds  of  garden  furniture  may 
be  bought,  but  there  is  almost  always  more  satisfaction  in 
making  the  things  yourself. 

The  pergola  may  be  as  simple  or  as  elaborate  as  you  wish. 
It  should,  of  course,  be  in  keeping  with  the  architectural 
style  of  the  house.  Though  primarily  made  for  beauty, 
it  has  a  utilitarian  purpose  in  furnishing  shade  or  serving 
as  a  support  for  a  grapevine  or  rose  bush.  The  lumber 
may  be  bought  ready  sawed  or  planed,  or  even  unsawed 
posts  may  be  used. 

A  home-made  pergola  of  round  unsawed  chestnut,  most 
of  the  material  for  which  was  supplied  by  the  home  wood 
lot,  is  shown  in  illustration  Plate  15.  This  pergola  ex- 
tended from  the  house  to  the  barn,  and  a  small  summer 
house  was  built  into  it  halfway,  making  a  delightful  rest 
room  for  hot  summer  days.  In  many  places  a  pergola 
over  the  path  from  the  house  to  the  garage  or  tool  shed, 
with  an  open  summer  house  like  this,  would  be  a  constant 
pleasure  throughout  the  summer. 

The  posts  in  this  instance  are  set  five  by  eight  feet.  The 
posts  are  eight  feet  long  and  are  somewhat  smaller  than 

'83 


184 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


ordinary  fence  posts.  Cedar  posts  would  be  even  more 
attractive.  The  costs  of  posts  would  probably  vary  from 
ten  to  twenty-five  cents  each.  With  the  uprights  set  eight 
feet  apart,  the  crosspieces  on  top  may  be  placed  either 


PERGOLA 


rtsfn 

6' 

Ground 

WWWW! 

f  8'  —  \~* 

Line 

^WSKfeXfc 

ELEVATION 


TOP 
* 8' 1 


tz/ 

Ground 

r—  5  —"3 

6' 

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SS5SS8W 

END 


Crosspiece 

at 


Stringer^ 
Upright' 

SIDE  DETAIL 


END  DETAIL 


twenty-four  or  thirty-two  inches  apart.  These  should  be 
seven  feet  long.  The  stringers  upon  which  the  crosspieces 
rest  should  be  eight  feet  long  and  should  be  slightly  notched 
to  hold  the  crosspieces.  An  auger  post-hole  digger  is  gener- 
ally the  most  convenient  tool  with  which  to  set  the  posts. 

A  Gas-Pipe  Pergola 

An  excellent  support  for  a  grapevine  and  one  that  will 
last  practically  forever  can  be  made  of  secondhand  gas 
pipe  instead  of  wood.  Clamp  fittings  will  save  threading  the 


JULY:  FOURTH  WEEK 


I85 


pipe.  The  uprights  should  be  an  inch  and  a  half,  the  string- 
ers an  inch  and  a  quarter  and  the  crosspieces  one-inch 
pipe;  although  a  size  smaller  in  each  case  would  stand  up 
for  all  ordinary  purposes.  The  uprights  should  be  sup- 
ported on  flat  stones  or  bricks,  or  set  in  concrete.  Second- 
hand gas  or  water  pipe  can  often  be  bought  very  cheap. 
The  fittings  may  be  obtained  from  a  greenhouse-supply 
company,  and  the  only  tools  necessary  to  set  up  the  per- 
gola, if  the  pipe  has  been  cut  the  proper  lengths,  will  be  a 
couple  of  monkey  wrenches.  If  a  support  for  grapes  or 
roses  is  wanted  a  pergola  of  this  kind  will  be  found  neat, 
cheap,  durable  and  strong. 


ELEVATION 


A  Simple  Inexpensive  Summer  House 

Desirable  as  a  pergola  is,  a  small  summer  house  will 
probably  give  more  satisfaction  and  comfort  for  the  money. 
A  simple  form  of  such  a  house  is  shown  in 
illustration   Plate    15.      The   floor  is   of         SUMMER  HOUSE 
planed  boards,  matched,  supported  on  two- 
by-four-inch  stringers;  the  roof  is  of  rough 
square-edged  boards,  covered  with  a  good 
grade  of    roofing    paper.     If   preferred, 
shingles  may  be  used. 

The  roof  in  this  case  is  supported  by 
round  unsawed  posts  of  chestnut,  although 
cedar  or  cypress  could  be  substituted  to 
advantage.  The  posts  are  set  firmly  into 
the  ground  six  feet  apart  in  a  twelve- 
foot  circle. 

Six  two-by-four-inch  stringers  to  sup- 
port the  floor  are  spaced  two  feet  apart 
and  the  flooring  is  run  at  right  angles  to 
them.  Six  two-by-four-inch  stringers  sup- 
port the  roof,  which  pitches  three  feet  from  center  to 
eaves.  To  make  the  roof  sufficiently  stiff  furring  strips 
of  one-by-two-inch  stuff  are  put  between  the  rafters. 

On  one  side  two  uprights  form  a  door  frame.    Slabs  are 


FLOOR  PLAN 


186      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

run  round  part  way  up  to  stiffen  the  screen  cloth  or  netting. 
The  cost  of  the  material,  not  including  the  screen  cloth,  is 
about  as  follows: 

6  posts $o.  75 

200  feet  2  by  4*s 2.75 

250  feet  board . 5 .  oo 

100  feet  furring i .  oo 

2  rolls  roofing  paper 5 .  oo 

Nails,  etc 50 


Total $15.00 

Another  form  of  small  summer  house,  costing  only  part 
of  the  above,  can  be  made  by  erecting  the  framework  of 
the  house  described  and  using  hardy  vines  or  rapid-growing 
annuals  to  cover  it.  The  outlay  in  this  case  would  be  very 
small. 

Protect  the  Trellis  from  Rot 

Trellises  are  made  in  all  shapes  and  sizes.  Small  ones 
of  iron  and  galvanized  wire  will  outlast  a  dozen  wooden 
ones,  but  in  many  cases,  wooden  trellises  are  still  desir- 
able both  because  of  cheapness  and  because  they  can  be 
made  of  the  exact  size  and  shape  desired.  The  two  mistakes 
generally  made  in  building  trellises  are  leaving  them  un- 
protected where  they  enter  the  ground  and  building  them 
too  close  to  the  house. 

If  the  woodwork  is  protected  where  it  enters  the  ground 
and  an  occasional  coat  of  paint  is  given,  a  trellis  will  last 
indefinitely.  The  best  and  most  permanent  footing  can  be 
made  of  a  few  short  pieces  of  angle  iron,  with  holes  at  one 
end,  bolted  to  the  wooden  uprights.  These  may  be  driven 
into  the  ground  or  set  in  concrete.  They  should  extend  a 
foot  or  so  above  ground,  so  the  wood  will  be  well  above 
any  grass  or  mulching  that  might  collect  moisture  and  cause 
rotting. 

If  this  is  too  much  trouble  at  least  reenforce  the  base 
by  driving  down  extra  pieces,  or  by  nailing  or  bolting  the 


JULY:  FOURTH  WEEK 


187 


trellis  to  an  extra-heavy  foot  piece,  and  giving  the  whole 
base,  before  it  is  put  into  the  ground,  a  coating  of  wood 
preservative  or  heavy  tar  paint. 


Ground 


REINFORCED  TRELUS  FOOTING 


ANGLE-IRON  FOOTING 
FOR  TRELLIS 


Vines  for  Pergolas  and  Trellises;  Sundials 

The  grapevine  is  not  half  appreciated  for  use  on  trellises 
about  the  porch;  its  big  leaves  furnish  summer-long  shade 
and  in  addition  there  - 

is  fruit  in  the  fall.  Two 
by  seven-eighths-inch 
furring,  which  may  be 
bought  in  bundles  of 
fifty  feet  at  any  build- 
er's makes  ideal  mater- 
ial for  trellis  work.  The 
main  supports  should 
be  made  of  heavier 
s  t  u  ff,  measuring  at 
least  two  by  two  inches 
or  two  by  three  inches. 
A  simple  form  of  con- 
struction is  shown  in 
the  accompanying  cut. 

Much  of  the  success 
to  be  had  with  vines, 
climbing  roses,  and  so 
forth,  used  to  cover 
pergolas,  arbors,  trel- 
lises, summer  houses, 
and  the  like,  will  depend  upon  the  preparation  of  the  soil  in 
which  the  things  are  planted.  Frequently  the  soil  has  not 
been  used  for  garden  purposes  and  is  very  poor.  When  you 
are  building  it  will  take  very  little  more  time  to  dig 
out  and  properly  prepare  a  bed  for  planting.  Dig  out  to 
a  depth  of  a  foot  and  a  half,  saving  the  good  soil  to 
use  again  and  discarding  the  subsoil  and  litter.  Fill  in 
With  good  earth  well  enriched  with  manure  and  coarse 


VERANDA  TRELLIS 


1 88       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

ground  or  knuckle  bone.  If  the  soil  is  heavy  or  the  sub- 
soil is  hard  a  layer  of  gravel,  coal  ashes,  old  plaster  or 
similar  things  should  be  placed  at  the  bottom  for  drainage. 

A  sun  dial  almost  always  adds  to  the  attractiveness  of 
the  formal  or  semiformal  garden.  But  it  should  not  be 
left  to  stick  up  by  itself.  If  the  pedestal  is  tall  some  half- 
climbing  plant  may  be  trained  about  it.  Baby-rambler 
roses  are  especially  attractive  for  use  about  the  sun  dial, 
as  they  bloom  continuously  and  are  very  hardy. 

Unless  the  garden  is  formal,  a  field  bowlder  of  suitable 
shape  and  size,  nicely  weathered,  and  if  possible  put  in 
position  without  disturbing  the  lichens,  will  make  a  much 
more  suitable  support  for  the  sun  dial  than  will  a  formal 
pedestal. 


July:  Fifth  Week 

CROPS  THAT  MAKE  THE  GARDEN  RICH:  "GREEN 
MANURING;"  "SOIL  BINDERS "  FOR  WINTER 
COVER;  INOCULATING  TO  INSURE  SUCCESS 

The  gardener  who  can  buy,  at  a  reasonable  price,  all  the 
stable  manure  he  needs,  is  the  exception.  Most  gardeners 
these  days  are  compelled  to  rely  upon  commercial  fertil- 
izers to  enrich  their  gardens.  It  frequently  happens  that 
these  are  found  to  give  good  results  for  two  or  three  years, 
only  to  be  followed  by  decreasing  yields  and  soil  that 
packs  hard  or  cakes.  The  reason  is  that  when  you  turn 
under  a  good  coating  of  manure  in  your  garden,  you  add 
not  only  the  various  plant  foods — nitrogen,  phosphoric 
acid  and  potash — but  also  a  large  amount  of  decayed  or 
decaying  vegetable  matter,  or  humus,  and  millions  of  tiny 
garden  helpers  in  the  form  of  friendly  bacteria  which  at- 
tack the  inert  stores  of  plant  food  in  the  soil,  making  them 
available  for  use. 

Some  of  these  microscopic  bugs  have  a  special  faculty  of 
absorbing  nitrogen  from  the  air,  making  it  available  for 
the  crop  upon  whose  roots  they  house,  and  for  other  crops 
that  may  follow.  The  nitrogen-fixing  bacteria  live  upon 
the  roots  of  the  legumes — peas,  beans,  vetches  and  clovers. 

A  large  number  of  crops  may  be  utilized  to  make  the 
ground  richer.  As  fast  as  a  strip  of  ground  is  cleared,  even 
if  it  is  but  a  single  row,  it  should  be  sown  to  a  cover  crop 
to  be  spaded  under  next  spring.  Besides  adding  humus  and 
making  conditions  favorable  to  the  development  of  bac- 
teria, there  are  several  advantages  in  having  a  growing  crop 
on  the  ground  throughout  the  winter.  Such  a  crop  forages 
the  lower  layers  of  the  soil  for  food  that  most  of  the  vege- 
table plants  cannot  reach,  and  brings  it  to  the  surface;  it 

189 


igo       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

captures  remnants  of  plant  food  that  would  leach  away 
during  the  winter,  and  holds  them  in  storage  until  they  are 
required  again  next  summer.  Whenever  possible  one  of  the 
legume  crops  should  be  given  preference.  Which  is  best 
for  a  particular  job  will  depend  upon  conditions.  If  the 
ground  is  not  to  be  utilized  again  until  the  spring,  one  of  the 
hardy  kinds,  which  will  continue  growth  until  after  the 
ground  is  frozen  hard  and  will  begin  again  before  it  is  thor- 
oughly thawed,  should  be  selected. 

Crops  for  Green  Manuring 

If  the  ground  is  to  be  planted  or  trenched  again  this  fall, 
there  is  still  time  to  grow  a  heavy  covering  of  beans,  soy 
beans,  cowpeas  or  field  peas.  The  last  named  are  the  hard- 
iest and  will  stand  light  freezing.  If  you  have  a  horse  or  a 
cow  any  of  these  may  be  fed  green  or  cured  for  hay,  while 
the  stubble  and  the  roots  improve  the  mechanical  condition 
of  the  soil  and  add  humus  and  nitrogen. 

Rye  and  vetch  sown  after  early  potatoes  or  sweet  corn, 
or  some  other  crop  harvested  by  early  autumn,  can  be 
allowed  to  mature  enough  to  make  hay  the  following  spring, 
before  the  later  vegetables,  such  as  tomatoes,  melons  and 
cucumbers,  need  to  be  planted. 

Field  peas  are  quite  similar  to  the  ordinary,  climbing 
garden  peas.  When  they  are  to  be  allowed  to  get  their 
full  growth  oats  or  rye  should  be  sown  with  them  to  furnish 
a  support.  There  are  several  varieties:  Canada  peas  are 
the  hardiest;  the  marrowfats  are  of  more  luxuriant  growth. 
A  peck  will  plant  a  piece  fifty  by  fifty  feet,  if  they  are  to  be 
spaded  under.  To  mature,  fewer  would  be  required. 

Cowpeas  are  more  like  beans  than  peas.  New  Era  is  a 
rapid-growing  variety;  a  peck  will  be  sufficient  for  a  plot 
fifty  by  a  hundred  feet.  Soy  beans  somewhat  resemble 
garden  beans,  but  grow  very  much  larger.  A  good  method 
of  utilizing  these  is  to  have  a  supply  on  hand,  and  interplant 
them  with  other  crops  that  will  mature  within  two  or  three 
weeks.  Planted  in  this  way,  between  the  rows  of  sweet 


JULY:  FIFTH  WEEK  191 

corn,  early  potatoes,  lettuce,  radishes,  and  so  forth,  the 
beans  will  have  the  ground  well  covered  soon  after  the 
other  crops  are  off,  with  a  valuable  supply  of  humus-forming 
material  to  be  turned  under  just  before  killing  frosts.  They 
mature  in  about  a  hundred  days,  but  for  spading  under 
they  may  be  sown  now.  Plant  as  you  would  ordinary  dwarf 
beans. 

Two  other  late-summer  catch  crops  of  value  on  the  home 
acre  are  dwarf  Essex  rape  and  buckwheat.  Rape  is  one  of 
the  quickest-growing  of  all  catch  crops,  and  when  a  supply 
of  green  feed  can  be  utilized  late  in  the  summer  by  a  cow,  a 
pig,  a  horse  or  even  chickens,  a  supply  of  seed  should  be 
kept  on  hand  and  sown  in  any  vacant  rows  or  between  rows 
of  nearly  matured  vegetables.  The  seed  costs  only  twelve 
to  fifteen  cents  a  pound  and  two  or  three  pounds  will  be 
ample  for  use  in  this  way.  Under  favorable  conditions  the 
crop  will  be  big  enough  to  use  within  six  to  eight  weeks 
after  sowing. 

If  bees  are  kept,  or  there  are  chickens  to  be  fed,  a  small 
patch  of  buckwheat  should  be  put  in.  For  the  bees  a  few 
rows  through  the  garden  will  answer.  For  mature  grain 
it  should  be  sown  at  once;  for  a  winter  mulch,  sown  with 
crimson  clover,  or  for  spading  under  this  fall,  it  may  be 
sown  at  any  time  during  the  next  two  or  three  weeks. 

" Soil  Binders"  for  Winter  Cover 

If  your  soil  is  likely  to  wash  or  to  blow,  any  parts  of  the 
garden  that  are  growing  late  crops  should  be  planted  as 
soon  as  they  are  cleared  this  fall  with  crimson  clover,  vetch 
and  rye,  or  rye  alone.  In  latitudes  north  of  New  York  the 
clover  is  liable  to  winter-kill,  although  this  can  be  guarded 
against  to  some  extent  by  sowing  buckwheat  with  it.  A 
pound  of  seed,  costing  about  fifteen  cents,  will  be  plenty  for 
a  fifty-by-fifty-foot  patch.  It  will  be  ready  to  cut  green 
for  the  family  cow  or  to  spade  under  early  in  May.  If 
crimson  clover  may  be  killed,  vetch  should  be  used.  Either 
one  may  be  sown  for  three  or  four  weeks  yet,  but  the  earlier 


192      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

the  better,  particularly  in  the  case  of  the  clover,  as  the  roots 
are  better  protected  if  it  has  a  chance  to  make  considera- 
ble growth  before  hard  freezing.  For  a  fifty-by-fifty-foot 
patch  about  four  pounds  of  vetch  seed  will  be  required, 
with  about  half  that  amount  of  rye  or  wheat. 

The  vetch  may  be  sown  as  late  as  early  October,  but  to 
be  ready  to  fork  under  early  in  spring  it  should  be  put  in  in 
August  or  early  September.  A  good  way  is  to  sow  it  with 
the  seed  drill  between  the  rows  of  maturing  vegetables. 
Rye  will  make  a  good  start  and  come  safely  through  even 
severe  winters  when  sown  after  the  last  hardy  vegetables 
have  been  taken  up  in  late  October  or  November.  Use 
a  peck  or  so  of  seed  for  a  fifty-by-fifty-foot  space. 

At  that  time  of  the  year  there  is  likely  to  be  continuous 
dry  weather.  Sow  in  ground  that  has  been  specially  dug 
or  cultivated.  Get  the  seed  well  firmed  in;  roll  with  as 
heavy  a  roller  as  possible  when  the  seed  is  sown  broadcast. 
It  is  of  importance,  too,  to  have  strong,  fresh  seed.  If  you 
buy  locally  get  seed  with  a  name  behind  it. 

Assure  Success  by  Inoculation 

Success  with  the  various  legumes  cannot  be  made  certain, 
even  when  good  seed  is  used  and  conditions  are  favorable, 
unless  the  bacteria  that  live  upon  the  particular  kind  of 
plants  to  be  sown  are  present  in  the  soil. 

When  a  crop  of  the  same  kind  has  been  grown  on  your 
piece  of  ground,  even  if  a  number  of  years  before,  the  soil 
will  usually  be  found  all  right  in  this  respect.  But  when  a 
new  thing  is  to  be  used  artificial  inoculation  may  be  em- 
ployed, at  very  little  cost,  to  make  success  more  sure.  Soil 
in  which  plants  of  the  same  kind  have  been  grown  will 
answer  the  purpose.  It  should  be  freshly  dug,  kept  from 
the  sunlight,  applied  on  a  cloudy  day  or  late  in  the  after- 
noon, and  immediately  harrowed  or  raked  in;  otherwise, 
the  bacteria  may  be  killed  in  the  operation.  A  peck  or 
two  will  make  an  ample  dressing  for  a  fifty-by-fifty-foot 
plot. 


JULY:  FIFTH  WEEK  193 

Inoculation  with  artificial  cultures  has  now  come  into 
general  use.  Like  many  other  of  the  newer  methods,  you 
will  find  that  it  is  very  simple. 

The  bacteria  are  kept  and  transported  in  a  "medium"  or 
jelly,  which  must  be  diluted  according  to  direction  and 
spread  over  the  seeds,  which  are  then  thoroughly  mixed 
so  that  each  one  receives  a  thin  coating  of  the  solution.  The 
bacteria,  which  live  and  work  upon  the  roots,  are  ready  to 
take  up  their  abode  immediately  the  plant  germinates. 
Prepared  " humus"  is  now  used  as  a  "container"  for  these 
bacteria,  and  will  keep  longer  than  the  jelly  mediums. 

Usually  where  one  kind  of  clover  has  been  grown  others 
can  be  started  without  any  trouble.  But  when  you  plant 
things  which  you  have  not  grown  in  your  garden  before, 
such  as  winter  vetch,  soy  beans,  cowpeas  or  alfalfa,  or  for 
garden  peas  and  beans,  if  you  do  not  seem  to  have  success 
with  them,  get  a  small  bottle  of  the  bacteria  and  inoculate 
your  seed  before  planting. 

As  in  the  case  of  the  bacteria  in  the  soil,  those  in  the  ar- 
tificial culture  are  very  quickly  injured  by  exposure  to  the 
bright  sunshine  or  to  any  drying  wind.  The  seed  should  not 
be  treated  until  you  are  all  ready  to  plant. 


August:  First  Week 

GETTING  HOUSE  PLANTS  READY  FOR  WINTER 
BLOOM:  NEW  PLANTS  FROM  SEEDS  AND 
CUTTINGS;  SUMMER  CARE  OF  POTTED 
PLANTS;  PLANTS  FROM  THE  GARI7EN  FOR 
WINTER  FLOWERING;  MAKING  NEW  RUB- 
BER PLANTS 

The  success  of  next  winter's  window  garden  depends  to  a 
very  great  extent  upon  what  you  do  with  your  plants  now. 
Any  plant  that  is  to  be  forced,  or  grown  under  unnatural 
conditions,  must  be  carefully  prepared  for  the  extra  tax 
put  upon  it. 

Several  classes  of  plants  are  available  for  winter  use. 
There  are  the  regular  house  plants,  which  are  carried  over 
from  year  to  year  and  are  kept  solely  for  this  purpose;  there 
are  new  plants,  obtained  now  and  put  into  shape  for  the 
winter's  work;  and  there  are  some  outdoor  garden  plants 
that  are  suitable  for  continued  use  indoors  when  their 
duties  in  the  open  flower  beds  are  over.  In  addition,  when 
one  has  a  small  greenhouse  or  hot-bed  available  for  spring 
use,  a  few  of  some  of  the  bedding  plants  may  be  kept  over 
for  stock  plants,  from  which  to  obtain  cuttings  early  next 
spring. 

It  is  not  difficult  to  obtain  all  the  plants  for  which  there  is 
likely  to  be  room  in  the  house,  and  to  have  them  in  the  best 
of  shape,  if  the  work  is  taken  in  hand  now.  Usually  this 
work  is  left  until  the  last  minute,  when  choice  is  limited,  and 
most  of  the  plants  wanted  are  lost  through  a  too  sudden 
change  from  outdoor  to  indoor  conditions.  Plants  for  use 
this  winter  may  be  propagated  now  from  cuttings  or  seeds 
and  will  make  thrifty  young  plants  that  will  give  ideal 
results;  small  plants  may  be  bought  now  from  the  florist  at  a 

194 


^  PLATE  19. — Modern  methods  of  blanching  celery  in  the  home  garden  greatly 
simplify  the  work  of  growing  it.  Late  celery  for  use  until  Christmas  or  so, 
can  be  stored  and  blanched  as  in  the  lower  photograph. 


PLATE  20. — Saving  a  summer  plant  for  winter  bloom.  Cut  carefully 
about  the  ball  of  roots  before  lifting  it;  and  then  prune  the  top  back  severely, 
as  in  the  lower  picture,  before  potting  it. 


AUGUST:  FIRST  WEEK  IQS 

fraction  of  the  price  that  will  have  to  be  paid  a  few  months 
hence;  or  some  of  the  plants  that  were  set  out  in  the  garden 
last  spring  may  be  taken  up  and  potted  now. 

Of  these  several  methods  the  most  difficult  is  to  take  up 
plants  from  the  garden  and  make  pot  plants  of  them.  Yet 
this  method  has  several  advantages.  The  plants  cost  noth- 
ing, you  may  select  those  of  good  shape,  health  and  strength, 
and  in  any  particular  color  and  variety.  With  plants 
grown  from  mixed  seed  these  last  points  are  important. 

"Potting  up"  from  the  Garden 

To  be  sure  of  saving  the  plant  and  to  give  it  the  least  set- 
back in  transplanting,  the  process  should  cover  two  or  three 
weeks.  With  a  sharp  trowel  or  a  long-bladed  knife  cut  a 
half  or  a  third  round  the  plant,  with  the  blade  slanted  in 
toward  the  root;  the  circle  formed  in  this  preliminary  root 
pruning  should  be  a  little  smaller  than  the  inside  circum- 
ference of  the  pot  to  which  the  plant  is  to  be  transferred— 
usually  a  four,  five  or  six  inch  one.  At  the  same  time  re- 
move any  buds  or  blossoms  there  may  be,  and  cut  back  the 
plant  quite  severely,  removing  some  of  the  oldest  growth. 
Later  make  another  cut  round  the  plant.  After  two  or  three 
operations  take  out  the  plant  carefully,  cutting  off  clean  all 
the  long  roots  underneath.  Give  a  thorough  soaking  some 
hours  before  "lifting"  the  plant,  if  the  soil  is  dry.  Then 
pot  up  carefully  and  keep  in  partial  shade,  under  a  tree  or 
on  the  veranda,  for  a  week  or  so.  Cutting  the  roots  in  ad- 
vance of  potting  gives  the  plant  a  chance  to  recover  from 
the  shock  and  also  to  form  the  feeding  new  roots  that  must 
be  produced  before  it  can  establish  itself  in  the  pot. 

Old  plants  that  are  kept  from  year  to  year  should  receive 
treatment  according  to  their  kind.  Those  that  flower  in 
winter  should  be  rested  during  the  first  part  of  the  summer, 
but  started  into  more  active  growth  about  this  time  so  they 
will  be  in  the  pink  of  condition  for  the  beginning  of  the 
winter  season.  They  may  be  cut  back  quite  severely,  leav- 
ing a  framework  of  strong  wood  upon  which  the  new  growth 


ig6      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

of  foliage  and  flowers  is  to  be  produced.  Unless  they  were 
repotted  in  the  spring  they  should  be  shifted  now,  and 
usually  it  is  best  to  use  a  pot  only  one  size  larger. 

Summer  Care  of  Potted  Plants 

During  hot  weather  the  plants  will  thrive  better  if  the 
pots  are  sunk  up  to  the  rims  in  the  ground  under  a  tree  or 
where  they  will  be  in  the  shade  at  midday.  Two-thirds  of 
the  work  of  watering  may  be  saved  in  this  way,  and  the 
soil  kept  more  evenly  moist.  To  prevent  the  plants'  rooting 
through  into  the  soil  below,  a  small  cork  or  wooden  plug  may 
be  put  into  the  drainage  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot, 
leaving  just  enough  of  an  opening  so  that  all  surplus  water 
can  drain  out. 

A  cone-shaped  plunger,  five  or  six  inches  across  the  top 
and  tapering  to  a  sharp  point,  with  a  handle  attached, 
should  be  used  to  make  the  holes  in  which  the  pots  are 
placed.  This  will  save  a  great  deal  of  work,  will  make  a 
hole  of  any  diameter,  and  will  leave  a  small  air  space  di- 
rectly under  each  pot,  preventing  soil  worms  from  working 
up  into  the  pot  and  providing  better  drainage  and  free 
access  of  air  to  the  roots.  The  pots  should  be  turned  occa- 
sionally to  prevent  the  plants  from  getting  one-sided  and 
to  break  off  any  roots  that  may  have  grown  down  into  the 
soil. 

New  Plants  from  Seeds  and  Cuttings 

Plants  from  seeds  or  from  cuttings  started  now  will  be 
large  enough  for  three  or  four  inch  pots  and  will  be  in  prime 
condition  by  winter.  To  start  the  seeds,  prepare  a  small 
bed  either  in  a  partly  shaded  place  or  where  a  temporary 
screen  of  some  sort  may  be  made.  Water  copiously  before 
planting,  and  cover  the  seeds  lightly.  As  soon  as  the  seeds 
are  well  up  and  in  the  third  or  fourth  leaf  transplant  to  flats 
or  small,  individual  pots. 

The  soil  for  the  pots  must  be  so  rich  as  to  carry  several 
months'  food  supply  in  a  very  limited  space,  porous  enough 


AUGUST:  FIRST  WEEK  197 

so  that  water  will  drain  through  it  readily,  and  well  sup- 
plied with  lime  so  it  will  not  sour.  Make  a  compost  of  about 
equal  parts  of  friable  garden  loam  or  sod  shavings  and 
thoroughly  decomposed  manure.  Old  manure  from  the 
hot-beds,  or  emptyings  from  flats,  is  best.  If  the  soil  is  very 
heavy,  mix  with  it  a  little  sand.  A  good  dressing  of  wood 
ashes,  which  contain  enough  lime  to  keep  the  mixture  thor- 
oughly sweet,  should  be  added,  and  also  some  bone  dust. 
Two  or  three  quarts  of  wood  ashes  and  a  pint  or  so  of  ground 
bone  may  be  added  to  each  bushel  of  the  compost.  This 
soil  should  be  kept  in  a  shed  or  in  a  barrel  and  soaked  occa- 
sionally to  keep  it  at  an  even  degree  of  moisture. 

Cuttings  may  be  rooted  readily  at  this  time  of  the  year, 
but  care  must  be  taken  that  they  do  not  dry  out.  A  con- 
venient method  is  to  mix  half  a  bushel  or  a  bushel  of  sand  in 
a  few  square  feet  of  the  seed  bed  and  to  place  the  cuttings 
in  this,  keeping  them  shaded  lightly  overhead  all  the  time, 
but  with  a  free  access  for  air.  Trim  the  cuttings  back  well, 
as  loss  of  water  through  transpiration  is  very  great  at  this 
time  of  the  year. 

In  starting  a  few  dozen  plants  the  saucer  system  is  the 
most  convenient:  Take  a  shallow,  water-tight  dish  and  put 
in  three  inches  of  clean  sand.  Add  water  until  it  comes 
barely  to  the  surface  of  the  sand.  Insert  the  cuttings  in  this. 
The  sand  must  be  kept  thoroughly  saturated,  which  will 
mean  adding  water  every  day  in  hot  or  windy  weather. 

Making  New  Rubber  Plants 

Rubber  plants  that  have  become  too  tall  or  have  become 
leafless  at  the  bottoms  of  the  stalks  may  be  made  over  by 
what  is  termed  Chinese  layering,  or  rooting  in  the  air: 
Select  a  point  in  the  stem  several  inches  below  the  lowest 
leaves,  or  wherever  the  remaining  upper  portion  of  the  stalk 
will  make  a  shapely  plant,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  make  a 
slanting  cut  two-thirds  through.  Place  in  this  cut  a  little 
live  sphagnum  moss,  which  can  be  gathered  in  most  swampy 
places,  or  obtained  from  any  local  florist.  Bind  on  with  soft 


198      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

twine  or  cloth  strips  a  small  piece  of  shingle  or  something 
similar,  to  hold  the  stem  in  its  original  position;  otherwise 
it  is  likely  to  get  knocked  or  blown  over. 

After  a  few  days  take  out  the  moss,  wash  the  wound  care- 
fully to  remove  as  much  as  possible  of  the  congealed  milky 
sap,  insert  fresh  moss,  and  then  tie  about  it,  extending 
several  inches  above  and  below,  a  ball  of  moss  which  will  be 
several  inches  in  diameter  when  finished.  Old  strips  of 
sheeting  an  inch  and  a  half  in  width  are  convenient  for  this 
purpose.  This  ball  should  be  kept  moist  at  all  times,  but 
do  not  use  very  cold  water. 

New  roots  will  have  formed  in  a  few  weeks.  Then  the 
moss  should  be  carefully  removed  enough  to  finish  the  cut. 
Pot  up  the  plant,  using  soil  that  is  thoroughly  moist  but  not 
wet.  Keep  in  the  shade  and  syringe  daily  for  a  few  days, 
but  do  not  water  the  soil  again  until  it  begins  to  get  dry. 

Another  method  is  to  saw  a  pot  in  two  lengthwise,  put 
some  soil  in  it  and  clamp  the  two  halves  over  the  moss 
round  the  wound,  letting  roots  go  through  into  the  soil  so 
that  the  new  plant  is  well  established  in  the  pot  before  the 
stem  is  completely  severed.  The  old  stem  should  be  cut 
back  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  ground,  which  will  in- 
duce it  to  throw  out  side  branches  to  form  a  spreading, 
bush-shaped  plant,  or  material  for  new  plants. 

Mid-summer  Potting 

The  work  of  potting  may  be  greatly  facilitated  by  having 
a  low  bench  or  table  in  a  shady  place.  This  bench  should 
be  three  feet  wide,  waist  high  and  long  enough  to  accommo- 
date several  flats  on  each  end,  the  middle  being  occupied  by 
soil  for  potting,  pots,  and  so  forth.  New  pots  should  be 
soaked  for  half  a  day  or  so  before  using.  Old  pots  should  be 
thoroughly  cleansed;  let  them  soak  for  a  day,  then  scrub 
with  a  cheap  bristle  brush  and  a  supply  of  clean,  gritty 
sand. 

House  plants  that  have  been  kept  for  a  number  of  years 
may  be  given  a  new  lease  of  life  by  taking  them  out  of  the 


AUGUST:  FIRST  WEEK  199 

pots,  carefully  soaking  all  the  soil  from  about  the  roots,  and 
repotting  in  fresh,  new  soil  in  pots  of  the  same  size.  They 
should  be  quite  severely  cut  back  at  the  same  time. 

Overwatering  at  the  time  of  transplanting,  even  in  hot 
weather,  should  be  avoided.  Until  the  new  root  system  is 
well  established  the  amount  of  water  that  the  plant  can  take 
up  is  greatly  limited.  Sprinkling  the  tops,  on  the  other 
hand,  reduces  the  tax  put  upon  the  roots  during  this  time. 

Frequent  syringing  with  clear,  cold  water,  using  as  much 
force  as  possible,  is  one  of  the  most  important  points  in 
keeping  the  plants  in  a  fresh,  healthy,  disease  and  insect 
free  condition  during  the  summer.  Sharp  watch  should  be 
kept  for  insect  enemies,  and  tobacco  dust  or  kerosene  emul- 
sion used  at  the  first  appearance. 


August :  Second  Week 

MAKING  A  NEW  LAWN;  REMAKING  AN  OLD  ONE; 
PEONIES  TO  PLANT  NOW 

The  lawn  is  the  most  conspicuous  and  permanent  feature 
of  the  place.  To  avoid  future  trouble  and  expense,  it  should 
be  well  made  at  the  beginning.  Where  the  summers  are  hot 
and  dry  the  best  time  to  make  new  lawns  or  to  remake  old 
ones  is  in  August  or  September,  so  that  the  newly  started 
grass  will  have  the  benefit  of  fall  rains,  and  yet  have  time 
to  become  well  established  before  winter.  When  spring- 
sown  lawns  have  not  been  wholly  successful  they  should 
be  tuned  up  early  in  the  autumn,  so  they  will  go  into  winter 
in  good  condition. 

In  making  a  new  lawn  both  the  particular  conditions  that 
exist  in  each  case,  and  the  probable  expense,  should  be  care- 
fully considered.  Any  set  of  directions  followed  blindly 
may  get  one  into  serious  trouble,  for  varieties  of  grass  and 
methods  of  soil  preparation  that  are  all  right  for  one  place 
or  climate  may  be  all  wrong  for  others.  Immediate  results 
are  often  possible  only  at  considerable  cash  outlay,  espe- 
cially if  the  lawn  is  large.  A  gradual  method  of  lawn  build- 
ing, giving  satisfactory  results  in  the  end,  would  mean  a 
very  considerable  saving. 

Take,  as  an  illustration,  the  grounds  about  a  newly  built 
house:  The  soil,  though  probably  fairly  good  in  latent  pos- 
sibilities, has  become  run  down,  is  without  humus,  and  is 
covered  with  heaps  of  raw  soil  thrown  out  from  the  cellar 
excavation.  If  you  could  give  the  landscape  gardener  free 
hand  he  would  have  all  this  poor  soil  removed,  together  with 
six  inches  of  unsuitable  topsoil  and  subsoil,  and  fill  in  with 
ashes  or  gravelly  soil  for  drainage,  and  good  loam.  When 
he  was  through  he  would  have  the  foundation  for  a  fine 

200 


AUGUST:  SECOND  WEEK  201 

lawn,  but  his  bill — even  loam  and  gravel  count  up  when  you 
buy  them  by  the  cubic  yard — would  be  apt  to  cause  some 
hesitation  on  the  part  of  the  average  man. 

Fortunately  another  course  is  possible.  Poor  drainage, 
due  to  a  hard  subsoil,  may  be  improved  with  dynamite  at 
very  little  expense.  Half-stick  charges,  placed  in  holes  ten 
to  twenty  feet  apart  each  way,  will  open  up  the  whole  sub- 
structure of  the  soil.  The  poorest  part  of  the  excavated  soil 
should  be  carted  away  or  used  for  filling  in  depressions.  The 
rest  should  be  spread  about,  and  plowed  under  as  deeply 
as  the  topsoil  will  permit.  A  good  coat  of  rotted  manure 
should  be  harrowed  in,  and  unless  this  has  been  put  on  two 
or  three  inches  thick  a  dressing  of  high-grade  fertilizer 
should  be  added. 

Start  with  a  Good  Soil 

If  the  soil  is  very  poor,  or  if  manure  cannot  be  obtained, 
it  will  be  better  not  to  attempt  to  seed  to  grass  at  once,  but 
to  improve  the  soil  first.  This  does  not  necessitate  untidy 
appearance.  Sown  to  rye  and  vetch,  or  to  crimson  clover, 
the  place  will  be  green  all  fall  and  early  next  spring.  This 
crop  may  be  plowed  under  in  April  or  May,  and  the  lawn 
made  then;  or  a  summer  green  crop  may  be  grown,  such  as 
millet  or  oats,  to  be  turned  under  in  August  or  September. 
By  this  method  even  very  poor  soil  can  be  put  into  good 
condition,  with  only  one  season's  delay  and  at  a  saving  of 
some  hundreds  of  dollars  for  each  acre  of  lawn. 

Different  types  of  soil  require  different  treatment.  The 
three  types  usually  encountered  are  sandy  or  gravelly  loam, 
loam,  or  clay.  The  sandy  loam  needs  humus,  which  may 
be  supplied  by  turning  under  green  crops;  or  prepared 
humus  may  be  bought  by  the  ton.  Heavy  rolling  to  com- 
pact the  soil  after  plowing  and  harrowing  is  desirable. 

With  a  naturally  good  loam  success  is  easy,  provided  the 
drainage  is  all  right.  The  subsoil  should  be  examined,  and 
if  necessary  dynamited  or  tile  drained.  When  the  lay  of 
the  land  is  such  that  good  natural  drainage  exists  below 


202      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

a  layer  of  impervious  subsoil,  a  moderate  dynamiting 
will  do. 

The  drainage  of  a  clay  soil  should  be  attended  to  first. 
The  topsoil  may  be  improved  and  lightened  by  the  liberal 
use  of  lime  and  manure.  Coal  ashes  or  sand,  if  available  at 
a  reasonable  price,  may  be  incorporated  by  shallow  plowing 
or  forking.  Heavy  rolling  should  be  avoided. 

All  these  methods  are  in  the  nature  of  preliminary  work, 
affecting  mostly  the  physical  condition  of  the  soil.  It  may 
seem  like  unnecessary  trouble  to  remake  your  soil  before  you 
begin  making  your  lawn,  but  as  a  matter  of  fact  it  is  saving 
trouble  for  future  years.  Anything  that  will  tend  to  insure 
permanent  success  from  your  first  sowing  will  be  worth 
while. 

Preparing  the  Soil  for  Planting 

Fertilizing  is  another  problem,  and  a  double-barreled  one. 
It  is  desirable  to  give  the  young  grass  strong,  quick  growth, 
and  also  to  incorporate  in  the  soil  a  supply  of  plant  food  that 
will  last  for  years.  For  the  latter  result  a  supply  of  high- 
grade  complete  fertilizer  should  be  added  to  the  soil  when 
it  is  being  harrowed  or  raked.  The  quick-acting  plant  food 
should  be  incorporated  with  the  compost  or  top-dressing 
used  upon  the  surface,  to  be  immediately  available  for  the 
sprouting  seed. 

Almost  all  new  lawns  should  be  heavily  limed.  Even 
when  the  soil  is  not  more  acid  than  is  desirable,  the  physical 
effect  upon  either  sandy  or  clay  soils  is  worth  the  cost. 
Raw  ground  limestone  is  the  best  form  for  general  use. 
Wood  ashes  are  desirable,  but  when  a  large  lawn  is  to  be 
made  it  is  cheaper  to  buy  lime  and  potash  in  other  forms. 
In  buying  ready-mixed  fertilizer,  a  3-8-10  formula  will  be 
suitable.  The  low  percentage  of  nitrogen  is  made  up  for  by 
the  nitrogen  added  in  the  top-dressing  and  by  an  annual 
dressing  thereafter.  The  soil  should  be  thoroughly  pul- 
verized by  harrowing  and  raking. 

The  eventual  success  of  the  lawn  depends  to  such  a  great 
extent  upon  giving  the  grass  plants  a  quick,  strong  start  that 


AUGUST:  SECOND  WEEK  203 

it  will  always  pay  to  give  in  addition  to  this  dressing  of  fer- 
tilizer a  top-dressing  of  compost,  rich  in  available  nitrogen 
and  in  humus  that  will  help  to  maintain  an  adequate  supply 
of  moisture  near  the  surface.  A  compost  soil  such  as  is  used 
in  the  greenhouse  or  for  the  flower  beds,  with  the  addition  of 
two  quarts  of  pulverized  sheep  manure  to  the  bushel,  will  do. 

Otherwise,  a  quickly  prepared  compost  may  be  made  as 
follows:  Half  a  cubic  yard  of  good  garden  loam  or  topsoil; 
500  pounds  of  prepared  humus;  25  pounds  of  hydrated  lime; 
15  to  25  pounds  of  fine  ground  bone;  15  to  25  pounds  of  pul- 
verized sheep  manure.  These  should  be  thoroughly  mixed 
together  and  left  in  a  compact  pile  for  about  a  week;  when 
screened  the  material  will  be  ready  for  top-dressing.  If  the 
soil  where  the  lawn  is  to  be  made  is  wet  or  heavy,  substitute 
medium  coarse  sand  for  loam  in  the  compost.  This  amount 
of  compost  will  top-dress  a  lawn  about  forty  by  forty  feet. 

If  the  soil,  after  filling  in  and  preparing,  is  so  soft  and  loose 
that  the  foot  sinks  into  it,  it  should  be  rolled  before  being 
given  the  final  harrowing  or  raking  preparatory  to  sowing. 

Use  Plenty  of  Good  Seed 

Sowing  should  be  done  preferably  on  a  quiet  day,  as  it  is 
highly  important  to  get  an  even  distribution  of  seed.  When 
everything  is  ready,  however,  particularly  if  there  is  promise 
of  a  rain,  it  is  usually  better  not  to  wait.  Even  with  the 
wind  blowing,  the  seed  can  be  put  on  quite  evenly  if  the 
lawn  is  marked  off  into  sections.  A  quick  way  of  doing  this 
is  to  take  a  little  ground  limestone  or  land  plaster  in  an  old 
watering  can,  marking  out  sections.  To  make  doubly  sure, 
it  is  best  to  divide  the  seed  and  make  two  sowings,  the 
second  at  right  angles  to  the  first.  After  sowing,  rake  the 
seed  in  evenly  and  gently  with  an  iron  rake  and  give  a 
fairly  heavy  rolling.  See  illustration  Plate  21. 

The  greatest  possible  care  should  be  exercised  in  buying 
grass  seed.  For  a  large  lawn  it  will  usually  pay  to  make 
your  own  mixture.  For  the  average  lawn  the  most  satisfac- 
tory way  is  to  purchase  a  ready-made  mixture,  but  buy 


204      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

from  a  thoroughly  reliable  source.  The  quality  of  the  seed 
may  be  judged  to  a  large  extent  by  the  weight — average 
seed  weighs  from  thirteen  to  sixteen  pounds  a  bushel,  while 
really  first-class  seed  should  weigh  between  twenty  and 
twenty-four  pounds.  Be  sure,  however,  that  this  extra 
weight  is  not  due  to  an  excess  of  clover  seed. 

Use  plenty  of  seed.  One  of  the  most  general  mistakes  in 
lawn  making  is  trying  to  save  on  this  item.  An  abundance 
of  seed  means  not  only  quicker  results,  but  surer  results, 
and  a  lawn  of  much  finer  texture.  Though  as  little  as  three 
bushels  to  the  acre  is  often  sown,  eight  bushels  is  none  too 
much  for  immediate  and  certain  results.  The  condition  of 
the  soil,  the  quality  of  the  seed  and  the  weather  are  factors 
that  influence  the  amount  to  be  used.  As  an  acre  contains 
about  43,500  square  feet,  the  proportional  amounts  of  seed 
for  small  lawns  can  readily  be  figured. 

Watering  and  Cutting 

Provision  for  copious  watering  should  be  made.  An  or- 
dinary lawn  sprinkler  will  answer,  but  remember  that  if 
water  is  applied  at  all  it  should  be  in  sufficient  quantities  to 
wet  thoroughly  three  or  four  inches  of  soil.  Lighter  water- 
ings, which  are  so  frequently  given  to  "freshen  up"  the 
appearance  of  the  lawn,  are  injurious,  as  they  keep  the 
young  seedlings  rooting  near  the  surface,  where  they  are 
most  subject  to  injury  from  drought. 

Do  not  be  in  any  hurry  to  make  the  first  cutting.  Let  the 
grass  get  several  inches  high.  Then  do  not  cut  it  close. 
For  the  first  two  or  three  times  simply  cut  off  the  top,  and 
the  cuttings,  unless  heavy  enough  to  mat  down  the  grass, 
may  be  left  where  they  fall.  After  that  the  machine  may 
be  shut  down  closer,  but  the  lawn  should  never  be  shaved. 
Many  people  make  the  mistake  of  cutting  the  grass  too 
short.  This  exposes  the  roots  to  injury.  Do  not  cut  the 
new  lawn  late  in  the  fall;  leave  a  generous  grass  mulch  for 
winter  protection. 

Next  to  watering  and  regular  cutting,  rolling  is  the  most 


AUGUST:  SECOND  WEEK  205 

important  item  in  maintaining  a  good  lawn.  A  modern 
type  of  water-ballast  roller,  which  can  be  made  any  desired 
weight,  is  preferable. 

Renewing  an  Old  Lawn 

When  a  lawn  is  run  down  the  question  is  always  whether 
it  will  be  better  and  cheaper  to  renew  it  or  to  remake  it. 
If  the  trouble  is  neglect,  surface  remedies  may  be  sufficient; 
if  it  has  petered  out  in  spite  of  fairly  good  care,  the  trouble 
probably  lies  in  the  substructure,  and  only  remaking  it  will 
put  it  into  good  shape.  Doctoring  up  a  lawn  made  on  a 
poorly  built  foundation  is  merely  throwing  away  money 
and  work. 

When  the  lawn  is  bare  in  patches,  although  the  rest  of  it 
seems  to  be  in  fairly  good  condition,  fork  up  the  bad  spots, 
incorporating  fine,  well-rotted  manure,  or  compost,  and 
sow  thickly  with  a  mixture  suitable  to  your  climate  and 
conditions.  The  back  of  the  spade  can  be  used  instead  of 
the  roller  for  firming  down  remade  spots.  At  the  same 
time,  go  over  the  remainder  of  the  lawn,  after  cutting  it 
quite  close,  with  a  steel  rake  and  give  it  a  vigorous  combing, 
loosening  up  the  soil  about  the  roots.  Give  this  a  generous 
top-dressing  with  compost  to  which  seed  has  been  added. 
Then  give  a  thorough  watering. 

When  the  lawn  remains  ragged  looking  in  spite  of  care, 
with  apparently  a  good  condition  of  soil,  the  trouble  is 
usually  caused  by  weeds  or  undesirable  grasses.  In  some 
lawns,  particularly  in  the  Northern  States,  there  is  too  much 
clover,  sometimes  the  result  of  improperly  mixed  seed,  some- 
times from  volunteer  plants. 

Uneven  or  rough  lawns  can  usually  be  leveled  up  by  filling 
the  hollows  with  good  soil.  If  this  is  put  on  just  after  the 
grass  has  been  cut,  and  is  not  made  too  deep,  the  original 
grass  will  come  up  through  it;  otherwise  reseeding  will  be 
necessary.  Care  should  be  taken  to  put  this  soil  on  in  layers 
of  not  more  than  two  or  three  inches,  and  beat  each  succes- 
sive layer  down  firmly  with  the  spade. 

It  sometimes  happens,  particularly  in  rather  heavy  soils, 


206      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

that  lawns  that  have  been  regularly  treated  with  a  heavy 
roller  begin  to  suffer  from  what  is  called  "  surf  ace  cohesion." 
The  remedy  is  the  use  of  a  spiked  tamper  or  roller  which 
perforates  the  sod,  making  small  holes  every  few  inches. 
These  admit  air  and  moisture  and  the  plants  are  stimulated 
to  new  growth. 

Peonies  to  Plant  in  August 

A  first-class  collection  of  peonies  is  always  desirable  and 
yearly  becomes  more  attractive.  The  growing  of  this 
flower  is  easy,  provided  a  few  fundamental  points  are  at- 
tended to.  Any  soil  in  good  mechanical  condition  is  suit- 
able, though  the  plant  responds  well  to  a  little  extra  care 
and  nourishment.  It  is  not  advisable,  however,  to  use  fresh 
manure  in  too  close  contact  with  the  roots.  The  roots  re- 
quire dividing  at  intervals  when  they  may  have  become  so 
crowded  as  to  interfere  with  their  flowering.  At  all  times 
the  soil  must  be  kept  loose  and  free  from  weeds.  In  planting 
the  roots  make  sure  that  the  eyes  are  two  to  three  inches 
below  the  surface.  Even  if  small  roots  are  started,  full 
space  must  be  allowed  for  growth,  the  rows  being  three  or 
three  and  a  half  feet  apart,  the  plants  set  two  and  a  half  or 
three  feet  apart  in  the  rows. 

The  best  season  for  planting  is  the  end  of  August  or  early 
September,  though  peonies  may  be  planted  at  any  time 
from  mid-August  until  growth  is  too  far  advanced  in  the 
spring.  The  following  are  among  the  best  varieties: 
Couronne  d'Or,  pure  white;  Felix  Crousse,  rich  red;  Festiva 
Maxima,  white;  Duchess  de  Nemours,  white;  Edulis 
Superba,  rich  mauve  pink;  Monsieur  Jules  Elie,  light  lilac 
rose;  Madame  de  Verneville,  white  with  bluish  center;  Marie 
Lemoine,  pure  white  and  cream;  Grandiflora,  rose,  shaded 
white;  Baroness  Shroeder,  flesh  white;  Livingstone,  light 
lilac  rose;  Monsieur  Du  Pont,  pure  white,  center  splashed 
crimson;  Delicatissima,  pale  lilac  rose;  Venus,  light  hy- 
drangea pink;  Claire  Dubois,  clear  rich  violet  rose,  tipped 
silvery  white;  Delachei,  violet-crimson,  tipped  silver;  La 
Tulipe,  lilac  white;  Modiste  Guerin,  light  solferino  red. 


August:  Third  Week 

EVERGREENS  AND  SHRUBS  FOR  FALL  PLANT- 
ING: PLANNING  AN  ARTISTIC  PLANTING; 
VARIETIES  FOR  SPECIAL  PURPOSES 

First  on  the  list  for  fall  planting  in  point  of  time  come  the 
evergreens.  These  should  be  got  in  as  soon  after  the  middle 
of  August  as  possible,  unless  belated  July  weather  or  drought 
prevent.  They  include  the  broad-leaved  evergreens,  such 
as  rhododendrons,  Kalmia  or  mountain  laurel  and  box, 
as  well  as  the  conifers — pines,  hemlocks,  spruce,  cedars 
and  others. 

Although  the  broad-leaved  evergreens  are  perhaps  not 
essential  to  the  planting  of  a  small  place,  there  are  few 
grounds  so  small  that  at  least  a  few  of  the  conifers  cannot 
be  used  to  great  advantage.  Conifers  form  the  most  domi- 
nant and  permanent  feature  of  the  place,  and  for  that 
reason  one  should  be  certain  that  the  best  possible  situa- 
tions have  been  selected  before  they  are  put  in. 

As  a  rule  any  mass  planting  of  evergreens  should  be  kept 
well  to  the  north  or  west  of  the  house.  This  is  desirable 
where  their  services  are  required  as  a  windbreak  and  shelter; 
but,  aside  from  that,  if  planted  to  the  south,  the  shade 
they  will  give  after  several  years'  growth  is  pretty  sure  to 
be  too  dense,  and  thus  a  somewhat  gloomy  atmosphere 
is  created.  It  is  a  great  mistake,  however,  to  think  that  they 
must  be  planted  in  straight  rows  or  plots,  as  one  so  fre- 
quently sees  them.  An  artistic  grouping  will  require  no 
more  trees  and  will  prove  just  as  effective  for  any  practical 
purpose  as  a  stiff,  nursery-looking  row.  For  sure  results 
stick  to  the  common  sorts.  White  pine  will  grow  in  most 
soils  and  will  live  for  generations;  it  is  one  of  the  fastest 
growing  of  all  the  conifers.  American  Arbor  Vitae  is  ex- 
cellent for  both  row  and  mass  planting;  although  the  uni- 

207 


2oS       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

versally  used  California  Privet  has  of  late  replaced  it  for 
hedge  work,  it  is  still  the  best  thing  to  plant  for  a  tall,  stiff 
hedge.  For  single  specimens  Juniperus  Virginiana  is  one  of 
the  best  that  can  be  had  and  is  almost  as  artistic  in  effect 
as  the  famous  cypresses  of  Italy. 

The  Use  of  Shrubs 

The  one  object  in  using  shrubs  of  course  is  to  make  the 
place  beautiful;  but  there  are,  in  general,  three  ways  of 
using  them  toward  this  end.  As  a  background  for  lower 
growing  plants,  flower  beds,  or  lawns;  for  hedges,  boundary 
lines,  or  screens;  and  for  the  beauty  of  their  flowers  or 
foliage,  berries,  or  bark,  either  in  beds  or  as  individual 
specimens.  Of  course  these  three  uses  are  seldom  distinct 
and  separate — which  only  illustrates  further  the  many- 
sided  advantages  of  shrub  plantings. 

The  first  thing  to  do  in  selecting  shrubs  for  the  place 
is  to  determine  in  which  of  these  ways  we  wish  to  use  them, 
and  how  extensively;  and  the  best  way  to  get  an  accurate 
idea  of  our  wants  or  needs  (for  the  natural  "lay  of  the 
land"  and  other  existing  conditions  will  determine  to  a 
great  extent  the  shrubs  we  should  select)  is  to  go  over  the 
ground  carefully,  sketching  down  the  various  groups, 
hedges,  screens,  or  location  of  individual  specimens  we 
may  wish  to  place.  Then  put  these  all  down  in  proportion 
on  one  plan,  to  be  used  as  a  guide  and  kept  for  future  refer- 
ence. Of  course  the  whole  thing  need  not  be  carried  out 
at  once;  we  may  put  in  a  hedge  of  barberry  this  fall,  along 
the  front  of  the  place,  and  a  couple  of  hardy,  large-flowered 
hydrangeas  well  down  the  front  walk  to  give  a  semi-formal 
touch  to  the  approach.  But  that  rather  ugly  corner  back 
by  the  garage  may  have  to  wait  a  year  longer — being 
screened  temporarily  by  a  group  of  ricinus  (the  giant  castor- 
oil  plant),  or  even  by  homely  sunflowers. 

The  shrubs  suited  for  these  several  purposes  are  not 
divided  into  any  hard  and  fast  groups.  All  of  them  are 
available  for  more  than  one  of  the  purposes  mentioned 


AUGUST:  THIRD  WEEK  209 

and  several  are  adapted  to  any  purpose.    But  a  simple 
classification  is  of  considerable  help  in  making  selections. 

Shrubs  for  Single  Specimens 

Some  of  those  especially  suitable  for  single  specimens  on 
the  lawn  or  about  the  grounds  are  hardy  hydrangeas  (Hy- 
drangea paniculata,  var.  grandiflora  and  H.  arborescens, 
var.  grandiflora) ;  the  Mock  Orange  (Philadelphus) ;  Lilacs 
(Syringa),  of  which  there  are  many  fine  new  varieties 
not  yet  generally  known  but  as  easy  to  grow  as  the  old 
sorts;  the  beautiful  Japanese  maples,  with  foliage  of  many 
shades  of  color  and  striking  forms;  that  old,  early-flowering 
favorite  of  unequaled  fragrance,  the  Strawberry  shrub 
(Calycanthus  floridus);  Viburnum;  Smoke  tree  (Rhus 
cotinus) ;  White  Fringe  (Chionanthus  Virginica) ;  Buddleia, 
the  butterfly  shrub,  of  which  splendid  new  varieties  have 
recently  been  introduced;  Rose  of  Sharon  (Althea);  and 
the  universally  popular  but  quite  indispensable  Deutzias, 
Weigelas,  Forsythias  and  Spireas,  some  of  the  newer  varie- 
ties of  which,  though  one  seldom  hears  about  them,  are 
just  as  great  improvements  over  older  sorts  as  are  the  newer 
varieties  of  roses  and  annuals  that  are  brought  to  the  at- 
tention of  every  flower  lover. 

For  Beds  and  Borders 

Shrubs  for  use  in  mass  planting,  in  the  shrubbery  border, 
or  for  screen  plantings  along  the  boundary  lines,  may  be 
considered  in  high-growing  and  low-growing  groups.  In 
plantings  of  any  size  they  are  generally  used  together,  and 
in  disposing  them  the  tallest  things  should  always  be  kept 
at  the  back,  grading  down  to  the  lowest  at  the  front.  The 
shrubbery  border,  unlike  the  hardy  border  and  the  flower 
beds,  is  usually  made  with  an  irregular  or  wavy  outline  and 
varies  greatly  in  width,  so  that  alternate  recesses  or  bays 
and  projections  or  promontories  are  formed,  and  the  more 
or  natural  this  outline  can  be  made  the  more  pleas- 


210      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

ing  will  be  the  general  effect  of  the  planting.  Among  the 
taller  of  the  common  shrubs  are  rhododendron,  laurel 
(Kalmia),  Dogwood  (Cornus  florida),  Lilac,  Sumac  (Rhus), 
Golden  Elder  (Sambucus  nigra,  var.  aurea),  the  taller  Spi- 
reas  and  viburnums,  Forsythias,  and  Honeysuckle  (Loni- 
cerd). 

Low-growing  shrubs  which  can  be  relied  upon  are  spirea, 
Forsythia,  Deutzia  gracilis,  Deutzia  Lemoinei,  Berberis 
Thunbergii,  Spiraea  callosa,  Clethra  alnifolia,  Weigelia — 
low-growing  varieties — Calluna  vulgaris,  Andromeda  flori- 
bunda,  Berberis  aquifolium  and  Azalea  amcena. 

Shrubs  for  Hedges 

Those  especially  adapted  for  hedges  are  the  following: 
Barberry  (Berberis),  for  low,  informal  hedges;  California 
Privet,  for  semiformal  or  informal  hedges,  especially  in 
shady  places;  Japanese  Privet,  for  low-spreading  informal 
hedges;  Japanese  Quince  (Pyrus  Japonicus)  with  scarlet, 
showy  flowers;  and  Boxwood,  especially  useful  for  hedging 
in  the  flower  garden  and  for  neat  formal  hedges,  but  not 
so  hardy  as  the  foregoing. 

Replant  Peonies  this  Fall  for  Abundant  Bloom  Next  Year 

It  will  soon  be  time  to  reset  the  peonies.  Old  plants  are 
often  poor  bloomers.  The  plants  may  be  shy-blooming  by 
nature.  The  clumps  may  have  been  growing  from  ten  to 
twenty  years  in  the  same  place,  until  the  soil  has  become 
impoverished.  The  location  may  be  dry  in  the  blooming 
season,  so  the  peonies  have  not  received  proper  fertilization 
and  culture. 

Prepare  for  replanting  by  selecting  a  place  now  where  the 
soil  is  ordinarily  moist,  not  wet;  dig  holes  two  feet  deep 
and  three  feet  in  diameter;  save  the  richer  topsoil  and 
discard  the  poorer  bottom  soil;  place  well-rotted  manure, 
preferably  cow  or  sheep  manure  in  the  bottom  of  each  hole 
to  the  depth  of  six  inches  and  dig  in;  fill  the  holes  to  the 


AUGUST:  THIRD  WEEK  211 

top  with  a  mixture  of  two-thirds  soil  and  one-third  leaf 
mold,  thoroughly  well-rotted  manure  and  sand. 

In  early  September  take  up  the  clumps  of  peonies  and 
divide  them  in  such  a  way  as  to  leave  only  four  to  six  eyes, 
which  produce  next  year's  shoots,  on  the  top  of  each  division. 
Plant  these  divisions  in  the  prepared  places,  deep  enough  so 
that  the  crowns  will  be  only  three  inches  below  the  surface. 
Deep  planting  sometimes  causes  shy  blooming.  Cover  the 
surface  of  the  soil  thickly  with  coarse,  strawy  manure,  and 
leave  this  covering  on  till  early  next  spring.  Water  applied 
in  sufficient  quantity  to  reach  the  bottom  of  roots  once  or 
twice  each  week  in  late  April  or  May  increases  the  number 
of  blooms  in  a  dry  season  and  improves  their  quality. 

If  it  is  desired  to  plant  the  peonies  in  a  bed  the  whole  bed 
should  be  excavated  and  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as 
directed  for  making  the  holes,  and  the  peonies  should  be  set 
three  feet  apart  each  way.  Peonies  need  heavy  fertilizing 
each  year  with  stable  manure  or  bone  meal,  or  both,  and 
they  need  plenty  of  water  in  the  blooming  season  to  give 
the  best  results.  Peonies  thrive  well  in  a  partial  shade,  and 
in  such  a  location  the  blooms  retain  their  color  longer. 


August:  Fourth  Week 

PLANNING  AND   BUILDING  A   SMALL   GREEN- 
HOUSE: MATERIALS;  CONSTRUCTION;  HEATING 

A  mistaken  idea  as  to  the  cost  keeps  many  persons  from 
trying  to  put  up  even  a  small  house.  The  ready-made 
patent  framed  greenhouses  with  all  the  latest  devices  and 
niceties  of  construction,  are  worth  what  they  cost,  but  the 
man  who  cannot  afford  one  of  them  can  put  up  a  perfectly 
practical  house  at  a  figure  that  he  can  afford  if  he  buys  his 
own  material  and  does  his  own  work.  It  is  now  possible  to 
buy,  at  a  reasonable  price,  a  complete  small  house,  heating 
system  and  all,  that  comes  all  cut  and  ready  to  erect,  and 
can  be  put  up  in  a  few  days'  time.  A  small  greenhouse 
will  pay  as  good  dividends  as  the  frames  or  the  garden. 

If  building  is  begun  at  once  you  can  have  your  house  for 
use  this  fall  and  winter,  as  well  as  to  grow  next  spring's 
supply  of  plants. 

The  simplest  type  of  greenhouse  is  the  " lean-to."  It  is 
the  cheapest  and  easiest  to  put  up.  It  may  be  constructed 
against  the  south  wall  of  the  dwelling  or  some  other  building. 
Or  it  may  be  built  into  the  veranda.  It  is  often  possible 
to  heat  a  house  of  this  kind  with  the  same  heating  plant 
that  is  used  for  the  home. 


The  Construction  of  a  "Lean-to"  House 

As  the  wall  of  the  building  against  which  the  "lean-to  " 
is  to  be  built  forms  its  north  side,  we  have  to  supply  a  south 
wall,  the  two  ends,  and  the  roof.  Sometimes  the  south  wall 
has  a  row  of  glass,  which  is  desirable,  but  not  necessary. 

The  walls  may  be  made  of  either  concrete  or  post-and- 
board  construction.  Which  would  be  best  to  use  will  de- 
pend largely  upon  how  difficult  it  is  to  get  sand  and  gravel 

212 


AUGUST:  FOURTH  WEEK 


213 


in  your  locality.  Once  done,  however,  concrete  will  last 
practically  forever.  If  concrete  is  used  the  wall  should  be 
put  down  at  least  to  the  frost-line,  and  be  four  inches 
or  more  thick  above  ground.  Use  more  cement  in  propor- 
tion to  the  sand  and  gravel  than  for  ordinary  walls.  A 


Cross-section  of  10  x  20  lean-to  house. 

mixture  of  i  to  ij^  parts  cement,  2  of  sand,  and  4  of  gravel 
or  broken  stone  will  be  right.  For  the  post-and-board  con- 
struction posts  are  put  into  the  ground  every  four  or  five 
feet  apart,  and  the  wall  built  on  the  outside.  Cedar  is  the 
best  wood  to  use  for  the  posts,  but  chestnut  or  some  other 
local  sort  which  does  not  rot  quickly  will  answer  the  pur- 


214 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


pose.  The  corner  posts  must  be  square,  and  it  is  better 
to  have  the  others  so.  The  posts  are  carefully  " lined  up"; 
a  layer  of  boards,  preferably  tongued  and  grooved,  is  put 
on;  over  these  a  layer  or  double  layer  of  building  paper; 
another  layer  of  boards;  building  paper; 
and  then  shingles,  siding,  or  stone-sur- 
faced roofing. 

On  top  of  the  front  wall  is  placed  the 
"eave  plate"  or  sash  sill  which  forms  the 
support  for  the  lower  ends  of  the  sash 
bars  (the  long  narrow  bars  which  sup- 
port the  glass).  At  their  upper  ends  the 
sash  bars  are  held  in  place  in  the  "ridge." 
The  ridge,  in  the  case  of  a  lean-to  house, 
is  fastened  securely  to  the  wall  of  the 
house  against  which  the  greenhouse  is  be- 
ing built.  If  the  sash  bars  for  the  roof 
are  not  over  six  or  seven  feet  long  they 
will  be  strong  enough  to  support  the  glass 
without  any  bracing,  or  "purlines"  as 
they  are  called,  under  them.  For  sash 
bars  longer  than  that  some  support  is 
necessary,  and  the  strongest  and  most 
convenient  thing  to  use  is  pipe,  an  inch 
in  diameter  being  amply  strong  for  a  small 
house.  Secondhand  pipe  is  perfectly  good 
for  the  purpose.  At  the  ridge  or  peak  of 
the  house  there  should  be  one  or  more 
hinged  ventilators  to  provide  for  cooling 
the  house  on  bright  hot  days.  At  each 
end  of  the  house,  in  place  of  the  sash  bar,  an  "end  bar"  or 
gable-rafter  is  used.  This  has  the  shoulder  for  the  glass  on 
one  side  only,  and  is  grooved  out  on  the  other  so  that  the 
glass  in  the  end  or  "gable"  of  the  house  can  fit  into  it, 
making  a  tight,  secure  joint.  The  forms  of  the  various  kinds 
of  pieces  or  members  used  may  be  seen  from  the  cross- 
sections  in  any  greenhouse  material  catalogue. 


Detail  of  side-wall 
construction. 


AUGUST:  FOURTH  WEEK 


215 


Material  Required  for  a  20  x  10  Lean-to  House 

Let  us  figure  out  just  what  is  needed  for  a  lean-to  house, 
twenty  feet  long  and  approximately  ten  wide.  Suppose 
we  can  get  7  feet  of  headroom  on  the  wall  against  which 
we  wish  to  build.  Then  we  can  figure  on  a  height  of  four 
feet  for  the  front  wall,  which  will  require  6-foot  posts,  as 
they  should  be  set  at  least  two  feet  into  the  soil.  For  the 
front  wall  then  we  will  require  five  6-foot  posts;  double 
boarding  enough  to  go  from  a  foot  below  the  surface  to  2j^ 
feet  up  the  posts  (twice  3^  feet  x  20  feet),  or  140  feet; 


22" 

WALK 

^^         yy 

3 

BENCH 

2O" 

WALK 

] 

yz' 

i               • 

BENCH 

•                             m 

Ground  plan  of  10  x  20  lean-to  house. 

20  feet  each  of  2  x  4"  eave-plate  and  2  x  6"  sill;  and  ten  lights 
of  1 6  x  24"  double- thick  glass.  For  the  ends  there  will  be 
required  4  g-foot  posts;  approximately  the  same  amount 
of  boarding  as  for  the  front  wall;  20  feet  of  2  x  4"  sill;  50 
feet  of  "  side  bars"  (to  hold  the  glass) ;  and  60  square  feet  of 
glass.  It  is  usually  possible  to  pick  up  a  secondhand  door 
of  some  local  contractor,  at  a  very  low  price;  or  one  may 
readily  be  constructed  of  boards  and  roofing  paper  or  shin- 
gles. 

For  the  roof  there  will  be  required  20  feet  of  ridge,  13 
lo-foot  sash  bars,  2  lo-foot  end  bars;  and  3  ventilating 
sash.  A  little  may  be  saved  on  the  ridge  by  having  it  sawed 
in  two  vertically,  as  it  will  support  the  sash  bars  just  as  well 
and  fit  more  snugly  against  the  side  of  the  house.  Get 
the  style  of  sash  bars  known  as  "drip"  bars — which  means 
that  they  do  not  drip!  If  you  get  the  ventilating  sash  made 
the  right  size  you  can  easily  put  the  glass  in  yourself. 


216      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Each  sash  will  require  a  "header,"  or  cross  piece  between 
the  sashes,  where  its  lower  edge  rests. 

To  support  the  middle  of  the  sash  bars  a  wooden  rafter 
and  wood  posts  may  be  used,  but  a  much  more  convenient 
and  lasting  support  may  be  had  by  getting  20  feet  of  i- 
inch  pipe — secondhand  will  do — and  two  i  J^-inch  pipe  posts 
six  feet  long.  If  two  additional  pipe  posts  are  secured  and 
placed  near  the  ends  of  the  house  they  will  both  strengthen 
the  construction  and  help  make  a  neat,  strong  support  for 
the  middle  bench,  to  be  put  in  later. 

Itemizing  these  things,  and  including  the  glass  for  roof 
and  the  fittings,  etc.,  which  will  be  required,  we  have  the 
following  list  of  materials.  The  cost  will  vary.  I  have 
built  a  house  at  the  figures  given  here,  but  they  are  low, 
and  I  was  able  to  get  some  material  secondhand. 

300  feet  of  inch  boards,  for  walls $9 .  oo 

9  posts  (5  6-foot;  4  9-foot  long) 3 .  oo 

1,000  shingles,  for  walls 4 . 50 

6  boxes  24  x  i6-in.  double  thick  glass,  $18  to 24.00 

10  feet  2  x  4-in.  ridge 80 

13  lo^-foot  drip  bars,  for  roof 3.25 

2  io>£-foot  end  bars,  for  roof 75 

50  foot  side  bars,  random  lengths,  for  gables 2 . 50 

20  feet  2  x  4-inch  eaves  plate i .  60 

20  feet  2  x  6-in.  sill 2 . 20 

20  feet  2  x  4-in.  sill,  for  gables i .  60 

20  feet  i-inch  iron  pipe,  secondhand i  .00 

4  6-foot  ij^-inch  pipe  posts i .  50 

4  i^x  i-inch  split-T's .50 

15  pipe-straps,  to  fasten  purlin  to  bars 25 

2  gable  end-fittings  for  purlin 20 

3  ventilating  sash,  for  3  lights,  glass 3 .  oo 

3  continuous  headers  for  same .50 

6  hinges,  with  screws,  for  ventilators 75 

i  roll  building  paper 2 .  oo 

75  Ibs.  putty,  greenhouse . 3 .  oo 

Hardware,  paint,  and  miscellaneous 5 .  oo  to  10 .  oo 

The  posts,  boards,  shingles,  and  the  building  paper  may 
be  had  at  a  local  dealer's.  The  other  things  should  be  or- 
dered from  a  regular  greenhouse  material  company. 


AUGUST:  FOURTH  WEEK 


217 


i 


A  Larger  House 

If  you  happen  to  live  in  a  section  where  many  of  your 
friends  and  neighbors  have  gardens,  it  will  probably  repay 
you  well  to  put  up  a  larger  house  and  grow  extra  plants  to 
sell  in  the  spring.  For  a  small  practical  house  of  this  sort, 
two  good  forms  of  construction  are  shown  in  the  accompany- 
ing cuts.  The  details  of  construction  are  much  the  same  as 
those  shown  for  the  former  house  already  described.  Special 
fittings  are  made  to  use  in  connection  with  the  pipe  posts, 
frame,  and  sup- 
ports, and  there 
is  no  reason  why 
one  ordinarily 
skillful  with 
tools  cannot  do 
the  biggest  part 
of  the  work  of 
building  a  small 
house  himself. 
In  many  parts 
of  the  house  iron  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  wooden  parts  I 
have  described.  The  cost  is  more,  but  repairs  are  eliminated. 
Before  building  a  house  of  any  size,  you  should  get  cata- 
logues from  some  of  the  greenhouse  companies  and  make 
yourself  familiar  with  the  different  methods  of  construction. 

No  matter  how  small  your  house  is,  however,  plan  it 
carefully  in  every  detail  before  ordering  the  material.  The 
plan  and  list  of  material  above  should  not  be  used  unless  it 
fits  in  with  your  particular  requirements. 


21'- 


Beginning  Work  on  the  Greenhouse 

As  you  may  buy  the  posts,  boarding,  shingles,  etc.,  lo- 
cally, you  can  get  the  work  well  under  way  without  waiting 
for  the  other  materials  to  arrive.  Level  off  the  site  you  have 
selected,  and  make  your  measurements  carefully.  To  get 
the  plan  square,  be  sure  that  the  diagonals,  from  opposite 


2i8      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

corners,  are  of  exactly  the  same  length.  Mark  the  lines 
for  the  outsides  and  ends  plainly  by  stretching  stout  cord 
or  a  garden  line  to  stakes  set  a  couple  of  feet  beyond  where 
each  corner  is  to  be,  so  that  the  points  where  the  strings  cross 
will  indicate  the  exact  point  where  it  is  desired  to  have  the 
outside  corners  of  the  greenhouse.  All  the  posts  should  be 
set  in  very  firmly;  the  best  way  is  to  pour  concrete  around 
the  bases.  Set  the  two  corner  posts  first  and  line  up  the 
rest  carefully  with  these.  The  best  way  is  to  have  the  posts 
a  little  longer  than  needed,  and  saw  them  off  level  after 
they  are  set. 

The  2x4  inch  eave  plate  can  go  into  place  next.  And 
then,  leaving  just  enough  room  for  a  light  of  glass  to  go 
in  the  1 6-inch  way,  fit  the  2  x  6  inch  sill  16  inches  below 
this,  mortising  it  out  carefully  to  fit  snugly  about  the 
posts.  The  bevel  or  shoulder  in  the  sill  should  come  just 
even  with  the  outside  of  the  posts,  so  that  the  latter  will 
not  be  in  the  way  of  the  glass,  which  may  be  put  in,  with- 
out any  side  bars,  in  a  continuous  row. 

The  walls  may  then  be  constructed  fitting  the  boards 
snugly  under  the  2  x  6-inch  sill,  and  working  down  toward 
the  ground.  Put  the  ridge  in  place,  being  sure  that  it  is 
very  secure  and  makes  a  water-tight  joint  with  the  side  of 
the  house.  (If  this  cannot  be  secured  by  the  use  of  white 
lead,  use  a  strip  of  roofer's  tin.)  Then  mark  off  carefully  on 
both  ridge  and  eave  the  places  for  the  sash  bars.  Then  start 
with  one  end  bar,  and  nail  the  bars  into  place,  using  finishing 
nails.  Try  every  third  or  fourth  bar  with  a  light  of  glass  to 
be  certain  that  you  are  getting  them  spaced  exactly  right. 
The  purlin,  or  pipe,  which  supports  the  sash  bars  does  not 
have  to  be  directly  on  the  middle.  In  this  lean-to,  for  in- 
stance, it  comes  a  little  to  one  side.  Ascertain  carefully, 
however,  just  where  it  is  to  come,  and  mark  the  bars  on  the 
bottom  side  with  a  chalk-line.  Then,  with  the  purlin  clips, 
fasten  the  purlin  into  place.  Put  the  pipe  post  supports  in 
place,  being  careful  to  get  them  perpendicular  and  in  line, 
and  set  the  bottoms  in  concrete.  Do  not  touch  the  posts 
while  the  concrete  is  setting,  which  will  take  two  or  three 


AUGUST:  FOURTH  WEEK  219 

days,  during  which  time  the  doors  and  gable  bars  may  be 
put  in  place.    All  will  then  be  ready  for  the  glass. 

How  to  Lay  the  Glass 

Put  the  ventilators  on  first.  In  putting  in  the  glass  you 
will  notice  that  each  light  is  slightly  curved.  Put  the  convex 
side  up.  Put  in  one  complete  row  at  a  time,  beginning  at  the 
eaveplate,  and  letting  the  glass  come  down  just  flush  with 
the  outer  bevel.  ' '  Work  up  "  a  generous  supply  of  putty  un- 
til it  is  very  soft  and  elastic.  (If  necessary  add  a  little 
linseed  oil.)  Put  on  the  putty  so  thick  that  the  glass  can  be 
firmly  imbedded  in  it,  by  pressing  down  hard  along  each 
edge  of  the  glass.  The  lights  should  be  lapped  slightly — 
Ve  to  ^  of  an  inch — and  held  firmly  in  place  by  greenhouse 
glazing  points.  There  are  several  types  of  these,  but  I  like 
best  the  style  known  as  Siebert's.  After  a  complete  row 
of  glass  is  put  in,  scrape  off  the  surplus  putty  on  the  under 
side.  Go  over  the  outside  edges  of  the  glass  with  linseed 
oil  and  white  lead,  mixed  to  the  consistency  of  thick  paint. 

One  of  the  secrets  in  building  a  house  that  will  last  is  to 
have  the  painting  done  thoroughly,  and  all  crevices  and 
holes  filled  with  paint  or  white  lead,  and  all  joints  white 
leaded.  Go  over  the  whole  frame  carefully  after  it  is  put 
up,  before  putting  in  any  glass;  and  again  after  the  glass  is 
put  in.  Be  sure  to  buy  a  good  paint.  If  you  do  not  know 
about  it,  write  to  your  State  Experiment  Station  for  in- 
formation. 

In  the  estimate  for  material  I  have  not  included  benching. 
Two  by  four  scantlings  and  second-hand  or  second-grade 
boards  may  be  used;  but  as  a  general  rule,  the  cheaper  the 
bench  put  up  the  sooner  it  will  have  to  be  repaired.  For  a 
house  like  the  lean-to  described,  if  you  can't  afford  a  tile 
or  slate  bottom  bench,  I  would  recommend  concrete  for 
the  bottom  and  sides  of  the -walk,  and  iron  pipe  posts 
and  cross-pieces  for  the  benches.  Split-fittings,  especially 
designed  for  making  bench-frames,  may  be  bought  quite 


220      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

cheaply,  and  with  them  such  a  frame  may  easily  be  put  up. 
Then  boards  are  used  for  the  bottom  of  the  bench,  and  may 
readily  be  replaced. 

Heating  the  Greenhouse 

If  hot  water  or  steam  is  used  in  the  dwelling  house,  the 
heating  of  the  small  greenhouse  is  an  easy  matter.  Where  a 
hot-air  system  is  used  for  the  house,  a  small  hot-water  coil 
may  be  placed  in  fee  top  of  the  fire-box,  and  connected  with 
tj^g  heating  pipes  in  the  greenhouse.  Two  "coils"  of  pipe 
of  five  i -inch  returns  each,  fed  by  two  i^-inch  flows,  would 
heat  a  lean-to,  like  that  described,  with  hot  water.  The 
boiler  should  be  placed  as  much  lower  than  the  piping  as  is 
practical — an  advantage  already  at  hand  when  the  green- 
house is  heated  from  the  house  cellar.  For  the  detached 
small  greenhouse  it  is  usually  possible,  if  one  will  look  around 
a  bit,  to  pick  up  a  small  secondhand  hot-water  heater,  and 
secondhand  pipe,  which,  while  not  as  neat  and  trim  as  new 
material  would  be,  will  give  satisfaction  as  far  as  supplying 
heat  is  concerned.  The  heating  system  should  be  installed 
under  the  direction  of  some  competent  person.  A  small 
house,  especially  if  it  is  to  be  used  only  for  starting  plants 
in  the  spring,  may  be  heated  by  a  flue,  although  this  method 
is  not  so  reliable  as  hot  water.  In  case  a  flue  is  used,  the 
chimney  should  be  built  on  top  of  the  furnace.  The  flue 
should  then  be  carried  to  the  other  end  of  the  house,  or 
near  it,  and  back  to  the  chimney.  This  provides  a  forced 
draft,  as  the  air  in  the  chimney  is  heated  as  soon  as  the  fire 
is  started,  and  sucks  the  hot  air  from  the  fire-box  around 
through  the  flue  after  it.  If  a  flue  is  used,  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  have  any  woodwork  come  in  direct  contact. 


September:  First  Week 

LATE  WORK  IN  THE  VEGETABLE  GARDBN:  LAST 
PLANTINGS;  GETTING  READY  FOR  THE 
FIRST  FROSTS;  PREPARING  FOR  WINTER 
WORK  UNDER  GLASS 

The  first  rule  for  the  home  gardener  at  this  time  of  the 
year  is  to  let  not  a  single  weed  go  to  seed.  Do  not  let  the 
weeds  even  form  seed  pods,  because  many  of  these  will 
ripen  and  shell  out  if  they  are  cut  when  green.  Go  over 
the  grounds  from  one  border  line  to  the  other;  even  in 
gardens  that  are  kept  clean,  weeds  at  the  ends  of  the  rows, 
along  the  fences,  or  in  plots  that  have  gone  by,  often  are 
left  to  be  cut  and  burned  in  the  fall — too  late  to  prevent 
their  sowing  trouble  for  next  year. 

One  reason,  perhaps,  why  stray  weeds  are  left  is  that 
among  the  usual  garden  tools  there  is  none  especially 
adapted  to  their  removal.  Weeds  should  be  cut  below 
the  surface,  to  prevent  their  sprouting  again.  The  hook- 
bladed  knife  used  for  thinning  cane-fruits  is  ideal  for  this 
purpose.  If  one  of  these  is  not  available,  however,  a  tool  for 
this  purpose  may  easily  be  made  from  a  piece  of  hoe  blade 
or  a  mowing-machine  knife  blade.  Cut  the  piece  of  hoe 
blade  three  inches  or  so  wide,  heat  it  and  hammer  it  out 
straight  at  the  shank;  attach  this  to  a  stout  handle  four 
or  five  feet  long  in  such  a  way  that  it  can  be  used  with  a 
straight  thrust.  The  mowing-machine  knife  blade  may  be 
fastened  to  a  handle  in  the  same  way,  or  in  such  position 
that  the  cutting  edge  is  uppermost,  so  it  will  cut  with  a 
pull.  With  either  of  these  implements  the  removal  of  large 
weeds  is  not  hard  work.  You  do  not  need  to  stoop  over, 
and  no  vegetables  or  flowers  need  be  uprooted  in  the  process. 

All  the  refuse  of  vegetable  crops  such  as  peas,  beans, 
early  cucumbers,  cabbage  stumps,  and  so  forth,  should  be 

221 


222       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

removed,  put  in  a  pile  and  burned  clean  as  soon  as  it  is  dry. 
This  may  seem  like  a  waste  of  vegetable  matter  that  could 
have  been  added  to  the  compost  heap,  but  the  eggs,  cocoons 
and  pupae  of  various  insects,  hibernating  adults,  and  the 
germs  of  various  blights  and  fungous  diseases  are  carried 
over  and  protected  in  material  of  this  kind,  to  be  on  hand 
to  make  trouble  next  season.  Thorough  cleanliness  is  es- 
sential in  fighting  insects  and  diseases. 

Fall  Sowing  for  Spring  Crops 

The  only  sowing  that  may  be  done  at  this  time  of  the 
year  in  the  Northern  States  is  a  last  planting  of  radishes. 
In  states  a  little  farther  south,  where  killing  frost  need  not 
be  expected  until  late  in  October,  there  may  be  last  sowings 
of  early  varieties  of  peas,  spinach,  beets  and  lettuce.  Prep- 
aration should  also  be  made  now  for  onions  and  spinach 
to  be  wintered  over.  Onions  should  be  sown  considerably 
thicker  than  in  spring,  as  some  may  be  winter-killed.  One 
of  the  early  Globe  varieties,  such  as  Yellow  Strasburg  or 
Danvers,  should  be  selected,  as  these  make  thick  stands 
and  are  ready  for  eating  earlier  than  the  flat  sorts.  Al- 
though seed  onions  that  have  a  good  start  and  are  pro- 
tected by  a  winter  mulch  will  stand  very  severe  weather, 
the  Egyptian  or  Perennial  Tree  onions  are  still  hardier 
and  are  sure  to  prove  successful  with  the  amateur.  They 
come  in  clusters  of  miniature  onions — the  heads  that  form 
at  the  tops  of  the  seed  stalks  instead  of  seeds  on  this  va- 
riety— which  should  be  separated  and  planted  in  the  same 
way  as  sets.  They  should  be  pushed  deep  into  the  soil,  as 
the  more  the  stalks  are  blanched  the  better  they  are  for 
eating  green. 

A  number  of  other  vegetables  may  be  sown  late  in  the 
fall  for  extra  early  results  next  spring,  but  these  should  be 
put  in  so  late  that  they  will  not  sprout  this  fall.  Radishes, 
lettuce,  spinach,  carrots,  smooth  peas,  turnips  and  cabbage 
will  usually  come  through  all  right  and  start  up  in  spring 
earlier  than  any  that  could  be  planted  then.  The  ground 


SEPTEMBER:  FIRST  WEEK  223 

may  be  prepared  at  any  time,  but  the  seeds  should  not  be 
put  in  until  just  before  you  have  reason  to  expect  things 
to  freeze  up  for  the  winter.  Only  a  few  cents'  worth  of 
seed  will  be  required,  and  if  you  have  to  replant  in  the 
spring  little  is  lost. 

Late  Spraying  and  Cultivating 

Routine  work  among  the  late  fall  crops  should  not  be 
neglected  because  the  season  is  drawing  to  a  close.  Any 
that  are  subject  to  late  attack  from  blight  or  mildew  dis- 
eases, such  as  potatoes,  celery  or  fall  strawberries,  should 
be  sprayed  carefully  until  they  are  ready  for  harvest. 

Use  the  wheel  hoe — or  the  hand  scuffle  hoe  when  the  tops 
have  grown  too  much  to  permit  the  use  of  the  wheel  hoe — 
as  long  as  possible,  especially  if  the  weather  is  dry;  a  few 
leaves  broken  off  beets,  carrots,  turnips  or  parsnips  will 
make  no  difference.  Late  planted  crops  make  their  great- 
est growth,  and  consequently  their  greatest  demand  upon 
soil  moisture,  during  the  last  two  weeks  before  hard  frost 
comes. 

" Preparedness"  for  the  First  Frosts 

It  is  still  too  early  to  put  any  vegetables  into  winter 
quarters,  but  a  number  of  things  must  receive  preliminary 
treatment  as  soon  as  they  are  ready.  A  sudden  cold  night 
may  kill  all  tender  vegetables,  such  as  beans,  squashes, 
melons  and  tomatoes,  in  latitudes  north  of  New  York  City, 
at  any  time  after  the  fifteenth  of  September.  This  first 
frost  is  often  followed  by  a  number  of  weeks  of  good  grow- 
ing weather,  but  do  not  be  caught  off  your  guard.  To  be  on 
the  safe  side  winter  squashes,  sugar  pumpkins  and  melons, 
which  are  matured  even  if  not  quite  ripe,  should  be  gathered 
and  placed  in  small  piles  so  that  they  can  be  covered  quickly 
if  occasion  arises.  The  less-matured  fruits  can  be  left  to 
grow  a  while  longer. 

The  ends  of  the  vines,  a  few  joints  beyond  the  last  fruits 
that  give  promise  of  becoming  large  enough  to  be  used, 
should  be  cut  off,  and  all  the  fruits  belonging  to  a  single  hill 


224      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

gathered  together  in  one  spot  while  still  attached  to  the 
vines,  so  they  may  be  covered  easily.  The  greatest  care 
should  be  taken  in  handling  all  these  things,  whether  they 
are  left  on  the  vines  or  not.  In  removing  them  cut  a  piece 
of  the  vine  with  each;  if  the  stem  is  knocked  off  decay  is 
almost  certain  to  set  in. 

Most  beans  can  be  used  either  dry  or  canned  green.  Just 
before  frost  is  to  be  expected  pick  all  immature  beans  for 
canning.  The  dried  beans,  of  course,  will  not  be  injured 
by  freezing,  but  as  soon  as  the  foliage  has  been  killed  they 
should  be  pulled  and  put  under  cover. 

Though  a  light  frost  might  blacken  the  foliage  without 
spoiling  the  tomatoes,  there  is  a  chance  of  their  being 
turned  soft  on  the  upper  side.  The  largest  fruits  should  be 
gathered  and  put  away  in  a  cold-frame  in  straw  or  marsh 
hay.  The  vines  of  smaller  fruits  can  be  left  for  a  while 
longer.  When  one  is  pretty  certain  that  a  killing  frost  is 
coming,  a  few  vines  should  be  taken  up,  roots  and  all,  and 
hung  up  in  a  dry  place  under  cover  or  in  the  cellar,  the  sap 
in  the  vines  being  sufficient  for  the  requirements  of  fruits 
that  have  nearly  matured.  In  this  way  ripe  tomatoes  may 
be  enjoyed  for  some  weeks  after  the  supply  in  the  garden 
has  been  killed  off. 

Though  onions  are  not  likely  to  be  damaged  by  early 
frost  they  may  be  made  almost  worthless  by  rainy  weather, 
which  will  cause  them  to  sprout  again  after  the  tops  have 
become  dry.  As  soon  as  they  begin  to  ripen,  as  will  be  indi- 
cated by  the  tops'  breaking  at  the  neck  and  beginning  to 
shrivel,  the  roots  dry  up  so  they  can  be  pulled  with  very 
little  effort. 

At  this  stage  no  time  should  be  lost  in  getting  them  out 
of  the  ground.  If  there  is  not  room  to  give  them  storage  in 
a  shallow  layer  two  or  three  inches  deep,  in  a  dry  place 
under  cover,  pile  them  in  windrows,  putting  four  or  five 
rows  together.  They  should  be  raked  over  every  day  with 
a  wooden  rake  until  any  soil  has  fallen  off  and  the  tops  have 
become  dry.  Then  get  them  under  cover. 

White  onions  should  be  pulled  as  soon  as  the  tops  break 


SEPTEMBER:  FIRST  WEEK  225 

over,  and  should  immediately  be  put  under  cover;  other- 
wise they  turn  green.  Most  of  the  white  varieties  are  ready 
to  pull  some  time  before  the  yellow  sorts. 

Cauliflower,  Brussels  sprouts,  Cos  lettuce  and  endive  all 
require  attention  as  they  begin  to  mature.  As  soon  as  the 
buttons  or  heads  of  cauliflower  form,  they  should  be  pro- 
tected from  sun  and  rain  by  tying  or  fastening  the  leaves 
together  at  the  tops.  Brussels  sprouts  will  fill  up  better 
to  the  top  of  the  stalks  if  the  heads  of  the  plants  are  cut  out 
after  the  sprouts  have  formed.  Most  varieties  of  Cos  lettuce 
require  tying  to  bleach  thoroughly;  use  raffia  or  soft  twine, 
and  tie  as  near  the  top  of  the  head  as  possible.  Endive  may 
be  either  tied  up  or  bleached  with  two  wide  boards  set 
A  -shaped  over  the  rows. 

Prepare  for  the  Winter's  Work  Under  Glass 

It  is  time  to  begin  preparations  for  the  winter  garden 
in  the  frames  or  greenhouse.  If  you  have  not  a  greenhouse 
already  there  is  time  during  the  next  six  or  eight  weeks 
to  build  one  and  to  get  your  tenderer  flowers  into  it  in  time 
to  give  your  old  enemy  Jack  Frost  the  slip.  Nothing  con- 
nected with  gardening  has  changed  more  during  the  last 
ten  or  fifteen  years  than  methods  of  greenhouse  construc- 
tion, particularly  for  small,  inexpensive,  practical-purpose 
houses.  A  house  of  almost  any  desired  shape  or  width  can 
be  bought  in  standard  units,  or  sections,  which  you  can 
put  together  with  little  trouble. 

If  the  compost  for  winter  has  not  already  been  made, 
ample  supplies  of  soil,  well-rotted  manure,  sand,  chip  dirt 
or  leaf  mold,  and  rotted  sod  should  be  gathered  together 
and  put  under  cover.  The  soil  in  the  frames,  which  may 
have  become  more  or  less  weedy  or  dried  out  through  the 
latter  part  of  the  summer,  should  be  put  into  shape  some 
time  before  you  are  to  use  it.  In  the  greenhouse  it  is  well 
to  let  the  soil  in  the  benches  or  beds  dry  out  thoroughly  a 
few  weeks  before  putting  them  in  use  again.  A  thorough 
sun  baking  gets  rid  of  some  insects  and  disease  germs. 


September:  Second  Week 

FALL  BULBS:  PLAN  NOW  TO  SECURE  A  LONG 
SEASON  OF  BLOOM  NEXT  SPRING;  TYPES 
AND  VARIETIES 

Bulbs  to  plant  this  fall,  which  will  bloom  next  spring, 
require  very  small  outlay.  A  few  dollars  will  buy  200  or 
300  bulbs  of  the  best-named  sorts,  and  most  of  these  will 
last,  or  self-propagate,  for  many  years.  They  are  easier 
to  plant  than  either  seeds  or  growing  plants,  and  if  a  few 
simple  precautions  are  followed  success  is  almost  certain. 

We  hear  a  good  deal  these  days  about  succession  crops- 
follow-up  crops  in  the  vegetable  garden  and  continuity 
of  bloom  in  the  flower  garden.  Very  little  attention,  how- 
ever, has  been  paid  to  obtaining  a  succession  of  bloom  in  the 
]bulb  garden.  The  spring-blooming  bulbs  are  popular,  but 
they  would  be  much  more  so  if  more  people  realized  that 
their  season  can,  by  proper  selection,  be  extended  from  very 
early  in  the  spring — much  earlier  than  any  of  the  perennials 
begin  to  bloom  or  than  is  safe  to  set  out  plants  in  flower  from 
indoors — all  through  the  spring  and  into  early  summer.  In 
fact,  their  season  may  be  extended  practically  throughout 
the  summer  if  one  includes  the  hardy  lilies;  but  these  are 
not,  of  course,  covered  in  the  term  "spring-flowering" 
bulbs,  and,  moreover,  most  of  them  require  treatment  rather 
different  from  the  latter.  In  describing  how  proper  selection 
may  prolong  the  flowering  season  in  the  bulb  garden,  I  have 
given  more  consideration  to  the  three  most  popular  and 
important  of  the  spring-blooming  bulbs — tulips,  narcissi 
and  hyacinths. 

Aside  from  the  fact  that,  as  ordinarily  planted,  the 
flowering  season  of  the  spring  bulbs  is  unfortunately  short, 
almost  every  point  that  one  can  think  of  is  in  their  favor; 
especially  so  for  the  use  of  the  person  whose  garden  time  as 

226 


SEPTEMBER:  SECOND  WEEK  227 

well  as  garden  space  is  limited.  The  culture  is  the  easiest 
imaginable:  buy  good  bulbs,  plant  them  properly,  give  them 
a  light  winter  mulching,  remove  it  in  the  spring — and 
success  is  yours.  The  reason  for  this  is  that  the  buyer  of  a 
bulb  is  getting  what  is  practically  a  "finished  product"; 
all  he  has  to  do,  so  to  speak,  is  to  open  the  can  and  warm 
the  contents,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  With  a  seed  or  a 
plant  or  even  a  shrub,  however,  he  has  got  to  do  some  real 
gardening.  And  the  reason  lies  in  the  fact  that  the  indus- 
trious Hollander  or  Frenchman  or  Jap  who  grew  the  bulb 
has  done  the  real  work  with  it;  the  flower  is  contained  in- 
side, literally  a  perfect  miniature  already  formed,  needing 
only  the  proper  application  of  the  sufficient  degree  of  mois- 
ture and  heat  and  sunshine  to  swell  it  to  its  mature  propor- 
tions and  to  tint  it  to  the  most  delicate  or  dazzling  of  colors. 
That  is  why,  for  example,  you  can  grow  a  lily  bulb  in 
pebbles  and  plain  water.  For  the  amateur,  success  with 
the  spring  flowering  bulbs  is  more  certain  than  any  other 
class  of  flowers.  As  already  stated,  their  culture  is  the 
simplest;  furthermore,  they  are  practically  free  from  insect 
pests  and  diseases,  more  so  than  any  other  class,  not  even 
excepting  shrubs;  finally  they  escape  that  greatest  of  all 
garden  plagues — the  midsummer  drought.  When  your 
other  choice  flowers  are  drying  up  or  necessitating  the 
daily  use  of  the  hose  and  the  constant  maintenance  of  a 
dust  mulch,  your  bulbs  are  lying  dry  and  dormant,  "resting 
up"  for  the  autumnal  root  growth  and  the  spring  flowering 
period,  at  both  of  which  seasons  moisture  is  usually  abun- 
dant. Nor  is  their  cost  excessive:  the  most  beautiful  of  the 
narcissi  for  planting  in  mass  or  naturalizing  can  be  purchased 
for  from  half  a  cent  to  a  cent  and  a  half  apiece.  Nor,  again, 
is  the  fact  that  their  cheery  blossoms  come  at  a  season  when 
practically  no  other  flowers  are  in  bloom,  to  be  overlooked. 

Plan  Your  Bulb  Garden  Before  You  Order 

Before  making  out  your  bulb  order,  even  though  you 
take  pains  to  select  varieties  that  will  give  you  a  long  season 


228      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

of  bloom,  careful  consideration  should  be  given  the  method 
in  which  the  bulbs  are  to  be  used.  There  are  three  quite 
distinct  general  methods  of  planting:  in  formal  or  designed 
beds ;  in  informal  beds  or  in  long  borders,  and  in  naturalizing 
either  in  single  specimens  or  small  groups,  or  in  large  col- 
onies. A  great  change  in  the  method  of  planting  has  taken 
place  during  the  last  decade  or  two — a  change  that  proves  a 
boon  to  the  gardener.  In  passing  it  may  be  noted  that  for- 
mal beds  are  no  longer  popular  save  in  certain  locations,  and 
the  bad  reputation  bulbs  had  in  regard  to  their  short  bloom- 
ing season  was  due  mainly  to  the  fact  that  when  used  for 
bedding  or  designs,  as  they  formerly  were,  the  gardener  had 
to  select  sorts  that  would  be  as  uniform  as  possible  in  time  of 
flowering,  height,  color  and  in  habit  of  growth.  It  is  rather 
interesting  to  note,  too,  that  whereas  the  hyacinth  formerly 
occupied  the  chief  position  among  these  spring  blooming 
bulbs,  since  they  met  these  conditions  most  satisfactorily, 
this  state  of  things  is  being  reversed  and  tulips  and  narcissi 
are  being  given  more  and  more  prominence.  Practic- 
ally every  fall  catalogue  now  emphasizes  and  makes  a 
special  feature  of  Darwin  tulips.  Formal  beds,  and  espe- 
cially those  laid  out  on  the  lawn  to  display  geometrical 
designs,  are,  it  is  a  pleasure  to  note,  growing  out  of  favor. 
In  these  days  one  seldom  sees  the  old-fashioned  anchor, 
ship  or  cartwheel  that  used  to  mar  the  appearance  of  an 
otherwise  pretty  front  lawn.  Such  abortions  never  did  have 
any  practical  or  artistic  raison  d'etre,  although  the  legiti- 
mate, formal  bed  still  has  its  place,  either  in  the  laying  out 
of  formal  grounds  or  to  supply  a  mass  of  color  as  part  of 
some  landscape  scheme. 

I  would  urge  most  emphatically  that  the  bulb  buyer  get 
over  his  habit  of  sending  in  an  order  for  Collection  A  or 
Collection  B  to  "be  planted  according  to  the  diagram  here- 
with. "  Don't  be  tempted  into  buying  a  collection  of  bulbs 
just  because,  for  the  same  money,  you  get  a  dozen  or  two 
more  than  you  would  by  making  your  own  collection  of 
named  varieties.  What  you  are  looking  for  for  your  money 
is  not  the  largest  number  of  bulbs,  but  the  most  satisfactory 


SEPTEMBER:  SECOND  WEEK  229 

and  longest  display  of  flowers,  and  this  is  only  accomplished 
by  making  your  own  collection  for  planting  an  informal  bed 
or  border,  or  by  naturalizing  them,  or,  better  still,  by  using 
both  methods. 

Figuring  Out  the  Number  of  Bulbs  Needed 

To  select  and  plan  for  a  long  season  of  bloom,  first  meas- 
ure your  bed  or  border  and  see  how  many  bulbs  of  the  re- 
quired variety  it  will  take  to  fill  it.  Hyacinths  and  the  late 
flowering  tulips  should  be  set  six  to  ten  inches  apart  each 
way;  the  smaller  earlier  flowering  tulips  and  Dutch  Roman 
or  miniature  hyacinths  a  little  closer,  say  five  to  eight  inches. 
The  various  narcissi  should  be  put  from  six  to  twelve  inches 
apart,  depending  on  variety  and  size  of  bulb,  for  full  effect 
the  first  season.  The  narcissi,  however,  multiply  very 
rapidly.  From  a  few  dozen  bulbs  you  can,  in  the  course  of 
three  or  four  years,  get  enough  to  make  further  plantings  or 
to  fill  in  a  good  deal  of  space,  if,  in  the  first  place,  they  are 
set  rather  far  apart. 

Naturalizing  is  simply  getting  as  natural  an  effect  as 
possible.  The  simplest  way  is  to  get  a  sufficient  number  of 
the  bulbs  of  the  flowers  you  want,  scatter  them  thinly  broad- 
cast, and  plant  where  they  fall.  For  this  purpose,  of  course, 
only  plants  are  used  which  are  perfectly  hardy  and  will 
increase  themselves  from  year  to  year;  therefore,  perfectly 
satisfactory  results  can  be  had  by  using  bulbs  that  are  not 
all  of  the  first  size.  For  instance,  if  you  get  a  third  of  the 
quantity  in  first  size  bulbs  and  the  rest  in  smaller,  you  will 
have  a  good  show  the  first  year  after  planting  and  plenty 
of  other  bulbs  coming  on  for  succeeding  years. 

Having  then  determined  the  number  of  bulbs  you  will 
require,  there  remains  the  problem  of  selecting  those  which 
will  give  the  best  satisfaction. 

Early  and  Late  Tulips 

I  mention  the  tulips  first,  for  they  are  at  this  time  prob- 
ably the  most  popular  of  all  the  spring  flowering  bulbs. 


230      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

There  are  three  main  classes  or  sections:  the  Early  Flowering 
sorts,  single  or  double;  the  May  Flowering  or  Cottage  Gar- 
den, and  the  Darwin  type,  which  also  flowers  in  May.  The 
other  classes  that  are  not  so  important  are  the  Paris  or 
Dragon  tulips,  which  are  good,  strong  growers  and  are 
beautifully  colored  with  fringed  and  grotesque  shaped 
flowers,  and  the  class  known  as  the  Breeder  tulip,  from 
which  the  Darwins  have  been  selected  and  developed. 
In  size,  season  of  bloom,  robustness  of  growth,  etc.,  these 
are  similar  to  the  Darwins;  the  reason  for  their  having 
dropped  out  of  the  public  eye  is  doubtless  that  their  dull, 
solid  "self  colors"  were  not  popular  for  bedding  effects. 
Some  catalogues  do  not  list  them,  but  I  can  assure  you  that 
it  will  be  very  worth  while  for  you  to  find  one  that  does  and 
to  try  out  a  few  varieties. 

The  time  of  flowering  depends  upon  variety  as  well  as 
type;  therefore,  for  the  longest  flowering  season  for  tulips, 
pick  from  the  earliest  of  the  single  and  double  early  flower- 
ing several  of  the  late  and  mediums  of  both  the  Cottage 
Garden  and  the  Darwin  types,  and  a  few  of  the  extra  late 
of  the  latter.  Some  of  the  best  extra-early  singles  are  Kaiser 
Kroon,  scarlet,  edged  with  yellow;  Prosperine,  Sir  Thomas 
Lip  ton,  Vermillion  Brilliant  and  White  Swan.  In  the  May 
Flowering,  Darwin  and  Parrot  sections  are  many  splendid 
new  varieties,  which  are  described  in  the  catalogues. 

Narcissi,  Daffodils  and  Jonquils 

Of  the  narcissi  there  are  also  a  number  of  different  types, 
all  more  or  less  confused  under  the  names  given  them  in  the 
trade.  The  most  important  class  is  the  Giant  Trumpet 
narcissus.  This  includes  such  popular  and  splendid  sorts  as 
Emperor,  Glory  of  Leiden,  "the  king  of  daffodils,"  and  the 
new  giant  flowered  King  Alfred,  which  has  attracted  a 
great  deal  of  attention  at  the  flower  show. 

In  addition  is  the  Medium  Trumpet  class,  which  is  listed 
under  such  various  catalogue  names  as  "Star,"  "Crown," 
' '  Chalice-cup  "  and  ' '  Peerless ' '  narcissi.  This  class  includes 


SEPTEMBER:  SECOND  WEEK  231 

Barrii  Conspicuous,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  all  narcissi 
and  especially  valuable  for  cutting,  and  the  several  fine 
Incomparabilis  and  Leedsii  varieties. 

The  Polyanthus,  " Cluster-flowered,"  or  "Nosegay" 
narcissi  are  different  from  the  foregoing  in  that  the  flowers 
are  borne  in  clusters  and  are  also  deservedly  popular  on 
account  of  their  pleasant  fragrance.  Paper  White  Grandi- 
florus,  which  is  a  favorite  cut  flower  of  the  florists,  and  the 
"Chinese  Sacred  Lily,"  which  everyone  has  seen  growing  in 
bowls  of  water  and  pebbles,  are  the  two  best  known  of  this 
class,  but  a  number  of  the  others  are  equally  fragrant  and 
beautiful  and  should  be  tried.  This  class  is  not  as  hardy  as 
the  others,  but  you  should  order  a  few  of  them  along  with 
your  bulbs  for  outdoor  planting,  to  grow  in  the  house  during 
the  winter,  either  in  bowls  of  pebbles  and  water,  or  in  pots 
or  bulb-pans  of  light,  rich  soil.  Most  of  them  will  come 
through  all  right  outdoors,  although  they  must  have  ade- 
quate winter  protection. 

The  double-flowering  sorts  of  daffodils  are  distinct  from 
all  the  foregoing  in  having  their  flowers  conspicuously  dou- 
ble, which  gives  them  an  entirely  different  appearance.  Of 
this  class  Van  Scion,  the  old-fashioned  favorite  Dutch 
daffodil,  is  the  best  known.  Sulphur  (or  Silver)  Phoenix  is 
dull  white  with  a  pale  yellow  center  and  is  the  largest  and 
finest  of  the  double  sorts. 

The  double  Poet's  narcissus,  Alba  Plena  Odorata,  is  also 
exceptionally  beautiful  and  sweet  scented,  but  it  requires 
for  its  successful  culture  rather  heavy  soil  and  a  partially 
shaded  position. 

Jonquils  might  be  termed  miniature  narcissi,  the  whole 
plant  being  smaller,  but  with  an  exceptionally  graceful 
and  attractive  habit  of  growth.  Campernelle  Rugulosus  is 
the  largest  and  strongest  growing  of  these,  and  is  very 
fragrant. 

The  Poet's  type  of  narcissus  has  flowers  that  are  white 
and  much  simpler  in  construction  than  the  others,  the 
petals  expanding  flat  open  or  even  reflexed.  Instead  of  the 
" trumpet"  they  have  a  shallow  cup,  usually  golden  in 


232      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

color,  distinctly  margined  with  some  sharply  contrasting 
tint,  such  as  red  or  scarlet.  Poeticus  Ornatus  and  King 
Edward  VII  are  improved  forms  of  the  type,  but  they 
flower  earlier,  and  for  a  succession  of  bloom  you  should 
plant  with  them  some  of  the  old  Pheasant's  Eye,  or  original 
Poeticus.  The  Poet's  type  is  the  most  recent  addition  to  the 
family,  the  result  of  a  cross  between  the  Poeticus  and 
Polyanthus  types,  and  is  sometimes  called  the  Hardy 
Cluster-flowered  Daffodil,  in  contradistinction  to  the  semi- 
hardy  Polyanthus  type.  The  several  splendid  varieties  of 
this  new  section  are  all  robust,  healthy  growers,  with 
Poeticus-like  flowers  borne  in  clusters  on  strong,  stiff  stems. 
For  a  succession  of  narcissi  of  the  several  types  mentioned, 
here  are  some  of  the  best  for  early,  medium  and  late  bloom- 
ing :  Early — Trumpet  Major,  Golden  Spur,  Princeps,  Henry 
Irving,  Beethoven,  Stella  (Incomparabilis) ;  for  medium — 
Glory  of  Leiden,  Emperor,  Empress,  most  of  the  Incom- 
parabilis and  the  Leedsii  sorts,  Bwbidgeii,  Poeticus  Grandi- 
florus  and  Alsace  (Poeta)\  for  late — Conspicuus  Barii,  the 
single  Jonquils,  the  other  Poeta  varieties,  Poeticus,  P. 
Ornatus,  and  P.  King  Edward  VII. 

Hyacinths  for  Succession 

The  matter  of  making  out  your  hyacinth  order  is  much 
simpler.  For  outdoor  culture  there  are  only  two  types,  the 
single  and  double  Dutch  hyacinths  in  various  colors,  al- 
though the  same  varieties  in  smaller  bulbs  are  to  be  had 
under  the  name  of  Dutch  Roman  or  Miniature  hyacinths. 
Many  catalogues  now  list  the  named  varieties  classified  as 
to  color,  so  that  the  selection  of  those  adapted  to  your  spe- 
cial needs  is  an  easy  matter. 

For  a  succession  of  hyacinths,  here  are  a  few  of  the  best 
standard-named  varieties: 

EARLY — Baroness  Van  Thull,  L'Innocence,  white;  Scho- 
tel,  blue;  Garibaldi,  red;  Moreno,  Rosea  maxima,  pink. 

MEDIUM — La  Grandesse,  Madame  Van  der  Hoop,  white; 
Czar  Peter,  Grant  Maitre,  La  Payrouse,  blue;  Aoi  des 


SEPTEMBER:  SECOND  WEEK  233 

Beiges,  Robert  Steiger,  red;  Jacques,  Gertrude,  pink;  Yel- 
low Hammer,  Ida,  yellow. 

LATE — La  Franchise,  white;  King  of  Blues,  blue;  King  of 
Yellows,  yellow;  Etna,  dark  rose;  Queen  of  the  Pink,  pink. 

Almost  all  above  are  old  standard  single  sorts;  the  new 
named  sorts  show  improvement  in  size  and  color. 

It  is  advisable  to  make  out  your  order  for  bulbs  as  early 
as  possible.  Orders  are  filled  in  rotation,  as  the  supplies 
arrive — practically  all  the  spring-blooming  bulbs  are  im- 
ported— and  if  there  is  a  shortage  the  late  buyers  are  the 
ones  who  have  to  accept  substitutes  or  go  without.  Plant- 
ing should  not  be  done  too  early,  but  it  is  always  advisable 
to  have  the  bulbs  on  hand  so  that  they  can  be  put  in  at 
once  when  conditions  appear  favorable.  The  object  is 
to  get  a  good  root  growth  without  having  the  tops  start. 

It  is  a  great  mistake,  however,  to  send  in  an  order  before 
you  have  taken  the  time  carefully  to  figure  out  your  needs. 
As  a  general  rule,  you  will  get  more  satisfaction  for  your 
money  by  avoiding  ready-mixed  collections  and  varieties 
about  which  you  know  nothing  except  that  they  are  low 
priced.  Estimate  carefully  the  amount  of  space  you  can 
devote  to  bulbs,  keeping  in  mind  that  all  the  spring-flower- 
ing sorts  may  be  used  in  a  double-flowering  system,  with 
annuals  or  bedding  plants  set  out  in  late  spring  in  the  bulb 
beds.  Or  the  bulbs  may  be  put  in  the  rose  bed,  or  the  hardy 
border,  to  bloom  early  and  be  out  of  the  way. 

As  to  the  proportion  of  each  kind  of  bulb  to  order,  that  is 
a  question  both  for  personal  taste  and  for  the  results  which 
are  aimed  at.  For  design  beds  and  formal  effects,  hyacinths 
are  the  most  reliable  for  uniformity  in  height,  color  and  time 
of  blooming.  Fortunately,  however,  design  beds,  dis- 
figuring the  otherwise  pretty  lawns  of  small  places,  are  less 
frequently  seen  than  they  were  a  few  years  ago. 

Tulips,  through  the  development  of  many  splendid  new 
varieties  that  have  increased  season  of  bloom  and  range  of 
colors,  particularly  in  the  more  artistic  and  delicate  shades, 
have  gained  greatly  in  popularity  during  the  last  decade. 
Many  of  the  new  sorts  are  fine  for  cut  flowers,  as  well  as 


234      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

useful  for  all  kinds  of  gardening — solid  beds  or  borders, 
lines  of  color  against  the  house,  or  scattered  groups  to  lighten 
up  the  shrubbery  borders. 

Small  groups  of  even  a  dozen  or  so  Darwin  or  Dutch 
Breeder  tulips,  with  their  enormous  blossoms  borne  on 
stems  two  to  three  feet  tall,  and  remaining  in  flower  for 
several  weeks,  make  a  striking  display.  Tulips  should  be 
replanted  every  second  or  third  year,  but  this  is  easily  done. 

The  narcissus  group,  which  includes  the  jonquils  and 
daffodils,  is  especially  suited  for  naturalizing  or  for  planting 
in  irregular  groups  on  the  lawn,  in  semishady  positions,  to 
propagate  and  look  after  themselves.  I  know  of  plantings 
of  narcissus  that  have  not  been  disturbed  for  twenty  years, 
but  that  still  bloom  freely.  For  the  best  blossoms,  however, 
the  bulbs  should  be  separated  every  four  or  five  years. 

For  flowers  in  the  lawn,  where  the  grass  must  be  cut 
early  in  spring,  the  smaller  earliest-flowering  bulbs,  such  as 
crocuses,  squills,  snowdrops  and  chionodoxas,  should  be 
selected  because  they  are  hardy,  and  bloom  early  and  never 
grow  tall.  Even  with  these  the  foh'age  should  be  allowed  to 
remain  as  long  as  possible  before  cutting,  so  the  bulbs  will 
have  every  possible  chance  to  ripen  naturally. 


September:  Third  Week 

FALL  PLANTING  OF  SHRUBS  AND  OTHER  ORNA- 
MENTALS: WHEN  TO  PLANT;  PREPARATION 
OF  SOIL;  TREATMENT  ON  RECEIPT;  PRUNING 

The  planting  of  hardy  shrubs  and  perennials  which  are 
not  subject  to  winter  injury  presents  the  greatest  opportu- 
nity for  constructive  work  at  this  season  of  the  year. 

There  are  two  good  reasons  why  it  is  advisable  to  do  this 
work  now:  The  first  is  that  such  plants,  if  set  out  now,  will 
have  from  two  to  four  months'  more  growth  before  encoun- 
tering the  usual  summer  drought  than  they  would  if  set  out 
next  spring — and  during  the  first  year  after  planting  dry 
weather  is  the  biggest  source  of  loss,  even  though  the  plant- 
ing is  properly  done.  In  the  second  place,  this  work  if  de- 
ferred until  spring  is  apt  to  be  put  off  until  quite  late  or 
postponed  altogether,  because  there  are  so  many  other 
things  insistently  demanding  attention  at  that  busy  season. 
Moreover,  with  many  plants,  especially  those  blooming 
during  the  spring  and  early  summer,  a  whole  year  is  gained 
by  planting  now,  instead  of  waiting  a  few  months  until 
spring. 

In  fall  planting,  as  in  spring  planting,  there  is  no  set  rule 
as  to  the  best  time  to  plant  that  can  be  applied  to  every- 
thing and  to  every  season.  "The  earlier  the  better"  is  a 
slogan  that  can  be  quite  generally  adopted  for  fall  planting. 
In  seasons  when  the  ground  is  very  dry  from  a  prolonged 
summer  drought  it  may  be  advisable  to  wait  until  the  fall 
rains  begin,  but  even  then,  unless  planting  is  to  be  under- 
taken on  a  very  large  scale,  water  can  be  given  at  the  time 
of  transplanting,  and  if  necessary  two  or  three  times  there- 
after, to  carry  the  plants  through  until  the  fall  rains  come. 
The  extra  time  gained,  even  if  it  is  but  a  week  or  so,  is  im- 
portant, because  the  more  firmly  the  roots  become  estab- 

235 


236 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


lished  before  freezing  weather  the  more  certain  is  the  success 
of  the  planting. 

When  to  Plant  Shrubs 

The  ornamental  shrubs  comprise  the  most  important 
group  of  plants  for  setting  out  in  the  fall  The  proper  time 
for  planting  is  just  after  the  first  hard  frosts — from  the 
middle  of  September  to  the  middle  of  November,  according 
to  the  latitude  and  location.  But  if  you  wait  until  the 
hard  frost  comes  before  making  your  preparations  and  be- 
fore engaging  your  stock  you  will  be  too  late.  Like  the 
evergreens,  the  shrubs  when  once  planted  will  become  per- 
manent features  of  the  place,  and  the  task  of  planning  where 


Fall  planting.  1,  Dwarf  evergreens.  2,  Large  individual  shrubs.  3,  Tall  shrubs  for  back- 
grounds and  screening.  4,  Lower  shrubs  for  foregrounds.  5,  Low  shrubs  or  bulbs  for 
edge  of  planting.  6,  Tall  informal  hedge  and  street  screen.  7,  Formal  or  semi-formal 
hedge  along  street.  8,  Tall,  dense  evergreen  hedge  and  windbreak  north  and  west  of 
vegetable  garden. 

they  are  to  go  should  not  be  done  in  a  hurry.  Shrubs  with 
ornamental  foliage  and  with  colored  berries  and  bark  are 
just  as  beautiful  as  those  which  flower.  Moreover,  they 
serve  to  brighten  the  landscape  during  fall  and  winter  when 
the  deciduous  flowering  shrubs  have  lost  their  beauty. 

There  is  no  "best  way"  of  using  shrubs;  they  are  avail- 
able for  all  sorts  of  purposes — hedges,  windbreaks,  screens, 
masses,  low  and  tall  borders,  single  ornamental  specimens, 
and  for  everything  between  the  stiff  formality  of  the  closely 


SEPTEMBER:  THIRD  WEEK  237 

clipped  boxwood  or  privet  hedge  to  the  naturalistic  abandon 
of  a  mixed  border  planted  against  a  wall  or  a  boundary  line 
with  every  appearance  of  having  grown  there  as  naturally 
as  the  weeds  by  the  roadside. 

Shrubs  can  be  bought  at  from  fifteen  to  fifty  cents  apiece, 
the  majority  of  them  for  not  over  a  quarter,  so  that  a  few 
dollars  a  year  invested  in  them  will  soon  make  a  represent- 
ative collection.  Even  if  only  a  few  shrubs  are  set  out, 
care  should  be  taken  to  select  those  that  bloom  at  different 
seasons  of  the  year.  With  half  a  dozen,  flowers  can  be  had 
practically  throughout  the  summer  and  early  fall.  In 
estimating  the  number  of  shrubs  required  for  a  bed  or  border 
of  a  given  size  allow  about  five  feet  each  way  for  the  taller 
sorts  and  three  for  the  lower.  A  good  principle  to  keep  in 
mind,  either  in  making  groups  or  in  placing  individual 
specimens,  is  to  maintain  what  landscape  architects  call 
the  "open  center."  Do  not  set  the  plants  indiscriminately 
here  and  there,  breaking  up  the  lawn  and  abruptly  termi- 
nating views  from  the  front  porch,  veranda,  windows  or 
other  frequented  places.  Keep  the  shrubbery  plantings 
rather  at  the  outer  margins  and  be  careful  to  use  low- 
growing  shrubs  where  some  nearby  attraction  or  distant 
vista  would  otherwise  be  shut  off. 

Preparation  for  Planting  Important 

As  a  rule,  shrubs  are  not  particular  in  regard  to  soil, 
but  it  is  highly  important  that  the  best  possible  prepara- 
tion should  be  given.  And  as  several  years'  supply  of  nour- 
ishment is  to  be  incorporated  a  generous  supply  of  coarse 
ground  bone  and  acid  phosphate,  as  well  as  some  potash, 
should  be  included  with  the  manure  to  be  dug  into  the 
soil.  For  the  shrub  border  the  whole  space  to  be  planted 
should  be  plowed  or  dug.  Where  individual  specimens 
or  small  groups  are  to  go  the  ground  may  be  prepared  by 
digging  out  and  enriching  holes  of  suitable  size.  Where  a 
hard  subsoil  is  encountered  it  may  be  advisable  to  loosen 
it  with  dynamite. 


238      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

The  manure  should  be  worked  well  down  below  the 
surface;  a  couple  of  good  forkfuls  and  two  or  three  hand- 
fuls  of  a  mixture  of  bone,  acid  phosphate  and  potash  to 
each  shrub  will  not  be  too  much.  The  sooner  the  ground 
can  be  got  ready  the  better.  An  interval  between  its  prep- 
aration and  the  actual  planting  gives  it  a  chance  to  settle, 
and  the  various  fertilizers  used  will  be  in  more  available 
form  for  the  newly  set  plants  to  appropriate. 

Pack  the  Soil  Firmly  about  the  Roots 

From  the  nursery,  properly  grown  plants  will  be  received 
with  a  mass  of  fibrous  roots  carefully  wrapped  in  burlap  to 
keep  them  moist  and  in  good  growing  condition.  If  the 
packing  is  dry  when  they  arrive  they  should  be  placed, 
packing  and  all,  in  a  tub,  and  water  applied  slowly  until 
no  more  will  be  absorbed.  Put  in  only  a  little  water  at  a 
time;  do  not  soak  the  whole  mass.  It  is  advisable  to  plant 
as  soon  as  possible  after  they  are  received;  but  if  for  any 
reason  they  must  be  held  for  a  few  days  keep  under  cover 
and  out  of  the  wind.  Or  if  planting  must  be  delayed  for  a 
week  or  so  cut  the  bundles  open,  take  out  the  individual 
plants  and  heel  them  in  in  a  trench. 

Firm  planting  is  of  the  greatest  importance,  because 
even  if  a  favorable  fall  is  encountered  the  plants  will  not 
be  very  firmly  established  by  winter,  and  damage  from 
strong  winds  or  from  the  heaving  of  the  soil  is  pretty  sure 
to  result  unless  the  earth  has  been  packed  round  the  roots 
solidly  enough  so  that  there  is  no  "give"  to  the  plants. 

In  planting  do  not  expose  the  roots  even  for  a  few  minutes 
to  wind  and  sun.  The  most  convenient  method  is  to  carry 
the  plants  in  a  large,  shallow  basket,  keeping  the  roots 
covered  with  moist  burlap.  Any  broken  or  bruised  roots 
should  be  cut  back  to  clean,  hard  wood.  Deciduous  trees 
and  shrubs  which  flower  after  midsummer  should  be  well 
cut  back  after  planting.  The  early  flowering  sorts  have 
already  formed  their  buds,  and  pruning  means  fewer  flowers 
the  first  spring;  but  if  many  of  the  roots  have  been  removed, 


SEPTEMBER:  THIRD  WEEK  239 

so  that  there  seems  to  be  too  much  top  in  proportion,  it  is 
best  to  sacrifice  part  of  this  first  crop  of  flowers  to  make 
more  certain  of  the  ultimate  success  of  the  plant. 

If  water  must  be  applied  put  it  in  the  bottom  of  the  hole, 
before  the  plant  is  set,  and  again  after  it  is  about  half  filled 
with  earth;  never  pour  the  water  on  top  of  the  soil.  See  that 
the  soil  is  well  pressed  in  about  the  roots  as  the  hole  is  being 
filled.  Do  not  fill  the  hole  up  level  and  then  make  it  firm 
by  pressing  on  the  top.  The  top  inch  or  two  of  soil  should 
be  left  loose  to  act  as  a  mulch.  Most  shrubs  should  be  set 
slightly  deeper  than  they  were  growing  at  the  nursery.  Tall 
specimens  which  appear  the  least  bit  wabbly  should  be  im- 
mediately staked  and  tied  with  bits  of  soft  cloth  or  fastened 
with  pieces  of  old  rubber  hose  to  prevent  injury  from  the 
wind. 


September:  Fourth  Week 

PERENNIALS  FOR  PLANTING  AND  RE-PLANTING 
THIS  FALL:  PHLOX,  IRIS,  PEONIES 

Most  perennials  can  be  planted  in  the  fall  with  advantage, 
because  there  is  more  time  to  do  the  work,  and  they  will  get 
a  stronger  and  much  earlier  start,  than  would  be  possible  by 
spring  planting.  The  spring  blooming  perennials,  in  fact, 
must  be  planted  in  the  fall  if  one  would  be  certain  of  results 
the  first  year.  In  addition  to  new  beds  to  be  made,  or  new 
plants  added  to  one's  collection,  there  are  quite  sure  to  be  a 
number  of  perennials  which  should  be  taken  up,  separated, 
and  replanted,  to  continue  to  give  the  best  results.  Both 
those  which  form  new  "crowns,"  like  Golden  Glow  (rud- 
beckia),  helianthus,  Physostegia,  and  others  similar,  and 
those  which  propagate  by  making  increasingly  larger 
clumps,  such  as  phlox,  hibiscus,  iris,  and  others  of  similar 
growth,  gradually  exhaust  the  plant  food  and  overcrowd, 
reaching  a  point,  after  several  seasons'  growth,  where  they 
will  deteriorate  rapidly  unless  separated  and  replanted; 
preferably  they  should  be  given  fresh  soil,  although  replant- 
ing in  the  same  place,  after  the  ground  has  been  thoroughly 
dug  and  enriched,  will  renew  their  vigor  and  size. 

As  all  of  this  work  will  more  or  less  upset  the  garden  it  is 
best  to  delay  it  until  after  the  first  killing  frosts.  New  beds 
or  borders,  however,  should  be  made  in  the  meantime. 
They  should  be  trenched  to  a  depth  of  some  two  feet.  Nat- 
ural drainage  should  be  good,  and  the  beds  so  located  that 
no  surface  water  will  stand  on  them  during  the  winter. 
As  the  plants  are  to  remain  for  several  years,  the  soil  can 
hardly  be  made  too  rich,  and  plenty  of  coarse  ground  bone 
should  be  used  in  addition  to  the  manure  or  compost  em- 
ployed, as  this  will  decay  gradually  and  continues  to  furnish 
an  even  supply  of  plant  food  for  several  years. 

240 


SEPTEMBER:  FOURTH  WEEK  241 

Do  the  Fall  Planting  Early 

Unless  a  late  dry  summer  has  made  soil  conditions  un- 
favorable, early  planting  is,  generally,  advisable;  there 
may  be  dry  weather  later,  or  an  extra  early  fall.  Most 
of  the  plants  may  be  safely  handled  soon  after  their  bloom- 
ing season  is  over,  especially  such  sorts  as  go  into  a  semi- 
dormant  state  of  growth,  as  indicated  by  their  foliage 
turning  brown  or  dying  down  altogether.  Therefore  the 
early  flowering  things  should  be  moved  first,  Bleeding 
Heart  (Dicentra),  the  early  phloxes  and  hardy  poppies, 
lily-of-the-valley,  primroses,  and  many  others  can  all  be 
planted  immediately.  Hardy  perennial  plants  which  are 
bought  from  the  nursery  or  seedsmen,  and  have  been 
grown  in  pots,  may  also  be  set  out  immediately,  and  the 
sooner  they  are  set  out,  the  stronger  plants  they  will  make 
before  winter.  The  things  still  in  active  growth,  like  the 
late  phloxes,  chrysanthemums,  fall  anemones,  helianthus, 
cardinal  flowers,  Tritomas,  can  wait  until  they  are  through 
flowering  or  after  hard  frost.  In  ordering  from  a  nursery, 
the  proper  time  for  sending  the  plants  may  be  left  to  the 
grower,  but  if  a  considerable  number  of  things  are  being 
bought  it  is  well  to  have  them  sent  in  two  lots, — the  earlier 
things  a  couple  of  weeks  in  advance  of  the  others.  This  will 
be  better  for  the  plants,  and  the  work  of  planting  will  not 
have  to  be  so  rushed. 

Increasing  Plants  by  "Division" 

In  replanting  your  own  plants  or  in  exchanging  plants 
with  your  neighbors, — which  is  a  good  and  inexpensive  way 
of  increasing  your  collection, — the  plants  should  be  kept 
out  of  the  ground  as  short  a  time  as  possible,  and  at  all  times 
should  be  protected  by  moss  or  wet  bagging  from  sun  and 
wind.  There  are  two  common  mistakes  to  be  avoided.  The 
first  is  leaving  the  clumps  to  be  replanted  too  large;  most 
perennials  can  be  divided  easily  by  hand,  and  part  of  a 
clump  or  a  section  of  a  plant  with  a  few  strong  buds  or 
crowns,  will  give  much  better  results  in  almost  all  cases  than 


242      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

a  large  clump  or  several  pieces  of  roots  together.  The  other 
mistake  is,  with  such  an  abundance  of  material  on  hand  as 
one  will  have  in  taking  plants  up  from  an  old  border,  that 
the  plants  will  be  reset  too  close.  Give  them  plenty  of  room. 
In  most  cases,  the  average  height  of  the  plant  will  not  be  too 
great  for  the  distance  apart  to  set  them.  All  tall  growing 
things  such  as  Aquilegias,  Delphiniums,  Digitalis,  and  so 
forth  may  be  set  closer  in  proportion  to  their  height.  In 
taking  plants  up,  the  lawn  edger,  which  should  be  well 
sharpened,  is  very  much  better  for  cutting  around  the  plants 
than  the  spade;  and  also  for  cutting  up  things  which  make 
dense  clumps,  and  are  not  readily  separated  by  hand,  such 
as  phlox.  Some  of  the  other  good  perennials  which  may  be 
set  now,  include  columbine  (Aquilegias);  Dictamnus  (Gas 
plant);  Hardy  Daisies;  Hardy  Pinks;  Liatris;  Lychnis; 
Sweet  William;  Veronica.  Some  perennials  especially  good 
for  shady  positions  are  Aconitum;  Anemones;  Anchusa 
(Alkanet);  Hepatica;  Primroses;  Polyanthus;  Ranunculus; 
Saxaf rages;  Trillium;  Vinca;  hardy  Violets. 

Selecting  Phlox  for  a  Long  Season  of  Bloom 

The  most  important  of  all  our  American  hardy  perennials 
and,  in  the  opinion  of  many,  the  most  indispensable  of  all 
perennials  for  the  hardy  border,  are  the  members  of  the 
phlox  family.  By  careful  selection  of  the  varieties  from  the 
different  species,  they  may  be  had  in  bloom  continually  from 
quite  early  in  the  season  until  frost.  There  is  a  wide  range 
of  colors,  practical  freedom  from  diseases  or  insect  enemies, 
and  the  flowers  of  many  varieties  are  fragrant.  The  ear- 
liest flowering  varieties  are  of  creeping  habit.  One  of  these 
is  phlox  subulata,  which  is  very  hardy  and  good  for  a  ground 
cover,  even  under  somewhat  adverse  conditions,  provided 
only  the  soil  is  not  too  dry.  The  foliage  is  evergreen  and 
somewhat  resembles  moss,  giving  it  its  common  name  of 
Moss  or  Mountain  Pink.  While  the  old  variety  of  this, 
the  one  still  most  commonly  seen,  is  of  a  jarring,  purplish 
rose  color,  it  may  also  be  had  in  pure  white,  light  rose  and 


SEPTEMBER:  FOURTH  WEEK  243 

pale  lilac  colors.  Phlox  Douglasii  may  be  used  successfully 
where  the  soil  is  too  dry  for  the  above.  For  shady  places 
use  Divaricata;  while  the  plant  itself  is  creeping  in  habit, 
the  stems  rise  to  a  height  of  a  foot  or  a  foot  and  a  half;  it 
remains  in  flower  throughout  the  early  summer.  There  are 
two  splendid  new  varieties  of  this,  one  dark  blue  and  the 
other  white,  which  make  it  still  more  valuable.  The  earliest 
of  the  upright  phloxes  come  into  bloom  in  May;  among 
these  are  Miss  Lingard,  white  with  a  dark  colored  eye; 
Mrs.  Dalrimple,  rosy  white  with  scarlet  eye,  and  Ninon, 
deep  rosy  lilac.  Among  the  best  of  the  standard  summer 
flowering  varieties  are — of  the  pure  white — Mrs.  Jenkins; 
Frau  Anton  Buchner;  Jeanne  d'Arc,  which  come  into  bloom 
in  the  order  mentioned  and  are  especially  good;  Frau  Anton 
Buchner  has  the  largest  individual  flowers  of  any  white  sort. 
Among  the  brightest  of  the  crimson  and  red  sorts  are 
Tragedie,  brilliant  carmine;  Coquelicot,  pure  scarlet  with 
crimson  eye;  Henry  Marcel,  red  with  bright  salmon  shading; 
Siebold,  one  of  the  best  bright  reds;  Vesuvius,  dazzling  red 
with  purple  eye.  Between  these  there  is  a  wide  range  of 
colors,  shading  through  lilac,  light  pink,  mauve,  magenta; 
Elizabeth  Campbell,  salmon  pink  with  red  eye;  Thor,  some- 
what similar  but  darker  color;  Gefion,  peach  pink;  W.  C. 
Egan,  a  newer  sort  and  one  of  the  best  both  in  vigor  and 
color, — lilac  with  bright  center — and  with  immense  in- 
dividual flowers;  Bridesmaid,  white  with  crimson  eye; 
Mme.  Paul  Dutrie,  soft  lilac  rose,  extra  large  flowers  and 
panicles;  Rynstrom,  carmine  rose;  La  Vague,  pure  mauve. 
These  are  all  splendid  varieties  but  can  be  bought  very  rea- 
sonably, from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  cents  each,  or  in  collec- 
tions at  an  average  of  little  over  the  former  figure.  Your 
order  for  phloxes  should  also  include  some  of  the  Arendsi 
type;  this  new  race  is  entirely  distinct, — of  very  vigorous, 
branching  habit,  only  one  to  two  feet  high,  coming  into 
bloom  between  the  early  flowering  tall  sorts  and  those  de- 
scribed above,  and  are  more  free-flowering  than  any  others. 
The  late  blooming  phloxes  will  not  be  ready  for  re-setting 
until  well  into  October,  and  may  be  set  from  then  until 


244      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

November;  18"  apart  is  the  proper  distance  for  most  vari- 
eties, and  the  taller  or  stronger  growing  can  be  given  a  little 
more.  The  old  clumps  should  be  cut  up  into  separate 
pieces,  containing  several  shoots  only,  using  an  edger  or  a 
very  sharp  spade.  Do  not  be  tempted  to  keep  more  plants 
than  you  have  room  for,  even  though  you  have  to  throw 
some  away, — although  there  are  generally  friends  available 
who  would  be  very  glad  to  use  them  in  their  gardens. 

Planting  and  Replanting  Peonies 

Peonies  can  remain  longer  in  one  position  without  any 
necessity  for  replanting  than  most  of  the  perennials.  They 
are  very  hardy,  free  from  insects,  and  usually  from  disease. 
The  new  peony  disease  has  not  become  widespread  and  if 
the  plants  are  bought  from  a  nursery  where  one  is  sure  that 
they  are  healthy,  it  is  not  likely  to  cause  trouble.  The  plants 
are  not  particular  as  to  soil;  and  the  ordinary  garden  soil  in 
which  vegetables  or  flowers  do  well  is  all  right,  but  one 
should  be  selected  that  is  rather  heavy,  if  it  is  available. 

Although  the  flowering  season  is  usually  over  early  in  July, 
the  plants  continue  to  grow  for  some  time;  the  growth  should 
be  encouraged  as  it  stores  up  energy  in  the  fleshy  roots  for 
next  season,  in  the  same  way  as  rhubarb  or  asparagus;  but 
the  foliage  will  have  completed  its  growth  and  will  begin  to 
ripen  off  by  the  middle  of  September,  and  the  sooner  the 
plants  are  put  in  or  replanted  after  that  the  better.  As 
each  root,  although  it  may  seem  quite  small  when  put  in, 
will  make  a  very  large  clump  within  the  course  of  a  very  few 
years,  they  should  be  planted  from  two  to  three  feet  apart, 
and  nearly  that  distance  from  other  plants,  where  they  are 
set  in  the  hardy  border.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  set  out  some 
of  the  early,  flowering  spring  bulbs  near  them  in  the  border, 
as  these  are  gone  by  before  the  peonies  require  the  room. 
Care  should  be  taken  that  the  manure  used  is  old  and  does 
not  come  into  contact  with  the  fleshy  roots  when  setting 
the  plants  out.  Very  frequently  the  roots  are  set  too  deep. 
The  crown  of  the  root  after  covering  should  be  only  2  to 


SEPTEMBER:  FOURTH  WEEK  245 

2>^"  below  the  surface.  While  the  peonies  are  sufficiently 
hardy  to  require  no  protection,  the  mulch  which  is  applied 
to  the  mixed  border  will  do  no  injury.  And  for  the  first 
season  after  planting,  a  mulch  which  may  be  of  manure, 
is  advisable,  as  it  protects  the  soil  from  the  heaving  some- 
times produced  by  alternate  freezing  and  thawing.  The 
peony  is  one  of  the  grossest  feeders  of  all  the  garden  flowers 
and  the  soil  can  scarcely  be  made  too  rich  before  planting 
or  too  much  manure  or  fertilizer  used  thereafter. 

Twelve  of  the  best  varieties  are  Festiva  Maxima,  a  giant 
white;  Couronne  d'Or,  white  with  yellow  and  carmine; 
Duchesse  de  Nemours,  sulphur  white;  Modeste  Gurin,  bright 
rose  pink;  Marie  Lemoine,  sulphur  white,  late  blooming; 
Felix  Crousse,  brilliant  red;  Eugene  Verdier,  flesh  pink;  Del- 
icatissima,  delicate,  light  pink;  Mons.  Jules  Elie,  flesh  pink; 
Madame  Calot,  early  flowering  pink;  Mme.  de  Verneville, 
sulphur  white  with  white  center;  La  Tulipe,  very  large  flower 
shading  to  white;  and  M.  Krelage.  A  few  plants  also  of  the 
old  Peonia  Officialis  should  also  be  used  as  these  bloom  some 
two  weeks  earlier  than  the  varieties  named  above. 


The  Iridescent,  International  Iris 

One  of  the  best  old-fashioned  garden  flowers  was  the  iris, 
or  blue  flag,  or  fleur-de-lis.  The  clumps  of  blue  flags  in  the 
front  yards  of  old  farm  homes  always  give  a  fine  air  of  dis- 
tinction. 

These  old-fashioned  irises  were  mostly  of  the  type  known 
in  the  catalogues  as  German  iris.  There  are  literally  thou- 
sands of  varieties  on  the  market,  representing  the  newest 
and  best  fashions.  In  colors  they  show  almost  every  shade 
of  blue,  yellow  and  red,  with  some  pretty  fair  whites. 

The  blues  are  the  best  known  and  probably  the  most 
effective;  but  the  yellows  are  also  desirable.  The  reds  are 
not  so  popularly  distributed,  but  deserve  much  more 
general  planting.  They  run  mostly  toward  dull  brownish 
and  coppery  shades,  very  rich  and  pleasing. 

These  German  irises  thrive  in  any  good  garden  soil — 


246      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

say  a  soil  suited  to  potatoes  or  corn.  They  should  be 
planted  where  they  can  be  cultivated  and  where  they 
need  not  be  disturbed  for  several  years. 

The  Japanese  irises  when  properly  grown  are  larger  and 
finer  than  the  German  varieties.  In  color  they  are  mostly 
blue  or  white.  A  common  belief  assigns  them  to  swampy 
spots  along  the  shores  of  ponds,  but  this  is  hardly  correct. 
In  fact,  the  plants  will  not  live  in  a  soil  where  water  stands. 
The  soil  must  be  rich  and  moist  but  well  drained.  Fine 
Japanese  irises  may  be  grown  in  any  garden  where  the 
soil  is  reasonably  heavy  and  retentive. 

The  Iris,  like  the  phloxes,  must  be  carefully  selected  as  to 
species  in  order  to  get  the  longest  season  of  bloom  possible. 
By  a  proper  selection  they  can  be  had  from  early  spring  until 
past  midsummer;  the  two  most  widely  known  species  are 
the  German  Iris  and  the  Japanese  Iris, — /.  Germanica,  and 
/.  Kaempferi,  respectively;  the  former  bloom  the  earlier, 
beginning  to  flower  in  May.  A  new  species,  Iris  Interregna, 
blooms  still  earlier  and  the  flowers  are  of  fine  form  and 
of  clear  and  distinct  colors.  The  German  Iris  should  be 
planted  on  well-drained  soil,  the  roots  slightly  covered;  they 
appreciate  plenty  of  sun.  The  Japanese  Iris,  on  the  other 
hand,  while  succeeding  in  almost  any  soil,  and  in  either  sun 
or  partial  shade,  require  plenty  of  water,  particularly  while 
they  are  developing  their  flowers;  all  are  quite  readily  re- 
planted, but  the  Japanese  sorts  do  not  increase  rapidly. 
In  planning  for  a  succession  of  bloom,  either  in  the  mixed 
border,  or  in  the  iris  beds,  plants  of  the  following  species  will 
bloom  about  in  the  order  named.  /.  Pumila,  the  "baby" 
iris;  Asiatica  and  Florentines,  old  sorts,  smaller,  but  earlier 
flowering  than  the  new  German  sorts;  pumila  hybrida,  and 
interregna,  newer  species, — of  each  of  which  there  are  sev- 
eral good  varieties, — having  German  parentage,  but  bloom- 
ing earlier;  the  regular  German  type,  including  such  grand 
sorts  as  Madame  Cherau,  pure  white  with  sky-blue  edging, 
Pallida  Dalmatica,  lavender,  with  fall  petals  shaded  blue, 
and  very  fragrant,  Maori  King,  golden  yellow  with  choc- 
olate falls,  Queen  of  May,  old  rose,  Mrs.  H.  Darwin,  white 


SEPTEMBER:  FOURTH  WEEK  247 

with  violet  veining,  King  of  Iris,  yellow  and  brown,  extra 
fine;  the  Siberian  iris  (/.  Sibirica)  including  several  good 
sorts,  orientalis  being  the  earliest,  and  one  of  the  best,  and 
Snow  Queen,  a  new  ivory  white,  a  good  companion  to  it; 
the  Japanese  iris,  concluding  the  season's  bloom,  with  a  few 
stray  blooms  up  to  the  end  of  July,  the  grandest  of  all,  with 
the  widest  range  of  color  and  combinations,  but  the  varieties 
are  not  as  generally  known  by  name  because  their  Japanese 
nomenclature  means  little  to  American  gardeners,  and  the 
unregulated  re-naming  of  varieties  which  has  taken  place 
has  resulted  in  much  confusion,  so  that  the  most  satisfac- 
tory way  is  to  order  from  descriptions,  or,  where  it  is  pos- 
sible, personal  inspection. 

The  " Spanish"  and  "English"  irises  are  quite  distinct 
from  the  above,  and  usually  listed  as  "  bulbs." 


September:  Fifth  Week 

BULBS  FOR  WINTER  BLOOM:  NARCISSI,  HYA- 
CINTHS, AND  TULIPS  FOR  FORCING;  OTHER 
FLOWERING  BULBS;  CUTTINGS  TO  ROOT 
NOW 

Of  all  the  flowers  available  for  indoor  culture  in  the  winter 
window  garden,  bulbs  give  the  greatest  assurance  of  suc- 
cess with  the  least  trouble.  Their  requirements  are  the 
simplest;  they  are  perhaps  the  cheeriest  of  all  flowers; 
many  of  them  are  deliciously  fragrant;  their  cost  is  trifling; 
and  they  may  be  had  in  a  constant  succession  of  bloom 
throughout  the  winter  and  early  spring.  In  fact,  with  the 
proper  facilities  for  storing  them  after  planting,  practically 
all  the  work  for  a  whole  winter's  succession  of  flowers  can 
be  done  in  one  afternoon;  they  are  then  simply  taken  from 
their  winter  quarters  into  warmth  and  light  as  required, 
with  about  as  little  trouble  as  it  takes  to  get  the  day's 
supply  of  canned  vegetables  from  the  cellar  shelf. 

The  cultural  requirements  of  bulbs  for  winter  bloom, 
although  simple,  are  imperative.  They  may  be  mentioned 
in  order  as  follows:  Selection  of  suitable  varieties; 
purchase  of  healthy,  heavy  bulbs;  properly  mixed  soil; 
correct  planting;  development  of  root  growth  before  forcing; 
a  gradual  start  in  forcing;  and  congenial  conditions  of  light 
and  temperature  while  growing  and  blooming. 

A  great  variety  of  bulbs  are  forced  commercially,  some 
of  which  the  amateur  grower,  particularly  the  beginner, 
will  do  best  to  omit.  With  the  possible  exception  of  the 
lily-of-the-valley,  the  bulbs  which  the  commercial  grower 
can  force  have  no  advantages  over  those  available  for  the 
window  garden.  The  latter  include  hyacinths,  narcissi, 
tulips  of  some  varieties,  Easter  lilies,  freesias  and  gladioli. 

248 


SEPTEMBER:  FIFTH  WEEK  249 

Hyacinths  for  Forcing 

Some  of  the  best  varieties  of  hyacinths  for  forcing  are  La 
Grandesse,  and  L'Innocence,  and  Madame  Van  der  Hoop, 
(early)  all  pure  white.  Among  the  red  shades  are  Baron 
Van  Thuyll,  Gertrude,  Gigantea  and  Robert  Steiger; 
City  of  Harlem,  yellow,  and  King  of  the  Yellows;  and 
Czar  Peter  and  Grand  Maitre,  light  blue  and  deep  blue 
respectively,  and  Queen  of  the  Blues,  make  a  dozen  sorts, 
giving  a  good  range  of  color.  These  are  all  large  singles. 
The  double  sorts  may  be  forced,  but  usually  they  do  not  give 
as  satisfactory  results,  and  to  most  people,  are  not  nearly 
as  attractive  in  appearance  as  the  single  sorts.  A  hya- 
cinth at  best  is  a  stiff  and  artificial  looking  flower,  but  the 
double  varieties  are  even  more  so  than  the  single.  The 
Roman  hyacinths,  are  quite  distinct  from  any  of  the  above, 
and  much  more  graceful,  sending  up  many  stalks  from  a 
blub.  It  is  wonderfully  fragrant.  It  is  one  of  the  easiest 
of  all  bulbs  to  force  and  is  the  earliest,  flowering  by  Thanks- 
giving if  started  early  in  September.  It  may  be  had  in 
pale  pink  and  blue  shades  as  well  as  in  the  white,  but  the 
latter  is  the  universal  favorite. 


Narcissi  and  Tulips  for  Forcing 

Among  the  Narcissi,  the  two  that  are  the  best  known 
and  should  be  found  in  succession  throughout  the  winter 
in  every  window  garden,  are  Paper  White  and  the  Chinese 
Sacred  Lily;  both  are  too  well  known  to  need  description; 
the  latter  is  universally  grown  in  pebbles  and  water.  The 
Paper  White  is  usually  forced  in  soil  like  the  other  bulbs, 
but  will  give  equally  good  results  and  will  come  into  bloom 
much  sooner  when  treated  in  the  same  way  as  the  sacred 
lily.  Along  with  these  should  be  mentioned  the  new  Nar- 
cissus Poetaz  Hybrids.  This  beautiful  new  race  lends  it- 
self readily  to  forcing,  either  in  pots  or  in  pebbles.  Of  the 
"Trumpet"  sorts,  the  Trumpet  Major  is  one  of  the  surest 
and  earliest  and  may  be  had  in  flower  by  Christmas.  Hors- 


250      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

fieldii  is  another  of  the  best  and  earliest.  Others  good  for 
forcing  are  Princeps;  Glory  of  Leiden;  Emperor;  Golden 
Spur;  and  Victoria.  If  these  do  not  afford  a  sufficiently 
wide  range  of  form  and  color,  other  new  and  old  varieties 
may  be  drawn  upon. 

The  tulips  are  not  so  well  adapted  to  forcing  as  the  hy- 
acinths and  narcissi  but  may  be  used  with  success.  They 
are  so  decidedly  different  that,  unless  one  is  limited  in  the 
number  of  things  which  can  be  grown,  at  least  a  few  will 
repay  the  trouble  required.  Early  varieties  should  be 
selected,  such  as  the  Due  Van  Tholls,  in  various  colors, 
from  the  single  early  flowering  section,  and  Kaiser  Kroon, 
and  Murillo  from  the  double  flowering;  the  May  flowering 
sorts,  planted  at  the  same  time,  will  flower  a  little  later, 
and  the  Darwins  will  finish  up  the  succession  of  bloom  in 
March  and  April. 

Bulbs  should  always  be  purchased  only  from  a  thoroughly 
reliable  source.  Almost  always  for  forcing  purposes,  it  is  bet- 
ter to  pay  the  price  and  get  the  largest  there  are  to  be  had. 
These  are  usually  listed  as  Mammoth,  Jumbo  or  some  other 
super-superlative  term.  "  First  size"  bulbs  will  also  give 
results.  Very  often,  two  or  three  smaller  bulbs,  planted 
together,  will  be  very  much  more  effective  than  a  single 
large  one,  although  the  individual  flowers  may  not  be  quite 
so  big.  Hyacinths  cost  from  ten  to  twenty-five  cents  apiece ; 
Roman  hyacinths,  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  cents  a  dozen; 
narcissi  and  tulips,  from  twenty-five  to  seventy-five  cents  a 
dozen;  crocuses,  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  cents  per  dozen; 
freesias,  twenty-five  to  fifty  cents  a  dozen;  gladioli,  twenty- 
five  to  fifty  cents  a  dozen,  and  Easter  lilies,  ten  to  forty 
cents  apiece.  When  ordering,  it  is  well  to  specify  that  bulbs 
are  to  be  sent  as  soon  as  received.  Tulips,  and  hyacinths 
and  narcissi  which  are  wanted  for  early  flowering,  should  be 
started  as  soon  as  you  can  get  them.  Where  you  are  buy- 
ing the  bulbs  personally,  select  those  of  regular  form,  round 
and  plump.  If  there  is  any  choice  between  plumpness  and 
size,  the  former  will  usually  be  the  safer  bet.  Bulbs  which 
have  become  slightly  shrivelled  in  transportation,  may 


SEPTEMBER:  FIFTH  WEEK  251 

often  be  restored  to  good  condition  by  placing  them  in 
slightly  moist  sawdust  or  moss  in  a  shaded  place.  If  this 
does  not  seem  to  restore  them,  it  will  be  best  not  to  risk 
planting  them.  All  bulbs  which  are  to  be  kept  on  hand  for 
planting  later,  should  be  packed  in  sawdust  in  a  box  or 
wrapped  in  heavy  paper  away  from  the  light  and  high 
temperature. 


Soil  for  Forcing  Bulbs 

The  most  important  thing  about  the  soil  for  bulb  forcing 
is  to  have  it  friable  enough  to  drain  rapidly  and  thoroughly. 
A  mixture  of  garden  loam,  manure  so  old  that  it  is  thor- 
oughly disintegrated  (or  manure  and  leaf  mold  mixed  to- 
gether, if  only  ordinary  manure  is  to  be  had),  and  sand,  will 
give  the  results  sought.  The  two  former  may  be  mixed  half 
and  half,  and  enough  sand  be  added  so  that  it  will  crumble 
readily  when  moist.  There  will  be  little  danger  of  getting 
too  much  sand,  even  if  added  in  an  amount  equal  to  the 
soil.  In  case  neither  manure  or  leaf  mold  are  to  be  had, 
a  few  thick  sods  taken  up  by  the  roadside  and  then  shaved 
with  a  sharp  spade  or  an  old  knife,  mixed  with  sand  and 
enriched  with  fine,  ground  bone,  two  quarts  or  so  to  the 
bushel,  will  answer  the  purpose.  "  Humus  "  also  is  excellent. 

In  planting,  ordinary  flower  pots,  "bulb  pans,"  which  are 
very  shallow  flower  pots,  or  flats  may  be  used.  For  general 
purposes,  the  bulb  pans  are  the  most  satisfactory.  The  6" 
size  costs  about  seven  cents,  and  the  10"  about  twenty 
cents  apiece.  If  the  flowers  are  to  be  used  for  cutting,  or  to 
be  brought  into  a  conservatory,  the  flats,  which  may  be 
made  in  smaller  sizes  than  those  ordinarily  used,  are  more 
convenient,  as  they  hold  more  bulbs  and  do  not  dry  out 
so  quickly.  Bulbs  which  have  made  their  root  growth  in 
flats  may  be  later  planted  in  pots  to  be  taken  into  the  house, 
thus  economizing  space  during  the  preliminary  part  of  their 
growth. 

Whatever  is  used  in  the  way  of  a  container,  the  essen- 
tial things  in  plantings  are  to  see  that  good  drainage  is 


252      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

provided  and  that  the  bulbs  are  planted  to  a  suitable  depth 
for  the  kind  being  used.  Sphagnum  moss  (B)  excelsior,  or 
screenings  should  be  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  flat,  or  a 
few  pebbles  or  pieces  of  broken  flower  pot  (A)  put  in  the 

bottoms  of  the  pots  or  bulb  pans, 
before  planting.  Then  put  in  a 
layer  of  soil  (C),  on  top  of  this 
place  the  bulbs,  about  a  half  inch 
to  an  inch  and  a  half  apart.  After 
being  placed,  they  should  be  cov- 
ered in  firmly.  Hyacinths  should 
be  left  about  a  half  inch  below 
the  surface;  tulips  a  little  deeper, 
while  the  tops  of  the  narcissi 
which  are  more  elongated,  will 
often  come  up  to  the  surface  of  the  soil.  A  very  thorough 
watering  should  be  given  after  setting,  and  as  soon  as  any 
surplus  has  had  a  chance  to  drain  off,  the  flats,  pots  or 
pans  should  be  set  away  to  make  root  growth. 

The  Easter  lily,  unlike  the  other  bulbs,  forms  roots  on  the 
base  of  the  flower  stalk  as  well  as  at  the  bottom  of  the  bulb 
itself;  for  this  reason,  and  also  to  give  it  as  firm  a  support  as 
possible,  it  should  be  planted  well  to  the  bottom  of  the  pot 
and  only  partly  covered  at  first,  or  else  planted  in  a  small 
pot  and  repotted  again  once  or  twice  during  the  early 
stages  of  growth  into  larger  pots,  putting  it  well  at  the 
bottom  each  time,  and  filling  it  in  about  the  stalk  with  new 
earth. 

The  Secret  of  Success 

The  "secret  of  success"  with  bulb  culture,  so  far  as  there 
is  one,  is  in  getting  a  good,  strong  root  growth  before  the 
tops  are  allowed  to  start.  Darkness,  low  temperature  and 
sufficient  moisture  to  keep  the  soil  from  getting  dry  are 
the  conditions  required  to  achieve  this  result.  Freezing 
later  on,  before  they  are  taken  into  the  house,  will  not  hurt. 
But  for  convenience  in  getting  at  them  they  are  usually 
kept  in  a  cool  cellar  or  in  a  dark  closet,  or  in  a  cold-frame 


SEPTEMBER:  FIFTH  WEEK  253 

or  in  a  trench  covered  with  litter  and  leaves  enough  to 
prevent  hard  freezing. 

Before  putting  them  away,  every  pot  and  flat  should  be 
carefully  labelled.  Don't  trust  to  your  memory! 

If  no  cellar  is  available  and  you  have  not  a  cold-frame, 
dig  a  trench  or  a  square  with  dirt  sides  some  12"  to  18" 
deep,  but  large  enough  to  accommodate  your  flats  or 
pots  or  pans.  They  can  then  be  placed  in  this  in  just  the 
order  in  which  you  want  to  take  them  into  the  house, 
so  that  you  can  start  at  one  end  of  the  trench  and  remove 
them  in  order  as  required.  Dry  coal  ashes  make  an  ex- 
cellent covering,  or  soil  can  be  used.  Either  should  be 
about  8"  deep,  and  on  the  approach  of  freezing  weather, 
leaves  and  litter  enough  to  prevent  freezing  should  be 
placed  over  this.  Bulbs  stored  thus  will  need  no  further 
attention  until  time  to  bring  them  in.  If  they  are  kept  in  a 
cellar  or  in  a  closet  they  should  be  looked  at  occasionally 
and  watered  if  the  soil  gets  too  dry;  keeping  them  well 
covered  with  sphagnum  moss  will  retard  evaporation. 

The  most  prolific  source  of  failure  with  bulbs  is  in  start- 
ing the  tops  before  sufficient  root  growth  has  been  made. 
The  different  kinds,  and  even  the  different  varieties  of  the 
same  kind,  vary  considerably  in  the  time  required  for  root 
development  before  they  should  be  started.  As  a  general 
rule,  the  longer  they  can  be  held  back,  the  stronger  the 
root  development  and  the  better  flowers  will  be.  Roman 
hyacinths  and  other  early  things  that  are  wanted  in  bloom 
for  a  special  time,  such  as  Thanksgiving  or  Christmas,  can 
be  brought  in  after  six  or  eight  weeks.  But  tulips,  and  the 
later  varieties  of  hyacinths  and  narcissus,  will  do  better 
with  ten  or  twelve  weeks,  so  that  the  bulbs  planted  in  the 
latter  part  of  September  or  the  first  of  October  should  not 
be  taken  in  before  December. 

In  removing  the  bulbs  to  the  house,  they  should  at  first 
be  given  a  temperature  of  only  forty  to  fifty  degrees  and 
kept  in  a  somewhat  subdued  light, — some  room  that  is  not 
much  used,  with  a  north  window  being  an  ideal  place.  They 
should  be  given  a  thorough  watering  and  allowed  to  re- 


254      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

main  here  for  a  week  or  so  until  they  are  well  started.  Then 
give  them  more  heat  or  bring  them  into  a  warmer  room  so 
that  they  will  have  a  temperature  of  fifty  or  sixty,  and  more 
light;  but  full  sunlight  is  not  good  for  the  bulbs  except  for 
a  few  days  just  as  the  flowers  are  opening.  Under  the  right 
conditions,  the  top  growth  will  be  very  rapid  and  an  abun- 
dance of  water  will  be  required.  If  the  pots  seem  to  dry  out 
too  quickly,  it  will  be  well  to  keep  the  saucers  filled  with 
water.  Or  the  pots  may  be  set  in  larger  pots  or  pans  and 
wet  moss  stuffed  around  them.  A  high  temperature,  dry 
air,  or  coal  or  illuminating  gas,  will  prove  fatal,  blasting  the 
buds  even  before  they  open.  In  addition  to  plenty  of  water, 
a  watering  with  liquid  manure  or  nitrate  of  soda,  as  the 
buds  swell,  will  be  found  very  beneficial. 

Insects  are  not  likely  to  prove  troublesome,  but  if  they 
do,  they  should  be  treated  at  once.  Some  tobacco  dust 
sprinkled  about  the  soil  and  at  the  base  of  the  leaves  will 
prove  effective  as  a  preventive.  Plenty  of  fresh  air  should 
be  given  at  all  times, — the  more  the  better,  so  long  as  the 
plants  are  not  chilled.  When  the  blooms  do  open,  if  the 
plants  can  be  kept  in  a  cooler  temperature  in  a  somewhat 
subdued  light,  they  will  last  much  longer. 

Freesias  and  gladioli  can  be  planted  in  much  the  same  way 
as  the  bulbs  which  are  mentioned  above,  but  do  not  have 
to  make  preliminary  root  growth,  although  they  should  be 
kept  cool  for  a  few  weeks  after  planting. 

Cuttings  to  Root  Now 

Before  danger  of  the  first  killing  frost,  make  your  first 
supply  of  cuttings  of  geraniums,  heliotrope,  verbenas  and 
other  tender  perennials  or  annuals  of  which  you  will  want 
plants  for  stock  or  for  setting  out  early  next  spring.  The 
directions  as  to  how  to  make  and  root  the  cuttings  are 
given  elsewhere  in  this  book.  The  cuttings  can  be  rooted 
out  of  doors,  if  provision  is  made  to  give  ample  protec- 
tion against  the  first  hard  frosts,  which  are  almost  always 


SEPTEMBER:  FIFTH  WEEK  255 

followed  by  two  or  three  weeks  of  good  growing  weather. 
Place  the  flats  of  sand  in  which  the  cuttings  are  to  be  rooted 
where  they  can  be  shaded,  and  cover,  when  necessary, 
with  old  bags  or  rugs, — in  a  frame,  on  the  north  side  of  a 
building,  or  in  the  shade  of  the  veranda,  are  good  places. 
Water  the  sand  well  before  putting  in  the  cuttings,  and  then 
give  only  enough  to  keep  the  sand  thoroughly  moist,  not 
soaking  wet.  Pot  up  as  soon  as  the  roots  are  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  or  so  long. 


October:  First  Week 

HOT-BED  AND  COLD-FRAME  GARDENING: 
EQUIPMENT;  SOIL;  HEATING;  VARIETIES 
OF  VEGETABLES  FOR  FORCING 

The  "frames" — the  cold-frame  and  its  artificially  heated 
counterpart,  the  hot-bed — are  ordinarily  looked  upon  as  a 
garden  adjunct  the  main  purpose  of  which  is  to  get  plants 
started  a  month  or  two  earlier  in  the  spring,  so  that  certain 
crops  in  the  garden  may  be  forwarded  to  that  extent.  In 
this  case  the  sash  are  used  only  for  about  three  months  in 
the  year  and  lie  idle  for  the  rest  of  the  time.  But  where  one 
wishes  to  get  the  maximum  results  from  his  garden  space 
and  garden  equipment,  such  half-efficient  management 
should  be  changed,  as  the  frames  may  be  used  to  advantage 
for  seven  or  eight  months  in  the  year  instead  of  three.  This 
is  especially  desirable  where  the  garden  space  is  limited,  as 
it  is  in  the  great  majority  of  suburban  places;  and,  further- 
more, it  is  not  only  a  matter  of  having  more  garden  produce 
than  could  otherwise  be  grown,  but  of  having  it  at  a  season 
when  it  is  especially  valuable — such  things  as  lettuce, 
radishes,  green  onions,  and  spinach,  which  you  have  usually 
not  had  before  May  and  June,  during  the  winter  months; 
and  such  things  as  beans,  cucumbers,  muskmelons,  etc., 
which  ordinarily  you  do  not  have  until  well  along  toward 
the  end  of  the  season,  during  early  summer. 

In  planning  to  make  your  frames  a  really  important  part 
of  your  garden  operations,  two  things  must  be  provided 
first  of  all — soil  which  is  naturally  thoroughly  drained  and 
will  not  become  wet  and  soggy  through  the  winter  and  early 
spring  months,  and  an  abundance  of  water  to  use  in  dry 
weather  when  it  is  needed.  You  must  realize  at  the  outset 
that  cold-frame  gardening  is  a  highly  intensified  form  of 
gardening,  and  that  therefore  to  be  successful  with  it  you 

256 


OCTOBER:  FIRST  WEEK  257 

must  have  the  factors  for  success,  of  which  water  is,  of 
course,  a  vitally  important  one,  well  under  control.  At  the 
same  time,  it  is  just  as  well  for  you  to  realize  that  the  returns 
from  it  on  the  basis  of  the  amount  of  space  allotted  to  it 
will  be  much  higher  than  from  any  other  part  of  your  gar- 
den. For  instance,  outdoors  you  set  your  rows  of  lettuce 
twelve  to  fifteen  inches  apart  and  set  out  the  heads  or  thin 
them  to  about  twelve  inches.  In  the  cold-frames  fifty  heads 
are  set  to  a  space  three  by  six  feet  (eight  inches  each  way), 
from  which  space  outside  you  would  get  eighteen  or  twenty 
heads. 

Three  Kinds  of  Sash 

The  equipment  for  intensive  gardening  of  this  sort  is  a 
little  more  diversified,  but  on  the  whole  much  less  expensive 
than  ordinarily  supposed.  You  are  probably  familiar  with 
the  ordinary  cold-frame — a  box  or  frame  with  sides  of  wood 
covered  with  a  standard  glass  sash  (size  three  by  six  feet), 
and  provided  with  a  wooden  shutter  or  a  straw  mat  for 
covering  in  extreme  cold  weather.  The  equipment  which  I 
am  going  to  recommend  contains  sash  of  three  distinct 
sorts,  each  of  the  three  especially  valuable  for  its  special  use. 
In  the  first  place,  there  are  the  double  light  sash;  these  cost 
a  little  more  than  the  others,  for  they  are  made  with  a 
double  layer  of  glass  with  an  air  space  between  them  which, 
being  an  efficient  non-conductor,  answers  the  purpose  of  the 
mat  or  shutter  in  keeping  out  the  cold,  but  with  this  great 
advantage,  that  at  the  same  time  it  will  let  all  the  sunshine 
in.  The  double  light  sash  is  a  distinct  and  valuable  im- 
provement in  the  way  of  garden  equipment,  and  is  proving 
wonderfully  valuable  to  thousands  of  places.  But  it  is  when 
used  to  supplement  sash  of  the  ordinary  kind  rather  than 
to  take  the  place  of  them,  that  one  gets  the  greatest  amount 
of  service  from  them.  Because  with  the  double  light  sash, 
where  one  has  no  greenhouse,  seeds  may  be  sown  and  the 
plants  started  and  grown  to  a  size  large  enough  to  transplant 
to  the  frame  under  the  regular  sash  at  a  season  when,  under 
the  old  methods,  you  would  just  be  starting  them. 


258      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

The  standard  sash,  three  feet  by  six  in  size  (and  preferably 
having  three  instead  of  four  rows  of  glass,  as  more  light  is 
obtained)  does  not  need  any  description  here,  as  everyone 
is  familiar  with  it;  of  these,  one  should  have  two  or  three 
times  as  many  as  of  the  double  sash;  and  then  there  are  the 
sash  made  with  light  wooden  frames  and  covered  with  pro- 
tecting cloth;  these  are  not  nearly  so  well  known  nor  so 
largely  used  as  they  should  be,  but  they  will  keep  off  several 
degrees  of  frost  and  for  many  uses  will  answer  just  as  well, 
and  in  some  cases  even  better  than  glass:  and,  furthermore, 
in  severe  weather  they  can  be  used  in  the  place  of  mats  or 
shutters  over  the  glass  sash. 

The  frames  on  which  the  sash  are  supported  may  be  of 
inch  boards  and  two  by  four  inch  uprights  for  holding  these 
in  place;  the  usual  dimensions  are  two  feet  in  back  and  a 
foot  and  a  half  in  front,  which  gives  a  slope  sufficient  to 
carry  all  the  rain  water  off  the  sash,  and  also  catches  the 
sunlight  at  a  better  angle.  Frames  which  are  to  be  used  as 
hot-beds — that  is,  supplied  with  manure  to  give  artificial 
heat  in  cold  weather — should  be  made  a  foot  or  eighteen 
inches  deeper  on  the  inside.  While  the  board  frames  may 
be  banked  up  with  earth  on  the  outside,  so  as  to  be  imper- 
vious to  frost  and  cold  wind,  and,  if  substantially  made, 
will  last  for  a  number  of  years,  nevertheless,  it  is  far  better 
to  go  to  a  little  more  trouble  and  possibly  a  greater  expense, 
and  have  the  frames  made  of  concrete.  If  you  cannot  have 
them  all  made  this  way,  then  those  which  are  to  be  used  as  a 
hot-bed  at  least  should  be  so  constructed,  as  these  are  used 
for  more  months  in  the  year  and  the  rotting  caused  by  the 
manure  will  cause  them,  if  made  of  wood,  to  go  to  pieces  more 
quickly  than  the  ordinary  cold-frames.  A  sill  or  cap  of 
wood  or  iron — preferably  the  latter — may  be  bought  to  put 
on  top  of  the  concrete,  and  is  so  constructed  that  the  sash 
will  fit  firmly  on  it. 

The  Cost  of  Equipment 

The  amount  of  garden  stuff  which  can  you  get  out  of  a 
limited  space  which  is  taken  up  by  your  frames  is  truly  re- 


OCTOBER:  FIRST  WEEK  259 

markable;  not  only  because  the  planting  is  done  more 
closely  in  the  frames,  but  because  where  several  crops  may 
be  taken  from  it  each  season  you  would  get  one  or  two  from 
the  garden.  A  ten-sash  frame  used  in  connection  with  the 
regular  garden  would  give  an  ample  supply  of  winter  and 
early  spring  vegetables  to  a  good  sized  family,  besides  fur- 
nishing room  to  winter  over  such  things  as  might  be  re- 
quired and  an  ample  supply  of  plants  for  the  garden  in  the 
spring.  For  such  a  cold-frame  garden  a  convenient  division 
of  the  sash  would  be  as  follows:  Two  double  light  sash  cost- 
ing about  $7.00,  four  single  light  sash  costing  $10.00,  four 
cloth-covered  sash  costing  $2.00,  three  double-sized  burlap 
mats  costing  $3.00 — a  total  of  $22.00. 

In  addition  to  this,  the  lumber  for  the  frame  would  cost 
from  $5.00  to  $10.00,  depending  upon  the  price  per  thousand 
feet  in  your  vicinity.  The  cost  of  a  concrete  frame  in- 
stead of  a  wooden  one  would  depend  almost  entirely  upon 
the  price  you  would  have  to  pay  for  the  sand  and  gravel, 
as  the  amount  of  cement  used  would  not  be  very  great.  In 
most  instances,  unless  you  have  the  sand  and  gravel  on  your 
own  place,  the  cost  would  be  more  than  for  wood,  but  as 
has  already  been  stated,  it  would  be  much  cheaper  in  the 
end.  After  the  frame  is  put  up  two  partitions  should  be 
built  across  it,  to  divide  the  spaces  for  the  two  double-light 
sash,  the  four  single-light  sash,  and  the  cloth-covered  sash. 
If  the  frame  is  a  long  one  it  should  be  strengthened  by  cross- 
bars every  three  or  four  sashes  apart,  to  keep  the  side 
walls  from  warping  out  of  position;  or  they  may  be  put  in 
every  three  feet  even  with  the  sash  as  described  above. 
It  is  a  great  convenience,  however,  to  have  them  removable. 

Good  Varieties  for  Frame  Use 

It  is  time  to  begin  work  now  for  the  crops  you  will  want 
this  fall  and  this  winter.  The  first  step  in  this  direction 
is  the  selection  of  varieties  of  vegetables  which  are  good 
for  growing  in  frames,  as  the  use  of  the  wrong  sorts,  even 
with  other  conditions  all  favorable,  may  mean  failure  in- 


26o      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

stead  of  success.  In  lettuce  there  is  Grand  Rapids  for  the 
loose  heading  sort  and  Big  Boston  and  Wayahead,  both  of 
which  make  fine,  solid  crisp  heads  and  will  thrive  in  a  cool 
temperature.  For  your  first  attempt  it  will  be  best  to  try 
several  varieties,  so  that  you  can  tell  which  will  give  you  the 
best  results  under  the  conditions  which  you  have.  The 
Grand  Rapids,  grown  under  glass,  is  deliciously  tender,  and 
in  my  opinion  in  no  way  inferior  to  the  head  lettuces,  al- 
though the  latter  are,  of  course,  more  blanched  in  the  cen- 
ters. Of  radishes  there  are  a  number  of  good  sorts  for  using 
in  frames,  but  after  trying  a  number  of  varieties  I  now  use 
nothing  but  the  Crimson  Giant  Globe  and  the  White  Icicle. 
Both  these  varieties,  besides  being  of  good  size  and  quick 
to  mature,  have  the  further  great  advantage  of  remaining 
an  extraordinarily  long  time  without  growing  pithy,  so  that 
not  more  than  half  the  number  of  plantings  have  to  be  made 
as  with  such  sorts  as  the  old-fashioned  French  Breakfast. 
Of  cauliflowers,  both  Early  Snowball  and  Best  Extra  Early 
make  a  very  compact,  quick  growth,  and  are  early  maturing 
and  well  suited  to  growth  in  frames.  Either  Victoria  or 
Hardy  Winter  spinach  is  suitable  for  winter  growth  under 
glass,  and  the  former,  while  it  will  not  stand  quite  so  much 
cold,  is  of  better  quality.  Personally,  however,  I  prefer 
Swiss  chard,  which  will  give  you  repeated  cuttings,  and 
where  the  weather  is  not  too  severe  can  be  used  right  through 
the  winter  until  you  need  the  frame  for  other  purposes  in  the 
spring. 

Of  the  vegetables  suitable  for  fall  planting,  the  lettuce, 
cauliflower  and  parsley  should  be  started  early,  the  latter 
part  of  August  or  early  in  September,  and  transplanted  later 
to  the  frames.  The  radishes,  spinach  or  Swiss  chard  and 
also  onions  for  bunch  onions  early  in  the  spring,  and  carrots, 
if  you  prefer  to  use  some  of  your  cold-frame  space  to  have 
these  fresh  rather  than  to  depend  upon  those  stored  in  the 
cellar,  should  be  planted  where  they  are  to  grow,  but  the 
rows  may  be  made  and  the  beds  prepared  long  before  it  is 
necessary  to  use  the  glass  to  protect  them  from  cold  weather. 
If  you  put  them  in  about  the  same  time  that  you  sow  the 


PLATE  24. — Slatted  or  open  work  boxes  and  barrels  and  the  usual  tight  boxes 
and  barrels  for  storing  vegetables  and  fruit  for  winter.  All  of  the  containers 
shown  here  can  be  purchased  second  hand  at  any  grocery  store.  (Lower) 
Beets  and  carrots  packed  in  moist  sphagnum  moss  for  storing  for  winter. 
Moss  is  much  cleaner  and  lighter  than  sand,  and  is  especially  useful  where  one 
has  not  a  regular  cellar  in  which  to  store  winter  crops. 


OCTOBER:  FIRST  WEEK  261 

others  for  the  first  group  they  will  give  you  results  early  in 
the  winter. 

Soil  for  Frame  Gardening 

The  soil  in  the  frames  should  be  made  rich,  mellow  and 
deep  by  the  addition  of  well-rotted  manure  to  the  soil,  or  by 
filling  in,  unless  the  soil  that  is  in  the  frame  is  already  in  good 
condition,  with  several  inches  of  good  garden  soil.  The 
ground  should  be  soaked  thoroughly  at  least  several  hours 
before  planting,  and  it  is  advisable  to  have  some  method  of 
shading  the  seed  bed  until  after  the  plants  are  up,  in  case 
of  hot,  dry  weather.  An  excellent  way  of  doing  this  is  to 
use  one  or  two  of  the  frames  for  the  seed  bed.  Then  one  of 
the  cloth-covered  sash  may  be  put  over  this,  supported  on  a 
temporary  framework  a  foot  or  two  above  the  frame,  and 
furnishing  the  right  degree  of  shade  without  excluding  the 
air.  The  lettuce  and  cauliflower  should  be  transplanted 
once  before  being  set  in  their  permanent  positions,  giving 
the  little  seedlings  three  or  four  inches  space  each  way. 
The  soil  for  radishes  should  not  be  very  rich,  and  especially 
should  it  be  free  from  stable  manure  and  supplied  with 
plenty  of  lime  or  plaster,  otherwise  there  will  be  excessive 
leaf  growths  with  small  and  poor  quality  roots. 

As  already  stated,  the  hot-bed  is  different  from  the  cold- 
frame  (which  depends  for  its  heat  upon  the  retention  of  the 
warmth  from  the  sun's  rays),  in  being  heated  artificially, 
either  by  fermenting  manure  or,  in  rare  instances,  by  hot 
water  or  steam  pipes.  Now,  while  your  earliest  crop  of 
lettuce  or  cauliflower  can  go  directly  into  the  cold-frames 
and  mature  there,  the  crop  which  is  to  follow  that,  and 
which  will  be  ready  about  Christmas  time,  will  in  most 
localities  need  some  artificial  heat  to  carry  it  through. 
Therefore,  while  the  plants  are  growing,  make  preparations 
to  furnish  the  heat  as  follows: 

Preparing  the  "Heat"  for  a  Hot-bed 

Secure  a  supply  of  manure,  getting  that  from  a  livery 
stable,  if  possible.  This  should  be  in  good  condition  and 


262      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

not  "fire-fanged";  that  is,  not  burned  to  a  gray  ash  ap- 
pearance by  its  own  heat.  This  should  be  composted  with 
litter  or  leaves,  putting  in  about  a  third  in  bulk  of  the 
latter  material.  Pile  up  the  whole  in  a  square  heap  and 
give  it  a  thorough  wetting,  and  after  about  three  or  four 
days  fork  it  over,  at  the  same  time  turning  it  "inside  out," 
or  putting  what  was  outside  into  the  middle  when  you 
repack  it.  For  best  results  this  operation  should  be  re- 
peated three  or  four  times,  after  tramping  it  down  firmly 
each  time.  Half  a  cord  of  manure  will  be  enough  for  two 
or  three  sashes,  as  it  should  be  packed  in  from  one  to  two 
feet  deep,  according  to  the  severity  of  the  climate  and 
the  vegetables  to  be  grown  on  it,  and  be  covered  with  four 
or,  still  better,  six  inches  of  soil.  This  manure,  of  course, 
after  it  is  used  in  the  hot-beds  will  be  as  good  as  any  other 
for  use  on  your  garden  or  to  enrich  the  cold-frames  next 
spring.  The  manure  should  be  put  in  the  frames  a  few  days 
before  you  want  to  use  it,  and  its  gradual  fermentation  will 
then  continue  to  give  off  heat  for  a  long  period. 

After  setting  the  plants  in  their  frames  in  their  perma- 
nent position  they  will  require  no  care  except  an  occasional 
watering  to  keep  the  soil  in  good,  moist  condition,  and  the 
going  over  the  bed  with  the  hand  weeder  to  keep  the  soil  in 
good,  loose  condition.  As  cold  weather  approaches,  how- 
ever, it  will  be  necessary  to  put  the  sash  on,  and  then  your 
real  work  begins,  first  because  you  have  got  to  attend  strictly 
to  seeing  that  they  get  proper  ventilation,  and,  furthermore, 
the  moisture  from  rain  being  cut  off,  you  will  have  to  be  more 
careful  about  the  watering.  There  is  only  one  rule  about 
ventilation — give  all  the  fresh  air  you  possibly  can  while 
maintaining  the  proper  temperature.  On  bright  days  strip 
the  sash  off  altogether,  and  in  rainy  weather  when  it  is  not 
too  cold.  The  two  greatest  troubles  with  lettuce  under 
glass  are  the  green  lice  (aphids)  and  rot.  The  former  may 
be  taken  care  of  by  spreading  tobacco  stems  or  tobacco  dust 
about  the  bed  under  the  leaves  of  the  plants,  and  if  this  does 
not  keep  them  away,  at  the  very  first  sign  of  one,  spray 
thoroughly  with  "  Aphine, "  "  Black  Leaf  40"  or  some  other 


OCTOBER:  FIRST  WEEK  263 

nicotine  preparation.  Rot  is  caused  by  too  close  a  tempera- 
ture or  by  water  lodging  in  the  axles  of  the  leaves;  there- 
fore aim  to  be  careful  about  giving  proper  ventilation, 
and  in  watering  see  that  the  soil  only  is  wet,  keeping  the 
water  off  the  leaves  as  much  as  possible.  For  this  reason 
also  it  is  a  good  plan  to  water  only  in  the  early  morning, 
so  that  the  sunlight  will  have  a  chance  to  dry  off  the  sur- 
face before  night. 


October:  Second  Week 

PLANTING  BULBS  FOR  NEXT  YEAR'S  BLOOM: 
PROPAGATING  ROSES 

One  of  the  most  important  fall  planting  jobs  is  to  get 
the  spring-flowering  bulbs  into  the  ground  in  good  season. 
The  Dutch  or  French  gardener  who  grew  the  bulb  has  made 
of  it  what  is  practically  a  finished  product;  the  flower  is 
already  formed  inside,  in  miniature,  and  requires  only 
congenial  surroundings  to  bring  it  to  perfection. 

Bulbs  will  bloom  the  first  year  in  almost  any  soil,  provided 
they  are  not  kept  wet  enough  to  rot.  The  roots  of  most 
varieties  will  stand  an  abundance  of  moisture  below  the 
t/ulb — can,  in  fact,  be  flowered  in  plain  water,  provided  the 
bulb  itself  is  held  above  the  surface.  But  even  the  first 
season's  bloom  will  be  better  in  soil  that  is  properly  pre- 
pared, and  in  poor  soil  the  bulbs  will  soon  peter  out,  the 
blossoms  becoming  fewer  and  smaller  each  year. 

In  congenial  soils  many  sorts  may  be  naturalized  and  will 
bloom  indefinitely  without  further  attention.  Others  will 
continue  to  give  good  results  as  long  as  they  are  taken  up 
every  second  or  third  year,  when  the  bulbs  have  become  so 
numerous  as  to  crowd,  and  replanted.  Most  bulbs  prefer 
a  soil  that  is  sandy  in  texture — in  fact,  the  sandier  the  better, 
provided  it  is  not  too  poor.  Manure  may  be  used  to  en- 
rich the  bulb  border  or  bed,  but  other  materials  give  as 
good  results  and  are  safer.  A  mixture  of  bone  meal  and 
ashes,  with  soot  added  if  it  is  obtainable,  may  be  used  gen- 
erously as  a  top-dressing,  worked  into  the  bed  before  the 
bulbs  are  planted.  If  the  soil  is  lacking  in  humus  it  may  be 
advisable  to  employ  manure,  but  only  that  which  is  thor- 
oughly rotted;  and  it  should  be  trenched,  or  stamped  into 
the  bottom  of  each  furrow  so  it  will  be  well  below  the  bulbs 
when  they  are  planted.  Direct  contact  of  the  manure  with 

264 


OCTOBER:  SECOND  WEEK  265 

the  bulbs  is  likely  to  cause  injury  from  rotting  or  disease. 
If  possible  it  is  always  well  to  plant  in  soil  in  which  bulbs, 
particularly  those  of  the  same  kind,  have  not  been  grown 
recently. 

Perfect  Drainage  is  Essential 

But  no  matter  how  rich  and  otherwise  good  the  soil  may 
be,  perfect  drainage  is  essential.  There  is  little  danger  of 
being  overthorough  in  this  matter,  because  in  the  fall,  when 
the  root  system  is  being  developed,  and  in  the  spring,  when 
the  flowers  are  being  produced,  there  is  likely  to  be  abun- 
dant rainfall.  Bulbs  can  often  be  used  successfully  where 
other  flowers  would  fail  on  account  of  midsummer  droughts. 
In  heavy  soil,  which  naturally  holds  a  great  deal  of  water  in 
fall  or  spring,  the  bed  should  either  be  raised  a  foot  or  so 
above  the  general  level,  with  sod  edges,  or  drained  by  put- 
ting a  layer  of  coal  ashes  or  other  coarse  material,  six  inches 
or  so  in  depth,  a  foot  below  the  surface. 

The  beds  should  be  well  rounded  up  and  made  several 
weeks  before  planting.  The  soil  will  usually  settle  two  or 
three  inches,  but  it  should  be,  after  settling,  high  enough 
so  that  no  surface  water  can  collect  on  it  from  winter  rain 
or  melting  snow  when  the  ground  is  frozen. 

All  these  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  the  fall  in  order  to 
get  a  good  root  growth  before  freezing  weather.  The 
narcissuses,  daffodils  and  jonquils  should  be  planted  three 
to  four  inches  deep  to  the  tops  of  the  bulbs,  and  put  in  as 
soon  as  received. 

Hyacinths  should  be  put  in  three  to  five  inches  deep, 
in  sandy  soil,  and  it  is  better  to  use  no  manure  in  the  beds. 
They  should  be  planted  about  the  time  the  maple  leaves 
are  beginning  to  change  color. 

The  Darwin  and  other  large  late  tulips  should  be  put 
four  to  six  inches  deep,  and  the  early  flowering  sorts  three 
to  five  inches  deep.  The  tulips  may  be  left  until  the  last 
to  be  planted — any  time  within  two  or  three  weeks  after 
the  leaves  fall,  or  five  or  six  weeks  before  hard  freezing 
weather. 


266      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

The  crocuses,  bulbous  irises,  and  other  small  bulbs  should 
be  planted  when  received.  In  very  light  soil  planting  should 
be  an  inch  or  so  deeper  than  the  figures  given  above:  in 
grass  or  sod  slightly  shallower  planting  will  usually  do,  as 
they  are  more  protected  than  in  the  open  ground. 

While  most  of  the  bulbs  do  well  in  any  kind  of  soil,  for 
the  best  success  it  should  be  made  rich;  you  should  not, 
however,  use  fresh  manure  for  this  purpose,  as  portions  of 
it  are  quite  sure  to  come  in  contact  with  the  bulbs  and 
injure  them.  Bone  meal,  prepared  sheep  manure  or  very 
thoroughly  rotted  and  fine  stable  manure  may  be  used,  or 
nothing  at  all  added  if  the  ground  is  in  fairly  good  shape 
from  manuring  of  previous  plantings. 

While  the  bulbs  may  be  set  any  time  until  the  ground 
freezes,  the  best  results  are  to  be  had  if  they  are  planted 
immediately  after  the  first  hard,  killing  frost,  as  this  gives 
them  a  longer  period  in  which  to  take  root  growth  in  the  fall 
before  the  ground  is  frozen  so  hard  that  all  growth  stops. 
If  put  in  too  early,  however,  they  will  make  some  top 
growth,  which  should  be  avoided.  If  you  have  not  yet 
ordered  your  bulbs  for  this  year  you  should  send  in  your 
order  immediately.  Get  the  bulb  bed  or  border  ready  now, 
and  plant  as  soon  as  you  receive  the  bulbs  from  the  seeds- 
man. 

How  Deep  to  Plant  Bulbs 

As  to  the  depth  at  which  they  should  be  planted,  place 
them  down  far  enough,  being  sure  to  get  them  right  side 
up,  so  that  the  top  of  the  bulb  is  about  one  and  one-half 
times  as  far  below  the  surface  as  the  bulb  is  thick  through. 
This  will  give  a  depth  of  from  three  to  four  inches  for  the 
average  size  hyacinth  and  two  to  five  inches  for  tulips,  and 
two  to  four  inches  for  the  various  sized  narcissi.  Where 
bulbs  are  naturalized  in  a  sod  they  need  not  be  put  in  quite 
so  deep,  as  the  sod  and  grass  form  part  of  the  covering  and 
also  form  some  protection  from  freezing. 

In  planting  in  the  beds  first  lay  out  all  the  bulbs  with  their 
proper  tags,  to  be  sure  of  getting  them  evenly  distributed 


OCTOBER:  SECOND  WEEK  267 

and  correctly  placed.  If  they  are  to  be  put  in  quite  thickly, 
as  in  using  hyacinths  in  designs  in  solid  beds,  it  will  some- 
times save  time  and  insure  perfect  results  to  excavate  the 
whole  bed  to  the  depth  of  several  inches,  put  the  bulbs  in 
place,  and  cover.  When  several  sorts  are  to  be  used  in  the 
same  bed,  planted  at  different  depths,  the  same  method 
may  be  used,  starting  with  those  to  be  planted  deepest  and 
covering  a  layer  at  a  time. 

Usually  the  quickest  method  of  planting  is  with  a  blunt 
dibble,  marked  plainly  from  two  to  ten  inches,  so  that 
you  can  tell  just  how  deep  you  are  making  the  holes.  A 
pail  of  coarse  sand  should  also  be  at  hand,  and  a  handful 
or  so  placed  in  the  bottom  of  each  hole;  this  protects  the 
bulb,  insures  good  drainage  directly  under  it,  and  prevents 
it  from  resting  over  an  empty  air-space  left  by  the  point  of 
the  dibble. 

The  Bulbous  Irises 

The  Spanish  irises  seem  to  be  less  known  than  either 
the  Germans  or  the  Japs,  but  they  deserve  wide  popularity. 
They  may  be  grown  easily  almost  anywhere.  Moreover, 
they  are  the  cheapest  of  all  irises,  the  bulbs  usually  costing 
only  a  few  cents  a  hundred.  They  are  more  delicate  in 
form  and  coloring  than  any  of  the  popular  sorts. 

All  the  common  forms  of  iris  should  be  transplanted  in 
summer.  Handling  at  the  usual  spring-gardening  season 
is  a  direct  injury  and  involves  the  loss  of  at  least  one  year. 
At  any  time  after  the  blossoms  fall  the  plants  may  be  lifted 
and  divided  and  the  separated  root  stocks  put  out  wher- 
ever they  are  wanted.  This  highly  important  fact  with 
respect  to  the  time  to  transplant  irises  seems  to  be  widely 
overlooked. 

Exception  must  be  made,  however,  in  the  case  of  the 
Spanish  irises.  These  grow  from  bulbs  like  tulips  or  cro- 
cuses. The  bulbs  are  grown  extensively  in  Holland  and  are 
brought  to  this  country  every  fall  along  with  the  other 
bulbs,  arriving  in  September.  They  should  be  planted  out 
at  once.  They  will  make  a  splendid  display  the  following 


268      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

spring,  and  in  favoring  soils  will  continue  to  grow  and  bloom 
for  several  years.  Those  who  have  never  tried  the  Spanish 
irises  should  do  so  this  fall. 

In  planting  lay  out  carefully  all  the  bulbs  first  on  the 
surface  of  the  soil  and  then  plant  them.  Or,  if  several 
different  sorts  are  to  be  put  in  one  bed,  you  can  remove  part 
of  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  plant  them  in  layers,  putting 
in  first  those  that  grow,  say,  four  inches  deep,  covering 
them  with  an  inch  of  soil,  then  putting  in  the  three-inch 
depth  ones,  covering  another  inch,  and  then  the  two-inch 
deep  ones. 

As  well  as  the  bulbs  which  have  been  mentioned  in  detail 
in  the  preceding  paragraphs  there  are  a  number  of  others 
valuable  for  fall  planting  for  spring  flowers,  particularly 
where  the  longest  possible  succession  of  flowers  is  wanted — 
snowdrops,  scillas  and  chionodoxas — all  of  which  are  suit- 
able for  naturalizing  in  the  grass  and  are  the  first  to  come 
into  bloom.  These  are  followed  by  the  crocuses,  and  these, 
in  turn,  by  the  hyacinths,  tulips  and  narcissi,  with  the 
hardy  lilies  completing  the  programme  and  carrying  the 
succession  of  flowers  in  the  garden  from  early  April  through 
July  into  August. 

All  fall-planted  bulbs,  except  those  naturalized  in  sod, 
should  be  protected  with  a  winter  mulch.  Leaves  or  straw 
should  be  used;  manure,  which  is  excellent  for  most  pur- 
poses, should  be  avoided.  The  mulch  should  not  be  applied 
until  after  a  week  or  so  of  continuous  cold  weather  has 
frozen  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

Prepare  Hardwood  Rose  Cuttings  to  Root  Next  Winter 

It  is  not  a  difficult  matter  to  increase  your  supply  of 
garden  roses  from  rooted  cuttings.  To  grow  plants  by 
this  method  take  cuttings  of  the  current  season's  wood 
at  the  end  of  the  growing  season,  allowing  three  eyes  or 
buds  to  each  cutting.  Tie  each  variety  in  a  bundle  and 
bury  outdoors  until  midwinter.  Then  strike  them  in  moist 
sand  in  flats  three  inches  deep.  Be  sure  to  get  the  lower  bud 


OCTOBER:  SECOND  WEEK  269 

on  the  cutting — the  one  nearest  the  main  stem — in  the  sand 
about  an  inch  and  have  the  sand  fit  tightly  about  it,  or  air 
will  get  in  and  prevent  proper  callusing  and  rooting.  The 
two  buds  above  the  sand  should  send  out  shoots. 

In  about  twenty-five  days  they  should  be  rooted  enough 
to  pot  into  two-inch  pots,  in  loose,  loamy  soil,  and  put  into 
heat  and  moist  air.  After  the  cuttings  are  struck  water 
them  only  early  in  the  morning,  so  the  top  of  the  sand  will 
dry  before  night,  or  they  may  be  attacked  with  a  fungous 
disease  known  as  cutting-bed  fungus,  for  which  there  is  no 
cure.  When  the  two-inch  pots  are  filled  with  roots  change 
the  plants  to  four-inch  ones  or  set  them  at  once  in  the 
borders  where  they  are  to  remain. 


October:  Third  Week 

SAVING  THE  SEASON'S  PRODUCE:  HARVESTING 
AND  STORING  VEGETABLES  AND  FRUITS 

In  harvesting,  as  in  planting,  the  various  crops  may  be 
considered  in  two  general  groups — the  hardy  and  the  tender. 
The  small  grower  may  not  be  able  to  have  storage  facilities 
especially  designed  to  accommodate  special  crops,  but  he 
can  provide  suitable  quarters  by  the  use  of  a  little  ingenuity. 
A  good  dry,  cool,  tight  cellar  is  of  the  greatest  value  for 
storage  purposes,  but  even  where  such  is  not  available, 
substitutes  may  be  found.  Among  the  tender  crops  which 
will  need  attention  first,  are  the  following: 

SQUASHES,  PUMPKINS,  MELONS  and  CUCUMBERS  should  be 
gathered  before  danger  of  first  killing  frost.  Usually  a  light 
"touch"  that  blackens  the  foliage  will  come  first  as  a  re- 
minder, but  if  it  is  getting  late  in  the  season,  do  not  wait  for 
this  warning.  The  muskmelons  and  cucumbers  may  be  cut 
where  the  stem  joins  the  vine,  but  the  squashes,  pumpkins 
and  watermelons  should  be  cut  with  an  inch  or  so  of  vine 
on  each  side  of  the  stem,  which  should  never  be  broken  off. 

Brush  the  soil  from  under  the  side,  and  turn  them  bottom 
side  up  to  dry  thoroughly.  Handle  them  always  as  if  they 
were  eggs.  Even  though  the  rind  may  seem  quite  hard  it 
bruises  very  easily,  and  a  bruise  that  cannot  be  seen  at  all 
when  it  is  made  will  develop  later  into  a  decayed  spot  that 
will  spread  rapidly  over  the  whole  fruit  and  possibly  spoil 
those  next  to  it.  The  drier  the  air  the  better  (an  ideal  place 
being  in  a  room  with  a  furnace  or  stove),  but  the  temper- 
ature should  be  kept  as  near  forty  degrees  as  possible. 
Don't  discard  the  small  immature  squashes  gathered:  these 
are  the  best  to  keep,  and  often  may  be  had  in  good  condition 
for  the  table  after  the  larger  ones  have  been  used.  Melons 

270 


OCTOBER:  THIRD  WEEK  271 

and  cucumbers  may  be  stored  in  straw  or  leaves  in  a  dark 
cool  place,  and  used  up  as  they  ripen. 

BEANS.  All  the  pole  beans  and  most  of  the  bush  beans  are 
good  for  winter  use,  gathered  as  soon  as  the  pods  dry,  even 
if  there  is  no  danger  of  frost.  If  the  work  has  to  be  done  in 
a  hurry,  the  plants  may  be  pulled  and  hung  up  under  cover 
where  they  will  dry. 

TOMATOES.  The  first  hard  frost  usually  doubles  the  price 
of  tomatoes.  All  the  fruits  on  the  vines  should  be  gathered 
when  the  first  hard  frost  threatens.  The  more  mature  will 
ripen  up  gradually  for  some  time  to  come,  and  the  green 
ones  are  usually  in  good  demand  for  pickling.  A  few  plants 
may  be  taken  up  and  hung  upside  down  in  a  shed  or  dry 
cellar,  letting  the  fruit  ripen  on  the  vines,  which  it  will  con- 
tinue to  do  for  a  surprisingly  long  time.  Some  of  the  best 
of  the  green  fruits  placed  in  clean  straw  in  a  dry  cold  part 
of  the  cellar  or  storehouse  or  in  a  frame  will  often  ripen  for 
Thanksgiving  and  even  later. 

OKRA.  The  plants  may  be  cut  and  the  pods  allowed  to 
dry,  and  saved  for  use  in  soups  or  for  flavoring. 

SWEET  POTATOES  should  be  dug  as  soon  as  the  tops  are 
killed,  dried  thoroughly,  and  then  stored  in  open  crates  in 
the  attic  near  a  chimney,  or  in  some  similar  spot  where  they 
can  be  kept  as  dry  and  as  warm  as  possible. 

EGGPLANTS  and  PEPPERS,  though  usually  not  injured  by 
the  first  light  frosts  that  blacken  the  leaves,  should  be 
gathered  before  danger  of  frosts  that  would  blister  the 
fruits,  and  kept  in  the  same  way  as  suggested  for  melons  and 
cucumbers. 

SWEET  CORN.  When  frost  threatens,  cut  stalks  and  all, 
just  as  for  field  corn.  It  may  be  "  shocked  "  in  the  same 
way,  and  the  ears  will  remain  in  good  condition  much  longer 
than  if  pulled  from  the  stalks. 

FRUITS.  In  picking  the  tree  fruits  too  much  care  cannot 
be  taken  to  prevent  the  slightest  bruising.  A  bruise  so 
slight  as  to  be  invisible  at  the  time  will  develop  into  a  de- 
cayed spot  later.  Only  the  soundest  and  greenest  should  be 
stored  away.  Barrels,  or  cracker  boxes,  which  hold  prac- 


272      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

tically  a  bushel  each,  make  good  containers.  The  latter  for 
home  use  are  more  convenient.  Pears  should  be  stored  in  a 
dark,  cool,  well-ventilated  place.  The  rapidity  with  which 
they  ripen  will  depend  to  a  large  extent  upon  the  temper- 
ature. For  long  keeping  it  should  be  kept  as  near  thirty- 
two  as  possible. 

Late  Crops  for  Winter  Storing 

While  a  number  of  the  late  crops  are  handled  in  much  the 
same  way,  three  of  the  most  important  of  them, — potatoes, 
onions,  and  celery, — require  individual  methods  of  treat- 
ment. 

POTATOES  for  storing  should  not  be  dug  until  they 
are  thoroughly  matured  as  indicated  by  both  the  firmness  of 
the  skin  and  the  cooking  qualities.  Dead  vines  are  not  a 
sure  guide,  as  they  may  dry  up  prematurely  from  drought, 
blight  or  frost.  In  cases  where  it  is  due  to  blight  the  tubers 
in  the  soil  will  begin  to  rot,  and  should  be  left  until  all  that 
are  going  to  spoil  have  done  so.  Otherwise  they  will  rot 
after  digging.  The  tubers  should  be  left  in  the  sun  long 
enough  to  get  thoroughly  dried  off,  but  not  to  sun-burn,  as 
this  spoils  the  table  quality. 

ONIONS.  Success  in  keeping  onions  will  depend  very 
largely  upon  the  care  given  in  harvesting.  After  the  tops 
dry  down  they  should  be  pulled  and  laid  in  rows,  and  turned 
every  day  until  they  are  thoroughly  dried.  Then  they 
should  be  brought  under  cover — cutting  off  the  tops  or  not, 
as  conditions  permit — where  the  air  may  circulate  freely 
about  them  in  all  directions.  Spread  them  out  thin  on  the 
floor  or  pack  them  in  slatted  bushel  crates.  The  white 
varieties  must  be  cured  under  cover  or  they  will  turn  green, 
and  if  they  get  a  ghost  of  a  chance  begin  to  sprout  again 
immediately.  No  onions,  after  the  tops  die,  should  be  left 
in  the  ground.  Before  hard  freezing  weather  they  should  be 
sorted  over  again  and  the  soundest  and  driest  stored  for 
long  keeping,  the  others  being  put  aside  for  more  immediate 
use. 


OCTOBER:  THIRD  WEEK  273 

CELERY.  Such  celery  as  is  wanted  for  early  use  is  blanched 
in  the  field  by  drawing  the  earth  up  to  the  stalks  in  two  or 
three  successive  hoeings;  by  the  use  of  boards;  or  by  the 
use  of  one  of  the  convenient  " celery  bleachers"  now  on 
the  market.  The  latter  are  especially  useful  for  the  home 
garden,  where  only  a  few  stalks  are  wanted  at  a  time.  The 
stalks  should  be  blanched  clear  up  to  the  foliage.  That 
part  of  the  crop  wanted  for  winter  and  spring  use  should 
have  the  soil  worked  in  about  the  stalks  sufficiently  to 
hold  them  in  an  upright  position.  Upon  the  approach 
of  hard  frosts,  about  November  first,  part  of  it  may  be 
"  trenched,"  or  blanched  in  a  long  narrow  ditch,  dug  in 
some  well-drained  convenient  position.  It  should  be 
about  a  foot  wide  and  deep  enough  to  take  the  celery  plants, 
standing  on  end  as  they  grew,  with  the  tips  of  the  foliage 
about  level  with  the  soil  surface.  It  should  be  taken  up, 
roots  and  all,  and  packed  in  close  in  the  trench.  As  hard 
freezing  weather  approaches  the  tops  should  be  covered 
with  meadow  hay  and  boards  to  prevent  freezing.  This  will 
keep  in  good  condition  until  the  advent  of  real  winter 
weather. 

The  part  of  the  crop  wanted  for  winter  and  early  spring 
use  should  be  taken  up,  before  hard  frosts,  and  stored  in  long 
narrow  boxes  about  a  foot  wide  and  deep  enough  to  take  the 
plants  upright,  packed  in  snugly  together.  As  in  trenching, 
the  roots  should  be  left  on,  and  a  couple  of  inches  of  moist 
sand  should  be  put  in  the  bottom  of  each  box.  These  boxes 
may  then  be  packed  in  a  cold  dark  cellar,  and  the  stalks  will 
blanch  out  by  the  time  they  are  needed.  Boxes  of  the  re- 
quired shape  and  size  may  readily  be  made  from  plain  pine 
boards,  with  a  row  of  small  holes  bored  in  the  ends  of  each 
to  serve  as  handles.  Celery  should  be  handled  or  stored 
only  when  it  is  perfectly  dry. 

BEETS,  CARROTS,  and  TURNIPS  and  RADISHES  will  not 
be  injured  by  the  first  light  frosts.  PARSNIPS  and  SALSIFY 
(or  oyster  plant)  may  be  left  in  the  ground  all  winter,  with- 
out injury,  but  of  course  the  bulk  of  these  crops  should  be 
taken  up,  as  once  the  ground  freezes,  it  is  next  to  impossible 


274      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

to  get  the  roots  out  until  spring.  All  these  root  crops  should 
be  gathered  and  "  topped,"  being  careful  not  to  cut  too  close, 
causing  the  roots  to  bleed,  and  stored  temporarily  in  piles 
so  that  they  may  be  covered  at  night  if  there  is  danger  of 
freezing.  To  keep  well  for  a  long  period  they  should  not 
only  be  stored  in  a  dark  cold  place,  where  the  temperature 
may  be  kept  well  down  toward  the  freezing  point,  but 
should  be  packed  in  sand  or  moss.  The  only  objection  to 
the  former  material  is  its  great  weight.  Sphagnum  or  swamp 
moss  may  be  gathered  free  in  most  places,  or  a  few  bushels 
bought  from  a  local  florist.  It  is  clean,  and  light,  and  stays, 
moist  without  being  wet,  for  a  long  time,  making  an  ideal 
packing  for  the  root  crops. 

CABBAGE.  A  small  quantity  may  be  kept  in  a  storeroom 
if  it  is  cool  and  dark.  A  good  way  is  to  tie  several  heads 
together,  first  removing  the  outside  leaves,  by  the  roots,  and 
suspend  from  a  nail.  Where  any  amount  is  to  be  saved, 
however,  it  is  usually  "pitted."  A  common  method  is  to 
simply  dig  a  trench  wide  enough  to  take  two  heads  side  by 
side,  and  deep  enough  so  that  when  another  head  is  placed 
on  top,  the  roots  will  come  about  level  with  the  surface  of 
the  soil.  Cabbages  should  not  be  trenched  or  pitted  until 
cold  weather,  and  as  hard  freezing  weather  sets  in  should  be 
gradually  covered  up  with  meadow  hay,  corn  stalks  or  other 
mulching  sufficiently  deep  to  prevent  their  freezing  hard. 
Those  to  be  kept  over  winter,  through  very  hard  freezing, 
should  have  a  layer  of  earth  over  the  mulch,  and  a  second 
layer  of  mulch  over  this.  The  trench  may  be  lined  with 
hay,  straw,  or  boards  to  make  more  certain  of  keeping  the 
contents  dry  and  clean.  BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  and  KALE  may 
be  left  where  they  grow,  as  they  are  perfectly  hardy. 

LETTUCE  will  stand  more  or  less  cold  weather,  and  may  be 
had  for  several  weeks  later  than  usual  by  simply  covering 
it  with  bog  hay  to  protect  it  from  the  first  frosts,  after 
which  we  frequently  have  two  or  three  weeks  of  good  grow- 
ing weather.  Small  plants,  which  were  started  in  August 
or  September,  may  be  transplanted  to  the  cold-frames  in 
October,  where  by  the  use  of  double  sash,  they  may  be 


PLATE  26. — Rose  bush  protected  by  pine  boughs  tied  in  position  with  tarred 
string.  (Lower)  Chicken  wire  border  to  hold  mulch  in  place  for  a  hardy  border 
or  a  rose  bed. 


OCTOBER:  THIRD  WEEK  275 

had  through   most  of   the  winter,  even  in   quite  severe 
climates. 

PARSLEY  should  be  cut  back  severely,  a  few  roots  taken 
up  and  put  in  pots  or  a  small  box,  with  drainage  holes  in  the 
bottom,  and  after  being  allowed  to  root  for  a  week  or  so  in 
a  cool  shaded  place,  may  be  kept  throughout  the  winter  in 
any  light  place  where  the  temperature  does  not  go  below 
forty  at  night. 

Substitutes  for  Cellars 

If  a  furnace  is  used,  a  double  partition  should  separate  it 
from  the  part  of  the  cellar  used  for  storing  the  vegetables. 
Where  the  cellar  is  only  one  large  room  such  a  partition  may 
be  cheaply  and  quickly  put  up  with  "wallboard,"  which 
comes  in  large  sheets  and  is  very  easy  to  use.  Where  no 
cellar  is  available  a  room  on  the  north  side  of  the  house, 
which  may  be  kept  dark  and  cool  but  safe  from  freezing  on 
cold  nights,  may  be  utilized  to  advantage.  Root  crops  may 
be  stored  in  a  pit,  like  cabbage. 

All  fruits  and  vegetables  should  be  clean,  dry  and  sound 
when  stored,  and  the  storage  room  and  boxes  and  barrels 
kept  perfectly  clean.  Cellars  should  be  whitewashed  every 
fall.  Ventilation  is  also  very  important.  Until  freezing 
weather  ventilation  should  be  given  on  cold  nights,  and  shut 
off  during  warm  days,  the  aim  being  to  keep  the  temper- 
ature as  constant  as  possible — about  35  degrees  F.  being 
right  for  most  vegetables.  Where  any  amount  of  things  are 
to  be  stored  it  will  pay  well  to  get  a  few  each  of  the  following: 
sugar  or  flour  barrels;  clean  cracker  boxes;  slatted  crates; 
slat  vegetable  barrels;  and  peach  baskets,  which  are  handy 
for  small  amounts. 


October:  Fourth  Week 

FRESH  VEGETABLES  ALL  WINTER:  PLAN  TO 
KEEP  THE  SMALL  GREENHOUSE  BUSY  WITH 
SUCCESSION  CROPS  UNTIL  SPRING 

At  least  some  of  the  fresh  vegetables  which  winter  gar- 
dening makes  possible  should  be  enjoyed  by  every  possessor 
of  a  greenhouse,  no  matter  how  small  it  is.  Anyone  whose 
gardening  experience  has  been  confined  wholly  to  crops  out- 
of-doors  will  be  surprised  at  the  very  small  amount  of  space 
required  to  furnish  the  average  home  table  with  such  fresh 
vegetables  as  are  usually  forced  during  the  winter  months. 
Take  lettuce,  for  instance:  in  the  garden,  under  what  you 
consider  intensive  cultivation,  you  plant  it  12  inches  apart 
each  way — 144  square  inches  to  a  plant.  Under  glass,  it 
can  be  grown  as  close  together  as  6  inches  each  way  for  the 
loose  leaf  kind,  and  7x7  inches  for  the  heading  sort — 36  and 
49  square  inches,  respectively!  At  the  former  distance,  on 
a  bench  space  only  3x6  feet,  seventy-two  heads  can  be 
grown.  True,  for  commercial  purposes,  these  distances  are 
usually  increased  an  inch  each  way;  but,  where  the  crop  is 
to  be  used  for  the  home  table,  and  where  every  other  head 
can  be  taken  out,  before  they  are  quite  matured,  the  dis- 
tances named  are  ample. 

I  have  grown  tomatoes  successfully  as  close  together  as 
1 8  inches  each  way;  and  in  a  small  greenhouse,  where  many 
flowers  are  grown,  and  where  space  is  not  available  for 
tomatoes,  I  have  seen  them  grown  successfully  in  wooden 
boxes  about  15  inches  square  and  8  deep,  which  were  placed 
upon  the  floor  in  positions  where  the  vines  could  be  trained 
up.  In  both  cases  they  were,  of  course,  trained  to  a  single 
stalk  and  a  great  deal  of  the  foliage  removed.  Cucumbers 
may  be  handled  in  much  the  same  way.  Where  forced 
commercially,  they  are  usually  given  at  least  8  feet  of  head 

276 


OCTOBER:  FOURTH  WEEK  277 

room,  but  it  is  possible  to  grow  them  on  a  side  bench  within 
two  feet  or  so  of  the  glass,  the  vines  being  trained  on  heavy 
string  or  wires  run  some  6  inches  below  the  glass  and  sup- 
ported from  the  sash  bars.  Half  a  dozen  vines,  with  good 
results,  will  yield  a  generous  supply  of  cucumbers  at  a  time 
when  a  single  one  is  prized. 

Radishes  mature  so  quickly  where  they  are  given  ideal 
conditions  that  they  may  be  used  as  a  "catch"  crop  be- 
tween other  vegetables,  or  a  short  piece  of  row  2  or  3  feet 
long  sown  every  week — the  rows  need  be  only  4  to  6  inches 
apart — will  keep  the  table  supplied  with  delicious,  crisp 
roots. 

Varieties  for  Under  Glass  Gardening 

In  achieving  success  with  vegetable  forcing  in  winter, 
nothing  is  more- important  than  the  selection  of  suitable 
varieties.  The  loose  leaf  type  will  do  better  than  the  head 
lettuces,  and  for  winter  use,  nothing  is  superior  to  Grand 
Rapids.  It  not  only  takes  less  room  than  a  heading  sort, 
but  matures  in  a  shorter  time,  can  be  eaten  at  any  and  every 
stage  of  development  and  is  the  healthiest  and  easiest  to 
grow  of  any  lettuce  I  have  ever  tried  under  glass.  If, 
however,  you  must  have  a  head  lettuce,  there  is  none 
superior  in  quality  to  the  little  Mignonette,  and  it  can  be 
planted  as  close  together  as  6  or  7  inches.  Other  sorts  that 
can  be  used,  however,  are  Hitinger's  Belmont,  Hothouse, 
Boston  Market,  and  Big  Boston,  the  last  thriving  well  in  a 
cooler  temperature  than  that  required  for  the  other  sorts, 
except  Grand  Rapids. 

Of  radishes  which  can  be  grown  in  the  same  temperature 
as  lettuce,  Rapid  Red  is  one  of  the  earliest  and  best  of  the 
small  or  button  type.  Personally,  however,  I  prefer  Crim- 
son Giant,  a  sort  which,  while  it  does  not  mature  as  early 
as  many  others,  is  large  enough  to  eat  as  soon  as  any  of  them 
and  retains  its  good  quality  until  it  attains  large  size. 
Comet  is  a  good  tomato  for  inside  use;  the  fruits,  while  not 
as  large  as  those  grown  outside,  are  specially  pleasing  in 
appearance  and  are  superior  in  quality.  Bonnie  Best  and 


278      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Chalk's  Early  Jewel  I  have  also  grown  successfully  inside. 
The  English  forcing  varieties  of  tomato  are  especially  fine. 
Of  cucumbers,  Davis's  Perfect  and  Vickery's  Forcing  are 
both  excellent  kinds.  Telegraph  and  Sion  House  are  proved 
varieties  of  the  English  cucumbers,  which  grow  to  a  much 
greater  length  than  the  American  sorts  and  are  generally 
considered  to  be  of  much  superior  quality.  Of  beets,  Early 
Model,  Eclipse,  and  Crosby's  Egyptian  are  good  for  forcing, 
but  the  latter,  although  it  is  still  a  favorite  variety,  I  do  not 
consider  equal  in  quality  to  the  others.  Among  carrots, 
Early  Scarlet  Horn,  French  Forcing  and  Nantes  are  good. 
If  growing  only  one  variety,  I  should  plant  the  latter  as  some 
of  the  roots  will  be  ready  to  use  almost  as  early  as  some  of 
the  other  sorts,  and  those  remaining  as  the  rows  are  thinned 
out  for  use  will  continue  to  grow.  If  you  want  to  try  beans, 
grow  a  first  quality  early  sort,  such  as  Early  Bountiful. 

After  settling  the  question  of  varieties,  there  are,  of 
course,  the  details  of  temperature,  ventilation,  fertilization 
and  so  forth,  which  have  to  be  looked  after  with  each  of  the 
several  crops  that  have  been  mentioned. 

Lettuce  All  Winter 

As  I  have  already  said  the  loose-leaved  lettuce  is  more 
certain  to  give  satisfactory  results  under  glass  than  the 
heading  sorts.  There  is,  however,  no  reason  why  you 
should  not  succeed  with  the  latter  if  you  like  it  enough  bet- 
ter to  pay  for  the  extra  care  required.  Greater  care  in  water- 
ing will  be  necessary,  especially  after  the  heads  begin  to 
form.  It  is  best  to  apply  the  water  to  the  soil  only,  and  to 
water  on  bright  days,  so  that  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  any 
parts  of  the  foliage  which  have  become  wet  may  be  dried 
off  before  night.  During  the  larger  part  of  the  development 
of  the  plant  a  temperature  of  45  to  50  degrees  at  night 
should  be  maintained,  but  just  after  setting  the  plants  in 
the  bed  and  while  the  heads  are  forming  about  5  degrees 
less  than  that  will  be  safer.  Both  Grand  Rapids  and  Big 
Boston  will  do  well  with  a  temperature  of  40  to  50  degrees 


OCTOBER:  FOURTH  WEEK  279 

throughout  their  growth.  For  quick  results  with  lettuce 
now  you  should  buy  plants  from  some  neighboring  florist  or 
market  gardener,  or  they  may  be  had  by  mail  at  very  slight 
expense.  The  plants  are  transplanted  once  before  being 
set  where  they  are  to  mature,  thus  securing  a  saving  of 
space  during  more  than  half  their  period  of  growth.  A 
small  flat  of  seeds  or  a  couple  of  feet  of  drill  along  the  edge 
of  a  bench  planted  now  will  give  you  enough  plants  to  follow 
up  the  crop  which  you  set  out  at  this  time. 

Cucumbers  and  Tomatoes  Follow  Lettuce 

December  and  January  are  the  months  in  which  cucum- 
bers and  tomatoes  are  generally  sown,  so  they  can  be  used  to 
follow  the  lettuce  when  the  strengthening  sunshine  and  the 
warmer  nights  makes  it  more  feasible  to  maintain  the  60  or 
70  degrees  at  night  and  the  80  to  90  degrees  during  the  day 
required  for  the  best  development  of  the  plants.  If  the 
greenhouse  is  so  small  that  there  is  no  separate  warm  section 
in  which  these  things  can  be  started  and  brought  on  until 
space  is  available  in  which  they  may  be  set  out,  a  small 
frame  on  the  order  of  a  cold-frame  may  be  used  in  the  house 
so  that  the  temperature  in  it  may  be  carried  a  few  degrees 
higher  than  in  the  rest  of  the  house. 

The  tomatoes  are  started  in  the  usual  way,  but  at  the 
transplanting  after  the  first  (or  at  the  first  if  the  seed  is 
sown  very  thinly  so  that  extra  strong,  large  seedlings  may 
be  attained)  the  young  plants  may  be  put  into  three  or 
four-inch  pots,  and  after  they  have  filled  these,  which  will 
be  in  the  course  of  two  or  three  weeks  if  the  conditions  are 
right,  they  may  be  shifted  into  a  size  larger  if  bench  room 
is  not  yet  available  for  setting  them  out.  An  abundance 
of  well-rotted  manure  and  a  little  fine  bone  meal  should  be 
mixed  with  the  potting  soil.  If  paper  pots  instead  of  clay 
are  used,  it  will  be  a  much  easier  task  to  keep  them  from 
drying  out.  As  cucumbers  are  difficult  to  transplant  unless 
one  has  had  experience  with  them,  it  is  best  to  start  a  few 
seeds,  not  more  than  four  or  five,  in  each  of  the  required 


280      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

number  of  paper  pots,  and  after  these  are  well  up,  thin  them 
out  to  not  more  than  two.  They  should  be  given  plenty  of 
light  and  kept  as  near  the  glass  as  possible  so  that  they  will 
not  become  drawn  and  weak.  A  rich  compost  with  a  layer 
of  fine  manure  at  the  bottom,  if  used  in  the  pots,  will  give 
the  plants  a  strong  start  in  the  few  weeks'  time  they  have 
to  get  ready  for  their  permanent  position. 

When  the  plants  are  ready  to  be  set,  and  a  solid  bed  and 
manure  that  is  still  actively  fermenting — such  as  you  would 
use  for  a  hot-bed — are  available,  a  narrow  trench  with  the 
manure  packed  in  tight  at  the  bottom  under  the  plants  will 
give  them  an  extra  start  after  transplanting.  Where  this 
method  is  not  practicable,  make  a  generous  hole  for  each 
plant,  enriching  it  well  with  either  fine,  short  manure  or  a 
good  handful  of  a  mixture  of  cotton-seed  meal,  bone-dust 
and  dried-blood  or  tankage.  Keep  the  plants  carefully 
shaded  for  a  few  days  after  setting  them  out.  Under  these 
congenial  conditions,  both  tomatoes  and  cucumbers  will 
make  a  very  rapid  growth.  Training  should  be  attended  to 
carefully  and  constantly.  All  side  shoots  should  be  re- 
moved from  the  tomatoes  as  soon  as  they  are  big  enough  to 
pinch  out  and  a  large  part  of  the  foliage,  where  it  interlaces 
or  shades  the  young  fruit,  may  be  cut  out  with  advantage. 

For  radishes,  beets,  and  carrots  the  soil  should  not  be 
made  too  rich,  especially  in  nitrogen,  as  this  has  a  tendency 
to  produce  rank  growth  of  top  and  an  inferior  quality  of 
roots.  I  have  found  that  a  liberal  dressing  of  unleached 
wood  ashes  gives  especially  good  results  with  these,  and  a 
single  pailful  of  ashes  goes  quite  a  way  in  the  greenhouse. 
All  of  these  things  will  do  well  with  a  temperature  the  same 
as  that  given  lettuce.  The  radishes  may  be  sown  in  rows 
very  thinly  from  4  to  6  inches  apart  and  the  beets  and 
carrots  from  10  to  12  inches.  The  beets  are  generally  trans- 
planted the  same  way  as  lettuce  except  that  they  are  set 
only  3  or  4  inches  apart,  but  they  may  be  grown  directly 
from  seed  if  there  is  space  enough  for  them.  You  can  grow  a 
row  of  radishes  between  the  rows  of  beets  and  carrots. 


OCTOBER:  FOURTH  WEEK  281 


Ventilation  and  Watering 

In  growing  vegetables  under  glass,  there  are  a  number  of 
things  to  be  attended  to  that  one  ordinarily  pays  no  atten- 
tion to  out-of-doors.  One  of  the  most  important  of  these  is 
fresh  air.  This  is  essential  not  only  for  keeping  the  plants 
in  vigorous  growth  but  it  is  practically  a  preventive  for 
troubles  with  insects  and  disease.  While  direct  draughts, 
especially  in  cold  weather,  should  be  avoided,  ventilation 
should  be  given  every  day  and  for  as  long  a  time  as  possible 
without  getting  the  temperature  of  the  house  too  low. 

While  plenty  of  moisture  is  essential,  the  beginner  is  more 
likely  to  do  damage  by  giving  too  much  of  it.  The  soil 
should  be  thoroughly  wet  just  before — or  just  after — setting 
out  the  plants.  After  that  water  should  be  given  only  as  the 
condition  of  the  soil  seems  to  indicate  that  water  is  needed. 
Water  as  seldom  as  possible,  but  water  thoroughly,  and  if 
possible  only  on  bright  days  so  that  the  foliage  and  the 
surface  of  the  soil  will  be  dried  off  by  evening.  While 
watering  once  in  several  days  will  be  sufficient  for  a  crop 
grown  at  a  low  temperature  in  midwinter,  cucumbers  and 
tomatoes  which  usually  are  making  their  greatest  develop- 
ment in  early  spring  when  the  sun  is  strong  enough  to  run 
the  house  up  to  80  or  90  degrees  on  bright  days,  often  require 
a  good  watering  every  day.  Frequent  cultivation,  whether 
any  weeds  appear  or  not,  is  just  as  essential  indoors  as 
out. 

Don't  Let  the  Bugs  Get  a  Start 

What  is  perhaps  the  most  important  point  of  all  I  men- 
tion last  for  the  sake  of  emphasis — that  is — never  let  a  bug 
appear,  or  if  he  does  appear,  never  let  him  live  24  hours. 
But  prevention  is  very  much  easier  and  quicker  than  any 
remedy.  Use  good  strong  tobacco  dust  freely  on  the  soil 
and  about  the  plant  and  if  necessary  on  the  foliage.  If  this  is 
attended  to,  further  trouble  will  seldom  be  experienced. 
The  green  plant  lice  or  aphids  and  the  white  fly  are  the 
things  most  likely  to  cause  trouble.  If  these  do  appear, 


282      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

spray  the  former  with  a  nicotine  extract  (which  may  be 
had  in  a  number  of  readily  available  forms  such  as  "Aphine  " 
and  "Black  Leaf  40"  to  be  used  after  simply  diluting  with 
water) ;  and  for  the  latter  use  fumigation  or  nicotine  extract 
for  the  matured  flies  and  kerosene  emulsion  for  the  young 
or  nymphs,  which  resemble,  and  must  be  treated  exactly 
as  if  they  were  scales.  Examine  your  plants  carefully 
at  least  once  every  week,  as  these,  like  other  insect  pests,  are 
inconspicuous  when  they  first  put  in  their  appearance  and 
keep  out  of  sight  until  they  have  mobilized  large  armies  of 
descendants. 


October:  Fifth  Week 

CONCRETE:  WHAT  YOU  CAN  DO  WITH  IT;  AND 
HOW  TO  USE  IT.  IRON  PIPE  FOR  MANY 
PURPOSES 

Exceptional  indeed  is  the  place  the  owner  of  which  cannot 
think  of  some  improvement,  or  some  dozen  improvements, 
that  he  would  like  to  see  made.  Walks,  culverts,  troughs, 
hitching-posts,  fence-posts,  fountains,  retaining  walls, 
hot-beds,  vegetable  pits,  steps,  foundations  and  supports 
for  buildings,  floors,  pergolas,  summer-houses,  hand-rails,  to 
say  nothing  of  more  elaborate  things,  such  as  ice-houses, 
root-cellars,  tanks,  and  so  forth,  are  all  within  his  reach 
when  he  has  at  his  disposal  concrete  and  iron  pipe.  Such 
jobs  may  be  undertaken  at  any  time  of  the  year  until 
free'  mg  weather. 

Ihe  use  of  concrete  is  simplicity  itself.  The  only  in- 
gredients required  are  Portland  cement,  clean,  medium- 
coarse  sand,  gravel,  and  water.  In  place  of  gravel,  clean 
cinders  or  crushed  stone  may  be  used.  Sometimes  it  is 
possible  to  get  gravel  that  is  mixed  with  sand  in  the  proper 
proportion  as  it  comes  from  the  bank.  Ordinarily,  however, 
it  should  be  screened,  so  that  the  sand  and  gravel  may  be 
measured  separately.  Having  the  ingredients  accurately 
proportioned  is  one  of  the  most  important  factors  in  achiev- 
ing successful  results  with  concrete,  and  requires  some 
attention. 

The  mixture  of  the  ingredients  is  based  on  the  principle 
of  having  the  particles  of  sand  of  sufficient  number  to  fill 
the  spaces  in  the  gravel  or  crushed  stone,  and  the  particles 
of  cement — which  is  ground  to  a  microscopic  fineness — fill 
the  minute  spaces  between  the  grains  of  sand.  After  such  a 
mixture  has  "set"  or  hardened,  the  result  is  a  monolithic 
compound  so  strong  that  if  it  is  broken  with  a  hammer  the 

283 


284      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

fracture  will  be  found  to  run  through  the  stones.  It  is 
practically  solid  rock. 

The  proportions  of  the  ingredients  are  varied  according 
to  the  nature  of  the  work  for  which  the  concrete  is  to  be 
used.  There  are  three  standard  formulas,  known  respec- 
tively as  "lean,"  "medium"  and  "rich"  mixtures.  The 
former  is  used  for  thick  retaining  walls,  floors,  sub-bases 
and  anywhere  where  bulk  and  weight,  rather  than  strength, 
are  required.  A  medium  mixture  is  used  for  ordinary  pur- 
poses, such  as  walks,  curbs,  steps,  walls,  etc.,  and  a  rich 
mixture  where  great  strength,  fine  finish  or  imperviousness 
to  moisture  are  needed,  such  as  for  more  elaborate  forms  of 
walls,  garden  furniture,  supporting  posts,  thin  walls,  etc. 
"Reinforced"  concrete  is  simply  concrete  with  some  mate- 
rial, usually  metal  in  the  shape  of  wires,  rods  or  woven-wire 
netting,  to  give  it  extra  strength  for  such  uses  as  complicated 
forms,  thin  walls,  floors,  and  anywhere  where  special  stress 
and  strain  may  be  encountered. 

The  proportions  for  these  several  mixtures  are  usually  as 
follows,  though,  of  course,  they  may  be  varied  after  one  has 
a  little  experience,  as  the  requirements  of  the  job  suggest: 

Lean  mixture:  One  part  cement;  three  parts  sand;  six 
parts  gravel. 

Medium  mixture:  One  cement;  two  and  one-half  sand; 
five  gravel. 

Rich  mixture:  One  cement;  two  sand;  four  gravel. 

Finishing  mixture:  Three  shovelsful  of  clean,  sharp  sand 
to  ten  pounds  of  cement. 

The  latter  mixture  is  used  for  finishing  off  curbs  and 
gutters,  surfacing  walks  or  walls,  etc.  It  should  always  be 
applied  before  the  first  form  has  set  hard. 

After  the  materials  are  got  together,  and  you  know 
exactly  what  you  want  to  construct,  the  forms  must  be 
prepared.  For  most  work  they  are  made  of  wood.  The 
"form"  is  simply  a  casing  to  hold  the  wet  cement  in  shape 
until  it  hardens.  For  any  job  that  requires  considerable 
'concrete,  the  forms  are  generally  made  in  sectional  units, 
which  can  be  used  over  and  over.  In  making  up  the  forms, 


OCTOBER:  FIFTH  WEEK  285 

two  things  are  necessary:  They  must  be  rigid;  any  "give," 
bulge  or  leak  will  leave  a  corresponding  defacement  on  the 
finished  job  that  cannot  be  rectified  afterward.  And  the 
"face"  of  the  form,  which  comes  next  to  the  wet  concrete, 
must  be  smooth;  any  crack  or  roughness  will  leave  a  corre- 
sponding mark  on  the  concrete,  or  the  form  may  stick  to 
the  concrete  so  that  it  will  have  to  be  broken  away,  thereby 
spoiling  the  job.  The  forms  are  kept  from  spreading  by 
bracing  on  the  outside  and  by  using  bolts  and  washers  at 
intervals  to  hold  them  together.  In  the  latter  case  these 
should  be  well  greased  before  the  concrete  is  poured  into 
the  forms,  and  removed  as  soon  as  the  concrete  takes  its 
initial  set — when  it  has  become  firm,  but  not  hard — so  that 
it  holds  its  own  shape.  For  very  smooth  surfaces  the  forms 
should  be  carefully  fitted  and  planed  and  oiled  before  each 
using.  Bolts,  braces,  rings,  studding  for  partitions,  or 
anything  of  that  nature,  may  be  put  in  place  and  the  con- 
crete made  around  them,  or  holes  or  slots  of  any  desired 
size  and  shape  may  be  made  by  putting  in  a  piece  of  wood 
made  smooth  and  well  greased  so  that  it  may  be  withdrawn 
after  the  concrete  is  partly  set.  Holes  can  be  filled  with  the 
' '  finishing  mixture. ' ' 

Mixing  and  Tamping  Concrete 

Having  the  forms  ready  and  the  materials  on  hand,  the 
job  of  mixing,  once  it  is  begun,  should  be  done  as  expedi- 
tiously  as  possible.  A  substantial,  smooth,  tight  platform  or 
a  shallow  box  of  suitable  size  should  be  provided.  On  or  in 
this  place  the  gravel,  sand  and  cement,  in  the  order  named, 
measuring  each  carefully.  With  a  shovel  or  hoe  mix  them, 
dry,  quite  thoroughly;  then  add  the  water  a  little  at  a  time, 
while  continuing  the  mixing,  until  you  get  a  uniform, 
slushy  mass  just  wet  enough  to  pour.  The  water  may  be 
added  in  quite  large  doses  at  first,  but  as  the  "batch"  ap- 
proaches the  proper  degree  of  slushiness  it  should  be  added 
sparingly.  A  mixture  that  is  too  wet  will  not  make  uniform 
material. 


286      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

As  soon  as  the  batch  is  mixed  it  should  be  placed  at 
once  in  the  forms,  using  for  the  purpose  a  shovel  or  cheap 
metal  pails,  if  it  has  to  be  carried.  It  should  be  tamped 
down  into  the  form  firmly  enough  to  prevent  air  spaces  be- 
ing left.  If  a  wall  is  being  made,  a  thin  paddle  of  wood 
or  iron  passed  along  either  side  next  to  the  form  will  leave 
a  smoother  surface,  as  the  larger  particles  of  gravel  or 
stone  are  pushed  back.  After  the  form  is  filled  it  should  be 
left  absolutely  undisturbed  until  it  has  set  hard — usually  at 
least  twenty-four  hours,  though  forty-eight  is  preferable. 
The  forms,  if  carefully  handled,  may  then  be  removed,  to 
use  again,  although  the  concrete  will  still  be  "green"  and 
easily  marred  or  broken.  If  made  where  it  will  be  subject 
to  weight  or  stress  when  the  forms  are  removed  the  con- 
crete should  be  left  to  harden  thoroughly  with  the  forms  in 
place.  If  there  is  danger  of  frosty  weather  cover  the  con- 
crete with  old  bags,  blankets,  or,  for  outside  work,  with 
warm  manure,  to  protect  it  from  freezing.  Be  careful 
to  mix  only  what  can  be  used  at  once  for  each  batch;  any 
surplus  must  be  thrown  away,  as  it  is  useless  after  it  begins 
to  harden.  Wash  up  clean  at  once  all  shovels,  hoes,  trowels, 
markers,  pails,  forms  or  mixing-bed,  etc.,  which  have  been 
in  contact  with  the  wet  concrete;  otherwise  you  will  find 
them  ruined  when  you  go  to  use  them  again. 

Concrete  Pots  and  Vases 

By  taking  advantage  of  ready-made  forms  a  great  num- 
ber of  difficult-looking  things  may  be  moulded  with  prac- 
tically no  trouble.  Large  concrete  pots  or  vases,  for  in- 
stance, are  easily  made  by  getting  lard-tubs  or  candy  pails 
of  such  size  that  one  will  fit  inside  the  other,  leaving  a  space 
of  an  inch  or  two  as  a  form,  and  imbedding  a  cork  or  wooden 
plug  in  the  concrete  bottom  (which  is  put  in  the  large  pail 
before  the  smaller  one  is  set  inside),  to  be  removed  for  a 
drainage  hole.  An  ordinary  cracker-box,  with  the  bottom 
removed,  makes  a  good  form  for  a  small  stepping  stone. 
Cylindrical  posts  or  supports  of  any  size,  or  rounded  cor- 


OCTOBER:  FIFTH  WEEK  287 

ners  for  walls,  may  readily  be  constructed  by  using  pieces  of 
sheet  iron  or  tin,  held  in  place  by  wire  or  nails  or  by  short 
stakes,  until  the  concrete  sets.  A  machine  may  be  pur- 
chased at  a  reasonable  figure  which  makes  hollow  concrete 
blocks.  They  may  be  made  a  few  at  a  time  and  kept  in- 
definitely. With  them  almost  any  sort  of  building  opera- 
tion may  be  undertaken. 

Iron  Pipe  for  Many  Purposes 

With  anything  but  the  very  simplest  kinds  of  work  it  is 
best  to  make  a  detailed  line  drawing,  with  exact  dimensions 
of  just  what  you  plan  to  construct.  Otherwise  you  will 
find  yourself  making  numerous  inaccuracies  and  mistakes. 
Very  often,  too,  it  is  possible  to  make  an  excavation  serve 
as  one  side  of  the  form.  In  making  a  cold-frame  or  a  root- 
pit  against  a  bank,  for  instance,  the  back  and  at  least  part 
of  the  two  ends  may  be  formed  by  digging  the  bank  down 
square  and  erecting  the  inner  form  several  inches  in  front  of 
this.  For  cold-frames  it  is  possible  to  buy  a  cast  iron  "  cap  " 
that  fits  over  the  concrete  wall  and  designed  especially  to 
make  a  good,  snug  fit  for  the  sash.  There  are  permanent 
wash  colors  also  made  especially  for  use  with  concrete,  with 
which  one  may  get  any  desired  "tone"  to  harmonize  with 
buildings  or  surroundings. 

Along  with  concrete,  one  should  learn  the  possibilities 
of  iron  pipe.  Common  water  or  gas  pipe  is  used,  and  for 
most  purposes  secondhand  pipe  will  answer  as  well  as  new. 
Embedded  in  concrete,  it  is  practically  everlasting.  It 
is  ideal  to  use  for  inexpensive  arches,  trellises,  supporting 
columns,  etc.  Formerly  it  was  necessary  to  have  a  set  of 
pipe-tools  to  fit  and  thread  the  pieces  into  their  various 
positions.  Now,  however,  one  may  get  "split  fittings"  to 
hold  the  pieces  of  pipe  together  wherever  nothing  is  to  be 
used  inside  of  them.  They  are  put  on  with  an  ordinary 
monkey  wrench;  a  short  bolt  which  passes  between  the  ends 
of  the  pipe,  or  double  bolts,  straddling  it,  being  used  to  hold 
the  fittings  in  place,  so  that  the  only  tool  necessary  is  a  pipe- 
cutter  or  a  hack-saw  to  cut  the  pipe  into  required  lengths. 


November:  First  Week 

MAKING  HOUSE  PLANTS  AT  HOME  FOR  THE 
WINTER:  THE  CONDITIONS  THAT  FAVOR 
HEALTHY  GROWTH;  THE  PROBLEM  OF  HEAT- 
ING. MATERIALS  FOR  NEXT  SPRING 

There  are  several  sources  from  which  plants  for  winter 
bloom  and  decorative  purposes  may  be  obtained.  Some 
may  have  been  saved  from  the  summer  garden,  others  may 
be  regular  "house  plants/'  kept  in  pots  the  year  round; 
still  others  may  have  been  bought  at  the  florist's  in  the  fall, 
either  especially  for  the  winter  window  garden,  or,  being 
new  and  expensive  varieties,  to  serve  as  "stock"  plants  to 
be  used  for  purpose  of  propagation.  But  whatever  their 
sources,  or  the  reason  for  keeping  them  over  winter,  they 
will  alike  demand  congenial  conditions  if  they  are  to  prove 
a  pleasure  and  a  success  instead  of  a  nuisance  and  a  failure. 
And  while  there  are  dozens  of  plants  which  may  be  grown 
with  at  least  a  fair  degree  of  success  in  the  ordinary  dwelling 
house,  they  all  demand,  with  comparatively  minor  differ- 
ences in  the  matters  of  light  and  temperature,  the  same 
general  conditions. 

In  establishing  a  congenial  environment  for  plants  in- 
doors there  are  of  course  four  chief  factors  to  be  considered — 
light,  temperature,  moisture,  and  soil. 

Give  Abundant  Light 

An  unstinted  supply  of  light  is  required  by  most  of  the 
plants  suited  for  house  culture;  during  the  winter  months 
very  few  of  them  can  be  given  too  much  even  of  direct 
sunlight.  Many  plants  will  for  a  time  tolerate  a  rather  dim 
light,  especially  if  they  are  in  a  semi-dormant  condition, 

288 


NOVEMBER:  FIRST  WEEK  289 

as  some  plants  are  at  this  period;  but  for  plants  which  it  is 
desired  to  keep  growing,  as  a  general  rule,  the  more  light  the 
better.  Without  sufficient  light,  they  will  fail  to  make 
strong,  normal  tissue,  although  growth  will  continue;  the 
stems  are  drawn  out  and  weak,  and  the  foliage  is  pale  and 
soft;  one  of  the  most  serious  results  is  that  the  whole  plant 
will  readily  fall  prey  to  the  first  attack  of  insects  or  disease, 
which  in  turn  are  usually  encouraged  by  just  the  condi- 
tions which  are  unfavorable  for  the  plant.  In  selecting 
quarters  for  your  winter  garden,  then,  procure  all  the  light 
possible.  And  for  flowering  plants,  such  as  geraniums, 
heliotropes,  and  begonias,  direct  sunshine,  for  at  least  part 
of  the  day,  is  quite  essential. 

What  is  the  Right  Temperature? 

There  are  few  dwelling  houses  in  these  days  where  the 
temperature  cannot  be  kept  sufficiently  high  in  at  least  the 
one  or  two  rooms  selected  for  the  window  garden  to  answer 
the  requirements  of  all  the  commoner  house  plants.  Great 
extremes  of  temperature  during  the  day  and  night  are  more 
likely  to  be  a  cause  of  trouble  than  too  low  a  temperature. 
During  the  day,  and  evening  when  the  rooms  are  occupied, 
and  while  the  sun  is  shining,  the  temperature  may  run  up 
to  70  or  80  degrees,  and  then  drop  during  the  night  to  40 
or  below:  such  a  range  of  temperature  is  trying  on  the  con- 
stitution of  any  plant,  especially  when  it  is  accompanied, 
as  is  most  apt  to  be  the  case,  by  a  desiccated  atmosphere. 
A  temperature  of  60  to  70  degrees  during  the  day,  and  50 
to  55  during  the  night,  will  be  sufficient  for  most  house 
plants,  though  a  few  degrees  more  will  not  be  harmful, 
and  a  few  degrees  less  will  not  prove  fatal,  but  simply  retard 
or  check  growth.  But  a  temperature  as  even  as  may  be 
given  is  highly  desirable.  The  fewer  variations  above  or 
below  these  figures  the  better.  In  extreme  weather  it  may 
not  be  possible  to  keep  the  temperature  from  going  down  to 
forty,  or  even  below;  this  need  not  prove  serious  unless  it  is 
repeated  so  frequently  that  the  plants  are  checked,  or  seem 


2QO      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

to  stand  still.  A  sudden  chill  may  cause  a  heliotrope, 
fuchsia,  or  lemon  verbena  to  drop  its  leaves,  without  in  the 
least  permanently  injuring  it.  Plants  that  are  quite  dry 
will  stand  colder  temperature  than  if  moist;  and  the  same 
is  true  if  they  are  partly  dormant  rather  than  in  active 
growth. 

The  plant  room  need  not  necessarily  be  proof  against  the 
very  coldest  winter  weather,  In  case  of  emergency  several 
thicknesses  of  newspaper  placed  just  inside  the  glass,  so  as  to 
form  a  dead  air  space,  will  keep  out  extra  severe  cold; 
and  if  this  is  not  enough  the  plants  can  be  huddled  about 
the  stove  or  radiator  for  a  night  or  two. 

Moisture  the  Most  Difficult  Problem 

The  matter  of  moisture,  which  at  first  glance  probably 
seems  the  factor  easiest  to  control,  is  the  most  difficult. 
When  " moisture"  is  spoken  of  in  this  connection,  most 
persons  assume  that  it  is  merely  the  watering  of  the  plants 
which  is  meant.  That  in  itself  is  not  as  simple  a  problem 
as  may  at  first  appear;  but  it  is  not  nearly  so  difficult 
as  the  greater  one  of  the  moisture  in  the  air,  which  directly 
affects  the  health  and  condition  of  the  plants.  A  dried- 
out  atmosphere  is  the  most  difficult  disadvantage  to  over- 
come in  growing  plants  in  the  house.  Houses  heated  by 
steam  and  hot  air  are  the  most  likely  to  be  objectionable 
in  this  respect.  If  plants  are  to  be  grown  successfully  under 
such  conditions,  provision  to  counteract  this  dry  atmosphere 
must  be  made.  Extra  care  in  the  matter  of  watering  will 
help  to  some  extent,  but  that  alone  is  not  sufficient.  Water 
kept  where  it  may  evaporate  freely,  and  thus  to'  some 
extent  re-saturate  the  dried-out  air  is  very  effective;  keep 
bowls  or  pans  of  water  on  the  radiators  or  registers — the 
number  of  times  you  find  it  necessary  to  replenish  them  will 
give  you  some  idea  of  the  amount  of  moisture  that  is  burned 
out  of  the  atmosphere  by  such  a  heating  system.  Another 
corrective  is  frequent  ventilation;  the  new  air  is  valuable  not 
only  for  the  fresh  supply  of  oxygen,  but  has  a  normal 


NOVEMBER:  FIRST  WEEK  291 

moisture  content.  As  a  general  rule,  give  all  the  fresh  air 
you  can,  while  keeping  the  temperature  sufficiently  high. 
The  arrangements  for  ventilation  should  be  such,  however, 
that  no  direct  draft  strikes  the  plants. 

In  regard  to  the  soil,  plants  which  have  been  freshly 
potted  in  the  fall  or  summer,  should  in  most  cases  have 
sufficient  nutriment  to  carry  them  through  the  winter. 
But  growing  plants,  which  may  require  repotting  before 
spring,  and  those  which  are  wanted  for  continuous  blooming, 
will  require  additional  plant  food  either  in  the  form  of  soil, 
or  in  concentrated  fertilizer  of  one  sort  or  another.  More- 
over, proper  watering  of  the  plants  in  pots, — as  the  great 
majority  of  house  plants  are  kept — requires  that  when  they 
are  watered  the  soil  be  thoroughly  saturated,  and  then 
allowed  to  drain  off  freely.  All  these  things  mean  more  or 
less  mussing  about,  and  can  be  done  better  where  provision 
for  just  this  work  has  been  made. 

Make  a  Place  Especially  for  Your  Plants 

Here,  then,  are  the  conditions  which  the  indoor  gardener 
has  to  establish  if  he  would  make  reasonably  certain  of 
success.  Needless  to  say,  there  are  few  houses  where  all 
of  them  may  be  had  at  their  best  without  some  special  pro- 
vision being  made  to  overcome  the  lack  of  some  one  desir- 
able thing  or  another.  In  the  great  majority  of  cases  it 
will  pay  and  pay  well  to  give  a  little  thought  and  time  to 
providing  a  place  for  your  plants  where  they  may  be  cared 
for  with  the  greatest  ease  and  under  the  most  favorable 
conditions.  In  selecting  or  constructing  such  a  place,  re- 
member your  objects  are  (i),  to  supply  an  abundance  of 
light;  (2)  to  control  the  temperature;  (3)  to  maintain  a 
normally  moist  atmosphere;  and  (4),  to  provide  a  place 
where  you  can  do  the  work  which  may  be  required  in  prop- 
erly tending  the  plants,  watering,  etc. 

Where  a  bay-window,  or  a  part  of  a  tightly  enclosed 
porch  that  may  be  heated,  is  available,  all  of  these  con- 
ditions may  be  supplied  with  little  trouble.  One  of  the  first 


292      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

tilings  to  do  is  to  arrange  things  so  that  the  space  to  be 
used  for  flowers, — great  or  small  as  the  case  may  be — may 
be  cut  ojf  from  the  rest  of  the  living-room  or  porch.  This 
partition  does  not  have  to  be  either  air-tight  or  permanent, 
but  the  tighter  the  better.  One  simple  plan  is  to  arrange 
fairly  heavy  curtains,  reaching  from  ceiling  to  floor,  which 
may  be  drawn  at  will  to  shut  the  plants  in  by  themselves. 
Light  doors,  made  largely  of  glass,  have  the  advantage 
over  curtains  that  the  plants  can  still  be  seen  and  enjoyed 
while  the  doors  are  shut. 


Two  Simply  Made  Window  Gardens 

Where  no  such  ready-made  advantage  as  the  above  is  at 
hand,  and  nothing  as  ambitious  as  a  small  conservatory 
can  be  attempted,  the  garden  may  be  placed  wholly  or 
partly  outside  of  the  window  or  windows  by  constructing 
a  miniature  glass  "lean-to''  on  the  outside,  supported  by 
suitably  strong  brackets  attached  to  the  house.  I  have 
seen  several  very  ingenious  forms  of  the  little  winter  gardens, 
which  afford  all  the  conditions  required  quite  perfectly 
where  there  are  but  a  limited  number  of  plants  to  be  grown. 
Two  of  the  simplest  were  constructed  as  follows. 

The  first  was  formed  of  a  standard  cold-frame  sash  and 
two  narrow  storm  windows.  The  latter  were  secured  to  the 
sides  of  the  window,  on  the  outside,  so  that  they  stood  out  at 
right  angles,  and  the  sash  was  screwed  firmly  to  these,  thus 
making  a  glass  box  outside  of  the  window.  Top  and  bottom 
were  then  added,  the  latter  being  given  slant  enough  to 
carry  off  water  and  melting  snow.  (Ordinary  plowed  and 
matched  ceiling  boards,  covered  with  a  high  grade  of  roofing 
paper,  answer  this  purpose,  the  roofing  paper  being  brought 
in  under  one  layer  of  clapboards  or  shingles,  to  get  a  tight 
joint.)  A  pane  of  glass  removed  from  one  of  the  storm- 
window  sides,  and  replaced  by  a  light  wooden  frame  of 
the  same  size,  on  hinges,  furnished  sufficient  ventilation. 
Ordinarily  the  living  room  supplied  enough  heat,  but  a 
kerosene  lamp,  placed  in  a  metal  box  for  safety,  gave  ex- 


NOVEMBER:  FIRST  WEEK  293 

tra  heat  at  night  when  needed.  Removable  shelves  were 
fitted  at  intervals  onto  cleats  supported  by  the  sides,  so 
that  a  goodly  number  of  plants  were  accommodated. 

The  second  was  made  on  much  the  same  principle,  but  was 
formed  of  two  cold-frame  sashes,  one  of  which  was  carefully 
sawed  and  cut  (with  a  glazier's  diamond,  the  glass  being 
cut  first)  from  inside  of  one  corner  to  a  corresponding  point, 
diagonally  from  corner  to  corner.  This  gave  the  two  sides; 
the  other  sash  forming  a  slanting  roof  from  the  top  of  the 
window  to  the  outer  edge  of  the  bottom,  placed  just  below 
the  window,  and  supported  by  stout  braces.  Heat  in  this 
case  was  supplied  by  a  small  gas  stove  in  the  cellar  below 
the  window,  covered  by  a  metal  hood  from  which  a  hot-air 
flue  led  through  the  wall,  and  then  up  through  a  wooden 
box  to  the  bottom  of  the  "conservatory."  A  very  small 
pipe,  running  from  the  regular  steam  or  hot-water  system, 
will  do  equally  well.  Or  a  small  lamp,  properly  protected, 
may  be  made  perfectly  safe,  and  will  heat  a  small  space 
of  this  sort  at  an  unbelieveably  little  cost.  When  a  lamp 
is  employed,  however,  very  strict  attention  must  be  paid 
to  ventilation. 


A  Convenient  Plant  Shelf 

If  the  plants  are  wanted  in  the  living-room  itself,  then 
make  a  substantial  shelf  for  the  window  in  which  they  are  to 
be  kept.  This  can  readily  be  attached  in  such  a  way  that  it 
can  be  taken  down  in  summer.  The  shelf  should  be  formed, 
preferably,  of  a  single  piece  of  well-dried  cypress  or  pine, 
that  will  not  warp,  with  lath  or  furring  strip  planed  smooth, 
or  moulding  neatly  and  tightly  nailed  about  the  outer  edge, 
and  projecting  an  inch  or  so  above  the  upper  surface.  By 
painting  the  edge  thickly  with  white  lead  just  before  nailing 
this  on,  a  tight  joint  will  be  secured.  The  shelf  or  stand 
itself  should  be  painted  with  "outside"  white.  If  this 
shelf  is  covered  with  a  layer  of  moss,  and  on  top  of  this  clean 
white  pebbles,  it  will  not  only  look  much  more  attractive 
than  a  plain  board  support,  but  the  pots,  while  having 


294      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

perfect  facilities  for  draining,  will  not  dry  out  so  quickly, 
and  the  surplus  moisture  absorbed  by  the  moss — instead 
of  running  down  to  water  the  roses  in  the  carpet  on  the  floor ! 
— will  evaporate  and  help  to  keep  the  air  about  the  plants 
normally  moist.  Even  with  an  inside  shelf  of  this  kind,  it  is 
not  a  difficult  task  to  shut  off  a  separate  space  for  the 
flowers  by  arranging  curtains  which  may  be  pulled  about 
them,  giving  much  better  control  of  the  conditions  of  mois- 
ture and  temperature,  and  making  it  possible  to  fumigate 
the  plants  with  tobacco  smoke,  if  necessary. 

Provide  Now  for  Next  Springs  Needs 

In  addition  to  these  details  of  construction,  do  not  for- 
get to  provide  yourself  with  all  the  materials  which  may  be 
needed  before  open  weather  in  the  spring  in  the  way  of 
soil,  sand,  fertilizers,  leaf-mould  or  chip-dirt,  sphagnum 
moss,  etc. — anything  that  is  likely  to  be  required  for  re- 
potting, starting  cuttings,  starting  plants  from  seed,  and 
potting  up  new  plants.  All  these  things  may  be  kept  in 
boxes  in  the  cellar,  out  of  the  way,  but  readily  available 
when  needed.  Keep  them  as  far  from  artificial  heat  as 
possible,  however,  to  avoid  their  drying  off  excessively. 


November :  Second  Week 

FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES  IN  STORAGE;  ODDS 
AND  ENDS  OF  OUTSIDE  WORK;  ROOTS  FOR 
FORCING;  "BUDS"  FOR  GRAFTING;  MAKING 
BEDS  AND  BORDERS  FOR  SPRING  PLANTING 

Before  the  advent  of  real  cold  weather  make  certain  that 
you  have  collected  and  put  into  their  final  winter  quarters 
all  vegetables  and  fruits  which  may  have  been  stored  tem- 
porarily in  the  hurry  of  harvesting.  A  careful  "going  over" 
at  this  time  of  such  things  as  apples,  pears,  squash,  onions, 
and  cabbage,  and — if  you  have  had  any  to  keep — melons, 
tomatoes,  and  cauliflowers,  will  be  of  double  value:  not  only 
will  you  be  sure  that  they  have  been  stored  as  carefully  as 
possible,  but  you  will  have  a  chance  to  weed  out,  and  set 
aside  for  early  use,  any  which  may  not  be  perfect  specimens. 
Any  lot  of  fruits  or  vegetables,  no  matter  how  carefully 
they  were  selected  at  the  time  of  harvesting  a  few  weeks 
ago,  nor  how  perfect  they  appeared,  will  have  some  spec- 
imens which  by  this  time  may  be  readily  picked  out  as  those 
which  will  be  the  first  to  cause  trouble,  even  if  they  have  not 
already  begun  to  do  so.  Any  effort  spent  now  in  culling 
out  such  "seconds"  will  be  well  worth  while.  One  apple 
slightly  bruised  in  harvesting,  and  decaying,  will  quickly 
contaminate  a  box,  or  even  a  whole  barrel-full,  if  it  is  not 
discovered  in  time.  The  same  is  true  of  the  other  things 
mentioned.  Make  sure  that  everything  you  put  away  is  in 
good  sound  condition  before  it  is  finally  "O.  K'ed,"  and 
given  its  place  on  shelf  or  in  bin. 

Another  thing  which  is  frequently  neglected  in  connection 
with  winter  storage  is  the  matter  of  ventilation.  Fresh  air 
is  good  for  the  things  you  have  stored,  especially  if  they 

295 


296      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

are  kept  where  moisture  collects,  even  to  a  small  extent,  as 
it  does  in  most  cellars  and  dark  store-rooms.  Open  up 
windows  or  doors  every  week  or  two  on  a  bright  dry  day,  or 
for  a  night,  if  it  is  not  too  cold;  and  don't  forget  to  keep  this 
up,  at  intervals,  during  the  winter.  Most  vegetables,  and 
fruits,  will  keep  best  in  a  cold  temperature — about  35  de- 
grees— where  the  air  is  not  too  dry.  Squash  and  sweet 
potatoes,  however,  keep  better  in  a  rather  warm  tempera- 
ture,— 45  degrees  or  over — and  a  very  dry  atmosphere:  a 
place  near  the  chimney  in  the  attic,  or  in  the  cellar  near 
the  heater,  furnishing  the  right  conditions. 

Clean  up  the  Outside  Jobs 

Take  advantage  of  every  warm  bright  day  to  clean  up  any 
outside  jobs  there  may  be  left  to  do:  any  day  now  may 
bring  weather  conditions  which  will  mean  the  cessation  of 
work  of  this  kind. 

Don't  leave  until  spring  any  garden  debris  or  rubbish 
that  can  be  cleaned  up  or  burned  up  now.  The  vegetable 
garden  that  is  left  full  of  dead  vines  and  pea-brush  and  to- 
mato and  bean  poles,  is  not  only  the  most  desolate  of  sights 
and  the  most  aggressive  signboard  of  slip-shod  methods, 
but  a  pleasant  and  safe  winter  resort  and  encampment  for 
all  sorts  of  insects  and  disease  spores. 

In  making  the  final  rounds  of  inspection,  look  carefully 
over  your  fruit  trees,  and  small  fruits.  Go  over  the  cane 
fruits — blackberries,  raspberries,  etc. — and  cut  out  all  old 
canes  that  fruited  this  year,  if  they  have  been  left  till  now. 
Cut  out  and  burn  any  new  ones  which  show  signs  of  borers. 
Carefully  examine  currants  and  gooseberries  for  borers 
also: — a  light-colored  slightly  wilted  shoot  will  enable  you 
to  recognize  where  one  is  present.  The  bushes  may  be 
thinned  or  cut  to  shape  now  if  desired,  but  as  a  general  rule 
it  will  be  better  to  leave  pruning  until  late  winter  or  early 
spring.  Grapes  however  may  be  pruned  now  to  advantage, 
as  soon  as  other  outside  work  has  been  attended  to. 


NOVEMBER:  SECOND  WEEK  297 

Late  summer  and  fall  flowering  shrubs  and  ornamentals 
may  be  pruned  now  if  there  is  likely  to  be  lack  of  time  for 
doing  this  work  in  the  early  spring;  the  advantage  in  waiting 
until  the  latter  time  is  that  winter  injuries  and  killing  back 
may  be  attended  to  at  the  same  time. 

A  Stitch  in  Time  for  Spring  Repairing 

Trellises  or  other  supports  for  grapes  and  trained  fruits 
should  be  looked  to  now  before  the  ground  freezes,  and  any 
needed  repairs  made.  If  this  is  put  off  until  later  there  is 
more  danger  of  damage  from  winds  and  snows.  If  any  new 
wire  is  to  be  used,  get  the  kind  known  as  "spring  coil,"  as 
this  will  remain  tight  at  all  times,  while  ordinary  wire  soon 
sags.  If  you  will  examine  an  old  trellis  you  will  see  that 
decay  almost  always  starts  around  the  nails.  Paint  all 
nails  and  joints  with  white  lead,  and  keep  the  whole  trellis 
painted  every  other  season  or  so,  with  some  neutral  color. 

Espalier  or  lattice  trained  fruits  are  often  planted  in  warm, 
sunny,  sheltered  positions:  if  against  a  wall  the  support  for 
them  should  be  a  foot  or  more  in  front  of  the  surface  of  the 
wall,  so  that  there  may  be  room  for  the  air  to  circulate  freely 
back  of  them.  In  such  a  situation  injury  is  often  caused 
either  during  winter,  from  bright  sunshine,  or  growth  is 
started  prematurely  in  the  spring,  and  damage  done  by  late 
frosts.  Protection  against  these  possibilities  may  be  had 
by  thoroughly  mulching  the  soil  about  the  roots  after  the 
ground  freezes,  and  by  shading  the  tops  with  a  screen  of  ever- 
green boughs:  such  a  screen  is  not  unsightly,  and  may  be 
constructed  quickly  and  easily  by  lacing  the  boughs  through 
a  few  strands  of  stout  wire  placed  a  few  feet  in  front  of  the 
plants  to  be  protected. 

Small  fruits,  growing  in  an  exposed  position,  where  ex- 
perience has  shown  there  is  some  danger  of  winter-killing, 
may  be  protected  by  evergreen  boughs' so  placed  as  to  shelter 
them  from  prevailing  winter  winds.  In  very  cold  climates, 
the  cane  fruits  are  given  winter  protection  by  laying  them 
down — first  loosening  the  roots  with  a  fork,  if  necessary — 


298      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

and  holding  them  in  position  by  shoveling  some  soil  onto 
the  tips :  this  must  be  removed  as  soon  as  possible  in  spring. 

Get  together  now  all  the  material  you  will  need  for  winter 
mulching  during  the  next  few  weeks.  For  the  hardy  bor- 
ders, bulb  beds,  box-wood  edgings,  rose  beds,  less  hardy 
shrubs  and  vines,  etc.,  well-rotted,  dry,  strawey  manure  is 
one  of  the  best  things  to  use.  Gather  up  fallen  leaves  and 
keep  them  in  a  dry  place,  as  they  will  be  useful  for  many 
purposes,  and  any  surplus  will  be  valuable  for  composting 
with  manure  for  hot-bed  material,  and  supplying  humus  for 
garden,  frames,  or  potting  soil.  For  the  rose  garden,  where 
the  bushes  have  to  be  protected  above  ground,  dry  leaves  are 
excellent.  Procure  a  generous  supply  of  evergreen  boughs; 
they  are  useful  for  many  purposes  in  putting  the  garden  to 
sleep  for  the  winter.  For  strawberry  beds,  covering  for 
frames,  etc.,  bog-meadow  or  salt  marsh  hay  is  the  most  de- 
sirable material — it  is  free  from  weed-seeds,  inconspicuous, 
and  stays  put.  If  that  cannot  be  procured,  get  rye  or  oat 
straw.  Get  as  much  as  you  are  likely  to  need  of  all  these 
things  in  advance,  and  have  them  where  they  will  be  ready 
to  use,  under  cover  and  dry,  when  things  freeze  up  for 
keeps: — remember  that  the  purpose  of  mulching  is  to  keep 
things  frozen,  not  to  protect  from  frost. 

Roots  for  Forcing 

Before  the  ground  freezes  hard,  take  up  a  supply  of 
rhubarb,  asparagus  and  sea-kale  roots  for  forcing  under  the 
greenhouse  benches  or  in  a  hot-bed,  during  the  early  winter 
and  spring  months.  Use  a  sharp  spade — or  cut  down  about 
them  before  lifting  with  the  lawn  edger  or  a  hay-knife — 
and  remove  them  with  a  generous  lump  of  soil,  kept  as 
intact  as  possible.  The  safest  way  is  merely  to  cut  about 
and  under  them,  making  sure  that  they  are  loose,  and  then 
leave  them  where  they  are  until  they  freeze  solid,  after 
which  they  may  be  moved  to  some  cold  shed  where  they 
will  remain  frozen,  but  be  get-at-able  when  wanted. 


NOVEMBER:  SECOND  WEEK  299 

Increase  Your  Orchard  by  Grafting 

Have  you  as  many  varieties  of  fruit  growing  on  your 
orchard  trees  as  you  would  like?  and  are  all  that  are  growing 
perfectly  satisfactory?  If  not,  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  add 
new  varieties  or  substitute  them  for  unsatisfactory  ones, 
without  increasing  the  number  of  trees.  The  actual  opera- 
tion of  grafting — or  of  budding,  which  is  similar — is  not 
performed  until  early  spring  (next  March  or  April),  but  it  is 
well  to  decide  now  what  you  would  like  to  do  in  this  line, 
and  provide  yourself  during  the  next  month  or  so  with 
"whips"  of  the  various  varieties  you  may  wish  to  add  to 
your  collection.  Right  now,  while  the  apple  season  is  in  its 
height,  is  the  time  to  "sample"  the  different  kinds,  and 
make  your  selections — three  bites  of  a  good  specimen  will 
tell  you  more  about  the  eating  quality  of  that  particular 
kind,  as  far  as  your  taste  is  concerned,  than  pages  of 
catalogue  or  book  descriptions  and  "acid,"  "sub-acid," 
"mild,"  and  "tart"  adjectives.  Whenever  you  sink  your 
teeth  into  an  apple  that  particularly  appeals  to  you,  find  out 
what  it  is,  and  then  put  the  name  down  in  black  and  white. 
Then  find  out,  either  from  local  growers  or  from  your  State 
experiment  station  or  county  agent,  which  of  the  several 
sorts  you  may  have  on  your  list  will  do  well  in  your  vicinity. 
The  "whips"  or  small  branches  of  "buds"  may  then  be 
procured  locally  or  ordered  from  a  reliable  nurserymen. 
In  the  former  case,  bury  them,  carefully  tagged,  in  the 
cellar,  or  keep  them  in  a  cold,  fairly  moist  place,  such  as  an 
ice-house,  so  they  will  remain  dormant  until  you  are  ready 
to  use  them.  If  ordering  from  a  nurseryman,  it  will  be  more 
convenient  to  have  them  reserved  until  you  want  them. 

Make  a  Rose  Garden  Now 

There  is  still  time  in  November,  before  the  ground  freezes 
hard,  to  prepare  a  rose  garden  for  next  spring's  planting, 
and  if  you  intend  to  set  out  any  roses  next  spring  by  all 
means  prepare  the  bed  now.  Of  the  thousands  of  roses  set 


300 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


out  every  spring,  only  hundreds  go  into  beds  that  have  been 
given  thorough  preparation.  In  spring  there  is  never  time 
to  do  the  job  so  well  as  it  should  be  done,  and  you  will  have 
lost  the  advantage  of  winter's  action  on  the  soil  and  the 
pre-digestion  of  the  manure  and  bone,  which  make  an  ideal 
condition  for  spring  planting. 

Stake  out  a  bed  of  the  desired  size,  allowing  eighteen 
inches  each  way  for  teas  and  hybrid  teas,  and  twenty-four 


LEVEL 


inches  for  hybrid  perpetuals.  Select  a  position  that  is 
naturally  well  drained,  sheltered  if  possible  from  north  and 
northwest  winds,  but  exposed  in  other  directions,  so  there 
will  be  free  circulation  of  air  about  the  plants — an  impor- 
tant point.  Dig  out  the  bed  to  a  depth  of  two  to  three  feet, 
the  latter  depth  being  necessary  if  artificial  drainage  must 
be  added.  Place  the  sod  and  the  good  soil  in  separate  piles 
along  one  edge  of  the  trench,  and  the  poor  soil  and  subsoil 
along  the  other  edge.  Break  up  the  subsoil  at  the  bottom 
of  the  trench  with  a  pick. 

First  put  in  the  drainage,  if  required — eight  inches  of 
coarse  gravel,  broken  stone,  old  plaster,  clean  cinders,  or 
any  similar  material.  Over  this  put  a  layer  of  sods,  grass 
side  down,  or  long  manure.  Fill  in  to  within  six  or  eight 
inches  of  the  surface  level  with  good  soil — the  heavier  the 
better — well  enriched  with  rotted  manure  and  coarse  or 
inch  bone.  The  last  six  or  eight  inches  should  be  of  soil  that 


NOVEMBER:  SECOND  WEEK  301 

has  not  been  enriched,  so  the  roots  will  be  tempted  to  feed 
well  below  the  surface.  Make  the  bed  a  couple  of  inches 
above  the  surface,  to  allow  for  settling. 

With  such  preparations  made  now  you  will  have  next 
spring,  not  only  a  bed  that  will  produce  superb  blooms,  but 
one  that  can  be  planted  out  in  a  few  minutes  after  your 
plants  arrive  from  the  nursery.  The  same  preparation  may 
be  made,  to  just  as  great  an  advantage,  for  a  new  flower 
border.  In  this  case  it  will  not  be  as  essential — though  of 
course  desirable — to  make  the  bed  quite  as  deep,  or  be  so 
particular  about  the  drainage,  as  for  roses. 


November:  Third  Week 

PUTTING  THE  GARDEN  TO  SLEEP  FOR  THE 
WINTER:  PROTECTION  OF  ROSES;  SHRUBS; 
BULBS;  PERENNIALS;  SMALL  FRUITS. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS  FOR  STOCK  PLANTS; 
MATERIALS  FOR  SPRING  WORK  INDOORS 

One  of  the  last  things  to  be  done  outside,  and  one  of  the 
most  important  things  for  the  success  of  the  garden,  is  to 
put  to  bed  for  the  winter  plants  that  require  protecton  — 
to  apply  mulching  where  it  is  needed,  in  the  right  way,  at 
the  right  time. 

Mulching  is  used  to  protect  plants  from  thawing  rather 
than  from  freezing.  Consequently  care  should  be  taken 
that  it  is  not  applied  too  soon.  Nothing  that  is  hardy 
enough  to  survive  in  the  open  ground  will  be  injured  by 
the  first  few  cold  snaps  of  autumn — in  fact,  Nature  provides 
for  this  as  a  process  of  ripening  that  the  plant  should  go 
through  in  order  to  do  its  best  the  following  season.  As  a 
general  rule  the  mulch  should  not  be  put  on  until  the  ground 
is  frozen  hard  and  severe  weather  appears  to  have  set  in. 

Winter  injury  to  plants  is  usually  due  to  one  of  three 
conditions:  Alternate  freezing  and  thawing;  heaving  of  the 
soil,  causing  exposure  of  the  roots;  and  too  severe  freezing 
of  tops  or  roots.  The  latter  condition  is  seldom  the  cause 
of  damage. 

It  will  often  be  as  late  as  the  middle  of  December  before 
the  mulch  is  required,  but  the  materials  should  be  obtained 
at  once.  There  are  several  good  materials  for  mulching, 
any  of  which  may  be  obtained  with  little  trouble  in  most 
localities.  Stable  litter,  or  thoroughly  dry  stable  manure, 
will  serve  both  as  a  mulch  and  a  valuable  source  of  plant 
food.  Marsh  or  meadow  hay,  or  grain  straw,  may  be 
utilized;  the  former  stays  put  better  and  is  not  so  conspicu- 

302 


NOVEMBER:  THIRD  WEEK  303 

ous.  For  the  small  place  in  the  city  or  suburbs  leaves  may 
be  used.  Evergreen  boughs  are  also  well  worth  having, 
either  to  hold  leaves  or  other  mulching  in  place,  or  by  them- 
selves to  provide  protection,  especially  where  the  climate  is 
not  very  severe.  These  boughs  are  also  good  for  tying  up 
plants  that  need  protection  above  ground,  being  much 
more  attractive  in  appearance  than  unsightly  straw  jackets. 

The  Neatest  Mulch  for  Beds  and  Borders 

For  covering  beds  or  borders  about  the  house,  or  wherever 
a  particularly  neat,  trim  appearance  is  desirable,  run  a 
strip  of  twelve-inch  chicken  wire  round  the  edges  of  the  bed, 
holding  it  in  position  with  small  stakes  every  five  or  ten  feet. 
Fill  this  with  leaves  to  the  desired  depth,  placing  a  few 
boards  or  boughs  on  top  if  the  winds  are  high  to  hold  the 
mulching  in  position  until  it  becomes  settled.  The  wire 
should  be  put  in  place  before  the  ground  freezes;  the  mulch 
may  be  put  on  at  any  time  afterward. 

Both  ground  and  mulching  material  should  be  dry  when 
the  mulch  is  put  on.  Though  the  ground  will  dry  off  very 
quickly  on  a  bright  day,  the  mulching  material,  if  once  wet 
through,  may  freeze,  and  in  any  case  will  require  several 
days  to  dry  out.  Therefore  it  is  best  to  keep  it  under  cover 
if  possible  until  wanted. 

Winter  mulching  is  required  in  many  places — in  the 
flower,  fruit  and  vegetable  gardens,  on  newly  planted 
borders,  on  the  bulb  beds,  and  round  newly  set  shrubs  or 
trees.  After  hard  frosts  have  killed  the  foliage  of  the  late- 
flowering  hardy  perennials,  such  as  chrysanthemums,  asters 
and  anemones  the  borders  should  be  gone  over  with  a  scythe 
or  sickle,  and  the  tops  cut  down  to  within  three  or  four 
inches  of  the  roots.  Burn  this  dead  material,  as  one  can 
never  be  certain  that  disease  spores  or  insect  eggs  or  cocoons 
will  not  be  harbored  to  make  trouble  next  year.  Manure 
makes  a  good  mulch  for  the  hardy  border,  as  a  large  part 
of  it  may  be  worked  into  the  soil  about  the  plants  in  the 
spring. 


304       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Protection  for  the  Roses 

Some  of  the  hybrid-perpetual  and  hybrid-tea  roses  are 
hardy  enough  to  go  through  the  ordinary  winter  without 
protection,  but  it  is  best  to  mulch  the  whole  rose  bed.  In  a 
severe  climate,  or  where  tender  sorts  are  grown,  the  earth 
should  be  drawn  up  round  the  canes  in  little  hills  before  the 
ground  freezes.  This  not  only  gives  extra  protection,  but 
also  insures  better  drainage.  Before  putting  on  the  mulch 
it  is  usually  advisable  to  cut  back  the  longer  shoots  by  a 
third  or  so.  This  applies  especially  to  the  taller,  stronger- 
growing  rose  bushes,  as  it  not  only  makes  them  less  in 
the  way,  but  lessens  the  danger  of  their  being  whipped  and 
beaten  about  by  the  winds.  The  regular  pruning,  of  course, 
is  not  given  until  spring.  Tea  and  hybrid- tea  roses,  that 
need  more  protection  than  the  usual  mulching  affords, 
may  be  put  into  winter  quarters  by  running  a  strip  of  wire 
round  the  bed,  as  already  described,  and  filling  this  with 
leaves  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  or  more.  This  method,  with 
evergreen  boughs  laid  over  the  top,  will  carry  through  most 
teas,  even  where  the  winters  are  severe. 

The  shrubbery  border  should  be  mulched,  especially 
during  the  first  winter  or  two  after  planting.  For  this 
work  it  is  better  to  use  rough  manure  or  leaves  in  preference 
to  straw,  so  the  material  can  be  worked  into  the  surface 
soil  in  the  spring,  making  a  drought-resisting  summer  cover- 
ing. As  the  mulch  for  shrubs  is  to  keep  the  soil  from  heav- 
ing, rather  than  to  protect  the  plants,  the  soil  about  each 
shrub  should  be  well  covered;  but  the  mulch  should  not  be 
crowded  up  round  the  stem  or  trunk  of  the  plant,  where  it 
may  furnish  protection  to  field  mice  or  other  rodents  to 
the  injury  or  even  loss  of  the  shrub.  This  is  an  additional 
reason  why  the  mulch  should  not  be  applied  before  the 
ground  freezes,  as  by  that  time  these  marauders  have  made 
their  winter  quarters  elsewhere. 

Some  of  the  native  hardy  lilies  are  safe  without  protection, 
but  most  of  the  others,  such  as  the  hardy  Japanese  sorts, 


NOVEMBER:  THIRD  WEEK  305 

the  candidum  or  Madonna,  the  longiflorum,  and  the  spe- 
ciosum,  are  better  for  protection,  especially  when  they  are 
growing  in  dirt  beds.  Any  bulb  or  plant  naturalized  among 
shrubs  or  in  grass  is  mulched  to  some  extent  by  Nature. 
Beds  and  borders  of  spring-blooming  bulbs — tulips,  nar- 
cissuses and  hyacinths — should  also  be  thoroughly  mulched. 

Winter  Mulch  for  Strawberries  and  Fruits 

In  the  fruit  garden  and  in  the  vegetable  garden  mulching 
is  also  required.  For  strawberries  nothing  is  better  than 
clean  marsh  hay,  which  is  free  from  weeds,  stays  in  position 
well  and  makes  a  clean,  dry  ground  covering  for  the  fruit- 
ing season.  Straw  is  more  likely  to  blow  about  over  the 
rest  of  the  garden  in  spring,  and  to  become  an  endless 
nuisance  by  catching  in  the  wheel-hoe  teeth  through  sum- 
mer. In  cold  parts  of  the  country  the  whole  surface— the 
ground  between  the  rows  as  well  as  the  plants — should  be 
covered  to  a  depth  of  several  inches.  In  more  southerly 
sections,  especially  when  the  rows  are  far  apart,  mulching 
over  the  plants  alone  will  be  sufficient. 

The  small  fruits— the  cane  fruits,  currants  and  goose- 
berries— are  benefited  by  winter  mulching,  which,  in  their 
case,  is  of  double  value,  as  it  may  be  utilized  again  for  a 
summer  mulch  after  the  plants  have  been  cultivated  or 
hoed  out  in  spring.  All  plants  of  this  class  suffer  from  dry 
weather  at  fruiting  time,  and  as  it  often  happens  that  one 
is  too  busy  to  provide  a  mulch  just  when  it  is  needed,  it  pays 
to  put  it  on  now  and  have  it  ready,  in  addition  to  getting 
the  benefit  during  the  winter.  Late  plantings  of  onions  or 
spinach,  to  be  carried  over  winter  for  spring  use,  should  also 
be  mulched;  hay  or  straw  is  better  in  this  case  than  leaves 
or  manure,  as  it  may  be  removed  more  readily  in  the  spring. 

All  newly  planted  shrubs  or  trees,  or  newly  made  beds, 
should  be  mulched.  Be  sure  that  the  surface  of  the  bed,  or 
the  soil  about  the  trees,  has  enough  slope  to  drain  itself 
readily  before  the  mulch  is  put  on.  Otherwise  water  may 


306      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

collect,  resulting  in  a  frozen  mass  of  ice  and  mulch  that  in- 
jures the  plant,  or  keeps  the  ground  about  it  frozen  in  spring 
until  long  after  the  rest  of  the  garden  has  thawed  out. 

Winter  Protection  for  Tall  Plants 

A  number  of  plants  require  protection  different  from,  or 
in  addition  to,  that  afforded  by  mulching.  Some  of  the 
tenderer  roses  and  shrubs,  which  might  be  injured  by  severe 
weather,  are  jacketed  with  straw.  For  this  purpose  ever- 
green boughs,  or  clean,  long  rye  straw  and  tarred  string 
should  be  used.  A  good  way  of  putting  on  a  jacket  of  this 
sort  is  to  have  a  number  of  adjustable  corn  ties  to  use  while 
getting  it  on  and  making  it  firm  and  snug,  then  to  wind 
securely  with  tarred  twine,  when  the  corn  ties  may  be  re- 
moved for  the  next  plant.  Still  other  plants,  such  as  hardy 
azaleas,  or  fruits  trained  against  the  south  side  of  a  wall,  may 
need  protection  from  the  sun  and  to  prevent  premature 
swelling  in  the  spring.  A  mulch  on  the  ground  will,  of 
course,  tend  to  hold  the  roots  back,  but  a  sun  shield  is 
sometimes  also  required.  Such  a  shield  may  be  constructed 
by  putting  up  stout  posts,  of  any  height  required,  stretching 
across  these  a  few  stout  wires,  and  interlacing  evergreen 
branches.  A  similar  fence  may  be  made  to  serve  as  a  wind 
shield. 

The  more  tender  roses  and  standard  or  tree  roses,  which 
are  more  susceptible  to  winter  injury  than  the  same  varieties 
grown  in  bush  form,  may  be  given  efficient  protection  in 
severe  climates  by  being  taken  up,  roots  and  all,  and  win- 
tered over  in  a  trench  or  a  deep  frame,  covered  with  hay 
or  straw,  with  a  foot  or  so  of  soil  on  top.  If  the  ground  is 
very  dry  give  the  soil  round  each  plant  a  thorough  soaking 
with  the  hose  the  day  before  taking  up.  Cut  down  about 
each  plant  with  a  sharp  edger  or  spade  that  will  cut  the 
roots  off  clean  and  leave  a  good  ball  of  earth.  Climbing 
roses  may  be  laid  down,  the  tips  being  held  in  place  with 
earth  or  a  notched  stick,  and  covered  with  mulch  or  dirt. 
In  this  way  many  of  the  beautiful  semi-hardy  climbers  may 


NOVEMBER:  THIRD  WEEK  307 

be  kept  quite  far  north,  and  the  hardy  climbers  up  into 
Canada. 

The  tender  hydrangeas  and  the  old-fashioned  century 
plants  should  be  carried  over  winter  in  a  cool  greenhouse, 
or  a  partially  lighted  cellar  or  cold  room,  where  the  temper- 
ature will  average  between  thirty  and  forty  degrees.  Give 
only  enough  water  to  keep  the  soil  from  getting  completely 
dried  out. 

Select  Chrysanthemums  Now  for  Stock  Plants 

If  you  grow  or  would  like  to  grow  chrysanthemums, 
now  is  the  time  to  select  stock  for  next  fall's  blooms.  If 
you  have  some  of  your  own  carefully  tag  a  plant  or  two  of 
the  best  sorts  before  the  blooms  are  cut.  Try  to  take  in 
one  of  the  flower  shows,  and  note  some  of  the  newer  sorts 
that  appeal  to  you.  At  any  rate  make  up  your  mind  to  try 
a  few  next  year.  You  may  grow  the  big  single  blossoms,  the 
medium-sized  flowers,  or  the  small  blooms  in  sprays,  as 
you  fancy. 

If  you  haven't  a  greenhouse  the  chrysanthemums  may 
be  grown  in  pots  during  the  summer  and  brought  in  at  the 
approach  of  cold  weather,  flowering  indoors  at  the  very 
season  when  other  plants,  after  their  shift  from  the  outside 
garden,  are  recuperating  and  barren  of  bloom.  In  sections 
where  the  falls  are  late  and  mild  the  chrysanthemums  may 
be  brought  to  bloom  under  a  protection  of  plant  cloth. 

It  is  an  easy  matter  to  get  plants  for  stock,  as  there  is 
always  a  surplus  as  the  cutting  season  draws  to  a  close. 
Pack  the  old  roots  into  a  box  or  flat,  which  may  be  kept 
in  any  cool  light  place,  with  an  occasional  watering  to  keep 
the  soil  from  drying  out,  until  January  or  February,  when 
more  water  and  a  higher  temperature  should  be  given  to 
start  them  into  active  growth. 

Materials  for  Spring  Work  Indoors 

This  is  the  last  chance  to  make  preparations  for  starting 
seedlings  and  cuttings  in  the  spring.  Secure  at  once  a 


308      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

couple  of  flour  barrels  from  your  grocer.  If  you  have  no 
good  compost  on  hand  make  a  mixture  of  garden  soil, 
adding  sand  if  it  is  heavy  and  leaf  mold  or  sod  scrapings. 
Enough  of  this  material — usually  about  a  third,  in  bulk- 
should  be  added  to  the  garden  soil,  or  soil  and  sand,  to  make 
the  resulting  mixture  very  light  and  porous,  and  friable 
enough  so  that  it  will  not  lump  when  squeezed  in  the  hand. 
A  barrel  or  two  of  this  soil  put  away  in  the  cellar,  or  in  some 
other  place  safe  from  freezing,  will  make  the  starting  of  seeds 
and  plants  in  the  spring,  when  the  ground  outside  is  still 
frozen  hard,  an  easy  matter.  A  surplus  of  the  leaf  mold  or 
sod  shavings  should  be  kept  to  mix  with  the  soil  for  the  seed 
boxes,  as  this  should  be  made  more  light  and  porous  than 
that  used  for  transplanting  and  potting.  An  hour  at  this 
job  now  will  save  you  trouble  next  March. 


November :  Fourth  Week 

WORK  FOR  THE  HOME  TREE  DOCTOR:  HOW  TO 
REPAIR  OLD  WOUNDS  AND  SPLITS;  FALL 
TRENCHING  AND  DRAINING 

The  beginning  of  winter  sees  no  cessation  of  work  on  the 
part  of  the  industrious  gardener.  The  ground  may  be  frozen 
or  covered  with  snow,  but  there  will  still  be  warm  after- 
noons when  there  is  keen  zest  in  a  few  hours'  brisk  work  in 
the  open  air.  It  is  nevertheless  unwise  to  put  off  these 
winter  jobs,  for  the  good  days  are  numbered. 

One  of  the  first  things  is  to  put  the  trees,  both  fruit  and 
ornamental,  in  order.  Be  your  own  tree  doctor.  For  or- 
dinary tree  ills  there  is  no  necessity  for  a  specialist.  You 
will  require  only  a  sharp  cutting-off  saw,  preferably  newly 
"  set" ;  a  good  strong  knife;  a  mallet  and  two  chisels,  one  half 
an  inch  and  the  other  one  and  a  quarter  inches;  some  heavy 
paint,  preferably  creosote;  Portland  cement  and  a  small 
mason's  trowel;  a  tree  scraper,  which  may  be  improvised  by 
nailing  a  flat  three-cornered  piece  of  metal  to  a  short  handle; 
and  possibly  a  bitstock  or  an  auger. 

Decaying  cavities  in  trunk  or  limbs  are  the  most  common 
injuries  of  serious  nature.  These  are  the  results  of  former 
abrasions  of  the  bark  and  the  cambium  layer,  or  living  skin, 
of  the  tree;  or  of  improper  pruning.  If  neglected  such  decay 
will  extend  rapidly  into  trunk  or  limb  until,  in  the  course  of  a 
few  years,  the  living  wood  will  be  destroyed  out  to  the  bark  in 
every  direction, — and  when  an  unusual  strain  of  wind  or 
ice  comes  it  will  all  be  over  but  the  crash!  This  decay  is  the 
result  of  disease  spores  or  germs  that  have  found  lodgment 
and  congenial  conditions  for  development  in  some  neg- 
lected wound,  often  a  very  slight  one.  It  could  have  been 
prevented  by  proper  precautions  at  the  time  of  the  infliction 
of  the  wound,  or  when  the  tree  was  pruned. 

309 


310  AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Repairing  an  Old  Wound 

The  fixing  of  an  old  wound  of  this  sort  is  sometimes  a 
lengthy  job,  but  unless  the  limb  or  tree  is  ready  to  collapse 
it  can  generally  be  successfully  accomplished.  Fortunately 
the  real  heart,  or  the  circulation  system,  is  near  the  outside, 
so  the  tree  can  flourish  vigorously  with  an  inner  heart  of 
stone. 

One  of  the  most  common  types  of  injury  is  illustrated  in 
an  accompanying  photograph.  Had  this  limb  been  sawed  off 
close  to  the  trunk  and  painted  over,  the  bark  itself  would 
probably  have  closed  in  over  it.  The  first  thing  to  do  in  all 
rotting  cavities  of  this  kind  is  to  cut  back  in  every  direction 
to  clean,  live  wood  and  bark.  In  order  to  do  this  it  may  be 
necessary  to  cut  away  a  good  deal  of  live  wood  and  bark 
round  the  mouth  of  the  cavity;  or,  if  the  heart  of  the  tree 
has  rotted  out  too  far  down  to  be  reached  from  the  opening, 
it  may  be  necessary  to  make  another  opening  near  the 
ground.  But  get  out  all  the  dead  and  partially  decayed 
wood.  If  it  is  impossible  to  clean  it  all  out  by  any  other 
means  a  gasoline  torch  may  be  held  against  the  inaccessible 
parts  for  a  few  minutes. 

Then  give  the  whole  a  thorough  coating  of  creosote. 
Other  paints  with  disinfectant  action  may  be  used,  but 
creosote,  being  both  sticky  and  penetrating,  is  especially 
good  for  this  work.  To  have  a  perfect  job  the  cavity  should 
be  filled  to  the  last  crevice  and  sealed  air-tight.  As  the 
wood  sometimes  parts  slightly  from  the  filling  at  the  mouth 
of  the  cavity  a  layer  of  elastic  cement  may  be  used  to  join 
wood  and  cement  at  the  opening,  but  usually  a  heavy  coat 
of  paint  will  afford  all  the  protection  required. 

The  filling  for  the  cavity  should  be  a  fairly  rich  mixture 
of  sand  and  cement.  For  very  large  holes  a  regular  1-2-4 
mixture  will  do  for  the  bulk  of  the  work,  being  finished  off 
with  cement  and  sand,  one  part  of  the  former  to  two  or 
three  of  the  latter.  If  long  vertical  openings  are  to  be  filled 
a  form  may  be  made  of  stiff  roofing  paper,  greased  or  soaped 
on  the  inside  and  made  to  conform  to  the  shape  and  size 


NOVEMBER:  FOURTH  WEEK 


of  the  tree.  The  filling  should  be  built  out  just  level  with 
the  inside  of  the  bark,  which  will  grow  over  the  cement 
with  remarkable  rapidity.  Sometimes,  to  fill  the  cavity 
to  the  top,  it  is  necessary  to  bore  a  hole  from  above  and  to 
pour  in  the  wet  concrete.  After  the  filling  is  in  place  care- 
fully paint  over  any  exposed  wood,  especially  where  it 
comes  in  contact  with  the  cement. 

Care  should  be  taken  not  to  use  cement  just  before  a 
freeze  may  be  expected.  A  newly  finished  job,  however, 
may  be  protected  from  several  degrees  of  frost  by  tying  a 
heavy  blanket  or  some  old  sacking  over  it.  Do  not  let  the 
cold  prevent  your  cleaning  out  and  painting  the  wounds 
now.  In  the  spring,  after  further  treatment  if  required,  the 
filling  may  be  put  in  in  a  few  minutes. 

How  to  Mend  a  Split 

Next  to  decay,  splitting  from  wind  or  ice  or  over-fruiting 
probably  causes  more  damage  than  anything  else.  Besides 
the  breaking  apart  of  limbs  there  is 
usually  more  or  less  injury  to  the  ad- 
jacent bark.  In  cases  of  this  kind  the 
limbs  should  be  put  back  into  their 
proper  position  as  soon  as  possible  by 
tying  heavy  chains  or  ropes  round 
them — protecting  the  bark  with  old 
sacking  or  slats  of  wood — and  twist- 
ing these  tight  with  an  iron  or  stout 
wooden  bar.  To  hold  the  damaged 
limbs  in  place  permanently  it  is  well 
to  have  made  iron  rods  of  the  right 
length,  with  ring  bolts  at  each  end. 
Extra  large  washers,  which  may  be 
slightly  countersunk  into  the  outer 
surfaces  of  the  limbs,  should  be  used 
for  the  bolts.  All  injured  parts  should  be  cut  away 
and  the  surfaces  painted  thickly  just  before  the  pieces  are 
drawn  tightly  into  place,  as  shown  in  the  drawing  on  this 
page. 


312       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Protect  Your  Young  Fruit  Trees 

Do  not  neglect  to  protect  trees  from  injury.  Guard  the 
roots  of  young  fruit  trees  from  bark  injury  by  rabbits  or 
other  rodents.  Earth  should  be  drawn  up  in  a  mound  round 
the  trees  just  before  freezing  weather.  Newly  planted 
trees  so  situated  that  they  may  be  injured  by  wagon  wheels 
should  be  protected  by  strong  stakes  driven  about  a  foot 
distant,  to  which  they  may  be  held  lightly  by  bands  of 
burlap  or  pieces  of  old  rubber  hose,  but  not  by  string  or 
wire.  Trees  near  the  curb,  where  horses  may  get  at  them, 
should  be  protected  by  wire  guards.  Older  trees  may  be 
used  as  hitching  posts  without  danger  of  injury  by  the 
simple  expedient  of  putting  a  screw  ring  or  a  short  chain 
and  snap  into  one  end  of  a  short  stake  and  securing  the 
other  end  to  the  tree  by  two  stout  staples,  allowing  the 
stick  to  hang  down  out  of  the  way  when  not  in  use. 

Limbs  that  have  been  broken  should  be  cut  back  to  the 
trunk  or  the  parent  limb  of  the  tree,  and  the  scars,  if  more 
than  an  inch  or  so  in  diameter,  should  be  painted  over. 

Grading  Around  a  Tree 

Sometimes  fine  trees  are  injured  in  grading  work.  Earth 
is  filled  in  directly  against  the  base  of  the  trunk.  To  over- 
come this  danger  a  low  wall  may  be  built  round  the  tree, 
a  couple  of  feet  or  less  distant,  and  up  to  the  grade  line.  If 
the  ground  can  be  given  a  slight  pitch  in  all  directions  from 
the  tree,  and  the  soil  below  it  is  well  drained,  this  is  all  that 
is  necessary.  If  from  the  nature  of  the  soil  or  the  grade 
there  is  danger  of  water  collecting  at  the  foot  of  the  tree, 
a  circle  of  drain  tiles  should  be  laid  about  it  with  several 
connecting  lines  or  spokes  extending  from  the  base  of  the 
pit,  so  that  any  surplus  water  will  be  distributed  through 
the  tiles  over  a  considerable  area. 

Forcing  Roots  Indoors 

Before  the  ground  freezes  hard  prepare  some  asparagus 
and  rhubarb  roots  for  winter  forcing  under  the  bench  in 
the  greenhouse  or  in  a  warm,  fairly  light  cellar.  With  a 


NOVEMBER:  FOURTH  WEEK  313 

sharp  spade  cut  round  and  under  some  of  the  largest  and 
oldest  crowns.  Good  balls  of  earth  should  be  secured  with 
the  roots,  which  should  be  taken  out  intact  if  possible. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  take  them  up  now;  if  they  are  simply 
loosened  and  left  in  the  hole  they  will  freeze  solid,  to  be 
removed  later,  a  few  at  a  time,  if  a  good  supply  is  available. 

This  plan  will  not  only  give  you  fresh  rhubarb  for  winter, 
but  your  bed  will  be  benefited,  for  you  will  have  room  to 
take  up  and  divide  the  remaining  roots.  If  you  have  no 
outdoor  bed  from  which  to  take  roots  a  few  may  be  bought 
at  a  reasonable  price  from  some  neighboring  market 
gardener,  or  from  your  seedsman.  But  before  forcing  let 
them  freeze. 

Place  a  few  roots  in  a  tight,  shallow  box,  pack  moss, 
chip-dirt  or  coal  ashes  about  them  to  help  hold  the  moisture, 
water  thoroughly,  and  place  them  where  they  will  have  a 
moderate  degree  of  heat.  In  cutting  the  first  shoots  of 
asparagus  be  careful  not  to  cut  through  the  other  buds  that 
are  just  starting. 

If  you  have  grown  a  supply  of  Witloof ,  or  French  salad 
chicory,  take  up  the  strongest  roots,  trim  them  back  to  a 
convenient  size,  and  plant  them  in  a  box  of  sand  or  sandy 
soil,  covering  them  well.  With  warmth  and  plenty  of  mois- 
ture in  a  dark  place,  the  new  growth  of  leaves  sent  out  will 
be  tenderly  blanched  and  will  make  a  delicious  salad  at 
the  season  of  the  year  when  fresh  salads  are  scarce.  Or 
the  roots  may  be  placed,  upright,  in  a  frame,  covered  with 
soil,  and  a  layer  of  warm  manure  put  over  this,  to  stimulate 
growth. 

Drain  Now  to  Save  Time  in  Spring 

After  all  the  other  fall  work  is  cleaned  up  there  is  usually 
a  chance  before  hard  freezing  to  do  a  lot  of  work  that  will 
save  time  next  spring.  For  some  time  past  both  spring 
and  fall  in  the  East  have  averaged  later  than  in  former 
years.  In  several  recent  seasons  we  have  been  able  to  plow 
almost  up  to  Christmastime,  but  our  spring  operations  have 
been  delayed  from  one  to  three  weeks. 


314      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

If  you  have  any  patch  of  land  that  is  cold  and  backward 
in  the  spring,  remaining  too  wet  to  be  worked  when  you 
would  like  to  be  getting  ready  to  plant,  by  all  means  drain 
it  now.  A  few  dollars'  worth  of  drain  tile  and  a  couple  of 
days'  work  by  an  ordinary  laborer  under  your  supervision 
will  vastly  improve  a  considerable  sized  garden  patch,  and 
you  may  have  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  such  soil 
is  usually  the  best  after  it  is  properly  drained. 

The  tiles  should  be  put  down  as  deep  as  possible,  at  least 
two  feet,  preferably  three,  and  if  possible  four.  The  lines 
of  tile  should  be  about  twenty-five  feet  apart  for  a  three- 
foot  depth,  and  may  be  forty  feet  apart  for  a  four-foot 
depth.  The  extra  foot  in  the  depth  of  the  trenches  pays  well. 

In  laying  out  the  lines  for  the  ditches  locate  the  highest 
and  the  lowest  points  of  the  piece  to  be  drained,  and  see 
that  the  tile,  slopes  slightly  but  without  any  exceptions,  in 
the  right  direction.  After  the  tile  has  been  put  in  and  before 
the  ditch  has  been  filled  with  the  soil  it  will  be  well  to  test 
the  system  in  two  or  three  places  with  pailfuls  of  water. 

Fall  Trenching 

In  gardens  small  enough  to  be  worked  by  hand  thorough 
' '  trenching ' '  will  pay  well.  Instead  of  spading  up  the  garden 
in  the  ordinary  way  throw  out  a  furrow  or  ditch  one  spade 
deep  across  the  plot.  Then  go  over  the  same  strip  again, 
spading  up  and  thoroughly  breaking  the  lower  soil,  but 
leaving  it  where  it  was.  Throw  the  next  strip  of  top-soil  on 
this,  and  in  the  same  way  thoroughly  pulverize  the  strip  of 
soil  beneath  it;  and  so  continue  to  the  other  side  of  the  piece. 
If  you  can  give  the  surface  a  good  dressing  of  manure  before 
trenching  by  all  means  do  so.  You  will  then  have  your 
garden  in  the  finest  possible  shape  for  next  spring's  planting 
— the  manure  well  below  the  surface  and  largely  converted 
into  available  forms  of  plant  food,  and  the  surface  soil  ready 
to  work  up  fine  as  silk  after  the  winter's  disintegrating 
action  on  the  soil  particles.  By  the  same  token  late  fall 
plowing  is  desirable,  except  on  slopes,  where  the  soil  may 
wash  during  heavy  rains. 


December:  First  Week 

THE  WINTER  WINDOW  GARDEN:  VENTILATION; 
MOISTURE;  SOIL;  CARE.  PROPAGATING 
BUSHES  AND  SHRUBS 

Something  more  than  an  appreciation  of  their  beauty  is 
required  to  make  plants  succeed  in  the  house.  It  is  com- 
paratively seldom  that  one  sees  really  good  specimens 
even  in  the  living-rooms  of  those  whose  outside  gardens  are 
a  summer-long  delight.  The  cause  of  failure  is  generally 
lack  of  realization  of  the  change  of  environment  under 
which  the  plants  must  be  grown,  rather  than  ignorance 
of  their  general  requirements.  The  matter  of  being  regular 
in  the  care  of  plants  in  the  house  is  the  most  important 
step  to  success.  Only  a  few  minutes  a  day  need  be  given, 
but  those  few  minutes  should  be  given  every  day.  If  you 
are  not  willing  to  concede  this  much  attention  at  the  outset 
you  would  better  let  the  florist  see  to  the  growing  of  your 
plants. 

Devotion  and  regularity  alone,  however,  will  accomplish 
nothing.  In  addition  you  must  provide  a  suitable  place 
in  which  to  keep  the  plants;  kinds  and  varieties  that  are 
suited  to  the  conditions  under  which  they  must  be  grown; 
and  common  sense,  mixed  with  some  experience,  in  their  care. 

The  matter  of  a  suitable  place  is  open  to  some  discussion. 
Many  persons  have  the  idea  that  if  the  room  is  only  kept 
hot  enough  the  plants  will  grow.  They  could  make  no 
greater  mistake.  A  suitably  high  temperature  is  neces- 
sary, but  other  conditions  just  as  essential  are  light,  ade- 
quate means  of  ventilation,  and  moisture  in  the  air. 

Light  and  Temperature 

Most  of  the  flowering  plants  and  many  of  the  others 
should  be  given  all  the  light  possible  during  the  winter 

315 


316      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

months.  Direct  sun  through  a  south  window  is  sometimes 
too  extreme,  but  this  may  be  modified  by  drawing  a  thin 
white  curtain  across  the  upper  part  of  the  window.  A 
sunny  window  is  decidedly  desirable  for  the  geranium 
and  some  other  flowering  plants,  but  others,  such  as  the 
begonia,  will  do  well  in  indirect  light  or  in  partial  shade, 
and  still  others,  such  as  the  fuchsia,  should  be  kept  out 
of  the  direct  sunlight. 

So  far  as  temperature  requirements  are  concerned,  plants 
suitable  for  indoor  culture  may  be  divided  into  two  classes : 
First,  those  that  will  thrive  with  a  night  temperature  of 
forty-five  to  fifty  degrees;  second,  those  requiring  fifty  to 
sixty  degrees.  If  it  is  not  possible  to  have  two  rooms  or 
two  windows  where  a  difference  in  temperature  may  be 
maintained,  more  satisfactory  results  will  be  had  by  select- 
ing all  the  plants  for  your  window  garden  from  either  one 
class  or  the  other.  A  drop  of  five  or  ten  degrees  for  a  few 
hours,  on  an  exceptionally  cold  night,  will  not  prove  fatal, 
but  many  repetitions  will  severely  check  the  plants  and  keep 
them  in  a  practically  dormant  condition.  The  day  tem- 
perature may  range  from  five  to  fifteen  degrees  higher 
than  the  figures  given. 

Plants  Must  Have  Fresh  Air 

Two  facts  that  the  grower  of  plants  in  the  house  is  likely 
to  overlook  are  that  fresh  air  and  normally  moist  air  are 
as  essential  to  the  plants'  continued  good  health  as  are 
warmth,  light  and  watering. 

Neglect  of  these  two  things  undoubtedly  causes  the 
great  majority  of  house-plant  troubles,  either  directly  or  in- 
directly, through  the  fostering  of  insects  and  disease.  For 
best  results  the  plants  should  be  given  fresh  air  every  day, 
with  the  very  occasional  exception  of  very  cold,  windy 
or  stormy  days.  The  more  indirect  the  ventilation  can 
be,  the  better,  so  long  as  it  is  thorough.  Direct  drafts 
should  be  avoided.  Fresh  air  from  an  adjacent  hall,  or 
from  a  window  in  the  next  room,  with  a  window  in  the 


DECEMBER:  FIRST  WEEK  317 

plant  room  opened  at  the  top  to  allow  the  escape  of  dead 
air,  makes  an  ideal  arrangement,  and  one  that  incidentally 
will  be  very  beneficial  to  the  human  as  well  as  to  the  botan- 
ical inmates  of  the  room. 

Next  to  the  variations  in  temperature  the  chief  drawback 
to  growing  plants  in  the  house  is  the  burned-out  condition 
of  the  atmosphere.  Steam,  hot  air  and  hot  water  all  rap- 
idly dry  up  the  normal  amount  of  moisture  in  the  air. 
A  certain  degree  of  air  moisture,  however,  is  just  as  essen- 
tial to  plant  growth  as  is  soil  moisture.  The  only  sure 
way  of  keeping  the  air  moist  is  to  have  a  special  place, 
large  or  small,  for  the  plants,  that  can  be  regulated  inde- 
pendently of  the  living-room.  When  plants  are  kept  in 
the  living-room,  however,  moisture  can  be  maintained  to 
a  satisfactory  degree  by  frequently  changing  the  air  and 
by  keeping  bowls  or  pans  of  water  on  or  near  the  stoves 
or  radiators,  where  it  will  evaporate.  Another  thing  to 
be  kept  in  mind  is  to  select  a  place  for  the  plants  where 
they  may  readily  be  got  at,  watered  and  cared  for.  Inac- 
cessibility is  frequently  one  of  the  causes  of  troubles; 
bugs  get  a  start  or  pots  dry  out  before  one  notices; 
or  because  of  the  trouble  of  tending  them  the  plants  are 
neglected. 

If  you  plan  to  keep  anything  more  than  a  rubber  tree,  a 
fern  dish  or  a  single  geranium  in  your  winter  window  garden 
it  will  pay  to  fix  a  place  of  suitable  size  that  can  be  shut 
off  from  the  rest  of  the  room  temporarily  when  required, 
and  where  watering  can  be  done  without  making  a  muss. 
If  you  have  a  bay  window  that  can  be  devoted  to  the  pur- 
pose and  that  can  be  shut  off  by  glass  doors  or  heavy  cur- 
tains, nothing  better  could  be  asked. 

A  Window  Conservatory 

If  you  cannot  use  a  bay  window,  here  is  a  simple  plan 
that  will  be  found  satisfactory:  Secure  a  wide  cypress  or 
white-pine  board  an  inch  thick  and  as  long  as  or  a  little 
longer  than  the  window.  Round  the  edges  nail  thin  strips 


3iS      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

about  two  inches  wide,  flush  with  the  bottom  and  pro- 
jecting an  inch  or  so  above  the  upper  edges  of  the  board. 
Stain  or  paint  this  to  match  the  window  frame  and  give 
it  a  heavy  coating  of  spar  varnish.  Get  two  stout  brass 
brackets  and  fasten  the  shelf  to  the  window  frame  in  such 
a  way  that  the  window  may  be  opened,  and  the  window 
shade  drawn  down  inside  the  shelf.  If  desired  a  similar 
shelf,  but  preferably  a  narrower  one,  may  be  placed  at  a 
suitable  distance  above  it. 

To  the  top  of  the  window  fasten  a  small  rod  upon  which 
a  curtain  may  slide  easily.  This  support,  which  should 
project  far  enough  so  the  curtain  will  hang  outside  the 
plant  shelf,  may  be  made  of  two  heavy  sockets  strong 
enough  to  support  the  rod  and  the  curtain,  two  short  end 
pieces,  two  elbows  and  one  piece  of  rod  or  tubing  the  width 
of  the  window  or  of  the  plant  shelf. 

A  layer  of  sphagnum  moss  topped  with  white  pebbles 
or  with  clean,  coarse  gravel,  into  which  the  pots  can  be 
sunk,  will  look  neat,  will  absorb  surplus  water  and  will 
keep  the  plants  from  drying  out  as  quickly  as  they  do  on 
unsightly  saucers.  The  shelves  may  be  taken  down  after 
the  plants  are  set  outdoors  in  spring. 

An  ordinary  window  may  easily  be  converted  into  a 
miniature  plant  conservatory.  A  storm  window  placed 
outside  the  regular  window  forms  the  front,  two  narrow 
windows  of  the  desired  width  form  the  sides,  and  inch 
boards  covered  with  roofing  paper  and  painted  to  match 
the  window  trimming,  form  the  roof  and  the  floor  of  this 
simple  but  roomy  little  bay. 

Soil  for  Potted  Plants 

Soil  for  most  house  plants  should  be  light,  friable  and 
moderately  rich.  The  ingredients  may  be  good  garden 
loam,  sifted  leaf  mold  or  decomposed  sod,  sand,  and  a 
little  bone  meal — about  a  teaspoonful  to  a  four-inch  pot. 
Geraniums  do  well  in  a  heavier  soil.  Ferns,  begonias  and 
other  plants  with  root  growth  of  a  fibrous  character  do 
well  in  a  lighter  mixture — that  is,  more  leaf  mold  or  sod 


DECEMBER:  FIRST  WEEK  319 

in  proportion  to  the  loam.  Pots  more  than  three  or  three 
and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  should  be  supplied  with 
drainage  material — a  few  pieces  of  broken  pot  so  placed 
that  none  of  them  will  lie  flat  across  the  hole  in  the  bottom 
and  clog  it  up,  and  any  rough,  porous  material  on  top  of 
them. 

As  to  daily  care  of  plants  in  the  house  remember  it  is 
just  as  easy  and  as  fatal  to  overdo  as  to  underdo.  Don't 
"  fuss  "  with  your  plants.  They  should  be  looked  after  every 
day  and  examined  every  few  days,  but  the  less  they  are 
handled  the  better,  except  for  occasionally  turning  halfway 
round  so  they  will  not  be  drawn  toward  the  light  and  made 
one-sided. 

The  surface  of  the  soil  in  the  pot  should  be  stirred  oc- 
casionally. Weak  liquid  manure  may  be  fed  to  advantage 
to  the  plants,  especially  when  they  are  blooming.  Nitrate 
of  soda,  used  at  the  rate  of  a  tablespoonful  to  a  ten  or 
twelve  quart  watering  can,  is  excellent  for  this  purpose. 
Fine  bone  flour,  sprinkled  on  barely  to  cover  the  surface 
of  the  soil  and  worked  in  with  an  old  spoon  or  a  knife  is 
also  effective,  and  these  two  make  a  combination  contain- 
ing nitrogen  and  phosphoric  acid  in  forms  that  will  be 
both  immediately  and  gradually  available.  Unleached 
wood  ashes  may  be  mixed  with  the  plant  soil  to  form  a 
source  of  potash. 

Give  your  plants  water  only  when  needed;  then  water 
thoroughly.  To  find  just  how  much  to  give  knock  some 
of  the  earth  balls  out  of  the  pots  ten  or  fifteen  minutes 
after  watering  and  see  if  the  water  has  soaked  clear  through 
to  the  bottom;  if  it  has  not  you  are  not  applying  quite 
enough  moisture.  If  the  soil  in  the  pots  becomes  dry 
enough  to  get  hard  stand  the  pots  in  a  basin  or  tub,  partly 
filled  with  water,  until  it  becomes  moist. 

Keeping  Plants  Healthy 

One  of  the  important  secrets  of  success  is  to  keep  your 
plants  clean — free  from  both  dust  and  bugs.  Close  the 
doors  or  curtains  of  the  plant-nook  whenever  the  rooms  are 


320      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

being  swept  or  dusted.  Every  week  or  two  syringe  both 
upper  and  lower  surfaces  of  the  leaves  of  the  plants  with 
clear  cold  water.  For  this  purpose  a  hard-rubber,  goose- 
neck sprinkler  costing  seventy-five  cents  or  a  dollar  is  very 
convenient.  If  you  have  only  a  few  plants  they  may  be  set 
in  a  sink  or  a  tub  for  this  operation. 

Palms,  rubber  trees  and  other  large-leaved  plants  should 
occasionally  be  wiped  off  with  a  moist,  soft  cloth.  Do  not 
use  olive  oil  or  try  any  other  stunts  to  make  the  leaves 
clean  and  shiny,  as  this  will  clog  up  the  pores,  which  is 
just  what  should  be  avoided.  Cut  off  promptly  all  dead 
leaves  and  flowers  and  any  leaves  that  show  signs  of  disease. 

Plants  that  are  carefully  looked  after  and  given  an 
abundance  of  fresh  air  will  seldom  be  troubled  by  insect 
pests.  Avoid  furnishing  your  enemies  congenial  conditions, 
such  as  overcrowding,  overheating,  poor  light,  dryness — in 
fact  anything  that  will  have  a  tendency  to  check  or  weaken 
the  growth  of  the  plants.  The  insects  most  likely  to  be 
encountered  inside  the  house  are  the  green  aphis  or  plant 
louse;  the  "mealy  bug" — a  soft-bodied  scale  that  hides 
under  a  white  covering  resembling  a  minute  tuft  of  cotton; 
the  white  fly;  and  the  red  spider,  which  is  about  the  size 
of  a  grain  of  pepper,  infests  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves 
and  is  indicated  by  a  light  green  color  of  the  foliage,  with 
minute  yellow  spots.  Nicotine  sprays,  kerosene  emulsion, 
etc.,  are  as  effective  indoors  as  out.  The  plants  should  be 
watched  carefully,  and  a  suitable  remedy  used  at  the  first 
sign  of  trouble. 

The  quickest,  simplest  and  cleanest  remedy  for  any  of 
these  pests  is  a  hot  bath.  This  can  be  given  readily  when 
only  a  few  plants  are  to  be  treated.  Dip  them  quickly, 
several  times  in  succession,  into  water  heated  to  140  to  160 
degrees;  rinse  them  off  in  clear,  cold  water.  In  applying 
this  treatment  for  the  white  fly  do  it  when  the  plant  is 
quite  cold,  and  the  insects  are  dormant.  Other  remedies 
are:  Nicotone  in  one  of  the  several  trade  forms  that  simply 
have  to  be  diluted  with  water  and  applied;  tobacco  dust, 
which  is  specially  good  as  a  preventive;  and  kerosene 


DECEMBER:  FIRST  WEEK  321 

emulsion  for  scale  and  for  the  sucking  nymphs  of  the  white 
fly.  Cold  water  applied  with  as  much  force  as  possible 
will  help  to  dislodge  the  red  spider;  a  small  brush  dipped 
in  alcohol  or  kerosene  will  quickly  dispose  of  the  pernicious 
mealy  bug. 

Propagating  Bushes  and  Shrubs 

If  you  have  use  for  any  more  grapevines,  gooseberry 
or  currant  bushes,  or  such  shrubs  as  deutzias,  weigelias 
and  forsythias,  you  can  propagate  your  own.  All  these 
things  may  be  bought  at  reasonable  prices,  but  it  is  fun  to 
do  the  work  yourself.  The  cuttings  should  be  six  to  ten 
inches  long,  and  made  of  new  growth  that  is  ripe  enough 
to  be  firm.  At  least  two  buds  or  pairs  of  buds  should  be 
taken  in  each  cutting,  the  bottom  one  being  quite  close 
to  the  lower  end.  These  cuttings  should  be  placed  in  a 
small  box  of  sphagnum  moss,  sand  or  sawdust  in  the  cellar. 
For  convenience,  if  you  are  making  several  of  each  sort, 
tie  them  in  small  bundles,  carefully  tagged.  This  winter 
storage  allows  the  cuttings  to  callus  and  to  undergo  other 
changes  that  make  them  ready  to  root  quickly  when  set 
out  in  spring. 

Set  New  Varieties  of  Flowering  Plants  Now 

Every  enthusiastic  gardener  likes  to  add  to  the  collection 
of  flowering  plants  the  newer  varieties.  Frequently,  how- 
ever, these  cost  in  the  spring  from  two  to  five  times  as 
much  as  standard  plants  of  the  same  size.  If  you  are 
keeping  plants  in  the  house  and  have  room  for  a  few  ad- 
ditional pots,  buy  now  small-sized  plants  of  these  newer 
things,  and  grow  them  on  during  the  winter.  This  will 
give  you  not  only  several  additional  months  of  enjoyment, 
but  also  good  stocky  plants  at  half  or  quarter  what  they 
would  cost  you  if  you  waited  until  May  or  June.  If  you 
are  near  a  florist  you  can  generally  buy  small  plants  of 
these  newer  things  and  have  them  repotted  when  you 
get  them;  they  will  then  grow  without  further  attention, 
so  far  as  pots  are  concerned,  for  some  months. 


December :  Second  Week 

THE  WINTER  CAMPAIGN  IN  ORCHARD  AND 
GARDEN:  WINTER  SPRAYING;  WINTER 
PRUNING  OF  FRUIT  TREES;  CANE  FRUITS 
AND  SHRUBS 

Early  winter  is  the  ideal  time  to  catch  many  of  the 
orchard  and  garden  pests  off  their  guard.  They  are  in  a 
torpid  state  and  can  be  located  more  readily.  We  can 
also  use  much  stronger  sprays  on  dormant  trees  than  we 
can  use  in  summer,  and  the  absence  of  leaves  makes  possible 
a  much  more  thorough  and  convenient  job  of  spraying. 

The  work  may  be  done  at  any  time  from  fall  until  growth 
starts  in  spring,  but  the  best  time  is  now.  We  may  have 
one  of  those  remarkable  Indian  summers  running  almost  up 
to  Christmas,  but  remember  what  kind  of  weather  we 
are  likely  to  get  in  January,  February  and  March,  and  do 
your  Christmas  spraying  early! 

The  outfit  required  for  the  home  grounds,  the  fruit  trees 
and  garden,  is  simple.  In  addition  to  your  regular  knap- 
sack or  compressed-air  garden  sprayer  you  need  a  spray 
pole,  or  a  length  of  quarter-inch  hose  which  you  can  fasten 
to  a  sawed-off  bamboo  fish  pole,  and  one  or  two  suitable 
spray  nozzles.  If  you  don't  already  own  a  knapsack  or  a 
compressed-air  sprayer  make  yourself  a  Christmas  present 
of  one  at  once — not  for  winter  spraying  alone,  but  because 
you  will  need  it  every  month,  almost  every  week,  to  take 
proper  care  of  your  summer  garden,  flowers,  potted  plants, 
house  plants,  and  so  forth.  Your  sprayer  should  be 
equipped  with  an  automatic  valve  and  an  anti-clog  noz- 
zle, then  the  starting  and  stopping  of  the  spray  can  be 
controlled  with  your  left  hand  while  your  right  is  free  to 
manage  the  pole  and  to  direct  the  spraying. 

322 


DECEMBER:  SECOND  WEEK  323 

There  are  a  number  of  good  nozzles  on  the  market,  but 
for  operations  on  foot  under  the  trees  select  one  of  the 
goose-necked  or  angle  type.  With  this,  a  simple  turn  of 
the  wrist  will  direct  the  spray  in  any  desired  direction  and 
save  a  great  deal  of  shifting  from  one  side  of  the  branch  or 
tree  to  the  other.  A  cup-shaped  washer  of  stiff  leather, 
three  or  four  inches  in  diameter,  that  will  slip  tightly  over 
the  pole,  will  keep  the  spray  material  from  running  down 
the  pole  and  up  your  sleeve;  and  a  wooden  handle  made 
of  soft  pine,  bored  out  just  large  enough  to  fit  snugly  over 
the  spray  pipe,  and  held  in  any  desired  position  by  a  set 
screw  (made  of  any  ordinary  screw  with  the  end  squared  off), 
will  make  the  handling  of  the  pole  more  convenient.  These 
can  be  made  with  jackknife  and  bitstock. 

The  Pests  to  Spray  For 

The  orchard  pests  that  we  can  fight  successfully  in  winter 
are  the  various  scales  and  scabs,  though  spraying  now 
will  help  to  control  a  number  of  the  other  insect  pests,  and 
will  check  still  others  by  destroying  cocoons,  egg  masses  or 
dormant  larvae.  Some  of  the  scales  are  rather  hard  to  find 
and  all  are  very  small  and  innocent  looking  in  comparison 
with  the  serious  damage  they  can  accomplish.  Here  are 
some  of  the  things  to  spray  for: 

San  Jose  scale,  which  is  about  the  size  and  shape  of  the 
head  of  a  small  pin,  with  a  miniature  " crater"  at  the  center 
of  a  full-grown  specimen.  When  they  have  been  allowed  to 
multiply  unchecked,  plainly  discernible  colonies,  or  small 
patches  of  "crust,"  form  on  the  branches.  If  any  of  your 
fruit  showed  small  red-rimmed  spots  last  fall  they  were 
the  trade-mark  of  the  San  Jose  scale. 

Oyster-shell  scale  forms  colonies  that  incrust  small  apple 
twigs  and  make  patches  on  the  larger  limbs  like  the  fore- 
going. The  scale,  however,  is  of  a  different  form,  being 
something  the  shape  of  an  oyster  shell,  with  a  distinct  point 
or  head  at  one  end. 

Scurfy  scale,  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  long,  resembles 


324       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

the  oyster-shell  scale,  but  underneath  the  minute  crust 
you  may  find  small  purplish-colored  eggs. 

Cottony  maple  scale  attacks  not  only  maples  but  numer- 
ous other  ornamental  trees.  In  early  spring  or  summer  it 
resembles  small  tufts  of  cotton  at  the  outer  ends  of  the 
branches.  It  winters  over  as  an  inconspicuous  brown  scale 
on  the  rough  bark  of  larger  limbs  and  branches. 

Rose  scale  resembles  the  scurfy  scale,  but  is  lighter  in 
color  and  attacks  roses  and  cane  fruits. 

The  saw  fly  has  greenish,  spiny  larvae  that  feed  upon 
the  leaves  of  the  cane  fruits.  It  is  susceptible  to  winter 
spraying. 

Winter  Sprays  and  Spraying 

The  two  specifics  for  winter  spraying  are  lime-sulphur 
wash  and  miscible  oil  preparations.  For  use  in  the  small  or- 
chard it  is  generally  more  convenient  to  buy  sprays  ready 
to  dilute  with  water  than  to  attempt  to  mix  them  at  home. 
If  you  are  not  familiar  with  the  different  brands  it  will  be  a 
good  plan  to  write  to  your  experiment  station  for  advice. 

If  you  prefer  to  make  your  own  lime-sulphur  boil  for  an 
hour  in  an  iron  kettle  four  pounds  of  lump  lime,  three 
pounds  of  flowers  of  sulphur  and  five  gallons  of  water, 
adding  five  gallons  more  water  when  ready  to  spray. 
Spraying  is  done  preferably  before  the  mixture  has  entirely 
cooled.  A  "  self  -boiled "  mixture  may  be  made  by  using 
lump  lime,  flowers  of  sulphur  and  water  in  the  proportion 
of  eight  each  of  lime  and  sulphur  and  fifty  gallons  of  water. 
Slake  the  lime  in  a  little  warm  water,  and  when  it  is  slaking 
freely  sift  in  the  sulphur  and  stir  thoroughly  until  a  thick 
paste  results.  Keep  it  covered  until  it  is  through  " boiling" 
and  then  cool  down  with  the  remainder  of  the  water,  and 
use  as  soon  as  possible. 

Success  in  spraying — with  a  reliable  mixture — depends 
entirely  upon  the  thoroughness  of  the  job.  Every  square 
inch  of  surface  and  each  crack  and  crevice  must  be  entirely 


PLATE  28.— New  trees  from  old!  First:  tall,  brushy  apple  tree,  the 
result  of  several  years'  neglect.  Second:  after  the  first  pruning,  top  low- 
ered, decayed  and  surplus  wood  removed. 


PLATE  29. — New  trees  from  old!  Third:  Two  years  later:  many,  vigorous 
new,  young  branches,  again  beginning  to  get  crowded.  Fourth:  Pruned  again; 
much  of  the  old  wood  left  the  first  time,  removed;  a  "head"  of  healthy,  young 
wood,  that  can  be  trained  into  a  low,  spreading  tree,  on  the  old  foundation. 


DECEMBER:  SECOND  WEEK  325 

covered  or  the  work  will  avail  little.  San  Jose  scale,  for 
instance,  reproduces  at  the  rate  of  about  three  billions  a 
year;  so  a  comparatively  few  scales  left  by  careless  spraying 
will  very  quickly  get  the  tree  back  into  as  bad  condition 
as  it  was  before.  One  decided  advantage  that  the  miscible 
oils  have  over  the  lime-sulphur  is  that  they  spread  and 
work  more  thoroughly  into  the  crevices  and  under  rough- 
nesses of  the  bark. 


The  Important  Work  of  Winter  Pruning 

Just  as  important  as  the  spraying  is  the  winter  job  of 
pruning.  With  the  exception  of  a  number  of  the  flowering 
shrubs  growing  in  borders  or  masses,  and  a  few  of  the  orna- 
mental trees,  every  tree,  bush  and  brier  on  the  place  re- 
quires attention  in  this  regard  if  you  aim  for  the  best  results. 
It  is  possible  to  keep  them  healthy  without  pruning,  but 
you  cannot  get  the  best  quality  or  the  biggest  quantity  of 
fruit  or  flowers  by  letting  the  trees  and  shrubs  alone.  The 
plants  will  produce  too  much  wood  and  consequently  more 
buds  than  they  can  develop. 

The  equipment  required  for  pruning  is  even  more  simple 
than  the  necessary  spraying  outfit — a  sharp  knife,  a  wide- 
set  cutting-off  saw,  and  a  stepladder  or  light,  long  ladder. 
If  you  are  going  to  buy  any  special  tools  a  combined  pole 
saw  and  pruning  knife  may  be  had  for  $1.75,  and  will 
enable  you  to  handle  ordinary-sized  trees  from  the  ground 
and  to  do  the  work  very  quickly.  A  pair  of  pruning  shears, 
costing  from  fifty  cents  up,  is  also  a  great  convenience. 
Specially  prepared  creosote  or  tree  paint  may  be  had  at 
a  reasonable  price,  but  ordinary  outside  heavy  lead  paint 
will  do.  All  branches  more  than  an  inch  and  a  half  in 
diameter  should,  after  being  sawed  off,  be  painted  over 
to  prevent  decay  before  the  bark  has  a  chance  to  grow  over 
the  wound. 

The  first  thing  to  remove  in  all  pruning  operations  is 
dead,  decaying,  bruised  or  diseased  wood.  What  you 
should  cut  away  in  addition  to  that  will  depend  upon  the 


326      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

nature  of  the  tree  or  shrub  being  pruned,  and  the  result 
you  are  after.  As  a  general  rule,  the  danger  is  that  you 
will  do  too  little  rather  than  too  much  pruning.  When  in 
doubt  cut  it  off! 

The  amount  of  winter  pruning  that  should  be  done  on 
your  fruit  trees  depends  upon  their  age  and  previous  treat- 
ment. Newly  planted  apple,  pear,  peach  and  cherry  trees 
will  require  very  little  pruning  if  they  were  properly  cut 
back  when  planted.  From  those  that  have  been  planted 
several  years  superfluous  crossing  limbs  should  be  cut, 
and  lateral  growth,  which  will  tend  to  form  spreading, 
open  heads,  should  be  encouraged.  Peach  trees  in  bearing 
should  be  cut  back  severely.  Old  trees,  especially  apple 
trees,  may  be  cut  back  very  severely  to  advantage,  but  it 
is  best  to  spread  the  pruning  over  two  or  three  seasons 
unless  a  fair  amount  of  good,  live  wood  can  be  left  to  prevent 
too  severe  checking  of  growth. 

Remaking  an  Old  Apple  Tree 

Illustrations  Number  28  and  29  show  a  middle-aged 
apple  tree  that  had  grown  practically  no  good  fruit  for 
a  number  of  years.  It  bore  well  the  first  year  after  prun- 
ing and  spraying  and  has  since  come  back  very  satis- 
factorily. In  cases  of  this  kind  some  of  the  larger  sprouts 
or  small,  new,  upright  limbs  are  left  to  develop  into  new 
wood;  then  after  these  have  had  two  or  three  seasons' 
growth  more  of  the  older  wood  may  be  cut  away.  Prac- 
tically any  old  apple  tree  that  is  not  entirely  gone  at  the 
heart  can  be  saved  and  with  a  few  years'  care  made  to  pro- 
duce excellent  fruit. 

In  all  pruning  of  old  trees  try  to  re-form  the  tree  as  near 
>the  ground  as  possible,  in  order  to  facilitate  spraying  and 
picking  of  the  fruit.  Old  trees  that  are  up  in  the  air  alto- 
gether can  be  brought  back  into  captivity  only  by  "  dehorn- 
ing." This  process  leaves  nothing  but  the  main  trunk  and 
the  stubs  of  the  main  branches,  the  idea  being  to  form 
practically  an  entirely  new  head  upon  this  skeleton.  Gen- 


DECEMBER:  SECOND  WEEK  327 

erally  only  a  half  or  a  third  of  the  tree  should  be  so  treated 
at  one  cutting,  and  some  experienced  person  should  be  con- 
sulted if  this  form  of  treatment  is  to  be  attempted. 

Drastic  Treatment  for  the  Cane  Fruits 

The  cane  fruits — raspberries,  blackberries,  dewberries, 
and  the  various  hybrids  recently  introduced — should  also 
be  severely  pruned,  or  rather  thinned.  Next  season's  crop 
of  fruit  will  be  borne  on  canes  produced  this  year.  Old 
ones  should  all  be  cut  out  clean  now  if  this  has  not  already 
been  attended  to;  the  others  should  be  shortened  back 
slightly  to  lessen  the  chance  of  their  being  injured  by 
whipping  about  in  strong  winds.  Have  your  hands  and 
wrists  well  protected  when  you  tackle  this  job.  In  very 
cold  climates  it  is  necessary  to  lay  down  the  more  tender 
varieties,  and  in  some  cases  even  to  cover  them  with  earth 
to  protect  them  during  the  winter. 

These  things  are  prickly,  but  some  of  the  gooseberries 
are  more  so;  yet  they  need  severe  pruning,  not  only  to  pro- 
duce better  fruit,  but  to  make  sure  of  any  at  all.  Branches 
that  bend  over  and  touch  the  soil  should  be  cut  off,  and 
the  plants  should  be  kept  very  open  so  that  light  and  air 
can  get  to  every  part  of  them,  as  they  are  very  susceptible 
to  mildew.  Currants  will  continue  to  bear  year  after 
year  even  if  they  are  not  pruned,  but  the  quality  of  the 
fruit  will  be  very  greatly  improved  if  the  bushes  are  kept 
quite  severely  cut  back.  The  best  fruit  is  borne  on  wood 
that  is  two  or  three  seasons  old,  therefore  in  pruning  cut 
out  any  surplus  new  growth  of  the  present  season  and  wood 
that  is  four  years  or  more  old.  Examine  the  remaining 
canes  carefully  for  the  borer. 

Winter  Pruning  of  Shrubs  and  Roses 

Single  or  specimen!  shrubs  should,  after  several  years' 
growth,  have  a  little  of  the  old  wood  cut  out  each  year  to 
prevent  overcrowding.  The  longer  branches  should  be 


328       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

headed  in  to  maintain  symmetrical  shape.  Regular  prun- 
ing of  rose  bushes  should  be  given  in  the  spring.  All  that 
they  require  now  is  the  heading  in  of  any  long,  new  canes 
that  are  likely  to  be  beaten  about  in  the  winter's  storms. 
In  pruning  shrubs  at  this  time  of  the  year  it  is  well  not  to 
touch  any  of  those  that  bloom  in  spring  or  early  summer, 
as  the  flower  buds  are  already  formed  for  next  year,  and 
whatever  wood  is  cut  away  will  mean  a  corresponding  loss 
in  blossoms. 

Keep  a  sharp  lookout  for  the  egg  masses  and  cocoons  of 
caterpillar  or  insect  pests  in  your  section.  If  you  are  not 
familiar  with  their  winter  costumes  your  state  experiment 
station  probably  has  a  bulletin  describing  them.  The  tent 
caterpillar,  which  for  the  last  two  years  has  denuded  wild 
cherries  and  unprotected  apple  trees  throughout  large  sec- 
tions of  the  country,  may  readily  be  destroyed  in  winter. 


December:  Third  Week 

THE  CARE  OF  GIFT  PLANTS  AFTER  CHRISTMAS: 
HOW  TO  KEEP  THEM  IN  GOOD  CONDITION 
AND  SAVE  THEM  FOR  ANOTHER  YEAR. 
PICK  OUT  SHRUBS  FOR  WINTER  BEAUTY 
NOW 

It  would  be  an  interesting  job  for  an  energetic  statis- 
tician to  figure  out  how  many  thousand  dollars'  worth  of 
potted  plants  and  flowers  annually  find  their  way  from  the 
florists'  shops  to  the  ash  barrels  during  the  brief  holiday 
period.  Part  of  this  loss  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  plants 
used  are  unsuitable  for  saving  for  further  use;  but  by  far 
the  greater  part  is  due  to  the  recipients'  lack  of  knowledge 
as  to  how  the  plants  should  be  cared  for.  If  you  yourself 
give  plants  as  presents  select  the  more  substantial  sorts, 
which  may  be  kept  for  a  season  or  for  several  years.  Many 
of  the  plants  that  the  florists  display  at  Christmas  have 
been  in  preparation  for  a  year  or  more,  and  with  proper 
care  most  of  them  can  be  kept  in  good  condition. 

Azaleas  are  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  many 
beautiful  holiday  plants,  but  since  their  requirements  are 
different  from  those  of  ordinary  house  plants,  most  of  them 
perish  immediately.  A  good  azalea  costs  the  person  who 
gives  it  to  you  several  dollars;  it  is  worth  saving,  especially 
since,  with  proper  care,  it  may  be  made  to  increase  in  beauty 
for  several  years. 

After  you  have  removed  the  florist's  careful  wrappings 
and  examined  the  little  card  dangling  from  a  lower  branch, 
do  not  leave  your  azalea  in  the  superheated  atmosphere 
of  the  living-room,  to  be  forgotten  during  the  excitements 
of  the  following  days.  The  little  tree  may  be  covered 
with  blooms,  and  you  will  probably  find  that  it  also  con- 

329 


330      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

tains  a  number  of  buds.  If  you  do  not  take  care  of  the 
plant  these  will  wither  and  drop  off,  though  with  reasonable 
treatment  they  should  nearly  all  make  flowers  for  some 
weeks  to  come. 

Keep  your  azalea  in  a  cool  place — that  is  the  first  step 
toward  preserving  it.  There  is  very  little  danger  of  its 
being  too  cool.  Give  it  plenty  of  fresh  air;  there  is  no 
danger  of  giving  it  too  much  so  long  as  direct  cold  drafts 
are  avoided.  A  gas-laden  atmosphere  will  very  quickly 
ruin  such  blossoms  and  buds  as  there  may  be. 

By  all  means  guard  against  the  plant's  drying  out;  it 
will  require,  while  blooming,  an  abundance  of  water.  The 
soil  in  which  azaleas  are  potted  is  of  such  color  and  texture 
that  it  does  not  show  lack  of  moisture  so  plainly  as  that 
used  for  other  potted  plants;  furthermore,  the  fibrous 
roots  are  so  thickly  matted  as  to  make  the  soil  almost 
impervious  to  water  once  it  becomes  dry.  The  surest  and 
easiest  way  to  get  the  soil  moist  is  to  set  the  whole  pot  in 
a  basin  or  a  tub  of  water  until  it  has  absorbed  all  that  it 
will.  If  the  flowers  begin  to  fade  it  is  a  pretty  sure  sign 
that  the  soil  is  getting  too  dry. 

To  Make  Azaleas  Bloom  Again 

So  much  for  saving  the  flowers  and  buds  that  are  on  the 
azalea  when  you  get  it.  An  equally  beautiful  display 
during  a  large  part  of  next  winter  is  quite  possible,  but 
you  should  make  preparations  for  next  year's  blooms  as 
soon  as  this  year's  wither  and  fall.  Secure  from  a  neighbor- 
ing florist,  or  mix  for  yourself,  a  soil  made  up  of  sand,  leaf 
mold  and  garden  loam  in  equal  proportions,  with  rotted 
peat  added  to  about  double  the  bulk.  Shift  the  plant  to  a 
pot  only  about  one  size  larger  than  that  in  which  it  has 
been  growing.  Have  the  new  pot  thoroughly  crocked  or 
drained,  preferably  with  charcoal.  Break  up  the  old  ball 
of  roots  with  the  fingers,  and  shake  off  or  wash  off  a  good 
part  of  the  soil.  Place  it  in  position  in  the  new  pot,  sift 
in  a  little  of  the  prepared  earth  round  it,  and  ram  it  dowq 


DECEMBER:  THIRD  WEEK  331 

hard  with  a  blunt  stick  or  the  handle  of  a  trowel;  put  in 
another  layer  of  soil  and  treat  it  the  same  way.  There  is 
not  much  danger  that  you  will  pack  the  soil  too  hard,  but 
there  is  much  danger  that  you  will  not  get  it  firm  enough. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  cover  the  plant  any  deeper  than  it 
was  covered  before;  a  few  of  the  roots  may  show  at  the 
surface  where  they  join  the  stem,  but  instead  of  hilling  up 
round  them  let  the  earth  slope  up  toward  the  edge  of  the 
pot,  leaving  a  depression  at  the  center.  This  will  be  a  help 
in  keeping  the  earth  ball  thoroughly  wet. 

After  repotting  the  plant  give  it  a  thorough  watering; 
then  withhold  water  for  a  week  or  so,  but  give  the  foliage 
a  daily  sprinkling  or  syringing.  When  the  plant  begins 
to  show  signs  of  new  growth  give  more  water  round  the 
roots,  meantime  keeping  it  in  a  shady  place  and  not  too 
warm.  If  it  requires  trimming  into  shape  cut  it  back 
before  new  wood  begins  to  form.  As  soon  as  it  becomes 
established  in  the  new  pot  keep  it  where  it  will  get  an 
abundance  of  light  and  fresh  air.  Do  not  let  it  lack  for 
water,  and  as  soon  as  the  weather  is  warm  enough  in  spring 
it  may  be  plunged  into  the  shrubbery  border  or  some  place 
near  the  house  where  it  will  be  in  partial  shade  during  the 
heat  of  the  day,  and  where  it  may  be  easily  cared  for. 
Take  it  into  the  house  again  just  before  freezing  weather, 
keep  it  cool  until  you  are  ready  to  force  it  into  flower  again, 
and  then  give  a  little  more  heat  and  moisture.  Apply 
liquid  manure  or  nitrate  of  soda  as  the  buds  begin  to  swell. 

Araucarias,  Begonias,  and  Cyclamens. 

The  Araucaria,  or  Norfolk  Island  Pine,  has  become  a 
favorite  Christmas  plant.  This  is  as  often  killed  by  over- 
care  as  is  the  azalea  by  neglect.  When  it  comes  to  you  at 
Christmas,  instead  of  being  at  the  height  of  its  season  of 
active  growth,  like  the  azalea,  it  is  at  the  middle  of  its 
natural  dormant  period.  Instead  of  the  high  temperature 
and  abundance  of  water  that  are  usually  given,  it  should 
be  kept  in  as  cool  a  position  as  possible  and  watered  very 


332       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

sparingly.  Early  in  spring  it  may  be  plunged  into  the 
ground  out  of  doors.  This  is  the  time  to  repot  it  if  repotting 
is  necessary.  Use  a  soil  of  half  loam  and  half  leaf  mold  and 
sand  mixed  together.  A  handful  of  unleached  wood  ashes 
will  be  beneficial. 

The  beautiful  Lorraine  begonia  frequently  coaxes  the 
dollar  out  of  the  pocket  of  the  Christmas  shopper.  Un- 
fortunately it  is  not  well  suited  to  house  conditions,  but 
if  you  have  one  do  the  best  you  can  with  it.  This  plant 
should  remain  in  flower  for  a  long  time.  See  that  it  has 
plenty  of  water,  is  protected  from  sudden  changes  in  tem- 
perature and  from  gas,  and  is  kept  in  a  room  where  the  air 
is  as  moist  as  possible.  Many  of  the  other  begonias  make 
ideal  plants  for  growing  in  the  house,  and  when  well  flow- 
ered are  unsurpassed  as  Christmas  gifts. 

A  well-flowered  cyclamen  vies  with  the  azalea  in  profu- 
sion and  beauty  of  bloom,  and  it  may  be  kept  without  much 
trouble  from  year  to  year,  increasing  in  size  and  beauty. 
If  it  is  just  beginning  to  bloom  it  should  continue  to  send 
out  buds  and  flowers  for  a  long  time.  The  plants  of  this 
kind  sold  at  Christmas  are  usually  twelve  to  fourteen 
months  old  from  seed,  and  are  having  their  first  crop  of 
flowers.  Keep  them  very  cool — as  low  as  fifty  degrees  at 
night  will  not  hurt — well  supplied  with  water,  and  watch 
them  carefully  for  the  green  fly.  When  the  crop  of  flowers 
seems  exhausted  and  the  leaves  begin  to  turn  old  and 
yellow  gradually  withhold  the  water  and  dry  off  the  "bulbs  " 
to  give  them  a  resting  period  before  starting  new  growth 
preparatory  to  next  season's  bloom.  They  may  be  kept 
in  the  pot  or  repotted  in  soil  of  the  same  character,  but 
the  so-called  "bulbs"  should  not  be  allowed  to  dry  out 
enough  to  shrivel.  As  soon  as  they  show  signs  of  making 
new  growth,  give  more  water  and  light.  During  the  sum- 
mer keep  the  plants  outdoors  in  a  cool,  shady  position, 
where  they  may  be  given  plenty  of  water.  Sprinkle  to- 
bacco dust  freely  to  keep  off  aphids.  As  the  new  bud 


DECEMBER:  THIRD  WEEK  333 

stalks  begin   to   form,   occasional   applications  of  liquid 
manure  will  add  greatly  to  the  strength  of  the  plants. 

Roses  as  House  Plants 

The  dwarf  roses  make  charming  pot  plants  and  are  coming 
into  more  favor  each  year.  A  number  of  them  are  adap- 
ted to  house  culture  and  flower  almost  all  the  year  round. 
A  number  of  other  roses  are  used  for  Christmas  sale,  but 
unless  they  happen  to  be  of  the  very  few  varieties  adapted 
to  withstand  the  hardships  of  house  culture  there  is  not  much 
hope  of  having  them  for  another  season's  bloom  indoors. 

The  greatest  drawback  to  growing  roses  successfully  in 
the  house  is  the  dry  atmosphere.  The  plants  must  be 
kept  clean  by  syringing  the  foliage  frequently.  Cold  drafts 
or  any  sudden  drops  in  temperature  must  be  avoided,  as 
these  usually  result  in  injury  to  the  foliage  through  mildew. 
All  the  care  needed  by  the  dwarf  roses  is  the  cutting  out 
of  old  flower  spurs,  an  occasional  repotting,  and,  for  an 
abundance  of  bloom,  the  use  once  in  a  while  of  liquid 
manure,  bone  flour  or  wood  ashes  worked  lightly  into  the  top 
of  the  soil.  In  addition  to  the  Baby  Rambler,  and  several 
of  the  other  "Baby"  roses,  La  France,  Hermosa,  Agrippina, 
Clothilde  Soupert  and  Maman  Cochet,  both  white  and 
pink,  may  with  care  be  grown  in  the  house. 

One  way  of  handling  roses  is  to  cut  back  the  old  wood 
quite  severely  when  they  are  through  blooming,  and  to 
keep  them  rather  dry  and  cool  so  they  will  remain  dormant 
during  summer.  In  early  fall  start  them  into  growth  and 
take  them  into  the  house  as  cold  weather  approaches;  or 
they  may  be  plunged  into  the  ground  outside  and  allowed 
to  grow  through  the  summer  until  the  leaves  drop.  Then 
they  should  be  put  where  they  may  be  brought  into  the 
living-room  and  given  heat  and  water  when  desired.  Slight 
freezing  in  the  meantime  will  not  hurt  them,  but  it  is  better 
to  keep  them  in  boxes  rather  than  in  pots,  both  because 
the  earth  may  be  maintained  in  a  more  even  state  of  mois- 
ture, and  because  there  is  no  danger  of  boxes  cracking  in 
case  of  a  freeze. 


334       AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Callas,  Ferns,  and  Daisies 

Most  of  the  many  bulbs  forced  into  flower  for  Christmas 
are  of  no  further  use  in  the  house  after  we  have  done  what 
we  can  to  prolong  their  blossoming  season.  The  old  favor- 
ite callas,  however,  are  an  exception  to  this  rule.  They 
are  rank  feeders  and  appreciate  frequent  applications  of 
liquid  manure,  but  are  not  otherwise  exacting  in  their 
demands  so  long  as  they  have  plenty  of  sunlight  and  water 
and  are  kept  free  from  green  aphids.  The  more  sunshine 
and  heat  they  can  get  the  better  they  will  like  it.  Dry  off 
gradually,  and  let  the  bulb  rest  during  the  summer  by  turn- 
ing the  pot  on  its  side  in  some  shaded  spot  and  leaving  it 
there  until  about  August.  Then  start  it  into  growth  again, 
repotting  it  first  in  soil  that  is  about  a  third  well-rotted 
manure,  preferably  cow  manure. 

The  various  ferns,  which  also  are  very  popular  as  Christ- 
mas gifts,  are  particularly  satisfactory  in  positions  where 
full  sunlight  cannot  be  given.  They  do  best  in  compara- 
tively cool  rooms,  and  do  not  require  very  frequent  water- 
ing during  the  winter  months.  They  should  be  watched 
carefully,  however,  and  not  allowed  to  dry  out,  as  they 
may  be  considerably  damaged  before  the  foliage  begins  to 
show  it. 

A  number  of  the  daisies  and  the  Jerusalem  cherry  are 
used  quite  extensively  as  Christmas  plants.  Though  not 
so  beautiful  as  some  of  the  foregoing,  they  are  very  bright 
and  attractive  and  with  any  sort  of  care  will  thrive,  even 
when  the  temperature  occasionally  drops  quite  low. 

Shrubs  to  Add  Winter  Beauty  to  the  Place 

Though  no  transplanting  and  setting  out  of  shrubs  may 
be  done  at  this  season  of  the  year,  there  is  no  other  time  so 
good  for  selecting  shrubs  to  give  life  and  color  to  your 
winter  landscape.  If  possible  -visit  some  nursery,  where 


DECEMBER:  THIRD  WEEK  335 

you  can  compare  the  various  things  that  are  valuable 
for  winter  foliage,  berries  or  bark,  and  plan  a  selection  to 
meet  your  own  requirements. 

The  various  evergreens,  low  and  tall,  command  first  at- 
tention. Green,  golden  and  silvery  foliage  can  be  had  in 
the  retinispora,  thuja  and  juniper,  and  in  the  taller  pine, 
hemlock  and  spruce.  The  red  Siberian  dogwood  is  one  of 
the  most  showy  of  all  the  colored-bark  shrubs.  The  willow 
family  has  a  number  of  members  with  attractive  yellow 
bark,  including  some  of  the  common  native  sorts.  And 
our  beautiful  native  birches  are  in  many  localities  free  for 
the  taking. 

Among  the  winter  berried  shrubs  are  the  barberry,  snow- 
berry,  Indian  currant,  rugosa  rose,  viburnum  and  euony- 
mus,  to  mention  a  half  dozen  of  the  best.  None  of  these 
things  is  expensive,  with  the  exception  of  some  of  the 
evergreens.  A  little  planning  now,  and  a  few  dollars  in- 
vested next  spring  or  fall,  will  enable  you  to  add  perma- 
nently to  the  winter  beauty  and  attractiveness  of  your 
place. 


December:  Fourth  Week 

STARTING  PLANTS  FOR  NEXT  SUMMER'S 
FLOWER  GARDEN:  HOW  TO  MAKE  AND  ROOT 
CUTTINGS;  POTTING  AND  CARE 

About  the  turn  of  the  year  you  must  begin  to  take 
thought  for  a  supply  of  plants  for  next  summer's  flower 
garden.  The  chief  advantage  of  growing  one's  own  plants 
is  the  fun  of  doing  it.  In  addition,  there  is  the  pleasure  of 
being  able  to  perpetuate  some  favorite  flower  that  cannot 
be  duplicated  when  one  buys  plants  in  the  spring.  In  a  very 
limited  amount  of  space  it  is  possible  to  start  plants  which, 
if  bought  in  the  bedding  season,  would  cost  several  dollars. 

Select  such  of  your  own  plants  as  you  care  to  propagate. 
To  start  a  couple  of  hundred  plants  takes  little  room,  for 
they  may  be  placed,  at  first,  about  as  close  together  as  you 
can  pack  them.  Do  not,  however,  be  tempted  to  start 
more  than  you  can  care  for  properly  afterward,  for  each 
cutting  after  it  is  rooted  will  have  to  be  given  at  least  four 
square  inches  of  room,  whether  it  is  placed  in  a  pot  or  in  a 
flat;  and  within  a  few  more  weeks  it  will  need  twice  as  much 
room.  By  the  time  the  second  shift  is  required,  however, 
some  of  the  plants  can  usually  be  put  into  a  hot-bed  or  a 
cold-frame  or  placed  in  sunny  windows,  as  there  will  be  little 
danger  of  their  being  pinched  by  extremely  cold  nights. 

If  your  plants  are  in  the  right  condition  your  cuttings 
may  be  prepared  at  any  time  and  rooted  at  once.  Often, 
however,  it  is  desirable  to  start  the  plants  into  more  active 
growth  before  the  cuttings  are  taken.  Plants  of  all  kinds 
require  a  resting  period  or  vacation  some  time  during  the 
year.  During  this  period  growth  is  checked.  Softwood 
cuttings  from  plants  in  this  condition  are  not  so  likely  to 
root  readily  as  cuttings  from  plants  in  active  growth.  It  is 

336 


PLATE  30. — Here  is  a  batch  of  fifteen  geranium  cuttings  obtained  from  the 
two  plants  shown  in  plate  31  opposite  page  337.  A  second  lot  was  ready  a 
few  weeks  later.  (Lower]  Two  begonia  cuttings.  The  one  at  the  left  has  just 
begun  to  throw  out  its  new  roots  and  is  ready  to  pot  up.  That  on  the  right 
has  been  left  in  the  cutting  bed  rather  too  long,  and  many  of  the  roots  had  to 
be  broken  off  in  taking  it  up.  Try  to  pot  up  your  cuttings  before  the  new 
roots  get  over  half  an  inch  in  length. 


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f    V    U 


DECEMBER:  FOURTH  WEEK  337 

best,  therefore,  before  taking  cuttings  to  start  up  into  active 
growth  any  plants  that  may  be  resting.  This  is  accom- 
plished, of  course,  by  giving  them  more  water  and  warmth 
and  a  little  fertilizer,  and  by  repotting,  if  that  is  required. 
Abnormal  conditions,  such  as  too  much  heat  or  too  much 
stimulation,  should,  however,  be  avoided,  as  new  growth 
that  is  soft,  watery  and  weak  is  just  as  worthless  as  that 
which  is  too  old. 

The  wood  where  the  cutting  is  to  be  taken  should  be 
plump  and  firm,  but  not  hard.  Of  course  the  degree  of 
firmness  varies  in  different  plants.  In  a  coleus  or  a  snap- 
dragon it  may  be  comparatively  soft,  while  in  a  geranium  it 
is  much  harder. 

The  Snapping  Test 

You  can  determine  when  wood  is  in  the  right  condition  by 
applying  the  snapping  test.  This  consists  simply  of  bending 
the  branch  or  shoot  between  the  thumb  and  fingers  to  a  right 
angle.  If  the  wood  snaps,  but  does  not  break  clear  off,  it  is 
in  the  right  condition.  If  it  merely  bends  it  is  too  young  or 
soft.  If  the  bark  cracks,  but  the  interior  fibers  do  not  part, 
it  is  too  old  and  tough.  Often  all  three  conditions  of  wood 
may  be  found  on  the  same  shoot,  the  tip  being  too  soft  and 
the  lower  joints  too  hard,  while  the  middle  is  in  just  the 
proper  condition  to  make  one  or  more  cuttings. 

As  one  of  the  most  effective  methods  of  starting  plants 
into  active  new  growth  is  pruning  or  cutting  them  back, 
you  can  often  get  a  small  supply  of  cuttings  from  the 
ripened  but  not  hardened  terminal  shoots  or  branches  of  the 
plants  that  are  cut  back,  and  a  second  supply  a  few  weeks 
later  when  the  plants  brought  into  active  growth  have  pro- 
duced new  supplies  of  wood  suitable  for  the  purpose. 

This  plan  is  especially  good  when  space  is  limited  during 
the  early  spring  months.  Some  plants  will  be  in  bloom 
ready  to  set  out  at  the  beginning  of  the  bedding  season; 
others  will  come  out  and  bloom  freely  during  the  latter  part 
of  the  summer  and  early  fall;  and  still  others,  which  should 


338      AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

be  kept  disbudded  in  summer,  will  bloom  inside  during  the 
fall  and  winter. 

The  operation  of  making  the  cuttings  is  very  simple.  Use 
a  sharp  knife,  so  that  it  will  make  a  clean,  neat  cut,  leaving 
no  bruises  or  ragged  edges.  The  cuttings  should  be  made, 
for  most  kinds  of  plants,  from  two  to  four  or  five  inches 
long.  If  the  wood  is  in  the  right  condition  several  may  be 
made  from  the  same  branch.  The  cutting  may  be  taken  off 
just  below  a  joint  or  between  the  joints,  depending  on  where 
the  wood  is  the  best.  If  it  is  cut  off  slightly  slanting  the 
slip  may  be  more  readily  pushed  down  into  the  sand,  but 
it  will  root  just  as  well  if  cut  straight  across.  The  leaves 
should  be  removed  from  the  lower  part  of  the  cutting,  and 
those  near  the  top,  if  large,  should  be  cut  back  about  half. 
This  is  to  lessen  the  possibility  of  their  wilting,  which  should 
be  guarded  against  while  the  cutting  is  forming  new  roots. 
Cuttings  or  slips  are  sometimes  broken  off,  instead  of  cut  off, 
and  though  they  frequently  root,  this  is  not  so  sure  a 
method  as  the  other.  In  early  summer,  when  conditions 
are  favorable,  whole  branches  of  geraniums  that  have  been 
accidentally  broken  off  may  be  rooted  by  simply  sticking 
them  into  the  moist  soil  of  the  bed  out-of-doors.  After 
cuttings  have  been  made  they  may  be  kept  a  reasonable 
length  of  time  before  being  used,  but  they  should  not  be 
exposed  to  hot  sunshine  or  allowed  to  become  dry.  If  they 
are  wilted  badly  when  ready  to  be  used  they  may  be  revived 
by  allowing  them  to  soak  in  clear,  cold  water. 

If  the  plants  from  which  the  cuttings  are  taken  are  in- 
fested with  insects  or  scale  of  any  kind  get  the  cuttings 
absolutely  clean  before  you  attempt  to  root  them.  This 
may  be  accomplished  by  dipping  them  quickly  several 
times  in  water  heated  to  about  150  degrees,  or  by  rinsing 
them  in  a  nicotine  spray  solution,  and  rinsing  them  after- 
ward, in  either  case,  in  clear,  cold  water.  As  a  rule,  how- 
ever, cuttings  should  be  taken  only  from  perfectly  healthy 
plants  in  vigorous  condition  of  growth. 


DECEMBER:  FOURTH  WEEK  339 

Starting  the  Cuttings 

The  cuttings  may  be  rooted  in  any  of  several  ways.  A 
room  or  place  where  a  fairly  even  temperature  may  be  main- 
tained is  necessary.  Plants  that  start  in  a  moderate  tem- 
perature are  more  likely  to  be  healthy  and  vigorous  than 
those  grown  in  a  very  warm  place.  The  temperature  should 
if  possible  be  kept  up  to  forty  or  forty-five  degrees,  though 
frequently  cuttings  will  take  root  when  the  temperature 
drops  occasionally  to  very  near  freezing  during  the  process. 

The  material  in  which  to  keep  the  cuttings  until  the  new 
roots  form  may  be  sand,  sand  and  water,  or  pure  water. 
The  former  is  generally  used,  though  the  second,  which  is 
known  as  the  saucer  system,  may  sometimes  be  used  to 
advantage  when  only  one  or  two  dozen  cuttings  are  to  be 
made.  If  sand  is  to  be  used  procure  an  ordinary  flat  or 
shallow  box,  two  or  three  inches  deep.  If  the  bottom  is 
very  tight,  bore  half  a  dozen  holes  in  it.  In  this  place  a 
layer  of  coarse  chip  dirt  or  excelsior  from  the  woodshed  and 
then  put  in  two  inches  of  clean,  medium  coarse  sand,  such 
as  masons  use.  Dirty  sand  may  be  cleansed  in  a  few  minutes 
by  placing  it  in  a  pail  and  shoving  a  piece  of  hose  through 
to  the  bottom,  letting  the  water  carry  the  impurities  off 
from  the  top.  After  thoroughly  saturating  the  sand,  let  it 
drain  to  remove  all  surplus  water,  and  then  place  the  cut- 
tings to  about  half  their  depth  in  it,  seeing  that  the  sand  is 
packed  firmly  and  closely  about  them.  Do  not  leave  them 
in  a  wabbly  state. 

By  the  second,  or  saucer,  method,  the  sand  is  placed  in  a 
shallow  glazed  bowl  or  dish  and  kept  wet  enough  so  that 
water  stands  upon  the  surface  all  the  time.  The  dish  is 
placed  in  a  warm  window  in  the  full  sunlight,  and  the  sand 
is  kept  constantly  saturated,  which  will  require  the  addition 
of  a  small  amount  of  water  each  day.  If  the  sand  once  dries 
out  the  cuttings  are  lost. 

Some  plants,  such  as  the  oleander,  that  have  compar- 
atively hard  wood  and  are  slow  in  rooting,  may  be  made 
into  long  cuttings  and  stuck  into  a  bottle  of  water  into  which 


340 


AROUND  THE  YEAR  IN  THE  GARDEN 


a  few  small  pieces  of  charcoal  have  been  dropped  to  keep  it 
pure.  One  or  the  other  of  the  foregoing  methods  is,  however, 
usually  more  satisfactory. 

For  several  days  after  the  cuttings  are  put  into  the  sand 
they  should  be  kept  shaded  during  the  hottest  part  of  the 
day.  If  they  show  any  tendency  to  wilt  give  them  an 
occasional  sprinkling  with  a  plant  sprinkler  or,  if  that  is  not 
at  hand,  with  a  clothes  sprinkler  or  a  wet  whisk  broom. 

The  sand  itself,  however, 
will  not  need  another 
watering  for  some  days — 
not  until  it  begins  to  dry 
out  on  the  surface.  The 
ends  of  the  cuttings  callus 
over  before  any  roots  be- 
come visible,  and  during 
this  stage  the  cuttings  are 
likely  to  rot  if  the  sand  is 
kept  too  moist. 

If  possible  give  the  cut- 
tings box  bottom  heat.  Set 
it  up  on  two  or  three  blocks  or  bricks  on  a  radiator,  or  sup- 
port it  over  a  register.  If  neither  of  these  is  possible  a  simple 
propagating  arrangement  may  easily  be  made  as  follows: 
Line  a  cracker  box  (A)  with  cheap  tin,  or  old  metal  roofing, 
cutting  in  the  bottom  a  number  of  large  holes  with  an  auger 
or  with  an  expansive  bit.  To  this  bottom  nail  a  six-inch 
section  of  another  cracker  box  or  a  shallow  cooky  box  (B). 
Cut  a  section  from  one  side  of  the  whole  box  for  a  door  (C), 
holding  it  in  place  with  leather  straps  or  cheap  hinges. 
Make  this  door  large  enough  to  admit  an  ordinary  hand 
lamp  (D)  or  a  small  oil  stove  so  that  it  can  be  put  in  and 
taken  out  conveniently.  Bore  a  small  hole  in  the  door  so 
you  can  see  the  flame  of  the  lamp  when  it  is  in  place. 


DECEMBER:  FOURTH  WEEK  341 

This  apparatus,  with  reasonable  care,  will  be  perfectly 
safe  and  will  not  require  attention  frequently.  If  the  lamp 
seems  to  heat  the  tin  above  it  too  much,  the  shallow  box 
may  be  raised  to  any  desired  height  on  blocks.  The  cut- 
tings box,  which  should  of  course  be  of  the  same  size  as  the 
others,  should  be  placed  on  top  of  the  second  box.  The  mild 
bottom  heat  secured  in  this  way  will  greatly  facilitate  the 
rapid  rooting  of  the  cuttings.  If  two  flats  of  cuttings  are 
to  be  rooted  they  may  be  set  crossways  of  the  box  and  any 
warm-blooded  cuttings,  such  as  heliotrope,  salvia  or  coleus 
may  be  placed  in  the  middle. 

When  the  cuttings  are  rooted,  which  will  usually  be  in  two 
to  four  weeks,  they  should  be  taken  from  the  sand  and  put 
into  pots  or  into  other  flats.  Do  not  let  the  roots  get  very 
long — a  quarter  of  an  inch  is  long  enough.  If  room  is  very 
scarce  set  the  plants  in  a  flat.  Fill  this  with  fairly  rich 
earth  containing  a  good  proportion  of  sand,  and  see  that  it  is 
well  drained.  Plant  the  little  rooted  cuttings  in  this,  about 
two  inches  apart  each  way,  shading  them  for  a  few  days 
from  the  hot  sun,  and  watering  them  sparingly  until  after 
they  have  become  established.  Or  they  may  be  put  singly 
into  two  or  two-and-a-half  inch  pots,  or  several  cuttings  may 
be  placed  in  a  four  or  five  inch  pot;  in  the  latter  case,  plant 
your  cuttings  near  the  edge  of  the  pot,  and  be  very  careful 
about  overwatering. 

Buy  Some  Novelties  Now 

If  you  want  to  keep  your  flower  garden  up  to  date  you 
will  be  interested  in  trying  several  of  the  best  of  the  novel- 
ties that  appear  from  time  to  time.  Now  is  the  proper 
time  of  the  year  to  get  at  low  prices  some  of  the  fine  new 
things  that  are  offered.  You  will  have  to  get  smaller  plants 
than  if  you  waited  until  the  bedding  season,  but  there  is 
ample  time  to  grow  them  into  good-sized  plants  before 
they  should  be  set  out.  Space  in  greenhouse,  hot-bed  or 
warm  window,  and  a  supply  of  pots  and  soil,  are  the  only 
requisites. 


INDEX 


Acid  phosphate,  53 

Air,  need  of,  in  soil,  50 

Ammoniacal  Copper  Carbonate,  no 

Annuals,  making  beds  for,  90;  start- 
ing of,  80 

Anthracnose,  137 

Aphis,  136;  (on  roses),  154 

Apple,  grafted,  distance  apart,  57; 
scab,  113;  tree,  distance  apart,  57 

Apples,  varieties  of,  60 

Araucaria,  331,  332 

Arbor  Vitae,  207 

Arsenate  of  lead,  139 

Asparagus  bed,  care  of  old  (renewing 
and  maintaining),  116;  bed,  making 
of,  92;  beetle,  118;  beetle,  136  (right 
one);  cutting  of,  117;  for  winter 
use,  313;  varieties,  23 

Aster  beetle,  136 

Asters,  early  and  late,  129 

Azalea,  care  of  flowering  plant,  329, 
330,  33i 

B 

Beans,  as  a  succession  crop,  145;  gen- 
eral suggestions,  106;  good  variety 
of,  23;  harvesting,  271;  lima,  start- 
ing of  in  pots,  106;  putting  in,  102 

Bed,  flower,  squaring  corners  of,  96; 
rose,  79 

Bedding  plants,  124  (geranium);  keep- 
ing over,  194 

Beds,  flower,  preparing,  76 

Beets,  for  winter  use,  143;  good  varie- 
ties of,  23;  growing  under  glass,  280; 
planting  of,  72;  storing  for  winter, 

273 
Begonias,  care  of,  332 


Binders,  soil,  191 

Blackberries,    distances    apart,     57; 

varieties  of,  58 
Black  rot,  114 
Blanching  celery,  187 
Blight,  137 
Blister  mite,  113 
Bone  flour,  53;  for  growing  plants, 

64 
Bordeaux  mixture,  making  of,  use  of, 

109 
Border,    hardy,    79;    preparing,    90; 

spring  work  with,  79 
Borers,  136 

Bouquet,  qualities  of  a  good,  158 
Broccoli,  varieties  of,  23,  24 
Brussels  sprouts,  for  winter  supply, 

143;  varieties  of,  23 
Buckwheat,  191 
Bud  moth,  113 
Bulb  garden,  planning,  227 
Bulbs,  best  varieties  for  forcing,  249, 

250;  depth  to  plant,  266;  fall,  226; 

fall  planting  of,   264;   forcing  for 

winter  bloom,  248;  how  to  force, 

252,  253;  method  of  planting,  228; 

number  needed,  229;  ordering,  233; 

preparation  of  soil  for  fall  planting, 

264,    265;    soil    for    forcing,    251; 

spring,  227;  winter  mulch  for,  268 


Cabbage,  for  winter  storing,  174;  for 
winter  supply,  143;  good  varieties 
of,  24;  planting  of,  72;  storing  for 
winter,  274;  the  year  around,  24 

Calks,  334 

Cane  fruit  beds,  care  of,  121;  fruits, 
pruning  and  care,  327 


343 


344 


INDEX 


Cankerworm,  113 

Carrots,  for  winter  supply,  143;  varie- 
ties of,  24;  growing  under  glass,  280; 
planting  of,  73;  storing  for  winter, 

273 

Catch  crops,  191 

Caterpillars,  136 

Cauliflower,  as  succession  crop,  145; 
varieties  of,  24;  planting  of,  73 

Celery,  183;  blanching,  273;  for  the 
winter  supply,  143;  good  varieties 
of,  25;  methods  of  blanching,  187; 
soil  for,  plants,  handling  of  plants 
in  flats,  buying  plants,  183, 184, 185, 
186,  187,  188;  storing  for  winter, 
273;  transplanting,  18;  trimming 
roots,  1 86 

Cherries,  varieties  of,  60 

Chewing  insects,  135 

Chionodoxas,  234,  268 

Chrysanthemums,  for  indoor  bloom- 
ing, 307;  time  to  select  stock,  307 

Climbing  roses,  training  of,  157 

Codling  moth,  113 

Cold  frames,  256;  repairing,  and  up- 
keep, 5;  substitutes  for,  76 

Commercial  manure,  63,  64 

Compost,  for  hotbed,  42,  43 

Concrete,  283;  forms  for,  285;  how  to 
mix,  284 

Corn,  general  suggestions,  106;  good 
varieties  of,  25;  putting  in,  102 

Cottonseed  meal,  53 

Cover  crops,  189 

Cowpeas,  as  cover  crop,  190 

Crimson  clover,  191 

Crops,  cover,  for  turning  under,  189; 
for  green  manuring,  189 

Crocuses,  234 

Cucumbers,  for  succession,  146;  varie- 
ties of,  25;  growing  under  glass, 
279;  putting  in,  102;  saving  for 
use  after  frost,  270 

Cultivation,  as  a  means  of  fighting 
drought,  148;  in  dry  weather,  148; 
late,  223;  shallow,  173;  time  of,  17, 


18;  to  retain  moisture,  148;  with 

wheel  hoe,  17 
Curculio,  113 
Currants, distances  apart, 57;  handling, 

122;  soil  for,  57;  varieties  of,  58 
Currant  worm,  113 
Curves,  road,  making  of,  96 
Cut  flowers,  keeping  fresh,  158 
Cuttings,  321,  336-341;  care  of,  101; 

handling  of,  197;  hardwood,  100; 

when  to  root,  254 
Cutworms,  136 
Cyclamen,  332 

D 

Daffodils,  230 

Dahlias,  care  of,  128;  handling  of,  128 

Dewberries,  distances  apart,  57;  varie- 
ties of,  58 

Diary,  garden,  keeping  of,  advantages 
of,  use  of,  33,  34 

Dirt  bands,  use  of,  105 

Diseases,  137, 138 

Drainage,  lawn,  201 

Dried  blood,  53 

Drought,  methods  of  fighting,  148, 149 

Dry  weather  planting,  142 

Dwarf  roses,  as  house  plants,  333 


Edging  lawn,  100 

Egg-plants,  and  peppers,  saving  for  use 

after  frost,   271;  varieties  of,  25; 

putting  in,  102,  106;  summer  care 

of,  172 

Elm-leaf  beetle,  113 
Endive,  varieties  of,  25 
Espalier,  fruit,  297 
Evergreen  shrubs,  335 
Evergreens,  planting  of,  207 


Fall  draining,  313,  314;  frosts,  pre- 
paredness for,  223;  planting,  207, 
241;  planting,  advantages  of,  235; 
plowing,  314;  sowing,  222;  trench- 
ing, 3H 


INDEX 


345 


Fence,  garden,  61 

Ferns,  as  house  plants,  334 

Fertilizers,  applying  of,  54;  com- 
plete, 50;  detailed,  189;  garden,  50; 
home  mixing,  53;  how  to  buy,  52; 
in  planting  vegetables  in  garden, 
70;  storing  of,  53 

Field  peas,  as  cover  crop,  190 

Firming  seed,  176 

Flats,  tagging  of,  40;  use  of  and  mak- 
ing, 39 

Flea  beetle,  136 

Flower  beds,  watering,  151;  garden, 
available  material  for,  46;  garden, 
planning  the,  45 

Flowers,  arrangement  of,  46;  cutting, 
158;  for  special  purposes,  47;  keep- 
ing fresh,  158 

Forcing  frames,  85 

Frames,  construction  of,  258;  cost 
of  material  for,  259;  making,  n; 
soils  for,  256,  261;  uses  of,  n;  vege- 
tables for  growing  in  frames,  259, 
260 

Frosts,  first,  223 

Fruit,  espalier  and  trained,  297;  gar- 
den, available  material  for,  56;  gar- 
den, layout  of,  56;  garden,  planning 
°f>  56,  57;  harvesting  and  storing, 
271,  272;  importance  of,  55;  trees, 
buying  of,  60;  trees,  drainage  for,  67; 
trees,  location,  58;  trees,  protec- 
tion, 312;  winter  protection,  297 

Fruits,  cane,  satisfactory  varieties,  58, 
59;  soil  for,  57;  dwarf,  distance 
apart,  57;  small,  care  of,  121;  small, 
hardiness,  55;  small,  order,  59; 
small,  propagating,  100;  small,  rea- 
sons for,  55;  soil  for,  57;  tree,  satis- 
factory varieties  of,  60;  tree,  soil 
for,  57 

Fungicides,  no 


Garden,  cleaning  up  in  the  fall,  296; 
preparing,  297 


Geraniums,  124;  good  varieties  of, 
124 

Gift  plants,  their  care,  329-334 

Glass,  laying  of,  in  greenhouse  con- 
struction, 219 

Gooseberries,  distance  apart,  57; 
handling,  122;  soil  for,  57;  varieties 

of,  59 

Grades,  construction  of,  96;  steep, 
sodding  of,  98 

Grafting,  299 

Grapes,  distances  apart,  57;  handling 
of,  122;  varieties  of,  59 

Grapevine  for  porches,  163 

Green  fly,  154 

Greenhouses,  212;  different  types  of, 
212;  gardening,  ventilation  and 
watering,  281;  heating  of,  220;  in- 
sects and  diseases  in,  281;  making 
of  small,  217;  what  can  be  grown 
in,  276;  yields  of  vegetables  that 
can  be  expected,  276 

Grounds,  home,  improving  of,  93 

Guano,  Peruvian,  64 


Hardening  off,  68,  103,  104 

Hardy  perennials,  from  seed,  166,  167, 
1 68,  169;  growing  of,  165;  plants, 
cost  of,  165 

Harvesting,  vegetables  and  fruit, 
270 

Heating  greenhouse,  220 

Hellebore,  139 

Hill  system  for  strawberries,  181 

Hills,  for  vine  crops,  115 

Hoes,  different  types,  8;  onion,  dif- 
ferent types,  9;  scuffle  attachment, 
18;  single,  wheel,  13;  warren,  19; 
wheel,  attachments  for  cultivation, 
18;  wheel,  different  types,  advan- 
tages of  each,  9,  14,  15;  wheel, 
double,  cost  of,  13,  advantages  of, 
points  in  buying,  13,  14;  wheel, 
extra  attachments,  16,  17;  wheel, 


346 


INDEX 


handling  in  garden,  16;  wheel,  use 
of,  care  of,  15 

Home  mixing,  of  fertilizers,  53 

Hose  outfit,  150 

Hot  beds,  256;  filling  of,  42, 43;  frames, 
how  to  heat,  261;  repairing  and  up- 
keep, 5 

House  plants,  288;  care  of,  290,  291; 
favorable  conditions  for,  289;  from 
cuttings,  196;  from  seed,  196;  mak- 
ing, 189;  old,  198;  shelves  for,  293; 
soil  for,  291;  temperature  for,  289 

Hyacinths,  distance  apart,  229;  varie- 
ties of,  232 


Indoor  preparation  for  spring  work, 
307,  308 

Inoculation  of  soil,  192,  193 

Insect  enemies,  320,  321;  attacking 
celery,  188;  general  classes  of,  135; 
methods  of  fighting,  138;  of  vege- 
tables and  flowers,  136;  on  plants 
in  frames,  262,  263 

Insecticides  for  vegetables  and  flow- 
ers, no,  139 

Irises,  bulbous,  267 

Iris,  handling  of,  246;  transplanting, 
267;  types  of,  245 

Iron  pipe,  for  trellises,  etc.,  287 

Irrigation,  garden,  151;  methods  of, 
150;  system,  cost  of  installing,  152 


Japanese  iris,  246 
Jonquils,  231 


Kerosene  emulsion,  no,  139 
Kohl-rabi  for  succession,  146;  varie- 
ties of,  25 


Labels,  85 
Laurel,  207 


Lawn,  amount  of  seed  required,  99; 
making  a,  200,  201,  202,  203;  re- 
making of,  99;  spring  work  with,  98, 
99 

Leaf  blight,  114;  hopper,  114,  154;  on 
roses,  154 

Lean-to  greenhouse,  making  of,  212; 
required  material,  215 

Legumes  as  cover  crops,  190 

Lettuce  for  succession,  146;  good  va- 
rieties of,  26;  growing  under  glass, 
278;  planting  of,  73;  saving  for  use 
after  frost,  274 

Lime,  need  of,  54;  test  for,  54 

Limestone,  54 

Liquid  manure,  131,  64 

Liquid  nitrate  of  soda,  64 

Lorraine  begonia,  332 


M 

Manure,  handling  of,  51;  for  growing 
plants,  63;  for  hotbed,  43,  44;  pre- 
paring for  hotbeds,  262;  substitutes 
for,  64 

Markets  for  plants,  85 

Materials  for  greenhouse  work,  225 

Matted  row  for  strawberries,  181 

Mealy  bug,  137 

Melons,  26,  102;  saving  for  use  after 
frost,  270 

Mildew,  115,  137 

Moisture,  in  soil,  need  of,  50;  retain- 
ing, 173 

Mulching,  297,  298, 302,  303,  304, 305; 
from  rose  bed,  77;  kinds  of,  149;  to 
retain  moisture,  149 

Muskmelons,  putting  in,  102;  varieties 
of,  26 

N 

Narcissi,   230;  distance   apart,    229; 

forcing,  248  et  seq. 
Nasturtiums,  good  points,  80 
Next  summer's  garden,  when  to  start, 

336 


INDEX 


347 


Nitrate  of  soda,  53;  amount  to  buy, 

uses  of,  54;  as  top  dressing,  130 
Nitrogen,  deficiency  of,  130 
Norfolk  Island  pine,  331,  332 
Nozzle-line  irrigation,  151,  152 
Novelties,  in  seeds,  22;  when  to  buy, 


Okra,  general  suggestions,  107;  har- 
vesting, 271;  putting  in,  102 

Old  lawn,  renewing,  205 

Onions,  fall  sowing  of,  222;  for  succes- 
sion, 73;  garnishing,  green,  73;  har- 
vesting and  storing,  272;  planting 
of,  73;  sets,  73;  soil  for,  73;  varieties 
of,  26 

Overhead  irrigation,  151,  152 

Oyster-shell  scale,  114 


Painting  garden  implements,  4 

Paper  pots,  use  of,  106 

Paris  green,  139;  as  a  rose  insecticide, 

iS3 
Parsnips,  for  winter  supply,  144,  275; 

planting  of,  74;  storing  for  winter, 

273;  varieties  of,  27 
Parsley,  planting  of,  74;  varieties  of,  27 
Peaches,  varieties  of,  60 
Pears,  harvesting,  271,  272;  varieties 

of,  60 
Peas  for  succession,  146;  planting  of, 

74;  sweet,  getting  most  out  of,  80; 

varieties  of,  27 
Peonies,  best  varieties,  206;  planting, 

244;  replanting  of,  210;  starting  a 

bed,  206;  varieties  of,  245 
Peppers,  general  suggestions,  plant- 
ing, 107;  putting  in,  102;  varieties 

of,  27 
Perennial  border,  88;  border,  need  of 

drainage,  89;  border,  preparing,  90; 

garden,  making  of,  88 
Pergola,  making  a  homemade,  159 


Perpetuals,  hybrid,  78 

Petunias,  value  of,  81 

Phlox,  selection  of,  242 

Phosphoric  acid,  53 

Picking,  early,  134 

Plan,  garden,  data  for,  30;  fitting  in 
crops,  31;  following  it,  33;  for  future 
development,  2;  how  to  make,  1,2; 
importance  of,  29;  making  of,  29, 
33;  rules  covering,  32;  utility  of, 
36 

£lant  food,  available,  49;  kinds  of,  50; 
proportion  of,  52,  53 

Planting, .  first,  time  of,  69;  in  dry 
weather,  104,  142;  points  on,  82; 
rule  for,  69,  70;  spring,  71;  fall, 
207 

Plants,  care  of,  62  et  seq.,  63;  failing, 
62;  flower,  buying  of,  77,  123; 
flower,  growing  of,  76;  flower,  han- 
dling of,  76;  food  for,  63;  for  early 
use,  69;  for  the  house,  194;  from 
cuttings,  196;  fumigating  of,  67; 
hardening  off,  68,  104;  hardy,  67; 
helped  by  mulching,  149;  in  the 
house,  288;  need  of  light,  65;  nur- 
sery, handling  of,  83;  pinching  off, 
68;  potted,  47,  196;  propagating 
by  division,  41;  protection  of,  65; 
protection  of  from  late  frosts,  83, 
104;  shading  of,  105;  shifting  of, 
67;  spraying  of,  67;  strawberry, 
1 80;  taking  from  garden,  195; 
tender,  starting  in  paper  pots,  106; 
transplanting  in  summer,  105 

Plow,  one  horse  swivel,  8 

Plowing,  61;  with  wheel  hoe,  16 

Plums,  varieties  of,  60 

Pole  beans,  starting  of  in  paper  pots, 
106 

Poppies,  good  points  of,  80 

Potash,  53;  desirability  of,  132 

Potato  beetle,  137 

Potatoes  for  winter  supply,  144; 
harvesting  and  storing,  272 

Pots,  paper,  67 


348 


INDEX 


Potted  plants,  soil  for,  318,  319 
Potting,  midsummer,  198 
Preparations  for  fall  frosts,  223;  for 

work  under  glass,  225 
Propagating  bushes  and  shrubs,  321; 

small  fruits,  100 

Protectors,  early  plants,  n;  plant,  84 
Pruning,  325-327;  roses,  77 
Pump,  bucket,  as  a  sprayer,  10 
Pumpkins  for  the  winter  supply,  143; 

winter  storing,  270 
Putty,  liquid,  for  glazing,  5 

R 

Radishes  for  succession,  147;  growing 
under  glass,  280;  planting  of,  74; 
storing  for  winter,  273;  varieties  of, 
27 

Rake,  correct  use  of,  82 

Rakes,  hoe  blade  attachment  for,  8; 
garden,  different  types,  12 

Rambler  roses,  dwarf,  126 

Rape,  191 

Raspberries,  distances  apart,  57;  va- 
rieties of,  58 

Refuse,  221 

Returns,  from  gardening,  how  deter- 
mined, 12 

Rhubarb  bed,  care  of,  120;  for  winter 
use,  313 

Roads,  construction  of,  98 

Roguing,  of  plants,  22 

Roller,  on  lawn,  100 

Roots,  forcing,  298;  indoor  forcing, 
312,  313;  tree,  in  flower  beds,  76,  77 

Roots,  workers,  insects  attacking,  136 

Rose  beetle,  137,  153;  enemies,  fight- 
ing, 153,  iS4;  garden,  77;  garden, 
first  work  in,  77;  garden,  when  and 
how  to  prepare,  299;  slug,  154 

Roses,  bed  for,  79;  buying  of,  78;  dis- 
eases, 155;  hybrid  perpetuals,  78; 
large  blooms,  78;  potted,  setting  out 
of,  125,  126,  127;  preparation  of 
hardwood  cuttings  of,  268;  protec- 
tion, 304;  pruning  of,  77,  78;  rooting 


hardwood  cuttings,  269;  setting  out, 

78,  79;  summer  mulching  of,  156; 

summer  pruning  of,  156;  varieties 

of,  125 
Rows,   straight,   importance   of,    16; 

making,  16;  marking  out,  70 
Rubber  plants,  new,  making,  197 
Rust,  115 
Rye,  as  cover  crop,  190;  soil  binder, 

191 


Salsify  for  winter  supply,  144;  plant- 
ing of,  74;  storing  for  winter,  273 

San  Jose"  scale,  1 14 

Sash,  double  light,  257;  for  hotbeds 
and  cold  frames,  257;  glazing,  5 

Scale,  varieties  of,  323,  324,  325 

Scillas,  268 

Sea  kale,  care  of,  121 

Seed  bed,  for  flowers,  76;  for  hardy 
perennials,  167;  preparation  of, 
70;  buying,  points  about,  22;  cover- 
ing of,  40;  depth  of  planting, 
70;  drill,  10;  drill,  combination, 
cost  of,  13;  drill,  seed-sowing  with, 
1 6,  17;  drill,  utility  and  life  of,  13; 
flower,  starting  of,  75;  hand  plant- 
ing of,  71;  hastening  germination, 
83;  longevity,  3;  ordering,  difficul- 
ties of,  21 ;  sowing  for  winter  supply, 
175;  sowing,  getting  a  good  stand, 
176;  sowing  in  dry  weather,  142; 
sowing,  with  wheel  hoe,  16,  17; 
starting  of,  36-39;  tender,  starting, 
106;  testing,  3,  4 

Seeding,  lawn,  99 

Seedlings,  handling  and  transplanting, 
40-42 

Selection,  by  seedsmen,  22 

Shrubs,  208,  209;  for  beds  and  borders, 
209;  hardy,  235;  planting  of,  207, 
237,  238,  239;  time  to  plant,  236; 
use  of,  208;  winter  pruning  of,  327, 
328 

Side-dressing,  130 


INDEX 


349 


Slopes,  steep,  care  of,  98 

Snapping  test,  337 

Snowdrops,  234,  268 

Sodding  steep  slopes,  98 

Soil,  enriching  of,  50;  for  lawn,  201; 
for  seedlings,  39;  for  vegetable  and 
flower  seedlings,  34,  35;  heavy,  61; 
materials  for  enriching,  51;  need 
of  moisture  in,  50;  sandy,  61;  when 
to  work,  6 1 

Soy  beans,  cover  crop,  190 

Spade,  correct  use  of,  82 

Spanish  iris,  267 

Spinach,  varieties  of,  27 

Spray,  powder  or  dust,  n 

Sprayer,  compressed  air,  care  of,  5; 
hand,  different  types,  10;  need  of  a 
good,  138 

Spraying,  general  discussion,  108, 109; 
late,  223;  machine,  buying,  112; 
points  on,  112;  time,  112 

Sprays  necessary,  109 

Sprinklers  for  irrigating,  151 

Squash  borer,  137;  bug,  137;  for  winter 
supply,  144;  varieties  of,  28;  putting 
in,  102;  winter  storing,  270 

Squills,  234 

Storing  of  vegetables,  preparation  of 
place  for,  275 

Strawberries,  bed,  making,  main- 
taining, 118;  bed,  new,  care  of,  118, 
178;  bed,  new,  location  of,  180;  bed, 
plants  for,  91;  bed,  renewing  old, 
179;  bed,  spring  work  with,  118; 
bed,  start  of,  91;  distances  apart,  57; 
fall  fruiting,  118,  120;  fall  fruiting, 
varieties  of,  182;  hill  system  of,  182; 
matted  row,  181;  mulching,  182; 
plants,  1 80;  plants  for  new  bed,  181; 
soil  for,  57, 177;  summer  care  of,  177; 
up  to  frost,  92;  varieties  of,  58, 92 

Succession  crops,  145;  plantings,  mak- 
ing, 102 

Sucking  insects,  135 

Summer  house,  constructing  simple, 
161 


Summer  mulching  for  roses,  156;  prun- 
ing of  roses,  156;  work,  170 

Sun  dial,  164 

Supports,  for  tomatoes  and  beans,  u; 
making  of,  12;  plant,  87 

Sweet  corn  for  succession,  146;  corn, 
saving  for  use  after  frost,  271;  peas, 
time  of  planting,  75;  potatoes,  har- 
vesting, 271 


Tall  plants,  protection,  306,  307 

Tankage,  53 

Teas,  hybrid,  78;  varieties  of,  126 

Tender  crops,  putting  in,  102;  start- 
ing, 106 

Tent  caterpillar,  113 

Thinning  out,  133 

Tobacco  dust,  139 

Tomatoes,  care  of,  171;  for  succession, 
147;  general  suggestions  on  plant- 
ing, etc.,  107;  growing  under  glass, 
279;  putting  in,  102;  saving  for  use 
after  frost,  271;  supports,  171;  va- 
rieties of,  28 

Tools,  buying  of,  12;  care  of,  4;  chest, 
advantages  of,  12;  depreciation  of, 
6,  7;  garden,  3;  garden,  small,  20; 
keeping  sharp,  86;  necessity  for 
good  equipment,  6;  outfit,  garden, 
19;  sharpening,  4;  small,  19;  small, 
points  about,  20;  special,  for  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  work,  7 

Top-dressing,  130 

Trained  fruit,  297 

Training  climbing  roses,  157 

Transplanting,  67;  celery  plants,  184; 
hardy  perennial  plants,  168;  in 
summer,  105;  summer,  174;  vege- 
tables in  dry  weather,  142 

Trees,  cavities  in,  309;  how  to  repair 
old  wounds  and  splits,  309, 310, 311; 
protection  of,  312 

Trellises,  grape  arbor,  preparing  of, 
297;  preservation  of,  162;  simple, 
163 


350 


INDEX 


Tulips,  early  and  late,  229 
Turnips,  for  winter  supply,  145;  plant- 
ing of,  74;  varieties  of,  28 


Varieties  of  geraniums,  124;  of  cane 
fruits,  58,  59;  of  tree  fruits,  60;  of 
vegetables,  23-28 

Vegetables,  for  late  use,  176;  for  the 
fall  garden,  145;  for  the  winter 
supply,  different  kinds  of,  141,  143, 
144,  145,  175;  harvesting  and  stor- 
ing, 270;  kinds  and  varieties  for 
growing  under  glass,  277;  picking  of, 
134;  storing  for  winter,  295;  ventila- 
tion of  stored,  296 

Verbenas,  81 

Vetch,  as  cover  crop,  190 

Vine  crops,  preparing,  putting  in  right, 
115;  parting  of,  106;  summer  care 
of,  172 

Vines  for  pergolas  and  trellises,  163; 
making  grow,  163 

W 

Walks,  different  kinds  of,  97,  99;  good, 
97;  making  of,  97 


Water,  various  ways  of  applying, 
150 

Watering,  best  time  for,  151;  forms  of, 
150;  when  transplanting,  67 

Watermelons,  28 

Weeders,  hand,  19 

Weeding,  fall,  221;  first,  132;  by  hand, 
18 

Weeds,  destruction  of,  17;  growth  of, 
19;  keeping  out  of  lawns,  100;  re- 
moving, 174 

Wheel  hoe,  in  cultivation,  17 

White  fly,  137 

Whips,  299 

Wild  sorrel,  54 

Window  conservatory,  317,  318;  gar- 
den, air,  light  and  temperature 
necessary,  316,  317 

Winter  gardens,  288;  preparation 
for,  302-307;  pruning,  325-328; 
salads,  313;  shrubs,  334,  335; 
spraying,  322-325;  supply,  crops 
for,  putting  in,  103;  supply  of 
vegetables,  141;  window  garden, 
3i5,32i 

Wire,  for  trellises,  etc.,  297 

Wood  ashes,  64 


Printed  in  the  United  State*  of  America 


following  pages  contain  advertisements  of  a  few 
of  the  Macmillan  books  on  kindred  subjects. 


MY  GROWING  GARDEN 

BY  J.  HORACE  McFARLAND 

Color  illustrations,  i2mo,  $2.25 

A  book  filled  with  suggestions  and  practical  advice.  The 
history  follows  through  the  cycle  of  the  year,  devoting  a  chapter 
to  each  month's  changes  in  the  growing  garden.  Remarkable 
photographic  illustrations  by  the  author. 

"One  of  the  most  delightful  garden  books  of  the  year  .  .  . 
altogether  unique.  The  garden  is  truly  a  home  garden,  an 
intimate  part  of  the  author's  life." — Countryside  Magazine. 

"Tells  in  interesting  fashion  the  author's  own  experiences 
in  making  over  an  old  house  and  vineyard  into  a  comfortable 
home  and  a  beautiful  garden.  ...  Is  a  reflex  of  the  author's 
love  for  flowers  and  plants.  ...  Is  crammed  full  of  original 
suggestions  for  garden-lovers.  .  .  .  Every  friend  of  the  flower 
and  plant  and  the  luxuriant  garden — front  and  back — will 
enjoy  this  interesting  story." — The  Daily  Telegraph  (Harrisburg). 


THE   MACMILLAN    COMPANY 

Publishers         64-66  Fifth  Avenue         New  York 


AN    IMPORTANT   NEW    BOOK 

PRINCIPLES 
OF  FLORICULTURE 

By  EDWARD  A.  WHITE 

Professor  of  Floriculture  in  the  New  York  State  College  of  Agriculture 
at  Cornell  University 

Illustrated,   Cloth,  12mo>  $1.75 

The  flower-growing  business  has  become  highly  specialized. 
Science  has,  therefore,  come  to  be  an  important  factor  in 
flower  production,  and  there  has  arisen  a  demand  for  scien- 
tific information  regarding  all  lines  of  floriculture.  The  pur- 
pose of  the  author  of  this  book  has  been  to  consider  the 
principles  which  underlie  the  successful  culture  of  ornamental 
plants,  and  to  present  these  in  such  a  manner  that  the  book 
may  be  useful  in  the  class-room.  It  is  believed  that  it  will 
also  be  of  service  in  a  practical  way  to  practical  men.  Among 
the  topics  discussed  are:  The  importance  of  the  plant  and 
flower-growing  industry;  principles  and  methods  of  con- 
structing and  heating  glasshouses;  factors  which  influence 
healthy  plant  growth;  business  principles  in  marketing 
flowers;  glasshouse  insects  and  their  extermination;  diseases 
of  plants  and  their  remedies,  and  the  factors  which  underlie 
successful  culture  of  standard  florists'  crops. 


THE   MACMILLAN    COMPANY 

Publishers         64-66  Fifth  Avenue         New  York 


OLD  TIME  GARDENS 

BY  ALICE  MORSE  EARLE 

Cloth  8°,  III,  $2.50 

This  is  "a  book  of  the  sweet  o'  the  year."  Mrs. 
Earle  writes  delightfully  of  Colonial  Gardens,  Old 
Flower  Favorites,  Gardens  of  the  Poets,  Plant  Names, 
Sundials,  Garden  Furnishings,  Flowers  of  Mystery  and 
other  phases  of  garden-lovers'  lore.  The  book  is  pro- 
fusely illustrated  with  photographs  of  old  gardens  and 
their  furnishings.  The  author's  pages  are  rich  in 
anecdote  and  apt  quotation,  and  reconstruct  the  at- 
mosphere, the  environment  of  gardens,  and  the  charm 
of  growing  things.  It  is  a  book  for  everyone  who  has, 
or  hopes  to  have,  a  garden. 

"No  more  suggestive  book  on  gardening  can  be 
found." — The  Independent. 


THE   MACMILLAN    COMPANY 

Publishers         64-66  Fifth  Avenue         New  York 


THE  FARM  AND  GARDEN 
RULE  BOOK 

BY  L.  H.  BAILEY 

Price,  $2.00 

A  handbook  of  ready  rules  and  reference,  with  recipes,  pre- 
cepts, formulas,  and  tabular  information  for  the  use  of  the 
farmer  and  gardener. 

This  work  is  arranged  for  ready  reference,  on  the  cyclopedia 
plan.  It  is  packed  from  cover  to  cover  with  condensed  infor- 
mation on  almost  every  subject  connected  with  agriculture 
and  horticulture.  An  admirably  arranged  index  allows  instant 
reference  to  any  subject  of  interest. 

MANUAL  OF  GARDENING 

BY  L.  H.  BAILEY 

New  edition.    Illustrated,  $2.00 

A  practical  guide  to  the  making  of  home-grounds  and  the 
growing  of  flowers,  fruit  and  vegetables  for  home  use.  It  is 
written  from  the  point  of  view  of  the  homemaker  whose  interest 
in  gardening  is  hampered  by  lack  of  explicit  directions  and 
experienced  advice.  There  are  chapters  on  the  general  plan, 
the  handling  of  the  land,  and  on  the  care  of  ornamental  fruit 
and  vegetable  plants. 


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Publishers         64-66  Fifth  Avenue         New  York 


THE 

STANDARD  CYCLOPEDIA 
OF  HORTICULTURE 

EDITED  BY  L.  H.  BAILEY 

With  the  assistance  of  over  500  collaborators. 

New  edition,  entirely  rewritten  and  enlarged,  with 
many  new  features;  with  24  plates  in  color,  96  full-page 
half-tones  and  over  4,000  text  illustrations.  Six  vol- 
umes. Sold  only  in  sets  by  subscription. 

$6.00  per  volume. 
Set  cloth  $36.00.  Set  half-morocco  $60.00. 

"The  work  is  a  monument  to  Professor  Bailey,  and  an  abso- 
lute necessity  for  every  horticulturist  who  is  interested  in  his 
profession." — The  National  Nurseryman. 

"It  is  unique  as  a  book  of  reference  and  study  and  should 
have  a  place  on  the  book-shelf  of  every  gardener  and  florist, 
for  it  is  very  live  literature  for  anyone  engaged  in  any  depart- 
ment of  the  horticultural  field." — Horticulture. 

"It  will  be  an  indispensable  work  of  reference  to  everyone 
who  is  interested  in  the  land  and  its  products,  whether  com- 
mercially, professionally,  as  a  student  or  as  an  amateur." 

— The  Boston  Transcript. 


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Publishers         64-66  Fifth  Avenue         New  York 


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